Building the Pocher 1/8 Lotus 72D, Emerson Fittipaldi 1972

[cmatthewbacon]

@frankgee DC-43 is a rigid rod (though the length is adjustable). The bit that doesn't move that should is the attachment point at the lower end (M-17 and M-18). They are actually levers attached to the torsion bar (that isn't) inside the longitudinal tubes that run under the brakes and out to the tail (A-16, fitted in stage 4 on page 11). If the torsion bars were in place and functional, the levers could rotate and the lower end of DC-43 (and hence the top end) could move up and out, allowing the triangulated DC-35 and DC-36 to pivot around their fixed inboard anchor and lift the outer end as the wheel carrier moves up. You certainly couldn't make functional torsion bars from the diecast metal... it's too hard and brittle. I think they just decided that an in-scale working torsion bar was an engineering challenge too far, and since a mobile suspension depends on a functional torsion bar, they fixed the whole thing in place in the "at rest" position...

best,

M.

[Griph]

11 minutes ago, cmatthewbacon said:

@frankgee DC-43 is a rigid rod (though the length is adjustable). The bit that doesn't move that should is the attachment point at the lower end (M-17 and M-18). They are actually levers attached to the torsion bar (that isn't) inside the longitudinal tubes that run under the brakes and out to the tail (A-16, fitted in stage 4 on page 11). If the torsion bars were in place and functional, the levers could rotate and the lower end of DC-43 (and hence the top end) could move up and out, allowing the triangulated DC-35 and DC-36 to pivot around their fixed inboard anchor and lift the outer end as the wheel carrier moves up. You certainly couldn't make functional torsion bars from the diecast metal... it's too hard and brittle. I think they just decided that an in-scale working torsion bar was an engineering challenge too far, and since a mobile suspension depends on a functional torsion bar, they fixed the whole thing in place in the "at rest" position...

best,

M.

Thanks Matt, a really good explanation of the compromise on the Pocher model. Scaling inevitably brings its limitations on functionality.  If the 72 had had conventional sprung suspension as other Pocher (or most other cars modelled), it would have been straightforward to have some functionality.  I know that when they were doing the first preproduction builds they found that making any part of the suspension in plastic resulted in a failure due to breakages of the very slim struts.

[frankgee]

3 hours ago, cmatthewbacon said:

@frankgee DC-43 is a rigid rod (though the length is adjustable). The bit that doesn't move that should is the attachment point at the lower end (M-17 and M-18). They are actually levers attached to the torsion bar (that isn't) inside the longitudinal tubes that run under the brakes and out to the tail (A-16, fitted in stage 4 on page 11). If the torsion bars were in place and functional, the levers could rotate and the lower end of DC-43 (and hence the top end) could move up and out, allowing the triangulated DC-35 and DC-36 to pivot around their fixed inboard anchor and lift the outer end as the wheel carrier moves up. You certainly couldn't make functional torsion bars from the diecast metal... it's too hard and brittle. I think they just decided that an in-scale working torsion bar was an engineering challenge too far, and since a mobile suspension depends on a functional torsion bar, they fixed the whole thing in place in the "at rest" position...

best,

M.

 

Thanks Matt. I I'll have to read thru that a couple of times to completely understand it, but I think you've convinced me that a fixed suspension will have to do.

[cmatthewbacon]

41 minutes ago, frankgee said:

 

Thanks Matt. I I'll have to read thru that a couple of times to completely understand it, but I think you've convinced me that a fixed suspension will have to do.

No worries! I have the benefit of the excellent Haynes "Owners Manual" and a really detailed photo walkaround from Komokai in Japan. Difficult as this baby is from time to time, the build process gives a really great insight into how the real thing works...

best,

M.

[cmatthewbacon]

If you were going to request some ribbon for the belts, don't! It turns out that "just under 6mm measured" versus "1/4 inch (6mm) grosgrain" is enough to mean that the ribbon I've bought doesn't fit the metal-etched hardware Pocher supplies.  And it's blinkin' hard to find 5mm ribbon. So I have decided to progress matters with the rest of the build while I wait for Pocher spare parts to come up with the goods. I think the belts can be added a lot later than the instructions would have... My daughter's Guide pack will benefit from 40m of blue ribbon for crafty purposes...

 

Back to work:

 

Seat base fits well. You can "distress" the extinguisher as little or as much as you want. That red paint looks to have taken a battering from drivers getting in and out.

 

 

 

The filler cap on the left wing should be steel in the middle as opposed to overall silver. I also washed it with Citadel "Nuln Oil" for a bit of contrast and depth as well. The gear shift fits well, though I'd recommend getting the back end of the housing in place first and working forwards. The rear end of the control rod will need to locate into the shifter link on the engine (H-16 on page 17) when the cockpit and engine come together.

 

 

The central screw K is a pain, and will take some determined torquing to get it to tighten. I'm not sure the screws to attach the shoulder (DCB-3 and DCB-4) and waist brackets (J-8 and J-9) to the plate (DCA-19) plate are right in the instructions. The shoulders work better with shorter screw G's, and the waist (which are plastic) work better with B screws, which are meant to go into plastic parts.

 

 

The two radiator hoses (J-12 and J-13) are glued in place with Gorilla contact adhesive. These are a worst-case scenario for superglue... they have to socket into the bottom of the radiators on the back of the main "pod" and will no doubt have to flex a bit and have some play to mate successfully (like most of us these days...) I'm really not sure why one has an extended tab that locks it into the right orientation, while the other has a simple pin which it can rotate around before the glue sets...

 

 

 

 

I don't think I can avoid this much longer. It's time to join the engine to the body...

 

best,

M.

 

[Schummie]

And following quit a lot of pages behind, some progress from the Netherlands.

 

Made the brake pads darker and removed some mould lines from de callipers.

 

 

Working on the front subframe.

 

 

Collecting the parts, the uprights and the front torsion bar.

 

 

Also using as less as possible the screws that come with the kit.

 

 

 

 

The break lines still a bit too shiny. Will be corrected.

 

 

 

 

Some stages of removing the paint on a part and polishing it to get the real metal look.  It's a bit of a taste thing, and depends on your experience and time. See for yourself if it's worth your while,

 

As in the kit, silver painted.

 

 

After removing the paint.

 

 

 

After polishing till grane 4000.

 

 

And the result. The part in this picture is placed wrong. The holes for the bolts must be on the front side.

 

 

 

The marriage of the engine and the gear box. Fits perfect without al the paint.

 

 

 

 

On with the plumbing, using the tips and guidance from this forum.  So the cilinders are ignited in the right sequence.

 

 

 

 

According to the manual.

 

 

And how it is now. Because of the flash from the camara, the black looks a bith strange and glossy on these pictures.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In my kit, the plate on which the fuel line goes and goes in the pump was painted on the wrong side.
You can either respray the part, or put it in as it is now. I drilled a hole in it to place the connector in.
Also a fine option I think.

 

 

 

 

I personally am helped a lot with al the pictures in this forum.  So my build goes smoothly thanks to that.

Thank you all for your contributions.
 

[brady]

Try here for 3mm & 5mm ribbon https://www.etsy.com/listing/1363831757/10-yards-5mm020-grosgrain-ribbon-in-20

Order #13 "midnight blue" and the matching 3mm, as the 5mm is not the same shade of blue as the kit material.

[cmatthewbacon]

<Takes a deep breath> Right, well that was challenging! Before anything else, note that the lower rod that stabilises the wheel carrier should not be swinging loose as I've had it, but thread through the exhaust cluster. You'll see where in the pictures below.

 

 

To protect the fragile steering column through the next stages, I've rubber banded a couple of balsa blocks on each side of it, as you'll see in these photos. The two pillars arrowed above are the main fixing points. They take a screw K, and will need firm pre-threading. The balsa also keeps the rear deck fittings off the mat, so you can press hard while you do it. You have to get the screws in while simultaneously getting the lower stabilising rods trapped in the socket circled on the left (and not circled on the right), join the gear shift linkage from the cockpit (also in the circle) to the one on the engine, and get the two radiator hoses into their sockets. This is fun.

 

 

This is about the size of the problem. The gear shift rod goes through a hole in the plate on the engine front (circled). Just below it you can see the fixing for the angled "waist" plates fixed to the back of the bulkhead. These trap the end of the wheel carrier link rods against the U-shaped socket you can see just above the gear linkage.

 

 

Like this. You can see where the rod has to go through the exhaust cluster.

 

 

This is where the gear shift rod from the cockpit joins the one terminating at the transaxle, that runs alongside the engine.

 

 

If you were wondering where the two screw As near the "shoulder" shoulder mountings on the bulkhead go on page 32, it's here.

 

 

 

A couple more angles.

 

 

This is where all those labelled tubes start to plug in place. At the front, the connection from the electronics/coil box in the centre of the V. In the middle, an angled connector pops into a socket on top of the engine. And at the top, the upper end of a connection which goes to...

 

 

...here. I had to cut a longer bit of tube to make the connection.

 

 

The last tube goes from the turret at the right to the spigot on the front of the engine.

 

 

 

And here we are. A good view of the ever so useful balsa... I'm slightly worried that the whole thing is held by those two screws, and both ends are pretty heavy, but others have managed not to break it...

 

best,

M.

 

 

[Griph]

2 hours ago, cmatthewbacon said:

<Takes a deep breath> Right, well that was challenging! Before anything else, note that the lower rod that stabilises the wheel carrier should not be swinging loose as I've had it, but thread through the exhaust cluster. You'll see where in the pictures below.

 

 

To protect the fragile steering column through the next stages, I've rubber banded a couple of balsa blocks on each side of it, as you'll see in these photos. The two pillars arrowed above are the main fixing points. They take a screw K, and will need firm pre-threading. The balsa also keeps the rear deck fittings off the mat, so you can press hard while you do it. You have to get the screws in while simultaneously getting the lower stabilising rods trapped in the socket circled on the left (and not circled on the right), join the gear shift linkage from the cockpit (also in the circle) to the one on the engine, and get the two radiator hoses into their sockets. This is fun.

 

 

This is about the size of the problem. The gear shift rod goes through a hole in the plate on the engine front (circled). Just below it you can see the fixing for the angled "waist" plates fixed to the back of the bulkhead. These trap the end of the wheel carrier link rods against the U-shaped socket you can see just above the gear linkage.

 

 

Like this. You can see where the rod has to go through the exhaust cluster.

 

 

This is where the gear shift rod from the cockpit joins the one terminating at the transaxle, that runs alongside the engine.

 

 

If you were wondering where the two screw As near the "shoulder" shoulder mountings on the bulkhead go on page 32, it's here.

 

 

 

A couple more angles.

 

 

This is where all those labelled tubes start to plug in place. At the front, the connection from the electronics/coil box in the centre of the V. In the middle, an angled connector pops into a socket on top of the engine. And at the top, the upper end of a connection which goes to...

 

 

...here. I had to cut a longer bit of tube to make the connection.

 

 

The last tube goes from the turret at the right to the spigot on the front of the engine.

 

 

 

And here we are. A good view of the ever so useful balsa... I'm slightly worried that the whole thing is held by those two screws, and both ends are pretty heavy, but others have managed not to break it...

 

best,

M.

 

 

Yeah the lower strut passing through the exhaust was an interesting one!  Woefully explained by the instructions! Getting the front and rear joined together needed octopus tentacles.  I left out the radiator hoses and fitted them after the two parts were joined! I agree that the two screws holding the two assemblies together is a bit unnerving, they aren’t big screws either! Once the metal bottom panel DCA-1 goes on, this will introduce more fixings between the two parts, so it’s only temporary! 

[cmatthewbacon]

I can't see any reason in the instructions why that bottom panel DCA-1 can't go on now. It needs the detail (J-4) added but other than that as far as I can see everything else can be added with it in place... Anyone else (especially anyone who's finished) got a different view?

 

best,

M.

[Griph]

4 minutes ago, cmatthewbacon said:

I can't see any reason in the instructions why that bottom panel DCA-1 can't go on now. It needs the detail (J-4) added but other than that as far as I can see everything else can be added with it in place... Anyone else (especially anyone who's finished) got a different view?

 

best,

M.

I agree! It does add significant weight, but it will stiffen it all up! 

[Griph]

1 hour ago, cmatthewbacon said:

I can't see any reason in the instructions why that bottom panel DCA-1 can't go on now. It needs the detail (J-4) added but other than that as far as I can see everything else can be added with it in place... Anyone else (especially anyone who's finished) got a different view?

 

best,

M.

I’ve just fitted DCA-1 and with 3 K and 4 A screws this really stiffens the connection between the body and drive train! No more creaking. I didn’t bother fitting J-4, it will never be seen! 
 

I have modified the nose, so it is a removable one-piece nose cone, so when you unclip it, you can see all the detail that otherwise would be hidden unless you dismantled the nose.
 

I cut off the projections on the upper face of B2-1, to allow the nosecone to slide on without catching. the nose isn’t mechanically fixed, but there are two small metal studs on the underside of the rear of the upper nose DCA-4, that fit into holes in the front of parts DCA-5 and 7 body side panels. So it’s held fairly well. 
 

I have had to trim a little bit from the flat section of the front of the cab fairingD1-1, flattening the curve, so that it is short of the panel line between the nose and the rest of the body, so as to be able to lift the nose cone away from the pegs. The fairing will need to be glued in position, as per the instructions.

 

Sorry no photos, as I can’t host them on a website to give a URL! 

[Griph]

9 hours ago, Griph said:

How do you delete a message you posted previously!!!

Edited March 20, 2023 by Griph

[brady]

2 hours ago, Griph said:

How do you delete a message you posted previously!!!

Click the three dots at the upper right corner of your post, click "edit", then delete all text. You will need to insert a bit of new text though to complete the edit as it won't allow an empty post, maybe a short "post deleted" explanation.

[Griph]

7 minutes ago, brady said:

Click the three dots at the upper right corner of your post, click "edit", then delete all text. You will need to insert a bit of new text though to complete the edit as it won't allow an empty post, maybe a short "post deleted" explanation.

Thanks Brady for your help, yes you are right. Would be good to be able to delete posts though!

[Griph]

Does anyone know how to insert an image from a URL?  I have tried a link from a shared iCloud folder, and shared Dropbox folder, Google Photos and even imgbox link.  These all use HTTPS and the forum wont let me insert it, the insert box stays red!!  Do the links have to be HTTP and not HTTPS?  How do you guys share your excellent images.  I dont have my own website, so am scratching my head somewhat!  Any help would be appreciated?

[Coors54]

@Griph head for the FAQ section, loads of info on this thread 

 

I use Imgur (www.imgur.com), create an account, upload the photo's you want to use, select the link for the one you want to insert, copy, paste and it should appear but have a read of the last few pages of the above thread for the latest info.

 

Dave

[cmatthewbacon]

 

This feels a lot safer. There are 4 A screws at the back of the floor plate, two into the rear of the pod and two into the front of the engine, which lock it firmly in place and relieve the strain on the two screws under the top deck. Three bigger K screws hold the floor to the underside of the cockpit. They need a lot of work threading the holes, and I'm glad the balsa is protecting the steering rod so I can push down with some force.

 

Back to the scheduled programming:

 

 

 

Not keen on this bit. The central hose connections are the same metal as the main pipe, and the silver is way too bright -- it's a dull greyish aluminium. I can't see any evidence that the rubber hose connections are blue, either -- they are black in all the images I have. So, I've cleaned it up and sprayed it overall aluminium, and there's some detail painting to do tomorrow...

 

best,

M.

[brady]

4 hours ago, cmatthewbacon said:

 

 

 

Not keen on this bit. The central hose connections are the same metal as the main pipe, and the silver is way too bright -- it's a dull greyish aluminium. I can't see any evidence that the rubber hose connections are blue, either -- they are black in all the images I have. So, I've cleaned it up and sprayed it overall aluminium, and there's some detail painting to do tomorrow...

 

best,

M.

 

Looks like a perfect place to use some heat-shrink tubing!

[Noel Smith]

Fascinating thread with all the different inputs.

[Dinky]

Mine is also starting to take shape, but there is still plenty to do. The nose is loose, the same for the rear spoiler. The dashboard and steering wheel, etc. still have to be done as well, but it is going in the right direction.
I want to respray the inside of the upper part where the rider sits because it does not look nice. Same for the mirrors, there is a casting seam on the outside. Has anyone ever found out what color number the gold paint is?

[Griph]

 

First of all, thanks for your help getting images hosted here! Really very much appreciated.

As I said previously, I have modified B2-1 and DCA-4 so I can have this as a complete nosecone that is removable without needing to be unscrewed, allowing the inner parts to be accessed like the real car! 

I also had to modify the fairing, as the radiuses lip that sits down onto the body of the car overlapped onto DCA-4. This has been flattened off to allow it to sit only on DCA-5 and 7. 

 

[Schummie]

And some progress in pictures.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Decided to remove the paint also from the cockpit. Now like this. I hope it wors out well. If not, I can spray the thing aluminium/silver again.

 

 

 

 

 

I left the torsion bars and the connection rods both front en aft black. In the pictures I have, they are black. Ik sanded it till grane 6000 to get rid of the plastic gloss.
You can not see this good in this pictures, but in reality it came out pretty good.

 

 

 

[Griph]

Something I’ve just noticed from the Pocher 72D dashboard is the makers tag/chassis/engine # It appears to reference (specifically JPS72E/5) a 72E and not a 72D.

 

Others elsewhere have noted some inconsistencies with the model that didn’t fit the 72D, and these are explained if the model was based on a donor 72E.

 

I wonder whether for accuracy, they should have just called it the 72E?

[Bosco]

Well, gentlemen, I am getting very close to my last nerve with this model. I have over 60 years of model building, so I'm pretty sure I know what I'm doing. I have completed the DeAgostini/Model Space 1/8 Senna McLaren, 1/8 GT40 and almost finished with the IXO 1/8 Porsche 917. The assembly that has me VERY close to boxing this model up and putting it on my "Shelf of Shame" uncompleted is the attachment of the BC-1 braided steel lines. NOWHERE does it tell you the 2 lines are of DIFFERENT lengths. When you have 2 parts in a package labeled BC-1, you would think they are both the SAME length! I inadvertently attached the shorter one to part Q1-5 with CA glue. When I tried to stretch it to go into part Q1-4, guess what, it was too short! I cut it off and compared it to the other BC-1 line and it was definitely shorter. Thanks Pocher for letting me know! If I can get the longer one attached without looking like a hodge podge of glue smeared fixes, I just might try another assembly. I will let you know if Pocher has finally gotten on my last nerve.

Bosco