1/72 Nicaragua (Black) Lightning

[ModelingEdmontonian]

My Dragon/Hobby 2000 kit was waiting for me when I got home.  

 

 

These are the pieces I need, albeit it is just the fairing from the radar pod I need, not the whole thing.

 

 

Now assembled:

 

 

With the pod cut off the fairing, I have attached the three parts. The fairing needed some filler, so I stuffed it with putty and sanded flush. Then masked the cockpit to spray primer.

 

[ModelingEdmontonian]

Primed (you can now see the installed air intakes and radar pod fairing):

 

 

There are still some gaps and seams to deal with around the radiators and nacelles. I did some more work on these (sanding, super glue in the gaps, etc.) but am probably moving on and letting well enough alone. I always find gaps and seams challenging, but particularly in these spots. Next, some rattle can aluminum sprayed into the wheel wells.

 

 

I see now there is a depression on the radar pod fairing I'll want to address.

[ModelingEdmontonian]

Wheel wells stuffed with tissue...

 

 

And Tamiya rattle can semi-gloss black spraying is underway:

 

[81-er]

Definitely looking like a black Lightning now

 

James

[ModelingEdmontonian]

I realized that at least some of the Hobby 2000 kit stencils are likely appropriate on this P-38M-turned-P-38L.

 

 

Also, some of the masks might be useful, although I don't think the canopy ones will work.

 

 

I've gone ahead and stenciled the drop tanks and feel this adds interest, so will likely continue stenciling elsewhere as the feeling hits me...

 

[81-er]

That Hobby2000 set is far more comprehensive than the decals in my 1/48 Academy P-38M. The tanks look good

 

James

[ModelingEdmontonian]

3 hours ago, 81-er said:

The tanks look good

Thanks, James!

 

3 hours ago, 81-er said:

That Hobby2000 set is far more comprehensive than the decals in my 1/48 Academy P-38M. The tanks look good

I've heard the fit of the Hobby 2000 (Dragon) kit is awful, but it serving me well as a kit to cannabalize!

 

The wheel masks worked out.

 

 

After paint and a wash, here they are with one side done.

 

 

Meanwhile the a/c itself is all black now.

 

 

Next I'll unplug the wheel wells and touch the aluminum up around there.

[ModelingEdmontonian]

Wheel wells and doors are pretty much done. I'll dirty these up a little, but don't intend to do much weathering on this bird. You can see a threw on a few more stencils under the wings.

 

 

I did find this lovely picture of a P-38M which is heavily chipped and looking well-used, but I expect Nicaragua was taking good care of theirs.

 

 

I have been planning to paint the canopy by hand, but I did throw it on to block off the cockpit and get some paint around the edges. But, my liquid mask worked poorly. I'm a terrible masker. 

 

 

Pretty sure some paint thinner and a q-tip will clean that up fine, but I am still annoyed. 

[opus999]

A shame about the canopy.  I really haven't found a use for liquid mask yet -- it always seems to just make a mess with my inexperienced hands.  I have to say those stencils on the drop tanks really look sharp though!  And I also have to say an all black lightning is pretty wicked looking!

[Ratch]

Liquid mask is next to useless, much better with tape. If you don't want to mask, and have a steady hand, try a ruling pen - also known as a bow pen or draughtman's pen.

[ModelingEdmontonian]

Thinner cleaned the canopy up with little difficulty, so that was a relief. I hate cutting masks too, and I avoid masking period whenever I can. I do find liquid masking smaller areas (e.g., landing lights) works fine, but I'll think twice before using it on a canopy again.

 

Anyway, some more progress... props got a gloss coat and some stencils.

 

 

I was spraying gloss in -20 C or even colder yesterday, and 24 hours on its still a bit sticky, so definitely ended up with a fingerprint or two 🙄 But, have to keep moving, so drop tanks installed and decals all on underneath. In the end the roundels covered some of my stencils.

 

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

1 hour ago, ModelingEdmontonian said:

I do find liquid masking smaller areas (e.g., landing lights) works fine, but I'll think twice before using it on a canopy again.

Happy to hear it cleaned up, I always find two coats on canopies usually takes care of thin/non coverage areas. Sadly liquid mask doesn't dry quickly and gravity helps it run so it will pull away from high areas. Ive had issues like this myself so don't feel to bad. 

[Andwil]

1 hour ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Happy to hear it cleaned up, I always find two coats on canopies usually takes care of thin/non coverage areas. Sadly liquid mask doesn't dry quickly and gravity helps it run so it will pull away from high areas. Ive had issues like this myself so don't feel to bad. 

Frankly, I hate the stuff.  I find it hard to work with, has a short shelf life after the bottle is opened, and it stinks!

 

AW 

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

8 minutes ago, Andwil said:

Frankly, I hate the stuff.  I find it hard to work with, has a short shelf life after the bottle is opened, and it stinks!

 

AW 

Interesting I opened mine in 2004 and it still works ? Though I rarely use it preferring tape myself. I use microscale liquid mask if that helps. Too be honest I don't think it will ever dry out ? 

[ModelingEdmontonian]

1 hour ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Interesting I opened mine in 2004 and it still works ? Though I rarely use it preferring tape myself. I use microscale liquid mask if that helps. Too be honest I don't think it will ever dry out ? 

That's what I use too. No smell, and while mine is not 18 years old, it doesn't seem to be drying out. Like I said, has worked great on landing lights and such, and I have been very happy with it in that context 

[Andwil]

6 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Interesting I opened mine in 2004 and it still works ? Though I rarely use it preferring tape myself. I use microscale liquid mask if that helps. Too be honest I don't think it will ever dry out ? 

 

4 hours ago, ModelingEdmontonian said:

That's what I use too. No smell, and while mine is not 18 years old, it doesn't seem to be drying out. Like I said, has worked great on landing lights and such, and I have been very happy with it in that context 

Looks like I’ll have to track this stuff down.  I’ve used Humbrol Maskol and something by AK Interactive in the past, both turned into a kind of gooey latex after being opened (although to be fair I never used it very often) and smelled strongly of ammonia.

 

AW

[ModelingEdmontonian]

Almost all of the decals are on now.

 

 

But these fin decals . . .

 

 

. . . are going to require some cutting to fit. I'm not sure what the issue is here (i.e., are the decals wrong or is the model?), but anyway, I'm trying to think through whether I should try to cut these before or after I have them on the model. 

 

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

1 hour ago, ModelingEdmontonian said:

are going to require some cutting to fit. I'm not sure what the issue is here (i.e., are the decals wrong or is the model?), but anyway, I'm trying to think through whether I should try to cut these before or after I have them on the model. 

I would measure and cut first. Top of fin to horizontal stab, and from bottom to stab. That should get you in the zone and then its trimming. Maybe practice with paper first ? 
 

EDIT: Just found this photo, I was trying to figure out how the rudder operated over the stab. Its a tight fit but it slides over everything. 
 

So looks like you will need a wedge shaped cut in the decals. 

 

Edited December 4, 2022 by Corsairfoxfouruncle

[ModelingEdmontonian]

2 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

I would measure and cut first. Top of fin to horizontal stab, and from bottom to stab. That should get you in the zone and then its trimming. Maybe practice with paper first ? 
 

EDIT: Just found this photo, I was trying to figure out how the rudder operated over the stab. Its a tight fit but it slides over everything. 
 

So looks like you will need a wedge shaped cut in the decals. 

 

Thanks for the advice and photo! I particularly appreciated the paper suggestion. So, I began that work. I ended up with a wedge like this.

 

 

But then I realized the whole decal is way too big. 🥴

 

 

Moreover, while doing this work, somehow I pulled off the blue dot from the port boom roundel!

 

 

Can't find it anywhere... so, what are my options? I found blue dots on this decal sheet that are spares, and may be similar colour/size.

 

 

But hoping the original turns up and can be stuck back on before I resort to that solution. Feeling a bit down about it all now, between the fin decals the blue spot 😒

Edited December 4, 2022 by ModelingEdmontonian

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

I hope you find said blue dot. I tend to put the over size decal flashes like this on and trim. Another member just mentioned he used a lighter to burn the edges off. 

[ModelingEdmontonian]

1 hour ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

I hope you find said blue dot. I tend to put the over size decal flashes like this on and trim. Another member just mentioned he used a lighter to burn the edges off. 

The trimming afterwards is my plan, but burning sounds more fun! I did cut some off prior to putting on the second one, but ultimately both still need trimming. Oh, and I painted the guns. Getting there...

 

 

[81-er]

It's coming along very nicely, decal issues aside

 

As for the liquid mask, I'm on the same bottle of Maskol I've had for quite some years (it predates my return to modelling 18 months or so ago) and it's perfectly fine. I tend to use it to patch over tape where sealing could be an issue, filling in the middle of canopies after masking the glass edges, plus it's also handy as a temporary glue to hold hatches in place during paint that you can then pop out and pose open. Saves masking the opening.

 

James

[ModelingEdmontonian]

4 hours ago, 81-er said:

It's coming along very nicely, decal issues aside

Thanks, @81-er!

 

More progress.... I dirtied up the wheels wells with panel liner and a burnt umber wash.

 

 

Then I used Kristal Klear and paint to complete the ID lights.

 

 

I gave up on the blue dot, and actually used a spare from a Romanian BF 109 decal sheet. But this was a bit larger and a bit lighter blue than the original so I was a bit unhappy until I realized if I just replaced all of them with Romanian dots it would look just fine. So, that's what I've done.

 

With original dots from Aztec:

 

 

And now with Romanian BF 109 dots:

 

 

Obviously wouldn't get away with this as easily if it was RAF roundels or similar, but I think for 1950s Nicaragua there won't be too many challengers out there...

 

Still need to finish cleaning up the fin decals, that's the big task left now before a final gloss coat.

[81-er]

That's a nice save on the decals. I'm really liking how this one's turning out

 

James

[ModelingEdmontonian]

23 hours ago, 81-er said:

That's a nice save on the decals. I'm really liking how this one's turning out

 

James

Appreciate the support, James! 

 

These are the blue dots I used, by the way:

 

 

Here is where I am at with the fin decals. You can see the fit is now fairly good and they have settled well, but I definitely still have some work to do where trimming resulted in some tears. I may chock some of this up to "wear," but I think I I can do a little bit of repair with some paint.