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AdrianMF’s Airfix P-38Hs - Beautiful Lass finished


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Drilled some holes in the front gear door to add some busy detail:

F23-F5443-A0-D7-489-C-BEB9-102-BBDB9973-

 

And a first coat of AK Neutral Grey:

366-B6-D1-E-048-F-4-A86-A386-FB825-DBC23

 

I've forgotten to add the little intakes under the wings and I don’t know if I should add the drop tanks or not.

 

Neutral Grey looks a little darker than I was expecting, but then (a) I’ve been staring a light plastic so far and (b) I have no idea how dark it should be!

 

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Great detail Adrian,

 

after flicking through your thread I did open the radiator vents up at the rear.then I took the saw to one of left boom and cut it off 🤣.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Back on the case after what seems like an age. Looking in photos of my colour schemes in more detail, I realise I was a bit over-zealous in sanding down and filling the ammo hatch lines, so I’ve traced out the very faint lines prior to a re-scribe:

3-D07-BB5-B-39-F0-4-A8-D-866-C-61-FB20-B
 

I wish my filling was always this good.🙄

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There's not a lot of difference between the primer & the neutral grey, I hope you can remember which is which. Plenty of time to finish these two I'd say :)

 

James

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It's a subtle difference, but it's there.

 

14 hours ago, Dave Slowbuild said:

How do you dry brush acrylics, they dry out so fast on a pallet?

I can't vouch for Adrian's method, but I dip my brush into the pot rather than using a pallet. I just wipe the excess off on some kitchen roll.

 

James

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14 hours ago, Dave Slowbuild said:

dry brush acrylics

My lighter neutral grey was 5 drops of NG + 2 drops of Hu64. When I mixed them all up I added a drop of water and whooshed them into a blob next to the rim of the palette so that it wasn't just a thin layer of paint. Then each time I dipped the tip of my flat brush into the blob and brushed it out a couple of times on the flat of the palette to keep the paint sparse. And basically worked quickly with a light touch. I think I refreshed the brush with a teeny dip in the water twice during the whole process.

 

Harder to explain than do!

 

Regards,

Adrian

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I've also recently swapped my dry brush over to the smaller Army Painter Wargamer dry brush. I'd been using a couple of brands of stubbier/squarer & stuffer dry brushes, but I've found the softer bristles and the angle on the Army Painter brush far nice for my style. Obviously it's all subjective, so your mileage may vary :)

 

James

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21 hours ago, Dave Slowbuild said:

How do you dry brush acrylics, they dry out so fast on a pallet?

Personally I tend to dip the tip of my brush into whatever thinning agent I'm using. Then dip into the paint, it keeps the paint workable while using it. This works with whatever paint you use. It also has the benefit of increasing drying time thus allowing for less brushstrokes. The paint settles as it dries and the brush strokes tend to go away as it dries.

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28 minutes ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

The paint settles as it dries and the brush strokes tend to go away as it dries.


Interesting…. Do you use this method for highlighting details, or for varying the tone of large areas as Adrian was doing?

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38 minutes ago, Dave Slowbuild said:


Interesting…. Do you use this method for highlighting details, or for varying the tone of large areas as Adrian was doing?

I have done it for both, sometimes I get better  results sometimes worse. Im always trying to get better with a brush. I still mostly use my airbrushes but always trying new things. 

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Been having a bit of a Major Mojo deficit on these two, because I’ve realised I’ve got to do some corrections. After a quick diversion to throw together a V1 for my FROG Spitfire and get my Mojo back, I compiled a list of the jobs to do and picked the most annoying, starting with the canopy, which has an external rear frame  whereas the real thing has an internal strut. One down:

0-FBD2760-A124-4-DEC-91-B7-4-AB49-CF70-D

 

Both done:

536-C11-BC-5702-490-B-9662-E8-B63-ACB95-

 

I had “mildly improved” the kit radios, but I decided to chisel them all off and model proper radios by copying the excellent Tamiya builds all around:

39-E12942-EFCD-424-D-A1-DA-75018264-E920

 

Next up are the propellers; I had tried to keep the kit openings around the blades in the spinners, but after painting them up they just don’t look right, so I’m going to fill them and sand them back. After that I should be moving forwards again!

 

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That's nice work all round, Adrian, but those radios look absolutely superb! They're tiny in 1/48, so hats off to you for reproducing them from scratch in 1/72!

 

James

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More micro-progress. Gunsight:

BB6-AAB32-E825-47-D8-85-DE-DFE15-D4-DA9-

 

The gunsight and its mounting have been finagled to fit inside the canopy, and there is no room to even try to represent the armoured glass, so it’s just a nod to the real thing.

 

Propellers took a lot of filling and sanding of the two-part spinners:

D16069-BF-A3-C4-4622-9978-279-DC76-E5126

 

 

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