Building the Pocher 1/8 Lotus 72D, Emerson Fittipaldi 1972

[cmatthewbacon]

9 minutes ago, Griph said:

Found that out after breaking one of the DC-50 parallel struts to the rear wheel assemblies!

Oh, you did that too? I think they can go on a LOT later in the build. You can fit the H plate with them on pretty much as you do the rear wheel carriers, I reckon. Having them flapping in the breeze for so long under that heavy engine assembly is asking for trouble…

best,

M.

[Griph]

1 minute ago, cmatthewbacon said:

Oh, you did that too? I think they can go on a LOT later in the build. You can fit the H plate with them on pretty much as you do the rear wheel carriers, I reckon. Having them flapping in the breeze for so long under that heavy engine assembly is asking for trouble…

best,

M.

I did - and yes they absolutely could have been fitted much later! Unfortunately I followed the instructions! 😂. Providence had been tested so many times and I had been careful … until I wasnt! Tried gluing it, but no good and got a replacement! 

[Bosco]

Thanks everyone for letting me know about the frame assembly problem with the lower wishbones. What I did was lean on my machining experience to somewhat alleviate the problem. I am also building the IXO Porsche 917. They give you all kinds of extra screws in case you drop one and it goes into never never land never to be seen again. I found some extra IXO screws that were a bit longer and only 0.6mm larger in diameter than the A screws used to hold the lower wishbone in place. I just drilled and tapped everything to accommodate the larger screws. Everything bolted together nicely and I was able to draw the lower frame assembly a bit closer together. There is still a small gap but not as large as what I showed in the picture. I figure only people like you on this site would notice it.

Bosco

[Bosco]

17 hours ago, Griph said:

I did - and yes they absolutely could have been fitted much later! Unfortunately I followed the instructions! 😂. Providence had been tested so many times and I had been careful … until I wasnt! Tried gluing it, but no good and got a replacement! 

I noticed that also about the DC-50 struts. For anyone starting their build, if you decide to assemble the H part with the DC-50 struts hanging out there, use a small rubber band to hold them all upright. A rubber band under the struts on one side, going over the transmission and over to the bottom of the struts on the other side should keep them out of the way and not flopping around with the potential for breaking. AND YES, I learned this the hard way from previous model builds.

Bosco

[cmatthewbacon]

That's good to hear! Glad it worked out... For folks following along, just be aware that the casting metal is hard, and more brittle than you might expect if you are used to aluminium, or tin-lead white metal castings. Tread carefully. And now back to our scheduled programming:

 

 

 

 

The  decals, glass and moulded bezels worked very well... small amounts of Formula 560 canopy Glue are holding them together and in place. In my references, the switches are mostly silver metal, so I painted them, and added an extra one in the top left where there is a hole in the moulded dash, made from fuse wire and aluminium tubing for the base. The black button at the lower left has a chrome base, so that was painted with Molotow chrome ink. For some reason you get a decal dash ID plate as well as the tampo-printed version on the part; I used it because it was a bit brighter and clearer than the printing. References differ in the orientation of the rev counter -- in some of the cars it's rotated 60 degrees or so anti-clockwise to make sure the high rev area and redline are easily visible through the steering wheel, in others it sits as it is here with 10K at the 12 o'clock position.

 

Now to fix this into the cockpit and finish those pesky cables...

best,

M.

[Griph]

12 minutes ago, cmatthewbacon said:

That's good to hear! Glad it worked out... For folks following along, just be aware that the casting metal is hard, and more brittle than you might expect if you are used to aluminium, or tin-lead white metal castings. Tread carefully. And now back to our scheduled programming:

 

 

 

 

The  decals, glass and moulded bezels worked very well... small amounts of Formula 560 canopy Glue are holding them together and in place. In my references, the switches are mostly silver metal, so I painted them, and added an extra one in the top left where there is a hole in the moulded dash, made from fuse wire and aluminium tubing for the base. The black button at the lower left has a chrome base, so that was painted with Molotow chrome ink. For some reason you get a decal dash ID plate as well as the tampo-printed version on the part; I used it because it was a bit brighter and clearer than the printing. References differ in the orientation of the rev counter -- in some of the cars it's rotated 60 degrees or so anti-clockwise to make sure the high rev area and redline are easily visible through the steering wheel, in others it sits as it is here with 10K at the 12 o'clock position.

 

Now to fix this into the cockpit and finish those pesky cables...

best,

M.

Great job Matt.  I painted my switches too, but I chickened out of going onto the switch retaining nuts, as I didnt want to eff it up!  My eyesight isnt brilliant!

[Griph]

22 minutes ago, Bosco said:

I noticed that also about the DC-50 struts. For anyone starting their build, if you decide to assemble the H part with the DC-50 struts hanging out there, use a small rubber band to hold them all upright. A rubber band under the struts on one side, going over the transmission and over to the bottom of the struts on the other side should keep them out of the way and not flopping around with the potential for breaking. AND YES, I learned this the hard way from previous model builds.

Bosco

Great advice Bosco, thanks, unfortunately for me about a month too late! Hopefully it will help others who come later.  There should be a pinned message on page one with all the great advice on it!

[cmatthewbacon]

 

That's the conduit done at both ends. The dash was glued in place earlier this afternoon with Araldite "5-minute Metal" epoxy -- I wanted to make sure it was firmly held while I manipulated the wiring. I could just see it popping off while I bent the guitar string into place. I put some thin wire into the two TU-1 tubes from the smaller gauges so I could make them go where I wanted and stay there. There's enough room behind the conduit for quite a lot of wires. They don't go anywhere at the back except out of sight...

 

 

It took a little bit of adjustment to the way they go around the end of the  dash to make sure the coaming fitted, but it now does.

 

 

Like this.

 

 

Cockpit looks convincing, I think, apart from the overscale dust, may be...

 

 

And the iPhone can get right down inside for a driver's-eye view...

 

best,

M.

 

 

[Schummie]

On 07/03/2023 at 13:41, Bosco said:

Hello, everyone. I'm "Bosco" and introducing myself. I've been modeling for over 70 years. I've finished the DeAgostini/Model Space Senna McLaren, Ford GT40, the LaFerrari. I currently have about 4 issues left to go on the IXO Collections Porsche 917. I currently do only 1/8 kits as my eyesight and hands are getting the best of me. I just got my 72 here about 2 weeks ago. And I can see this is going to be a challenge. Thanks to everyone who is ahead of me on building and finding mistakes and publishing them. I do think I'll need them.

Also I would like to let everyone know that you can save a lot of $$$$ if you plan on getting a display case for your Lotus 72. I was looking at the Pocher site for a case and they want 340 pounds. Go to IXO Collections. They have a display case for 99 pounds with free delivery. I have 2 now and will order one for the Lotus. They are very well made with a nice base. Here is the link:

https://www.ixocollections.com/en/accessories/64-display-case-porsche-917-kh.html

Thank you for the tip. The display is on it’s way.

Does is need any glue to connect the 5 panels?

Or is it a sort of interlocking system. There is no manual on their website, but I assume you have to put this size of display together yourself.

Do you have a detail picture, or is it very simple.
 

[Schummie]

Very, very impressive that dash. And yes, I will also go the extra mile to try and get my dash near this job.

 

And here my contribution with my efforts from last week in pictures.

 

The after market hose clamps.

 

 

Some very small parts too bend. Here my experience with 1/43 kits comes in handy.

 

 

 

 

 

Not something to do all on one evening. 1 down, 4 to go. 

 

 

 

 

The marriage of the polished tub with the body.

 

 

 

 

The radiators which where painted from black to aluminium with some washes.

 

 

 

 

 

And the front suspension in place.

 

 

 

Well being truthfull to my real metal fetish I dug up some after market metal parts.

 

 

 

 

I did use another type belt. It's a bit glossy on this picture caused by the flash. In real vieuw i'm happy with the result and scale appearance.

 

 

 

 

For the connection with the body I used the metal parts included in the kit.

 

 

 

Gear linkage also lost its paint. There are reference pictures with a black knob, and also a lot with a metal knob.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I modified the painted aluminium band on de fire extinguisher with aluminium tape which was sanded with 3200 grane to make the gloss a bit less.

To show the difference only one band was done here.  A little easy to do and cheap upgrade.

 

 

 

 

Now on with al the other hose clamps and the dashboard. Till next time.

 

 

Edited April 7 by Schummie

[cmatthewbacon]

Excellent work all round! Where did you find the hose clamp (“jubilee clip”) etch hardware?

best,

M.

[Schummie]

21 minutes ago, cmatthewbacon said:

Excellent work all round! Where did you find the hose clamp (“jubilee clip”) etch hardware?

best,

M.

Normally autograph models in Germany stock some very nice ones. But they’re out of stock. After a long search I found these on www.bestbalsakits.com in Belgium.

I must say, a bit expensive for 50 Euro’s. But you get 155 clamps in all sorts and sizes, enough for a lot of kits.

[schumi15]

On 03/04/2023 at 20:51, Bosco said:

A general question about air brushing parts. In the past, Testors had something called Model Master Buffing Metalizer. They have discontinued manufacturing it. Here is a picture of what I'm talking about.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/185806434991?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=185806434991&targetid=4581183927179143&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=418233787&mkgroupid=1241348861725295&rlsatarget=pla-4581183927179143&abcId=9300542&merchantid=51291&msclkid=17456df44a0d1624bd5609df55006018

 

It's something I thought was the best way to make plastic look like metal. They had all kinds of colors. Does anyone know of a substitute that is comparable? Gads I miss that stuff.

Bosco

maybe you give these ones a try https://www.mr-hobby.com/en/product1/category_7/137.html. I`ve get good results

 

[Bosco]

17 hours ago, Schummie said:

Thank you for the tip. The display is on it’s way.

Does is need any glue to connect the 5 panels?

Or is it a sort of interlocking system. There is no manual on their website, but I assume you have to put this size of display together yourself.

Do you have a detail picture, or is it very simple.
 

It really is very simple to put together. The channels that are cut into the plexiglass are VERY precise. When I got mine, I tried to assemble it with the protective paper on the plexiglass and it wouldn't fit together. Then I took off the paper and it fit SO good, you don't need glue or anything. Just fit the 4 sides together first and the top last. 

Bosco

[cmatthewbacon]

Just starting to be able to tell what pieces are left... does anyone know where Part M-21 goes? It's a fairly standard looking filler cap/cover, in black, sort of octagonal looking. It might be a duplicate of A-13, which is one of the gold-coloured tops for the three reservoirs on stalks in front of the pedals on the front subframe.

best,

M.

[Dinky]

Its a duplicate and you dont need it. 

[cmatthewbacon]

Thanks, @Dinky. Also, does the lower/forward end of the dashboard brace DC-19 have any positive location point, or do I just glue it up and under the joint of the body sides?

 

best,

M.

[Dinky]

Welcome!
I could not find a prepared or designated spot so I glued mine in the best position I could find

[Griph]

4 minutes ago, cmatthewbacon said:

Thanks, @Dinky. Also, does the lower/forward end of the dashboard brace DC-19 have any positive location point, or do I just glue it up and under the joint of the body sides?

 

best,

M.

There isn’t a positive fixing point, you have to glue it to the underside of the bodywork!  

[cmatthewbacon]

As far as I can see, F-3 is a duplicate as well, matching the line joining the rear brake callipers…

best,

M.

[Dinky]

Yes that is correct indeed

[cmatthewbacon]

I've been having a lovely multigenerational family Easter weekend, so not that much progress the last few days. However, steadily onward...

 

 

The most significant feature of the front nosecone framework on the original cars is the extinguisher bottle. Later ones had batteries and additional hydraulics in the space, but it's pretty empty in 1972. OOB it this two-part, deep orange red assembly. A bit of tidying up is in order. The bottle also fits firmly to the frame and has a pin locating it to the underbody, which is great, if you don't want to be able to remove the nosecone as a separate assembly. I do, however, so pin gone and socket filled, and seams tidied up.

 

 

The bottle is actually near-as-darnit Tamiya TS-11 Maroon and has some stencilled writing on the side. This will be distressed somewhat...

 

 

Close enough for me, I reckon....

 

 

Before you do anything else, use an A screw to tap the hole going INTO each side frame (DC-51 and -52) at the bottom, and take the screw out again. You will benefit from this later.

 

Assembling the frame provoked some head-scratching. First, it definitely won't go with both hoses attached to the extinguisher bottle. The W brace at the bottom has to locate at three places -- a tab near the subframe, a pin in the sideframe in the middle, and a hole in the back of the transverse frame holding the extinguisher. I figured it could all swing around the upper mount on the subframe. so I tacked the base in place with the sideframe swung outward, and fitted the front extinguisher mount, and then set it all solid with superglue.

 

 

Like this.... Then I could swing the assembled parts and the right-hand frame closed and join them permanently.

 

 

Like this. Now, although it's indicated as a glue joint on the instructions, having pre-tapped the holes, you can use an A screw forwards through the lower part of the front subframe on each side to lock the frame in pace very solidly.

 

 

Now, where does this extinguisher bottle extinguish fires? Probably not in the nose cone or front aero wings.

 

 

First, we need to get the hydraulic reservoirs in place. These seem fairly easy in the instructions, but they are a pain to wiggle into position. If you are going to screw the nosecone floor (B2-1) in place, you need to do it before fixing the reservoirs. I have a different plan, key elements of which are on their way from China even as we speak. The front brake line (J1) does locate into the side of the rightmost reservoir quite neatly.

 

 

 

Some spare tube serves to plumb the extinguisher in a bit more accurately. A bit more tidying and weathering needed on the reservoirs, but Tamiya Smoke is giving some sense of translucent plastic on the lids instead of yellow paint.

 

best,

M.

 

 

 

 

[Jo NZ]

With two outputs from the extinguisher bottle, one will go to the cockpit (between the drivers legs on the bottom of the dash? Always a favourite place!) and the other one to the engine bay.

[nick]

20 minutes ago, Jo NZ said:

With two outputs from the extinguisher bottle, one will go to the cockpit (between the drivers legs on the bottom of the dash? Always a favourite place!) and the other one to the engine bay.

In my ‘yoof’ I used to fit the instrument panels in executive jets - amongst other things.
 

The overhead fire warning/APU panel was a long thin thing with several switches with safety covers for firing  the various extinguishers manually  and strange little lamps with odd three-legged domed shields to protect them. My favourite thing about them was that they were called ‘bottle gone indicators’.

As it coincided with a popular figure of speech at the time, it’s always stayed with me.
I used to think some people should maybe have been fitted with them.
 

That’s my only fire extinguisher story, I’ll  get me coat. 

[cmatthewbacon]

Turning the corner into the finishing straight now, I reckon, the checkered flag visible in the distance...

 

 

 

Nose cone completed, and the wheels tried on for size.

 

 

 

 

And it does go on and clip in place, especially if helped along a bit by lifting the front up with a couple of fingers under the extreme nose just to flex it slightly and snug the pins under the silver "fasteners" at the back of the upper nose panel into their sockets.

 

Next the rear wing. I think I've figured out how to do it. Fences and bracing bars mounted to the plastic underside, slide it over the central mounting and flex it down to to slip the central hinge pin in place, fit the metal top surface, adjust the bracing bars to length and screw in place on the tail at their lower ends, and finally add the end plates. We'll see how that works tomorrow...

 

best,

M.