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Posted
2 hours ago, Schummie said:

The manual is updated again, and now in 4 parts. 

Thank you! 

Posted

I thought the tires would be very difficult because they are so hard. But after 2-3 minutes in boiled water, they slide right over the rim.

I only did my rear tires now, both had a nice and a less nice edge where they meet the rim. I put the nice side on the outside, it's worth checking before putting them on the rim because when the tires cool down you cannot get them off anymore. 

 

Direct links to the new instructions they are so much better as the previous ones. 

https://support.pocher.com/hc/en-gb/article_attachments/7843419269660/HK114_-_Lotus_72_Instruction_manual_-_Revised_-_P1.pdf

https://support.pocher.com/hc/en-gb/article_attachments/7843435882012/HK114_-_Lotus_72_Instruction_manual_-_Revised_-_P2.pdf

https://support.pocher.com/hc/en-gb/article_attachments/7843436213404/HK114_-_Lotus_72_Instruction_manual_-_Revised_-_P3.pdf

https://support.pocher.com/hc/en-gb/article_attachments/7843419916700/HK114_-_Lotus_72_Instruction_manual_-_Revised_-_P4.pdf

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Posted
19 minutes ago, Dinky said:

I thought the tires would be very difficult because they are so hard. But after 2-3 minutes in boiled water, they slide right over the rim.

I only did my rear tires now, both had a nice and a less nice edge where they meet the rim. I put the nice side on the outside, it's worth checking before putting them on the rim because when the tires cool down you cannot get them off anymore. 

Yes - have done all four using very hot water immersion.  Very easy to fit this way!  The tyres seemed to be good appearance from either side, so didn’t think.  The wear indicators on the tyres I put in a single direction to match when fitted.  No idea if this was right or not. I have started sanding the wear surfaces of the tyres to a Matt finish. Looks good (I did this with the Porsche 917KH build also - although they were treaded and not slicks).  Made the tyres look less plasticky! I was wondering about the Firestone brand on the tyres being black, as the 917 has white? Anyone got a view on this? 

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Posted
2 hours ago, Griph said:

 I was wondering about the Firestone brand on the tyres being black, as the 917 has white? Anyone got a view on this? 

From race pics it looks as if at Brands Hatch the cars raced with the raised 'Firestone' lettering unpainted.

You are right, at pretty much every other race in 1972 the raised letters were filled in with white paint. Apart from the French GP where Emmo started on Goodyears!

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Posted
1 hour ago, Malc2 said:

From race pics it looks as if at Brands Hatch the cars raced with the raised 'Firestone' lettering unpainted.

There's an article somewhere that mentioned this, maybe the one in Motorsport magazine.

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Posted

Some pictures from my effords to use as much as possible unpainted metal.

It's not every ones's taste, but it makes also clear the fantastic details in this kit and the superb casting. Some hidden under the paint.

Just to show that this is aso a possibility.

 

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Posted

I have not started mine yet, it's still in the box, I have too many other projects on the workbench at the moment. When I do get start on it, I am planning to replace visible kit screws for allen key bolts, can anyone tell me what size allen key bolts I would need to get? Thanks.

Posted
3 minutes ago, JohnPlayerSpecial said:

I have not started mine yet, it's still in the box, I have too many other projects on the workbench at the moment. When I do get start on it, I am planning to replace visible kit screws for allen key bolts, can anyone tell me what size allen key bolts I would need to get? Thanks.

Check out the manual or the first link in the PDF. There are 12 different types of screws, the majority of which are 1.5mm in different lengths, thread types and head types. 1.5mm fine thread (for metal) in 3mm, 4mm, 5mm and 7mm lengths will cover off a pretty high proportion of the total number of screws. But many are hidden, most look like black dots until you look closely, and allen key heads are not necessary any more accurate… you need micro hex bolts for that, and an equally tiny socket set…

best,

M.

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Posted
15 minutes ago, cmatthewbacon said:

Check out the manual or the first link in the PDF. There are 12 different types of screws, the majority of which are 1.5mm in different lengths, thread types and head types. 1.5mm fine thread (for metal) in 3mm, 4mm, 5mm and 7mm lengths will cover off a pretty high proportion of the total number of screws. But many are hidden, most look like black dots until you look closely, and allen key heads are not necessary any more accurate… you need micro hex bolts for that, and an equally tiny socket set…

best,

M.

Thanks for your help. I can't seem to find any 1.5mm allen bolts, can only find 1.4 and 1.6mm.

Posted
9 hours ago, JohnPlayerSpecial said:

Thanks for your help. I can't seem to find any 1.5mm allen bolts, can only find 1.4 and 1.6mm.

That was my problem when I was looking for taps as well. Either 1.5mm is an unusual size, or Pocher is measuring differently from everyone else. I gave up on the tap idea and just used the screws themselves, with a touch of silicone grease as lubricant. I screw every one fully into the receiving hole before assembly with a forward and back off motion, then take it out completely and fit the other part.

Others with better miniature engineering knowledge than me may be along to tell us what we’re missing…

best,

M.

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Posted (edited)
19 hours ago, Griph said:

The wear indicators on the tyres I put in a single direction to match when fitted.  No idea if this was right or not. I have started sanding the wear surfaces of the tyres to a Matt finish. 

Not even sure if you can choose the way the wear indicators point to. I also sanded my tires, to have the matt look but also to remove the molding seam in the middle.

 

I found a picture of a built Lotus with the letters on the tires in white in case anyone is interested. 

 

Nice work Schummie, love the way your brake discs look. 

Edited by Dinky
Posted
1 hour ago, Dinky said:

Not even sure if you can choose the way the wear indicators point to. I also sanded my tires, to have the matt look but also to remove the molding seam in the middle.

 

I found a picture of a built Lotus with the letters on the tires in white in case anyone is interested. 

 

Nice work Schummie, love the way your brake discs look. 

Yes meant to say about the seams!  Please do include the photo of the whitened Firestone branding!  I was wondering what is the best way of doing that? Progressive build up of dry brushing?

Posted
16 hours ago, Schummie said:

Some pictures from my effords to use as much as possible unpainted metal.

It's not every ones's taste, but it makes also clear the fantastic details in this kit and the superb casting. Some hidden under the paint.

Just to show that this is aso a possibility.

 

ecc3b8ce750678a7568c9dc6555b5e60.jpg

 

 

Don’t think I’d have the courage to do what you have one! But the results look amazing. What do do do after removal of the paint? 

Posted
15 minutes ago, Dinky said:

The below link contains pictures of the Lotus with white letters on the tires.

Not sure if it's allowed to post links to shops, if not please let me know and I remove will remove it.

https://shop.classicteamlotus.co.uk/pocher-hk114-lotus-72d---1972-british-gp-winner---emerson-fittipaldi-2191-p.asp

 

 

Thanks for sharing that! Very interesting - they also have the nose code, fairing and anvil removed.  I’d definitely want to be able to remove the nose to show the underlying detail on occasion!

Posted

Pretty clear that if you want to model it AT the 1972 British GP, the tyre lettering should not be white. Obviously, the “8” numbering is also for the British GP, and the chassis in its current state carries a different number. I agree the white lettering adds interest to the completed model, though…

best,

M.

Posted
2 hours ago, Griph said:

Don’t think I’d have the courage to do what you have one! But the results look amazing. What do do do after removal of the paint? 

The darker sections with gun metal acid. Longer periods, or more times to get darker colours.

The blank metal parts by polishing with more ore less fine sanding paper.

4000 for aluminium, 8000 for silver and 12000 for chrome.

This way you get the real metal look and structure. 
But it is indeed a lot of work. 
Maybe Hornby could think about offering a non painted version of the kit. 
With only the body parts painted.

Posted
8 hours ago, cmatthewbacon said:

That was my problem when I was looking for taps as well. Either 1.5mm is an unusual size, or Pocher is measuring differently from everyone else. I gave up on the tap idea and just used the screws themselves, with a touch of silicone grease as lubricant. I screw every one fully into the receiving hole before assembly with a forward and back off motion, then take it out completely and fit the other part.

Others with better miniature engineering knowledge than me may be along to tell us what we’re missing…

best,

M.

O! Well may have to just use kit screws, but thanks for your help.

 

 

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Posted

In the main I used the 1.4mm...however...I rarely used the kit screws for any of my builds (unless they were totally hidden)...preferring to replace them with correct scale and type bolts/nuts etc.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Ron

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