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MGC GTS Sebring 1968, C1 Models Transkit, Aoshima, 1/24


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Time to get on with the details, now...

 

chromed-lights.jpg

 

Chris provides replacement main headlights, and four racing lights (only two are needed for MBL). The main headlights are shaped so they fit better under the Perspex cowls than the kit versions, but use the kit lens. He also provides lenses for the racing lights cast in resin. The chrome is AK branded Alclad 3, which works really well if you apply it in really light mist coats over Tamiya Gloss Black. This is 7 coats...

 

lights-with-lenses.jpg

 

You can see the transkit lens at the bottom of this picture... it's quite "cloudy." Fortunately, a rummage through the stash yielded some crystal clear polystyrene lenses for racing lights from a Mini rally kit which fit perfectly. (The Mini has an option for covers for the lights as well...).

 

lights-fitted.jpg

 

And here they are in place. Time to start working on the photo-etch grille, I think.

 

with-lights.jpg

 

right-profile.jpg

 

Definitely got a purposeful stance, I reckon...

best,

M.

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I've used the "Hold n Fold" for quite a lot of Folding over the years, but here it's coming into its own for Holding...

 

grille.jpg

 

The grille is a stack of five layers of PE... grille, two frames, and two layers of badge. The grille and frames stack like a deck of cards, and the HoldnFold kept them in place while I applied thin superglue to the edges, which capillar-ied into place nicely, bonding them permanently in seconds. Flip it around and do the other end, and then thicker 30s-cure superglue let me position the badges precisely before it went off. Very neat, though I say so myself.

 

best,

M.

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Thanks, gentlemen. The grille is now complete.... a very nice piece of photo etch. The engraved badge takes paint well. I used Tamiya lacquer paint cleaned off with a small cotton swab moistened with thinner, and finished with some Citadel 'ardcoat.

 

grille-on.jpg

 

best,

M.

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On to the details now. Light clusters are fixed, and I have to do the rear race roundel because various bits of furniture fit over it...

 

lights-on-rear-2.jpg

 

lights-on-front.jpg

 

lights-on-left.jpg

 

The light cowls are the last bit that worries me. Once they are done, we're on the home straight. I think whoever has done the decals has done a really good job...

best,

M.

 

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cowls-on.jpg

 

The headlightlight cowls are on. They are well defined, and the combination of an Optivisor, very sharp nail scissors and an angled light made cutting and trimming them relatively straightforward. They overlap the bodywork substantially, as they do on the original. I'm mulling over how to make the riveted panels that actually hold them on. Embossed aluminum tape, maybe.

 

bonnet-strap.jpg

 

The bonnet strap is more wine bottle foil and the etched hardware from the transkit. I threaded the two straps with the buckle still attached to the fret -- it made it a lot easier to hang two U-shaped loops over the central bar. Flattening it out held everything in place and let me cut the buckle free. Then I adjusted the top and bottom lengths to get the fittings in the right place before folding the etch over each end.

 

back-door.jpg

 

Back door hardware and reflectors attached. The effectiveness of the red interior at "lifting" the whole thing is clear, and what I was hoping for.

 

roof-light.jpg

 

Identification light, red for Sebring '68 in position. Now the tape is off, most of the handling will be using cotton gloves.

 

front-view-from-right.jpg

 

...as you can see from the dust!

Time for the rest of the decals, and then the final hardware details which again sit on top or very close to some of the markings...

best,

M.

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