Mikey-1980 Posted November 7, 2022 Author Share Posted November 7, 2022 getting close to laying down paint now. It seems that Halfords do a decent rattle can flat white paint that would be suitable? Thr problem is, which one? Has anyone used a Halfords White rattle can that comes close to the RAF Antiflash White? If so, which one please? Or would the flat white Primer be the best bet? Cheers Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Swindell Posted November 7, 2022 Share Posted November 7, 2022 46 minutes ago, Mikey-1980 said: getting close to laying down paint now. It seems that Halfords do a decent rattle can flat white paint that would be suitable? Thr problem is, which one? Has anyone used a Halfords White rattle can that comes close to the RAF Antiflash White? If so, which one please? Or would the flat white Primer be the best bet? Cheers Mike Hi Mike If you specifically want a flat paint Halfords white primer will be fine, but personally I'd go with a coat of their Gloss White overall and then matt the upper surfaces down after decalling. The anti flash white finish was gloss undersides and sides and flat upper surfaces. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted November 7, 2022 Author Share Posted November 7, 2022 Thanks @Dave Swindell I had heard the underside was gloss finish. Nice to have it confirmed 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted November 22, 2022 Author Share Posted November 22, 2022 Morning all! Bit of an update for you on the build......XD818 is almost ready for primer. After the 1:1 humans second successful orbit, and the new obsession of the rotunded chap in red that visits us but once a year. I managed to get some work done of the Valiant. The instructions downloaded from the MikrMir site did not print out clearly at all, so determining which PE part went where was a bit of a challenge. I know they may not be in the right places for the purests out there, but this was my best guest and effort due to quite a few fitment issues. You can just see the twin pitot tubes on each wing tip in the pictures....I hope, as well as the PE intakes as well. Mounting point for the 4mm acrylic rod is drilled and prepped too I would imagine the first coat of primer will show up any issus that may need to be address, to which I suspect there will be a quite a few. The 48" and 24" registration decals turned up as well as the 155mm MDF display base (Which will be stained in Oak)...though I suspect I would need the next size up of 220mm diameter to accomodate the crest successfully. as it doesnt leave a lot of room for the 4mm acrylic rod, which also need to be bent into shape....any tips on how to achieve a soft "S" bend would be great. I suspect warming up in boiling water should make it soft enought to bend into shape. So far so good, and already planning the next build.......potentially encased in clear blue resin......... 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
binbrook87 Posted November 22, 2022 Share Posted November 22, 2022 Looking good Mike 👍👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Swindell Posted November 22, 2022 Share Posted November 22, 2022 1 hour ago, Mikey-1980 said: I know they may not be in the right places for the purests out there, but this was my best guest and effort due to quite a few fitment issues. Well done Mike, most of the bits look to be in the right place. The "towel rail" ariel should be just above the bottom edge of the stbd (right hand) nosewheel door when the door is open if you get the urge to correct it. 1 hour ago, Mikey-1980 said: the 4mm acrylic rod, which also need to be bent into shape....any tips on how to achieve a soft "S" bend would be great. I suspect warming up in boiling water should make it soft enought to bend into shape. That might work, but I'd look to using a hot air gun/hair drier aimed specifically at where you want the bend. It's easiest if you use all 3 hands, hold the rod above and below where you want the bend and direct the heat at where you want the bend with the other hand. Apply gentle pressure in the direction you want the bend, remove the heat as soon as it starts to bend, and don't force the bend as the rod cools, if necessary, re-apply heat and bend further. Once the desired bend is achieved hold in position and set the bend by cooling under cold tap (turn on with 4th hand). You can achieve a gentle bend by heating a long length of rod down to a very tight bend by heating a very short section, you may have to shield the rod from the heat where it's not wanted - use scrap plywood/metal etc held in hands 5 & 6. It's best to bend the rod before cutting to length, especially if you want the bend close to one end as you can leave a bit extra to aid holding the rod to bend it and cut the excess off afterwards to give you the bend exactly where you want it. Practice, employ slave labour or contract out to a trained octopus.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted November 22, 2022 Author Share Posted November 22, 2022 🤣 Thats fantastic @Dave Swindell thanks for the advice on the rod bending, looks like I may have to employ the protoge, who already can name all 3 V Force bombers by sight, though with a little poetic licence on his pronunciation I'll move the towel rail as well as you recommend, as I say, the instructions were a little unclear on its actual location, but I can get that changed before paint too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted November 22, 2022 Author Share Posted November 22, 2022 Small update, the towel rail antenna cannot be moved with out causing damage to it. So with that in mind, it's staying where it is. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted November 23, 2022 Author Share Posted November 23, 2022 Primer Time!!! Its not as clean as I would have hoped, but like a certain talking donkey...that'll do I did think I had enough Tamiya TS-26 rattle paint left, but alas nay.....more on order to give the Valiant the anti-flas white coat we all know and love 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted November 29, 2022 Author Share Posted November 29, 2022 After 2 attempts and several light layers of Tamiyas TS-26 Pure white rattle can...The Valiant is in a position to start some detailing paint work From what I can gatherm there isn;t much additional paint work really needed, not even the antiglare coating infront of the canopy either? 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Riot Posted November 29, 2022 Share Posted November 29, 2022 That white has come out lovely, I think I need to get a few cans of TS-26. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted November 29, 2022 Author Share Posted November 29, 2022 3 minutes ago, Lord Riot said: That white has come out lovely, I think I need to get a few cans of TS-26. Make sure you buy a few cans if you do, This is the result of 1.5 cans on a 1.144 model. Its very thin and will run if you're not careful. Other than that, it does give a great finish 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
binbrook87 Posted November 29, 2022 Share Posted November 29, 2022 Great work on finally getting the paint laid down Mike. White is a reet pain isn't it? 🙄 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted November 30, 2022 Author Share Posted November 30, 2022 A pain is one way to describe it 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted December 7, 2022 Author Share Posted December 7, 2022 Mini (ish) update for you..... So last night I decided to make a start on the decalling of the XD818.......the decal sheet provided looked fairly decent, lots of small decals, no problem....that was my first mistake.......on face value the decals looked intaked and good to go, but when soaking them to then apply to the airframe, they ALL disintergrated before they ever came off the decal sheet. I was not happy.......So...into the stash I go. Thankfully I had a range of rondels from Hannants I used for the Beverley build a few years back...funnily enough.....that was a MikrMir kit too.....with dodgy decals. I didnt get a picture of the destroyed rondles, but this is a fairly representative example of the quality. This was taken 12 hours after application. Registration numbers will be added soon, as I wanted the rondels to fully dry before applying them, I didnt fancy accidentally nudging them and ruining the build The remaining decals on the supplied sheet may be OK? though I highly doubt it. This may turn out to be a very basic decalling process with some parts painted on and most left off. Finding an alternative decal sheet is VERY expensive for the 1/144 Valiant. Also, and a slight segway away from the Valiant, I took advantage of the Airfix Aldi middlie isle offers and picked the T.4 Provost as a quick weekend build and as a Christmas present for my 2 year old who is quickly becomeing obsessed with aircraft. MWAHAHAHAHAAAAA! Its a nice kit and really easy to put together. Once the cockpit was painted and completed, the whole build took around 90 minutes to complete. I didnt fancy having the pain of painting in red as per the box art, so with some assistance from @binbrook87 on some ideas, I settled on what was left in my rattle can stash. Hey Presto...a cammo T.4 Provost I've not been too fussed over squadron and paint scheme accuracy as the lad is only 2 years old.....chances are this will be destroyed quicker than PMQ's about the forth coming budget. Onwards with the Valiant, as the base is being stained as we speak, and the next task will be to bend the acrylic rod into a convincing shape..... Enjoy! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Poultney Posted December 7, 2022 Share Posted December 7, 2022 Yeah, Mikromir's decals are questionable at best. It's a shame because some of their kits are actually pretty nice for short runs. I did manage to get them to work for my first Mikromir Victor, it's an older build so not my best work. The decal colours aren't great For my second one I printed the roundels, used a decal sheet for the serials (although I could have printed those as well and probably would if I did this again), and only two small stencil markings were taken from the kit decal sheet. The kit decals didn't do this scheme anyway, but I'd have done something like this regardless. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted December 7, 2022 Author Share Posted December 7, 2022 Nice builds there Adam! yea, it is a shame, but heya ho, all part of the fun eh? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Poultney Posted December 7, 2022 Share Posted December 7, 2022 5 hours ago, Mikey-1980 said: Nice builds there Adam! yea, it is a shame, but heya ho, all part of the fun eh? Yep that's what I love about these kits, not so simple as an airfix build (nice JP also) and so much more rewarding when you finally see it done 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted December 7, 2022 Author Share Posted December 7, 2022 Well I'm currently applying the registration numbers for the old bird....however the set of 48" numbers only supply 1 set of numbers. So currently the Valiant has XD81 on each wing.....nifty way of getting another sale from Mark 1 decals there 😒 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
binbrook87 Posted December 7, 2022 Share Posted December 7, 2022 Great work so far Mike. That white looks spot on after your earlier troubles. Decal hell though eh?! Some kits do test the patience...go for an easy one next time 😂 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Poultney Posted December 7, 2022 Share Posted December 7, 2022 10 minutes ago, Mikey-1980 said: Well I'm currently applying the registration numbers for the old bird....however the set of 48" numbers only supply 1 set of numbers. So currently the Valiant has XD81 on each wing.....nifty way of getting another sale from Mark 1 decals there 😒 Yep... I usually buy a few at a time, given how many models I have that use them I will likely get good use out of them. Could probably choose ones that two sets provide enough decals for both for (ie no more than two of any number across both serials, except 6/9). That sometimes doesn't work out like with my Valiant WZ363 and Victor XA935 which I built around the same time, I tried to do that with those but couldn't due to the limitations of the details in the very old Kader Valiant kit limiting me to a few airframes. In the end I used leftover homemade decals from my model of WZ377 pieced together to make WZ363. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted December 23, 2022 Author Share Posted December 23, 2022 Still waiting for the additional 48" decals for the registration for the underside of the wings to arrive. I guess they have been "lost" somewhere in the Royal Snail system? So, in the mean time, I decided to crack on with the stand and the mounting of the Valiant. A little heat from a heat gun and very carefully moulding into place these are the preliminary results. The base needs a little cleaning up though In the meantime, this build will be on hold for the moment and hopefully finished soon. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted January 23, 2023 Author Share Posted January 23, 2023 Small update...the decals have arrived and will be completed along side Vulcan XL316 at the same time. A little touch up paint here and there for the Valiant, but as it stands I'll keep it reasonable simple. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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