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Posted
On 1/11/2024 at 10:38 AM, Neddy said:

There's just no stopping you, is there? :coolio:

No, indeed, @Neddy 🤭

Posted

Morning all 🙂

 

"Sun day, fun day", says the slogan, so I don't know about you, but here it's been raining since yesterday 🙄

 

 

My BMW is almost finished and I have a lot of downtime between the different stages of making the soft-top cover, so I've decided to work a bit on the 300SLR Uhlenhaut !

 

If you have read the previous posts in this thread, you already know that I've cut off the boot lid, in order to make it openable, to make visible the gas tank, the spare wheels, a small part of the tubular chassis, and different organs such as the primary fuel pump

 

53792774067_4788b6cf2a_z.jpg

 

I've fabricated  a ledge on the boot aperture, in order to retain the lid when it's closed

 

First I made a paper template, which I glued on the plastic board (0,3 mm thick)

 

53794128865_6f2b730be3_z.jpg   53792774182_2a7387141a_z.jpg

 

53793718076_d38f9167cd_z.jpg   53794027199_981d24956d_z.jpg

 

53794128815_e531ef4022_z.jpg  53793718081_4d1a72c4f3_z.jpg

 

53794027249_38bbb1a036_z.jpg  53792774202_a294085f71_z.jpg

 

53794661775_92db120607_z.jpg   53793717626_cb4deb3768_z.jpg

 

I've removed by sanding the Mercedes Benz Star, the inscriptons "300 SLR" and "D" of the boot lid, because I'll re-made them with 3D printing, as I did for Stirling Moss's 300 SLR Mille Miglia

 

53794026849_dfe2e24760_z.jpg

 

I've begun to fabricate the boot lid hinges, using  1.0 x 0.5 mm brass strips, and 1.3/1,0 brass tube, assembled by soldering 

 

53794249451_33d94a3030_z.jpg   53794468608_ef2faf026d_z.jpg

 

And, on the underside of the body, at boot level, I've marked with a red marker the area that will be occupied by the rear deck of the passenger compartment, just to remind myself that I could only use the remaining space, actually almost nothing, to install the hinge mechanism.
It's ridiculously small, but my drawings and measurements show that it can be done.

 

53794661800_69047e8b35_z.jpg

 

You'll see later 😉

 

I've fabricated and installed reinforcement panels on the lower face of the boot lid

 

53794661840_ca0208e7e4_z.jpg

 

I't's not  very visible, but I've filled the 2 gaps on the junctions between the two parts with Tamiya Light curing putty, and sanded it smooth.

 

I've worked several hours on the bodywork to remove the  moulding lines, some injection moulding marks, a loooooot of flash, and I've thinned the plastic at wheel arches level.

 

No photos there !

 

I've re-opened the louvres in the ventilation grille in front of the windscreen, which were almost all clogged.

 

53792773812_d0e4c530dc_z.jpg

 

I've also opened the two louvres situated at the rear of the roof, which allow to evacuate the heat in the cabin.(I already did the same job on my two Mercedes Benz 300 SL)

 

53794128675_6c141e5d6b_z.jpg

 

I've cut off the Inspection hatch panel situated on the right front fender, and fabricated a ledge on its aperture, in order to maintain it when it's in place

 

53794128770_f153a71870_z.jpg   53794128755_23bb86fa7c_z.jpg

 

53794027059_6c094b1b12_z.jpg   53792773927_73cb2e1ee6_z.jpg

 

53792773882_b3247af16e_z.jpg   53794027124_5387178dab_z.jpg

 

I'll likely use small magnets to attach the panel to the body

 

I've cleaned, improved and glued in place the engine compartment air outlet vents, situated on the front fenders

 

53793936123_c19071c4c4_z.jpg   53793936083_8ea9925795_z.jpg

 

And drilled on them the holes which are visible on all reference photos....Actually, I don't even know what they're used for ! If anybody knows?....

 

I've drilled a 1 mm hole on the body, under the chrome horizontal ornament placed under the right door, s on the real car

 

53793717636_30a9542f2c_z.jpg

 

In fact, I don't know what this hole is for either

 

I've noticed  that, as usual on Revell car kits, the bonnet is a bit twisted and do not close correctly,. 

It bulges slightly, revealing a gap between its edge and the edge of the bonnet opening.

 

I intended to fix this issue, sinking the bonnet in warm water and pressing it,  and it worked, but only  partially .

After  several tries, I've stopped doing that, for fear of weakening the part, or worst, breaking it.

But I'll tried another method later.

 

I've also noticed it is the same problem with the doors, but it seems that the defect disappear when the inside door panel is attached to it...I've to check that another time :)

 

I'm going to repeat myself again (some mischievous minds will say I'm rambling), but this REVELL kit is of very poor build quality, both in terms of the quality of the plastic used (quite soft and flexible for certain parts, like the tubular chassis, or on the contrary very brittle), and the quality of the moulding.
In fact, it was the REVELL standard in the 1990s.
Strangely enough, this is no longer the case for their Mercedes SLS AMG kit, which dates from 2010 and was sold, in my case, in the same package as the Mercedes 300 SLR Uhlenhaut.
One would have thought that REVELL would have made the effort to remake a more recent and improved moulding for this one!

After the right-hand door slipped out of my hand and fell 60 cm onto the parquet floor, I was unpleasantly surprised to find the front pillar of the window broken.
I've repaired it, but it's still very fragile, because the plastic at this point is very thin (0.8 mm max).

 

So there's still a lot of work to be done to prepare the bodywork for painting.🙄

  • Like 11
Posted

Amazing craftsmanship as usual on the boot lid and aperture(s).  I feel your pain regarding Revell's parts quality - the more I work on Tweedy Pie the worse things get.  Nothing fits or aligns correctly at all!

  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Evening gentlemen :)

 

Still working on the bodywork, a little bit of progress today.

 

I've finished cleaning , filling the gaps and surface irregularities, and finally sanding the bodywork, bonnet and boot lid.

The bonnet was a bit distorted, and I've managed to almost entirely fix this, heating the plastic in warm water and bending it.

It's not perfect, but far better than before.

 

I've also finished to fabricate the boot lid hinges, which I've installed on the body, but obviously not yet attached to the lid, because nothing's painted !

 

53813883319_0404ed304b_c.jpg   53812612527_4870a93c04_c.jpg

 

53812622377_69dc2c694b_c.jpg   53813874049_74c4df9982_c.jpg

 

53812622412_8d8017d5f6_c.jpg   53813977020_2d5886efa1_c.jpg

 

53813789878_8b2e970c90_c.jpg   53813780778_59306b3eda_c.jpg

 

53813986110_78aa4cb971_c.jpg   53813883389_a3510421a8_c.jpg

 

Once the hinges have been definitively fixed to the boot lid, it will unfortunately not be possible to open it completely, as the front edge will hit the bodywork about halfway.
I've tried to solve the problem by making several types of hinges and testing them, but to no avail.
The problem is that there's very little space to fit these hinges, which have to be aligned, and have their axes of rotation perfectly horizontal.
However, in the only places where I can fit them, the body is curved, and so, since the axes have to be horizontal, the inner ends of the two hinges are quite far from the edge of the boot. And it's exactly this arrangement that means that when opening the boot, the front edge of the lid gets too close to the body, limiting the opening.
I could have made a system that would allow full opening, but then the hinge pins would never have been positioned where they are on a real car, and that would have been visually shocking.
Modelling at this scale is subject to many compromises, and you have to make choices, sometimes frustrating ones, like here!

 

At last, I've fabricated the boot lid retaining system , which is a compass on the real car


To make this, I've 3D designed and printed the mounting plates which go under the trunk aperture on the front side and on the trunk lid underside on the rear.
And I've scratched the 2 branches of the compass, using 1.0 mm wide, 0,4 lmm thick Nickel-silver strips.
I've cut the 2 needed lengths and drilled 0.4 mm holes at each ends.
The branches are linked to each other with a Nickel-Chrome 0.4 mm rod, and hinged with the mounting plates with the same kind of rods.

 

I took inspiration of the two photos below. The first one is the opened boot of the real car, and the second is the interpretation of CMC 1/18 Mercedes Benz 300 SLR

 

53813881413_f8afeb5802_c.jpg   53813887618_a405e3b841_c.jpg

 

Hereunder my building process:

 

I 3D designed and printed the mounting plates, the same for the lid and for the boot aperture

 

53814094255_562a517a01_c.jpg   53813985910_0eba034065_c.jpg

 

53812612097_6e6877643b_c.jpg

 

I fabricated the 2 branches of the compass and linked them with a .4 mm rod

 

53813547626_4e8c2f9e04_c.jpg

 

And then, I articulated the branches with two 3D printed mounting plates:

 

53813538246_4e51eb66d5_c.jpg   53813977040_38ceaab9c3_c.jpg

 

53813976845_77c03ebc8d_c.jpg   53813882734_c91fcc364d_c.jpg

 

53813538621_d7f575ef3f_c.jpg   53813882979_e96bf20379_c.jpg

 

53813873924_31ce10995c_c.jpg

 

I also decided to modify the bodywork a bit more:


Indeed, on the REVELL kit part, the area where you normally fit the front lights is blocked, instead of being opened in order to make room for the lights shell!

Worse, the parts supplied in the kit to represent the front lights, is not a clear part but a chromed part !
So, I've drilled and cleaned this area, and I'll make a whole light, with its shell and its glass, which I'll fabricate with UV resin

 

53813547076_17423db442_c.jpg   53813547141_82ee2b514a_c.jpg

 

53812612512_2416e63019_c.jpg   53812622037_b21b281898_c.jpg

 

Now, the bodywork's parts are ready to receive their first layer of grey primer/filler, what will allow to track the defaults and to fix them.

 

Stay tuned if you like 😉

 

 

 

 

  • Like 14
Posted

I just love following your builds, apart from the craftsmanship the sheer inventiveness amazes me.  Great work with the hinges and boot stay, now how about the boot lock mechanism? :laugh:

  • Thanks 1
Posted
10 minutes ago, Neddy said:

I just love following your builds, apart from the craftsmanship the sheer inventiveness amazes me.  Great work with the hinges and boot stay, now how about the boot lock mechanism? :laugh:

 

I'm throwing in the towel !

 

it would be rather difficult no represent it the right way, not theoretically but technically at this scale.

And furthermore because there is another difficulty the handle of the boot lock mechanism is on this car the letter "D" (for Deutschland)

But I could consider to make a moving "D" to simulate a working handle :)

 

  • Like 2
Posted
11 hours ago, CrazyCrank said:

Stay tuned if you like 😉

 

I'd like to !

 

Marvellous micro engineering you're doing here, great to watch even if way above my kit assembling 'skills' ! :)

 

Keith

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Afternoon guys :)

 

Taking advantage of the good weather here, I've sprayed the first layer of grey primer over the bonnet, the hood and the bodyshell.
Great outcome, and It already allowed me to notice some  minor defects which will be easy to fix.

I've not primed the doors which need a little work before.

 

53814940808_f58db662e8_c.jpg   53814940818_f2d2058c10_c.jpg

 

53813776617_701743203b_c.jpg   53815036674_447508ddc6_c.jpg

 

 

The chassis has been cleaned and prepared.
I've also improved it, adding the traction arms on the spindles and suspensions cradle.
They are made of 0.6 mm aluminium tube which pass through holes I drilled in the two transversal structs of the middle of the chassis.
At last, I've added on the front stand, (which will receive later the top suspension triangles and the steering box) , two curved struts which retain it firmly on the chassis.

Later on, these structs will be completed by two bars which connect on the rear top of the radiators, maintaining them vertical.

 

53814948053_340c10ed34_c.jpg   53814704576_763c40d8ae_c.jpg

 

53815147590_6690183552_c.jpg

 

53814704516_92fdc7d249_c.jpg   53814948038_4203fcbc41_c.jpg

 

And then, the chassis has been primed as well.

 

53814944438_54c2b825be_c.jpg

 

That's all for now, folks :)

 

  • Like 6
Posted

Great internal engineering! There's something so satisfying about seeing a kit get that grey primer and it's even more special with your craftsmanship.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
6 hours ago, CrazyCrank said:

 

I'm throwing in the towel !

 

it would be rather difficult no represent it the right way, not theoretically but technically at this scale.

And furthermore because there is another difficulty the handle of the boot lock mechanism is on this car the letter "D" (for Deutschland)

But I could consider to make a moving "D" to simulate a working handle :)

 

Me and my mouth... 🤐

  • Haha 1
Posted
7 hours ago, othertales said:

Great internal engineering! There's something so satisfying about seeing a kit get that grey primer and it's even more special with your craftsmanship.

Thank you so much for this nice compliment :)

You're absolutely right about the grey primer step 😎

  • Like 1
Posted

Looking really good already. Fantastic work in getting the boot opening, even if it's turning out not to be posisble to get it to play ball.

 

Just a thought on the bonnet being a little warped - is there scope to use some 1mm magnets to pull it straight when closed, or is that going to be a little too much?

  • Thanks 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Spiny said:

Looking really good already. Fantastic work in getting the boot opening, even if it's turning out not to be posisble to get it to play ball.

 

Just a thought on the bonnet being a little warped - is there scope to use some 1mm magnets to pull it straight when closed, or is that going to be a little too much?

 

Thanks Spiny.

To answer you question: no, unfortunately. There is room to use them but they won't be strong enough to bend the bonnet

  • Sad 1
Posted

Evening chaps :)


The Vallejo grey primer, in cans, doesn't dry quickly and 24 hours after spraying it, it is always a bit tacky !

SO, while it is drying,  I've switched my interest on the dashboard building.


The kit's dash is very basic and disappointing:
- the different knobs, buttons and pull tabs are just represented by a small plastic relief
- And no difference between the pull tabs, the joystick which controls the direction indicators, or the ignition key slot !
- The dials are engraved, as if there was no decals to improve the realism. 
- The decals are too large and they incorporate a silvered peripheral crown, which is supposed to cover the bezels which are already engraved on the dash arounds the dias

 

In brief, it's terrible ! look, if you're brave enough 🤣

 

53817970686_f41acc107f_c.jpg

 

As I do love improving the kits and detailing them, I've made a bit of surgery:
- First, I cut out all the plastic stuffs which represent the knobs etc.
- And I drilled 0.5 mm on the scars, in order to place here later, scratched and/or 3D printed  replacement parts.
- Then I spent some hours in my garage, turning on the lathe new bezels, in a 8.0 mm aluminum bar. The bezels are 5.0 / 4.0 mm for the 2 larger, and 2.6/ 2.0 mm for the 3 others. I fabricated a lot of them, api just never know !
- I drilled and filed the 5 dials, bezels included, to get the same dimensions, in order to be able to fit easily, later on, the aluminium bezels into the holes.

- The decals will be placed later on a plastic plate, that I'll install behind the dash (in fact, in front of it), and will be visible through the holes I've drilled
- And a glass will be fabricated for each of the 5 dials, probably using disks of transparent thin plastic

 

53818302254_1a8e62f787_c.jpg   53818408255_90e924b75e_c.jpg

 

53817042012_5109536eb0_c.jpg   53818213218_84b966eacd_c.jpg


53817042167_47f9ff834a_c.jpg   53817042132_7755293e19_c.jpg

 

 53818213123_b7fee2d08c_c.jpg

 

This miserable job took me over 8 hours, but it was worth the efforts 😲

  • Like 9
Posted

Good to see another of your builds gathering pace. Thanks for taking the time to explain all of your techniques, it's a great education from a technical perspective. Just shows what can be achieved with mainstream kits, assuming the small matter of thousands of hours and the necessary skills of course...

 

What do you do with all of your finished builds? They should be on display somewhere. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
8 hours ago, Anteater said:

Good to see another of your builds gathering pace. Thanks for taking the time to explain all of your techniques, it's a great education from a technical perspective. Just shows what can be achieved with mainstream kits, assuming the small matter of thousands of hours and the necessary skills of course...

 

What do you do with all of your finished builds? They should be on display somewhere. 

 

 

Thanks a lot, Anteater, for your great compliment, much appreciated 😎

 

All my finished builds (7 at the moment) take place in quality individual showcases (each one cost about the price of the kit) and the showcases are displayed in my living room, until I find a better place, or rather a large display case, incorporating lighting etc., to show off my scale models better

 

  • Like 2
Posted

Afternoon, chaps :)

 

I've slightly enhanced and modified the dash, after I look again at the reference photos.

 

First, you've to know that on the 3 Coupé Uhlenhaut, at least one has its upholstery blue, and this is this one, which is exhibited in Mercedes Benz Museum in Stuttgart, I'm intending to reproduce.
The goal is to display side by side the SLR n° 722 Mille Miglia and the Coupé Uhlenhaut, with the same upholstery.
The decals REVELL supplies with this kit allow to cover the seats with the famous tartan fabric, but in  RED, when I ant it BLUE !
So, I've ordered a set of 300 SLR Mille Millie decals at Indycals.net, which will do the job !

 

On this basis, I had to modify the dash, because, on the Coupé Uhlenhaut with the red tartan fabric, there is, as on the REVELL kit, between the dials, 2 warning lights, and on either side of the large dials, 2 pull tabs.

BUT, on the "blue upholstery" Coupé Uhlenhaut, there's only 1 pull tab in this area, and its places at the right of the large right dial.

 

So, I've had to fill the hole I drilled on the left of the left large dial, and to re-drill 0.8 mm the 2 holes for the warning lights

 

53819461384_192912346c_c.jpg

 

Then, as there is, between the top of the large dials, another small warning light, I drilled a 0.5 mm hole at this place, and the warning light will labe made with a short section of 0.5 mm brass tube, nickel plated, and a droplet of Tamiya red clear in the hole of the tube.

 

53818209912_cc722aa627_c.jpg

 

Then, I've planed to add another pull tab, placed under the lower edge of the dash, at the left small dial level.

This pull tab exist on the 3 Coupé Uhlenhaut.

 

53819330468_1f9d39bb8e_c.jpg

 

So, I've fabricated the mounting plate which hold the pull tab.

I've used a 1,0 mm square rod of styrene, that I've drilled 0.3 mm at an end, hen I've sanded this end to reduce its width from 1.0 to about 0.7 mm, and I've cut this end at 1.2 mm.

And I've stuck this plastic stuff at the right place.

Later, I'll fabricate the pull tab with 0.3 mm steel rod and a 3D printed knob .

 

53819097666_e7c4e0ed98_c.jpg   53819435434_8b7c441598_c.jpg

 

53819097711_a96906fd9d_c.jpg   53819435374_8d0a1d8c56_c.jpg

 

At last, I've worked on the dashboard "cap":

I've re-scribed the engraving of the glove box on the right of the cap.

And fabricated the small relief at the middle of the aperture edge of the glove box, which acts as a handle: I made it with a droplet of transparent nail UV resin.

Once painted, it will do the job !

 

53819540905_99e98383df_c.jpg

 

The two parts of the dash are now ready to be primed :)

 

See you soon or much more later 😉

 

 

 

  • Like 7
Posted

That's some very neat work on a pretty small part - it's going to look brilliant when finished!

 

Keith

  • Thanks 1
Posted
12 minutes ago, keefr22 said:

That's some very neat work on a pretty small part - it's going to look brilliant when finished!

 

Keith

Thank you so much Keefr22.

Fingers crossed for the final result 🤞

  • Like 1
Posted

Evening gentlemen , sorry to disturb you during the dinner 🙏

 

I was about priming the two parts of the dash, when I noticed a detail that I wasn't aware before !

 

It's a chrome plated bead that follows the contours of the dash cap, as you can see on the photos below:

 

53820277900_66db0eb90a_c.jpg   53820277935_1e070d516e_c.jpg

 

53820277910_09d9819aef_c.jpg

 

I decided to reproduce it, of course !

My first idea was to use 0,4 mm Nickel-chrome rod, which is rather flexible, and very shiny, but the curvatures of the dash cap were difficult to follow and I was unable to get a satisfactory outcome.

It's a shame, because, once the dash is painted and cleared, it would have been very easy to scratch the bead to remove the paint and reveal the chrome aspect.

 

Consequently I opted for semi-rigid 0.35mm cable, which is easy to bend and glue with cyanoacrylate glue. Once the dashboard has been painted, you'll need to touch it up carefully with Molotov Liquid Chrome, for example.

 

53818461962_1dc75a0a36_c.jpg   53819628088_9be4e42795_c.jpg

 

53819628098_607815ffee_c.jpg

 

Then, I primed with Vallejo grey primer/filler the two parts, in order to reveal the potential defects, and I got that:

 

53819719654_0c65d20d8b_c.jpg   53819380426_3d68bdb727_c.jpg

 

Which showed me that I did a little mistake, at both ends of the chromed bead, which, normally, must follow the contours of the dash cap, but also create a kind of seal between the dash cap and the dash per se.

So I fixed that, cleaned and sanded the dash cap,  and sprayed another coat of primer on it.

 

53820082243_97658673a1_c.jpg

 

There's now a thorough and deep cleaning to do on the two parts, before painting them !

 

See you later :)

 

  • Like 8
Posted

Afternoon, chaps :)

 

A bit of progress today

 

First,my (mis)adventures with the bonnet hinge:


REVELL supplies two parts which, when assembled, will grip the bonnet's rotation shaft, moulded with it: a chrome grille, and a grey plastic hinge part, which is glued to the rear of the grill

 

53821784884_577ae6b7d6_z.jpg

Based on the experience of another modeler friend of mine, who had problems with the engine bonnet hinge, I did a blank assembly and indeed, when you fit at the rear of the grill the part that will hold the bonnet rotation axis from the rear, as indicated in the assembly instructions, and you place the whole thing on the bodyshell, the bonnet moves backwards, and a gap appears at the front, at the opening on the bodyshell.

The problem was that the rear of the chrome grille, which receives the front of the bonnet axle, has a quarter-moon-shaped groove for this purpose, but it's not deep enough, and also that the part that grips the axle from the rear, once glued to the rear of the grille, also has a rounded groove, but it's not deep enough either.
So I did a bit of surgery, and everything improved.


53821694213_f6f9338e55_z.jpg



The worst part was when I opened the bonnet, the rear of which deviated to the right as I lifted it.
After checking, the 2 centring pins on the rear of the grille, which are used to fix the aforementioned hinge part, were not aligned vertically.
As a result, the rotation was on a non-horizontal axis.

 

53821448621_8cf5c47a9a_z.jpg

 

You can see on this photo that the horizontal part of the grey piece is a bit higher on the right than on the left.

 

So I un-glued the two pieces, cut off the top centring pin, re-glued the grille and hinge piece together, aligning them correctly, to get perfectly horizontal  the part of this latter which enclose the bonnet axle.
And during subsequent tests, everything went back to normal.


Small illustration: 

 


 

Sorry for the somewhat convoluted explanations, but they're interesting for those of you who own this kit and intend to assemble it one day!


Once that was done, I looked at that chrome grille, full of unsightly flash, moulding lines and so on. 
And I scratched all that off before de-chroming it later with 'Destop'.


But it also has another problem, which is that the spaces between the 3 branches of the Mercedes star, instead of being free as on the real thing, are clogged !

 

53821694238_b3f2d88117_z.jpg   53821784984_3fb199667e_z.jpg
   

This is understandable, as the bonnet hinge system devised by REVELL includes a part to be glued precisely to the rear of the grille, right in the area of the star!
The company's "ingenious" designers must have thought that the bond would be too weak, so they designed a solid area!


IT'S NOT BEAUTIFUL and they could have done better!


After studying the gizmo, I decided that I could carry out a surgical operation to free it up, and although it took me a few hours because the grille is delicate and I didn't want to damage it, I succeeded!
And I can assure you that the grey part, although I amputated several small parts during the operation, still fits very well on the back of the grille.

 

53821888245_e34f165fe1_z.jpg   53821693933_dfb457cc3e_z.jpg

 

53821694218_6004284dc5_z.jpg   53821694113_459b40e483_z.jpg

 

53821785014_745d4c610d_z.jpg

 

I still have  to enhance this part, cleaning it thoroughly after I remove the chromeI

 


Second: making a system to retain the inspection panel on the vertical side of the right front fender

 

I dug two grooves on the top and bottom edges inside the panel, 0.5-0.6 mm depth, and I've glued in the grooves two short sections of 0.4 mm steel  wire.

Then I've glued micro magnets on the inside of the bodywork, on top and bottom edges of the ledge I made for the aperture....and that's it, it works !

The panel don't fall down when I incline the bodywork on its side (Fortunately, it was my purpose :) )

 

53821773151_47b6d98728_z.jpg  53822210700_7c62af4451_z.jpg

 

53822210695_cef4b3c1c9_z.jpg  53821773201_dcde2738e6_z.jpg

 

53821773206_206ebe647c_c.jpg

 

 

I still have to fill the grooves with putty, to hide the steel wires and to glue more  firmly the magnets, my next job tonight :)

 

Stay tuned if you like 😎

  • Like 7
Posted

Great work on the bonnet hinge (works perfectly) and especially on the grille.  That must have needed some nerve and a VERY steady hand.

  • Thanks 1
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7 hours ago, Neddy said:

Great work on the bonnet hinge (works perfectly) and especially on the grille.  That must have needed some nerve and a VERY steady hand.

Thank you very much @Neddy , glad you appreciate my (hard) work 😎

I wasn't excessively anxious  during this surgery on the grille, but VERY careful and delicate.

I was lucky, because for once, my iatrogenic tremor hadn't shown up; otherwise, I would have postponed the operation. 🙄

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