Hamden Posted June 30, 2024 Posted June 30, 2024 This one is starting to come together very nicely with your usual attention to the smallest details Roger 1
CrazyCrank Posted June 30, 2024 Author Posted June 30, 2024 8 hours ago, Hamden said: This one is starting to come together very nicely with your usual attention to the smallest details Roger Thanks a lot, Roger 👍 I try to do my best, as usual
CrazyCrank Posted June 30, 2024 Author Posted June 30, 2024 Evening gentlemen I go on improving the bodywork before painting it: And so, today, I've worked the whole afternoon on the right door of this car. if you remember, the front window pillar of this door was broken when the door fell down, and I repaired it... twice ! And it broke again this morning while I was studying how I could do to fabricate the compass which retain the door opened, the thing situated on the front edge of the door aperture ! I noticed also that nothing has been supplied by Revell to make the upholstery on the horizontal part of the doors, which acts as a part of the roof ! And nothing, as well, has been supplied to make the upholstery of the front and rear window pillars ! So I killed two birds with one stone, reinforcing the window pillars and making the trim for them and for the horizontal part of the doors, which will join the roof. But that's not all, at the same time, I've designed the system that will enable the famous retaining compass I mentioned above to be hinged to the door. A sketch is better than a convoluted explanation, so here's a pictorial report: First I made the window's pillars trims, using 1.0x1,0mm square plastic rod, that I glued in place and them filed and sanded to reduce the thickness to about 0.5 mm. Then I used 1.0 mm half round plastic rod to make the edges of the horizontal portion of the door On the front edge of the horizontal portion of the door, the trim has been moved, to get an inside 1.5 mm offset to keep clearance for the compass once folded when the door is closed. And at this place, it's also thicker, about 1.0 mm, because I drilled in its middle a 0.5 mm hole, in which I'll thread later the pin/axle of the door compass Then, helped by a paper template I made previously, I cit off in a 0.15 mm thick plastic sheet the upholstery of this part of the door, that I glued in place little by little, and then enhanced, filed and sanded All that rest is only putty ! And tomorrow, I'll do the same job for the left door. Then, I'll have to take precise measurements to determine the exact length of the 2 branches of each compass ! Those branches will be scratched using 1.0 mm wide Nickel-Silver strip, 0.3 mm thick , and the hinges pins will be made with 0.5 mm needles. I've just begun to make them: Of course, I've checked if, after all these modifications, the door can be placed on the body and whether it open and close freely. Obviously it's the case ! See ya later, chaps 😉 11
Peter2 Posted June 30, 2024 Posted June 30, 2024 The working door hinges (and their concealment) are a touch of genius. 1
CrazyCrank Posted July 1, 2024 Author Posted July 1, 2024 4 hours ago, Peter2 said: The working door hinges (and their concealment) are a touch of genius. Very kind of you, @Peter2, but the idea was not mine, but Mercedes Benz's. I'm just a modest imitator, and I don't even know if I'm going to be able to install this compass and make it work properly 🙄 1
Brandy Posted July 1, 2024 Posted July 1, 2024 This is well up to your usual standard I see. Lovely detail work as we have come to expect. Ian 1
CrazyCrank Posted July 1, 2024 Author Posted July 1, 2024 1 hour ago, Brandy said: This is well up to your usual standard I see. Lovely detail work as we have come to expect. Ian Thank you, Ian
CrazyCrank Posted July 1, 2024 Author Posted July 1, 2024 Evening, guys On this Revell kit, the windscreen and the rear glass are molded in the same part, and are joined by the roof liner. This roof liner has been designed to block and retain the door's pins which serve to hinge the doors. After having modified the right door and primed it, I've made, fortunately, a test fit between it, and the body shell, using the clear part, in order to check that the door could be opened and closed properly. It wasn't the case, and I had to file and sand here and there a bit to adapt the door. I was lucky to get this idea before painting the bodywork parts. Obviously, I'll do the same for the left door. Here is the right door primed: That said, I am in a dilemma ! Indeed, I would like to represent the blue upholstery 300 SLR Coupé, instead of the red upholstery one. With that in mind, as the kit supplies only the red upholstery decals, I've ordered at Indycals.net a set of 300 SLR Mille Millie decals, which are blue and exactly the same They could arrive at home in 2 weeks, or 6 to 8 weeks, as Michael wrote to me, or even never arrive if the post office malfunctions! So, I have to wait for their delivery to decide which color I'll paint the leather covered pats of the cabin and the dash cap: blue for this new decals, or red for the kit's ones. If all turns badly, I won't receive the blue decals, and I'll have to modify the dash to add the hole I filled on the left, so, I can't work on this dash until I receive or not the decals ! If wall turns well, I'll receive the blue decals, and then, I'll have to modify, once again, the body shell, the bonnet and even the grille ! Why ? Because the grilles of the two versions of the 300SLR Coupé are different ! On the red upholstery one, the grille is as it's supplied in the kit: But, on the blue upholstery 300 SLR, it is like on the following pictures: As you can see, this grille doesn't have the horizontal bar on either side of the star, but more importantly, it doesn't have the two little lugs on the sides. Now these little lugs fit into recesses on the nose of the car. So, with this version, I'd have to fill the recesses with putty ! That's why I can't paint and varnish the body at the moment. What's more, I'll also have to modify the bonnet because on this version, it incorporates a large flat air intake at the rear, and I'll have also to modify some little things on the body shell and the rear shelf.... but that's not the hardest thing to do! I'have too to find a 1:24 decal of this Mercedes bonnet emblem: All this to tell you that once I've modified the left door the same way as the right one, and I've finished making the door retaining brackets, I won't be able to go ahead with the bodyshell until I've received, or not, the decals I ordered, so potentially for 2 months maximum. 🙄 Hopefully, they arrive sooner 🙏 3
CrazyCrank Posted July 4, 2024 Author Posted July 4, 2024 Evening gentlemen Still without news of the decals I ordered, I moved on to work on the engine 😉 And as I gathered some experience while assembling the 300 SLR Mille Miglia's one, I'm now able to do much better (I would even say "I have to", no choice), in terms of precision and cleanness of the assembly, but also in terms of accuracy and faithfulness with the real car. And so I spent yesterday more than 8 hours to clean 5 engine parts, removing flash, molding lines, injection pins etc, but also, modifying and preparing them to improve the engine accuracy. And that's how I decided to make all the plastic surgery BEFORE spraying any first droplet of primer ! I made it a point of honour to prepare the parts in the best possible way from an aesthetic point of view, so that not the slightest trace of junction or gluing between the parts, the slightest scratch on the plastic, or the slightest surface irregularity would be visible, once painted. I used a lot of tiny amounts of UV Light curing Tamiya Putty which can be sanded 1 or 2 minutes after you apply it ! Which modifications ? First, I cut off the ignition coil and the alternator, on the right side of the engine block. The alternator, because it is out of scale and inaccurate, the ignition coil because it's too big and, overall, alone, when this inline-8-cylinder is a dual ignition engine , so that 2 coils are required ! On this last picture, you can notice that I've also filled with UV light curing putty 2 round holes. They were suppose to hold 2 pins situated on ther lower water cooling hose, but this later would be badly placed with this holes, so I filled them, and I've re-drilled them at a lower place a few minutes later. Then, I worked on the air intake manifold, which is supposed to hold firmly in place on the engine top, thanks to 2 large pins, the wider on the back. Unfortunately, thanks to the poor quality of Revell's plastic, the front pin broke. So I replaced it by a 1.5 mm brass tube, reinforced by a steel rod thread into it, and I reinforced the rear pin with a .5 mm steel rod. And to be safer, I reinforced the 2nd and the fifth tubes of the manifold, the same way I filled the front hole and redrilled it 1.5 mm (to hold the brass pin). The middle hole of the engine top, supposed to hold the fixing pin of a non needed part, has been filled as well. I drilled also 2 needed 0.5 mm holes on the engine top for holding the steel rods I placed in the 2nd and 5th tubes of the manifold.... but didn't take any single photo ! It was time to continue the preparing job, drilling the 8 holes for fuel injectors on the left side of the engine block And the 16 holes for spark plugs on the engine top The difficulty, here, was to get evenly spaced holes: about 1.5 mm between two spark plugs of the same cylinder, and 2,2 mm between each group of two holes Each hole is 0.55 mm diameter, and its center must be placed at 0.75 mm of the left edge of the horizontal center of the engine top ! How to do ??? I made a template, drawing it in Fusion 360: And 3D printed it Then, I fixed it on the engine top with masking tape, trying to be the more precise as possible (I failed 😡), and I drilled the holes on the engine top, crossing through the holes of the template ! Not so bad, obviously , but not as perfect as I expected 😪 The front end of the air intake manifold receive a sensor (imho) which is relied to the front of the injection pump by a long hose. On the Revell kit's part, they're two pins at the right, on this end, and, studying the ref. photos, I could notice that it's the rear one which is used for this hose So, I cut off the rear pin, and drilled a hole in there, which will receive later its banjo ... I also glued the two parts which form the top water cooling line (a manifold and a piece which is, if I'm not mistaken, the expansion tank) A lot of work is still to do on these parts, as know those who followed my topic about the 30 SLR Mille Miglia Next, as they are ow entirely prepared, I glued together the 2 sides of the engine block, and its top, and I carefully sanded all the joints, that I filled and re-sanded several times, until I get a clean surface state, and no seams, at least, no joints that are still easily visible after priming So, hereunder is the actual state of the engine: Obviously, the two parts of the let side of the engine I cut off have been replaced by 3D printed parts I already re-designed and printed. You'll see that in another post, this one is already long enough 🙄 See you later 6
CrazyCrank Posted July 5, 2024 Author Posted July 5, 2024 Evening guys I told you yesterday that I'd already 3D printed a new alternator and new ignitions coils. I've slightly modified my drawings, which were not as precise as I'd imagined ! And I drew also a support for the alternator, because in the reality, there is one, which I could call a cradle: The ignition coils, superior and inferior ones: The 3D printed parts: I modified as well the injection pump, which was rather inaccurate: Great new: I've learned from Michael that my decals from "Indycals.net" have been dispatched, so all I have to do now is waiting for the respective postal services to do their job And, at last, I've managed to print correctly and nicely the rear and front spoked wheels, with spokes of 0.2 mm diameter 😮 thanks to my new 3D printer ELEGOO SATURN 4 ULTRA. I have to confess that it took me 3 days and cost me around forty failed wheels before I found the right printing parameters for this very special case, but it was worth it! Progress is slow but sure 😎 6
keefr22 Posted July 5, 2024 Posted July 5, 2024 All your printed parts look great, but those wheels are just stunning !! Keith 1
CrazyCrank Posted July 7, 2024 Author Posted July 7, 2024 Evening guys What are you supposed to do when you noticed you've done a terrible mistake ? My job on the engine block top: The engine compartment of the true car - The front is on the right on this one : Does it look good to you ? Yes ??? you're wrong ! On the true car, you can see that the spark plug dispatchers (the "flutes") are placed on the left of the pipes of the air intake manifold (at the very bottom of the picture) And the spark plug cables go towards the right of the car, passing between the pipes... What means that the spark plugs are on the right of the engine block top ! And on which side of it did I drilled the holes for the plugs, um....????? ON THE LEFT 😡 Very funny, indeed ! OK, I opened my putty can and filled the 16 holes on the left. Then I used again my template, and drilled 16 new holes on the right. After a long sanding session, I could glue the oil filter on the left side of the engine block, and the two rocker arms covers on the top, and then I could prime this engine with "caca d'oie" color automotive filler, and got a very nice and pretty neat outcome This block will be primed in black tomorrow before applying the matt aluminium top coat and finally clear coating it in matt Stay tuned if you like 😉 and thanks for watching 😎 7
Toftdale Posted July 8, 2024 Posted July 8, 2024 It not nice to know you have made a mistake, however its nice to know I'm not alone 😁. Watching with interest as ever - Andy 1
CrazyCrank Posted July 8, 2024 Author Posted July 8, 2024 Evening guys 😎 Before priming the engine block, I've installed the 8 injectors in their "holes" on the left side. I used 8 short sections of 0.8 mm aluminium tube that I threaded in the holes and secured with a droplet of CA glue. Stupidly, I forgot to take pictures of this job !, Apologies ... And I've also fabricated the spark plugs and their cables First, as I've now a fantastic 3D printer, I designed and 3D printed spark plug caps. They are 1.1 mm wide and 2,0 mm height !, 0, 4 mm hole on the top and 0. mm hole on the bottom [/url Then, I used 0.30 mm black electrical wire, and some sections of 0.6 / 0,4 mm aluminium tube. I threaded the black wire on the top of the plug cap in a 0.4 mm hole, and threaded and glued the alu tube on the bottom of the plug cap I decided also to use 1.2 mm brass nuts, threaded onto the aluminium tube, to simulate the protruding part of a spark plug And I painted the plug caps with Tamiya Rubber black It's not a big job I've made today, but it was extremely time consuming and hard on the eyes, since I've had to work wearing magnifying glasses during several hours 🙄 4
CrazyCrank Posted July 9, 2024 Author Posted July 9, 2024 Morning guys While my primed engine parts are drying, I've detailed the upper water cooling line. On the real car, there is: - a tiny pipe coming out of the expansion tank, just below its cap. - a big hose coming out of the bottom of the expansion tank, on the left - a big hose coming out the front part of the manifold, on the left, just before the radiator - a tiny pipe coming out the top of the tank, on the left of the manifold section which connect with the radiator - a pipe coming out of the junction between the tank and the manifold, on the right, which contain, imho, a sensor (probably for engine water temperature) I've first designed and 3D printed a new cap for the expansion tank, cut of the one which is moulded in the kit part, and replaced it by the newone Then, I've drilled four 0.4 mm holes where pipes are coming out , and a 0.6 mm hole for the water temperature sensor. I've inserted I the four first holes a little pin of 0,4 mm steel rod, and 0.6 mm aluminium tube in the fifth one The pins will serve to fix the pipes, and the alu tube will receive the water temperature cable All engine parts are primed, and the engine block, the ejection pump and the air intake manifold hav already received their aluminium top coat. I'm still waiting my US decals 🙄 Stay connected 😉 8
CrazyCrank Posted July 13, 2024 Author Posted July 13, 2024 Afternoon guys Big update today 😮 I'm working in a rather disorganised way, sometimes on the bodywork, sometimes on the engine, sometimes on the drum brakes 🙄 On the engine: - I've scratched an engine starter, using two plastic bits, and a touch-up of Tamiya semi-gloss black - I've painted all the parts I'd already made - I've fixed on the front of the engine the pulley, which have been made on the lathe turning an aluminum rod. - The pulley is attached with a plate I 3D designed and printed - I've glued in place on the right side the alternator cradle - And on the front of the engine block, a part which covers the front of the rover arms covers - And I went on detailing the upper water cooling line: I've already added the 2 hoses that came out of the front of the expansion tank, and added the 3 rubber sleeves, that I made of strips of "Chatterton" (an electrical insulating black nylon tape). A lot of work is still to do on this part I've also added the tiny cable, which come out of the "water temperature sensor"? It's made of a .15 mm electrical cable On the real car, there is two nuts on the sensor. At this scale, it was impossible to find them in a d-hardware store (.6 mm and 0.8 mm outside diameter ! ), so, I 3D printed them, in 0.9 and 0.7 mm, with a 0.4 mm hole crossing through them On the brake drums: - The 2 parts supplied in the kit for each braking system, front and rear, incorporate also the cardan shafts and bellows - Plus, they are very badly moulded and totally inaccurate I decided to have a try with Fusion to 3D design new drums, taking inspiration of these photographs And I produced this, for the front drums: And this other, for the rear drums: For commodity, each drum system has been separated in 3 parts to be printed, which allow to avoid failed prints Obviously, it' s been necessary to 3D design and print new bellows For the wheel side And for the drum side And to complete the front and rear axles, which incorporate the brake drums, I 'll use 1,0 mm brass rod and 1.5/1,1 mm brass tube, which will be nickel-plated later. Rear drums Front drums: Of course, those prints are draft ones, they haven't be cleaned carefully before I took the photos. They will be printed later in 0.2 mm layers and thoroughly cleaned before priming ! On the body: I received yesterday my Indycals.net decals with blue upholstery for the seats, so I can now consider to make the "blue" version of this legendary Coupé. Which suppose, first, to modify the grille ! Formerly, I told you I'll modify again the kit grille I'd already tortured, but... having slept, on it, I mostly prefer keeping and securing this precious part in a saving box, and intend to create mine. So, I used, once again, Fusion 360 to 3D design a new part, helped by a photo I took of the kit part, and by its dimensions I measured with a caliper. And I produced, after only 2 attempts, a grilles that fit perfectly on the body shell nose !, and whose shapes are very similar to the kit part. If you're observant, you'll have noticed that the piece I've drawn doesn't incorporate the part that's supposed to hold the hinge included in the bonnet moulding at the back. In fact, I haven't done it yet... And on second thought, I'm wondering if I'm not going to modify the bonnet itself, to articulate it with the body, without using this extra part, whose modelling, necessarily ultra-precise for the hinge to work, is not at all easy, to put it mildly. I've to make tries with the 300 SLR Mille Miglia second kit's bonnet I've still in my stash. Its shapes are not exactly the same at the rear, but exactly the same the those of the Coupé, ate the front edge. Doing so, I don't take any risk See you later, gentlemen 8
Neddy Posted July 13, 2024 Posted July 13, 2024 I know it's been said before but this is micro-engineering at its best. Amazing stuff. 1
Toftdale Posted July 13, 2024 Posted July 13, 2024 Are the breaks going to work? 😅🤣. But seriously though that's some very delicate work - Andy 1 1
CrazyCrank Posted July 14, 2024 Author Posted July 14, 2024 17 hours ago, Neddy said: I know it's been said before but this is micro-engineering at its best. Amazing stuff. Thank you @Neddy, I always tryto improve my skill, to produce better models at each time 12 hours ago, Toftdale said: Are the breaks going to work? 😅🤣. But seriously though that's some very delicate work - Andy Funny @Toftdale, no at this scale, but at 1:12, they could work Thanks for your kind comment 👍 1
CrazyCrank Posted July 15, 2024 Author Posted July 15, 2024 Afternoon gentlemen I went on modifying the body First, I've removed the fins of the ventilation grill cover (this one which is placed in front of the windscreen. And I replaced this stuff by a slightly curved plate, as on the real, that I 3D designed and printed. It's 0.3 mm thick and has 3 rectangular holes, under where will be placed the mesh later. Second: I modified the hole I'd drille under the right door aperture . On the red Coupé, this hole is rounds, but on the blue Coupé, it's rectangular But that is not all: as you can see on Alamy"s 300 SLR Blue interior page, there's also a rectangular hole on the left Sid of the body shell , below the door aperture, and this time, it's place above the chrome decorative strip, in line with the door handle. I don't know if you noticed, but my body isn't primed anymore ! The primer remained tacky when handling in warm and wet weather, when I sprayed it about 3 weeks ago. So I decided to give the body parts a vigoureux bath in IPA. Curiously, the doors I primed at the end, have not the same issue ! As they are fragile, I don't remove the primer on them ! Third, I fabricated a new hinge for the bonnet/hood because the kit grille, which formed a part of this hinge, will not beb used, since I printed a new one for the blue Coupé I used .5 mm thick 1.0 mm wide brass strip, 2 sections of 1,0 mm tube and 1 Larger section of 1.3/1,0 mm brass tube. 3 parts for both hook were soldered to get this: And you can see on the photo just above, I've glued a 1.00x1,00 mm styrene strip on the underside of the bonnet, which rests against of the plastic hinge hooks. It marks the limit the new brass hooks must not cross, otherwise the hinge couldn't work properly. In the same time, it will be use to fabricate the housing of the flat part of the hooks that will be attached on it. I cut out the plastic hinge, with, I confess it, a little bit of apprehension , and began to make the housings: All is now ready to be assembled: I mark the exact position of the 1.3mm tube, the axis of rotation of the hinge. And I fix the brass tube with Tamiya Light curing Putty The hooks find their housings very precisely. Of course, they are not yet glued on the bonnet ! On the picture below, it's not very visible, but: - I've temporarily attached the radiator on the tubular frame - I've place the frame into the body shell, bonnet in place - And I check if the hooks of the hinge or their housings hit or not the radiator . Fortunately, it's not the case, but it comes down to just 0.5 mm !! by Thierry Decorniquet, sur Flickr Fourth......ouuuups, I've not already done it ! It's the matter of modifying the bonnet by adding the air intake ! So stay tuned, ans thanks for watching 😎 9
CrazyCrank Posted July 16, 2024 Author Posted July 16, 2024 Evening guys I've achieved to modify the bonnet, to get it as close as I could to the "blue interior" 300 SLR Coupé's one , taking inspiration of these photos, amongst several others Initially I was thinking I would scratch the air intake with plastic cards etc, in the old-fashion way, but the shapes are a bit complex , and finally, I designed it in Fusion 360 and 3D printed it. I've drawn the marks which allow to place correctly the air intake And placed masking tape on the body and bonnet to delimiting exactly the air intake glueing position. The tape prevent also the CA glue to spread on the bonnet where it must above all not go ! It's done: The strips you can see on the air intake are due to the 3D printing (I badly oriented the part on the plate in Chitubox), but the primer/filler will fix this All that I've to do now is: - finishing the making of the door's compass - And making the retaining system for the bonnet when it's opened. And then, I could prime again all the body parts, and next paint and clear coat them 5
CrazyCrank Posted July 17, 2024 Author Posted July 17, 2024 Evening gentlemen Not really a big progress today, but the tasks I listed in my previous post are done: I've finished the door's compass: They consist of short sections of nickel-silver strip 1.00 mm wide and 0.3 mm thick, cut to the required lengths and drilled 0.5 mm at each end. 2 sections, one shorter and one longer, are hinged in the middle to form a compass. Once folded, the compass fits into the groove I made in the front of the horizontal edge of the door. And I've made the retaining system for the bonnet: A short section of 0.6 / 0.4 mm aluminium tube has been flattened at an end, and the flattened section has been drilled to 0.4 mm. A "pin" of 0.4 mm steel will be tinserted later into the hole. And, in the 0.4 mm hole of the other end of this alu tube, I've inserted a .4 mm steel rod This set form the retaining bar of the bonnet. But, obviously, you need a part to be fixed on the underside of the bonnet, in which this bar will be hinged, so, I drew and 3D printed it It's a tiny part: 1.0 x 1.2 x 1,3 mm, with a 0.4 mm hole on each wall The difficulty was to insert the 0.4 mm pin into the 3 holes, both in the resin part, while trapping the retaining bar through its own 0.4 mm hole. And then to cut the excess of the pin on both sides, without breaking the fragile resin part. And at last, to secure the pin with two micro-droplets of CA glue, without glueing the whole system, since he hinge must be functional ! Curiously and fortunately , I managed to do this delicate job at the first attempt ! I had still to fabricate a part which could hold the bar against the bonnet when it is closed, and again, I used 3D printing, because it's 1.2 mm x 1,0 mmx 1.0 mm height, and I'm not able to make correctly this with metal (I tried but I failed) All this precious Lilliputian parts can't be mounted at the moment, since the body isn't painted. So I've put them in a box that locks securely, so I don't lose them Stay tuned if you like 😉 8
Neddy Posted July 17, 2024 Posted July 17, 2024 I refer to my earlier comments re. micro-engineering! 1
CrazyCrank Posted July 20, 2024 Author Posted July 20, 2024 I'm not yet mentally ready to start painting the bodywork., so I work on the engine parts and on the tubular chassis. The radiator of this car, (which is in reality two, as on the 300 SL: a water cooling radiator and an oil cooling radiator, attached to each other), consist in rather basic 2 parts in the REVELL kit, very badly molded and not detailed. It has only one hole on the middle of the top, for housing the top water cooling line hose, and nothing for the oil hoses ! Compare with the real thing: Plus: the lower part of this radiators is molded in the tubular chassis ! I haven't modified this last thing, but, rather to try to improve the kit part with mesh, holes, etc., I've decided to 3D design it, removing all the central part, which is made of grill/mesh, that I'll add later. I've obviously thoroughly studied the ref. photographs and added all the little things that exist on the real radiator ! - 2 holes on the top, one more for the top water cooling line and one for the top oil cooling line - 2 brackets on the top for the retaining bars of the radiator. - I've also designed a groove on the front and rear faces of the 2 radiators, which ill allow later to retain the pieces of mesh I'll add on this complex part. Hereunder my drawings And the result of the 3D printing I've purchase a lot of different meshes con AliExpress, and this one is my first choice for this radiator, not for the aesthetic aspect (you can easily find better) but for its very low mesh size (120) and its transparency I'd already purchased thinner mesh (180 if I remember correctly) on Amazon.co.uk, but it's less transparent: Well, I'm not in a hurry, and have all my time to think about it 😎 See you later, guys 6
keefr22 Posted July 21, 2024 Posted July 21, 2024 Only just caught up with your last three updates -more excellent progress, and I think the finished models will be as close to the real cars as it will be possible to get! Great work! Keith 1
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