PRU pink Spitfire IX FR, 16 Squadron, RAF COMPLETE

[Biggles87]

You’re welcome, sorry I couldn’t find any more ( except one in B&W which won’t help ).

If I remember correctly I actually measured 30:1 which was still too pink to my eye so I kept adding a drop at a time until I was satisfied, so the final mix would have been close to 40:1.

 

John. 🇺🇦

[spitfire]

Hi John that looks really good, just how I imagined it.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[Winded Penguin]

Some mixing experiments with PRU pink to talk about.

Thank you for the contributions from @RichieW @alt-92 @mark.au @bigbadbadge @Biggles87 to help me with the question of whether to marble or pre-shade etc.

The consensus was quite revealing, and opens up post-shading even, as another option I wasn't thinking of before.

 

For the actual PRU pink mix I had a fantasy about putting 40 drops of white into the equivalent thinner and adding one drop of red. 

No problem I thought. However, I found both my white and red were much too thick out of the jar to enable that.

I could dilute both the paints with thinner added to each jar first (which is still an option to fall back on).

 

I've decided try a wacky experiment along the lines of @alt-92 suggestion. With an all over red pre-shade in Tamiya XF7.

I do have some form in this regard as both my PRU blue spits had the same thing done in Tamiya blue pre-shade XF8.

 

I popped on some panel lines in Revell Luminous red below, but having seen the bleed through in the second image, I don't think that extra step will work for this project.

 

So, instead of mixing 40-1 or 30-1 or whatever, I'll then apply a neat white over the pre-shade XF7 red as shown below, to the left. Just a slight pink tinge.

 

I can apply the white in a post-shade stylee, and if mixed thin enough, I'll hopefully be able to locally alter the final tone by building up layers, depending on what I need.

Worst case scenario is this doesn't work. In which case, back to diluting in the jar and 40-1 mix over the top of a failed experiment.

 

I'm keen to see what happens 😆

 

Thanks for dropping by today.

 

 

 

 

 

[Winded Penguin]

Back to work on the cockpit.

I decided not to hand paint oxygen tank straps when Tamiya masking tape and a silver paint pen is on hand.

 

Originally the tanks were airbrushed silver with the rest of that part of the fuselage.

I was going to leave it like that. On my last project, this area wasn't really so noticeable.

 

Then conscience got the better of me. I repainted the starboard tank black, and below I'm half way through added the masking tape strap.

Its so quick and easy this way. l get a much better result than I would hand painting or even masking and hand painting.

 

For the port side tanks, I've gone for grey with the silver strap added, after waiting for the paint to dry.

First image is without the strap

 

Next image is with the strap added. I'm using a gold/brass paint pen for the connector tube highlights.

 

I did some more work using Quinta studio parts on the cockpit, which I'll post about another time.

 

Browsing through the WIPs tonight I saw @Dansk is also building a 16 squadron pink aircraft. His project is a Tornado GR1 in Gulf pink !

That's quite remarkable symmetry at play. Nothing is really new is it?

 

That's all for today, thanks for looking in

[bigbadbadge]

Tanks and straps and other details looking good WP, great job and great idea to use the pen and tape.

Chris

[RichieW]

Love it, all the detail painting looks amazing. I'm a big fan of  Tamiya tape, the strap looks so much better than painting moulded detail. It looks like a lovely kit.

 

Richie

[AliGauld]

Looking good and thanks for the tape/pen tip I'll be nicking that one. 

 

Cheers,

Alistair

[mark.au]

Add me to the list of Tamiya Tape strapping converts.  Nice detailing in that cockpit.

[Biggles87]

The oxygen tank had white stencilling on it ( reading OXYGEN! ) which ran under the strap, if you want a challenge. I cheated and used the Barracuda cockpit stencil set on my last 1/32 Spitfire.  😗

 

John

[2996 Victor]

The tape/pen technique is brilliant! Not sure it work in 72nd as it might be over-thick, but still might give it a go! Brilliant progress, WP!

 

Cheers,

Mark

[Winded Penguin]

2 hours ago, Biggles87 said:

The oxygen tank had white stencilling on it ( reading OXYGEN! ) which ran under the strap, if you want a challenge. I cheated and used the Barracuda cockpit stencil set on my last 1/32 Spitfire.  😗

 

John

John, thanks that is really great info, as always.

So on consideration I'm not going to retro-fit on this project, because the strap itself will hardly be noticed based on the PRU blue project.

However, I'll remember it for the next project. which I collected from the shop yesterday (another Spit, but in 1/24 scale 😉 )

[spitfire]

8 hours ago, Biggles87 said:

The oxygen tank had white stencilling on it ( reading OXYGEN! ) which ran under the strap, if you want a challenge. I cheated and used the Barracuda cockpit stencil set on my last 1/32 Spitfire.  😗

 

John

I cheated and cut the OXYGEN decal in two before applying it.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[Biggles87]

Me too!

[Winded Penguin]

Made some more progress on the cockpit 🙂

 

Start of the AM PE part. I'm using Glue 'n glaze which seems to give me less issues than CA glue for this type of work.

I've brush painted the seat with a crudely mixed combo of Tamiya red brown and one other Tamiya colour. I forget which, but they sit next to each other in the box 😉

 

After the excitement with the Tamiya tape straps, I get to the Quinta Studio 3D decals.

 

Confession is I ordered them for the Hobbyboss model in error.

Instead of sending them back or buying the Hobbyboss model, I pressed ahead anyway. In the RAF I think this condition is called 'pressonitis'.

This is where back in the day, a pilot ought to have aborted the sortie and turned around, but instead carried on into low cloud anyway.

As a result of his decision he could create what is also know as a 'controlled flight into terrain' incident.

 

3D decals really work for me, lets just say it like that.

 

The dash fitted ok considering this isn't the model it was meant for.

 

On my last project I dabbled with acrylic polymer chord to add cabling in the cockpit.

This time I've done that again, plus added use of copper wire to get more realistic bends for pipework.

There is no pretense to accurate placement here though.  I'm using artistic license.

The result isn't 100% when viewing close-up photos but it will do when the cockpit is buttoned-up I think.

 

The result. The added pipework is a good un.

 

Next step will be an oil wash on top of the gloss lacquer.

 

Thanks for looking in today.

Edited December 9, 2022 by Winded Penguin
DNA = National Association of Dyslexics

[AliGauld]

Those Quinta decals are excellent.

I used them on an IL-2 build last year or the year before and was very impressed.

Really cracking work on the seat.

 

 

Cheers,

Alistair

[spitfire]

The Quinta stuff looks great but how do they work, do you have to glue them ? or use setting solution.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[Biggles87]

The 3D decals and copper wire have made a huge difference to the cockpit.

 

John. 🇺🇦

 

PS: What’s polymer chord?

 

[amos brierley]

1 hour ago, spitfire said:

The Quinta stuff looks great but how do they work, do you have to glue them ? or use setting solution.

Hello,

 

 I’ve bought some Quinta sets, but, haven’t found reasons to build the kits, yet.

 

That said, I believe you soak them like real decals then glue them into position, via something like PVA or super glue. 
 

Hope this helps.     😉

[Winded Penguin]

1 hour ago, spitfire said:

The Quinta stuff looks great but how do they work, do you have to glue them ? or use setting solution.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

And @amos brierley

 

That's correct Amos B - I use water purely to ease them off the paper. It's not then a 'ticking clock' rush to attach the 3D decals to the model after peeling off the backing.

 

Unlike a normal decal, IIRC it's recommended to use glue when attaching to the model.

I apply Glue 'n glaze which adhesive enough for the job - or I think PVA would do it -  and I find it is way more forgiving than CA glue in this application.

GnG allows for repositioning of the decal even after some time has passed.  The inevitable (when I'm doing it) glue overspill is also far less visible with GnG.

 

Put it this way, when I came back to the hobby I found PE a bit bewildering, but first time with 3D decals is very forgiving of beginner handling, in comparison.

[Dunny]

Some lovely detail work there WP, and a most informative WIP!

 

Cheers,

 

Roger

[Winded Penguin]

1 hour ago, Biggles87 said:

The 3D decals and copper wire have made a huge difference to the cockpit.

 

John. 🇺🇦

 

PS: What’s polymer chord?

 

Polymer chord is bead stringing wire.

 

I got hold of a brand called Beadalon. It doesn't fray where you cut it. It doesn't have much memory so not really a substitute for metal wire in that sense.

Many colours and thicknesses between 0.25mm-0.9mm -ish are available.

Can't remember if I bought it locally or online, but the Company website page on it is here.

 

I think I first heard about it on Youtube via Will Pattison's channel.

 

EDIT: talking of Will Pattison, here's his take on adding detail for hoses, featuring a 1/32 scale Spit.

Sorry I can't seem to find the actual video that features the polymer chord though, John 😱

 

Edited December 9, 2022 by Winded Penguin

[bigbadbadge]

Great work on the cockpit internals WP, it looks wonderful.   Like the 3d decals.

Chris

[Winded Penguin]

I  found the Will Pattison You tube video on tube and wire bending, including the polymer bead wire, if anyone is interested

 

 

 

Edited December 11, 2022 by Winded Penguin

[Winded Penguin]

Limited progress today.

 

3D decal for the undercarriage brass tubes glued in place overnight with Glue'nGlaze.

Some of the previous brass work not 100% perfect. It won't be seen with the naked eye anyway. I'll leave it as is🙂

And it still represents a good step forward for me.

 

Had a go at adding the sutton harness 'wire' arrangement as detailed by @bigbadbadge on my last build.

Using silver Beadalon 0.8mm polymer thread beading wire for that bit. The wire is stiff enough to leave floating in space hidden inside the fuselage.

 

More later in the week hopefully. Thanks for looking in today.

 

[bigbadbadge]

Cracking work in the cockpit and the harness will look great once in place as you can see it when all buttoned up

Chris