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Avro Vulcan B.2


Lord Riot

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I’m not sure about the shade grey, as mine looks a bit dark. However there are quite a few shades in various photos of Vulcans, some so pale they look almost light aircraft grey rather than medium sea grey. The photo of XL317 looks a bit closer, but as in the instructions still lighter than mine.
 

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436-B8-A97-0949-4-BBC-B091-1-CA692427127
 

It’s definitely medium sea grey in the can I used.

 

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E4-FA8-A5-C-46-EB-4-CC8-99-AB-661191-D74

 

Should I respray over the grey with a paler shade of grey? Any suggestions as to which grey I should use? @Adam Poultney, Anyone? …

 

 

Although, my intended subject does look a bit more like mine here. Maybe they faded?

 

06-CC0-F07-EA2-A-41-D8-A2-B8-EB7-AD077-A

 

 

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I’ve just ordered this, which once sprayed over the existing grey will hopefully be closer. I don’t use an airbrush so Hataka paints won’t work for me unfortunately. 
 

D372-DEF8-9-A5-C-4-ECB-8-F93-9-C983-E3-C

 

 

 

 

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I'd have gone with the tamiya can if you want to use a can. I've got it but not tried it yet, their airbrush version was alright.

You'd have been OK with hataka blue line, brushable acrylics

Edited by Adam Poultney
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Personally I don't think much of the green on that photo with the lighter grey so I wouldn't be using it as a good reproduction of the actual colour. Really the only reliable source is a good colour chip. Photos are subject to so many variables.

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Having decided to respray a paler shade of grey, I’ve gently sanded down the first coat and will treat it as a kind of primer. It needed that anyway as the finish was slightly grainy in parts, especially around the intakes. 
 

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While I wait for another can of pale grey to be delivered I masked and fitted the canopy.

 

BE42-E811-119-E-4-CC8-BC24-93-E0-F48-E30

 

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With only a limited window of opportunity weatherwise to get some spraying done, a root through my paint store yielded this,which to me looks pretty close to the light grey of an early 70’s Vulcan. I tested a bit on a spare bomb bay. Big contrast to the previous ‘medium sea grey’ which was clearly too dark. AS-26 on left, sprayed over MSG.

 

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Looks good enough to me. So without further ado, onto the respray …

 

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Damn. Although the colour looks good, there are yet more issues. I’ll leave it to dry then it’ll be more gentle sanding. Fortunately the bubbling is mainly over areas that will be green, so it will be recoverable. It has to be!
 

I’ll leave it to dry then get sanding ready for another respray. Does anyone know what causes this? It’s not the first time I’ve had this with Tamiya rattle cans.

 

F8-F63-DA1-D1-CE-4716-B6-C6-F2-E5-E07166

 

 

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After some sanding and a respray the bubbling has gone, I’m just left with a couple of areas that need a bit more smoothing down. 
 

Nose section is ok now.

 

A3-E470-FC-B4-BF-42-DB-B5-A5-534214-F3-B

 

More work needed on the wings, but disaster averted I think. A bit more sanding, then one more grey spray and then the green and hopefully it won’t be too noticeable. Probably need to give those ailerons a good rub again though!
 

F683-F002-B7-DE-4191-BC50-5-BAB09095-BAB

 

And the flaps on the starboard wing.
 

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On the plus side, it’s reducing those deep panel lines!

 

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After much sanding and smoothing and re sprays, I finally think this will do for the grey now. It’s certainly paler than the supposed medium sea grey I used first. It’ll probably look lighter still once the dark green is added.

 

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More importantly I think I’ve got it back looking smooth again where the paint had bubbled.

 

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@Adam Poultney does this grey look accurate enough to you? Or still too dark?

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That was a lot of worming! Next big job will be bagging up the grey areas before spraying the gloss dark green. I’ll test the green out on spare plastic over the grey first, don’t want any more bubbling!
 

9526-FA35-8-D5-D-4-A00-A643-A69528223-EC

 

Remembered to square off part of the camo pattern on the nose.

 

AFD7-CD97-05-CA-433-B-9-A0-C-E68722-A77-

 

 

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58-A491-E9-1-A95-4-E09-B7-E4-A0-F1-C8-FC

 

Green areas marked up. Cutting those out took a while but done now and sprayed green. It was getting dark and seemed about to rain yet again so no time for photos after this stage I’m afraid! Suffice to say it’s now sat with the green drying in the shed.

 

 

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Dammit. Cracking again. I’m sure it’s that original grey spray that’s causing this.

 

Another rub down yet again and respray. If it still looks a mess it’s either the shelf of doom or soak it in IPA alcohol, remove all the paint and try again from the beginning. 
 

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9-F4-E39-AD-5-A0-E-48-E3-A184-258-A3854-

 

 

 

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On 15/11/2022 at 10:17, Lord Riot said:

On the plus side, it’s reducing those deep panel lines!

An unexpected bonus! A real shame about the bubbling. To help prevent this, once rubbed back apply multiple very light coats of paint. If it can dry rapidly, it makes it harder to react with the paint beneath it. Not foolproof, but might work?

 

That masking looks excellent.👍

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Rubbed back, again. And resprayed. Last chance before either finishing as it is and trying to sell it, or consignment to the shelf of doom in the loft.

 

8-BF1-B024-DBD4-486-B-8-C2-B-B63863-E382

 

After respray. 
 

C95-EDF87-1-BF9-44-D0-9794-496156-CBCF56

 

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Nope. Still a mess. The paint is all too thick which was probably the issue to begin with, although it would have helped if the so called medium sea grey was actually that colour.

 

So it’s basically ruined and an expensive lesson learned. Test the colour first. I’d assumed it would dry paler, but it didn’t, hence the coat of other grey, which caused the bubbling. The green was no better. I’m soaking it in IPA as one last resort before binning off a £70 kit and god knows how much spray paint.

 

The most disappointing thing is I could have used my Tamiya can from the start as it looks the right colour, instead of buying the medium sea grey.

 

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C2598-ED2-17-D3-499-E-B1-F4-961-E2-E18-D

 

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

I’m attempting to get rid of all the upper surface paint so I can start again with the correct shade of grey and no blistering. It’s just too expensive a kit to abandon that easily.

 

After spraying with cleaning alcohol a few times it’s been sat in the garage for about a month. The alcohol didn’t dissolve the paint at all, perhaps it needed to be submerged, but I want to try and keep the white undersides so I couldn’t do that.

 

Anyway, today I started to sand it down with a little plug-in sander, I think it’s designed for nail care but my wife doesn’t need this one so it’s now a modelling tool. It’s certainly  made an impact on the paint, albeit slowly, but enough to think if I persevere it may just work.

 

After an hour or so of sanding I then wiped it over with white spirit. I’ll wipe it over again tomorrow and sand it whilst wet, see if it works. There are definitely some areas where it looks like it’s slowly working. My main worry is the sander might leave an uneven surface. If that does happen then I’ve no option but to waste a £70 kit. An expensive lesson about spray paint quality I guess. I’ll give it a rub with a finer grain sander after if I can get the paint off.

 

If anyone has any other ideas to salvage this please let me know! …
 

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50 minutes ago, Back in the Saddle said:

I’d be tempted to let it soak in a bath of your preferred solvent, strip in back to bare plastic everywhere and start painting all over again. That will prevent any new paint reacting with the older paint and give you a blank canvas to work upon.👍

Spot on advice that....

 

My preferred is Mr Muscle oven cleaner, the Vulcan lends itself to standing on it's tail, wrap it in a black bin bag and leave it overnight but don't let it dry !!!

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I have stripped paint very easily with Mr Levelling Thinner, it didn't eat into the plastic at all. Avoid at all costs using Tamiya Lacquer Thinner. I tried that too and it destroyed the plastic. 

 

Don't bin it yet, the situation is recoverable. Best of luck.

 

Richie

 

 

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