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MFH 1/12 Ferrari F2008 Kimi Raikkonen (kerbside)


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Model Factory Hiro Multimedia 1/12 scale Formula One Ferrarri F2008

 

Its been a while since I've posted as my photos stopped showing up, I used Village photos and couldn't face uploading them all again...very disheartened. Hoping these are showing and will remain available. In time, I shall transfer old builds if it works. 

 

So I now have three MFH in the stash, and befors doing a full detail build, wanted to cut my teeth and get some resin work under my belt...

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First foray into multimedia building...wish me luck.spacer.png

 

Needed a few purchases...bought a Magnetic Tumbler to clean white metal (Vevor KT100) which is a wonderful machine, needed burnishing liquid. Not sure what etch primer to use, I had purchased Zero Paints set but saw Mr Bretland used UPol on his so figured I would try that. 

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Also picked up a couple of specific Mr Hobby colours and Zero Paints Ferrari set. 

 

So, enough waffle, step one, sellotape it together to get a look!!!!

Has to be done...😊😊

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Parts then cleaned, white metal in tumbler and resin washed in water and fairey liquid, rinsed and dried. Then parts put in stages as per instructions...ish. 

 

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Next step will be possibly gluing then etch primer, possible priming/painting  then gluing.nNot sure yet but build starts with rear end, rear suspension and wheel hubs...

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Pretty much all of this needs to be semi gloss black other then brake discs and calipers. This will be final colours or ready for carbon decals. No parts have been filed or sanded yet, just washed. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I started with coat of Upol Acid Etch Primer (No 8.) This was followed by a coat of Tamiya LP-5 Semi Gloss Black to a variety of bits, mainly suspension, rear wheels and hub assemblies. I did the floor at same time, but focused on getting parts ready fro rear of the car. Paint seems to have adhered well...so far. 

 

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Stages One and Two deal with rear end..first is rear light and lower suspension arms...light came as clear moulded resin? which I painted in LED bulbs in silver and then overcoated with black to represent it as it appears on full size. Then moved on to decal lower suspension and was shocked to discover you are only provided decals for top of arms, not the whole thing, therefore I chose to use soem carbon fibre decals to completely wrap the arms. I understand this is not as detailed as the full detail kits, but only covering the upper parts??? This is true for all of the suspension peices. Very disappointed. 

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Rear wheel hubs were assembled and I toyed with covering the cake tins in decals but figured they would be lost behind the wheel, and the level of detail in this model is beginning to disappoint me...Wheel hub fitment took some jockeying around and the completed subassembly has considerable weight to it. Rear jack point was added and as I was uncler to its correct colour, in reference pics it seems almost black or carbon, but opted for titanium. Overall, I am pleased withfinal outcome.

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Stages Four and Five tackle to front nose. This is a mix of metal and resin parts, with some photo etch thrown in for good measure. No fitment issues, everything is nice and tight, minimal clean up required. This built slowly into a nice, complex, aero design. Very satisfying to build.

 

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Front wing is then offered up to main chassis tub. I drilled as many holes as I could figure at this stage and front suspension upper arms were checked for fit. Again, this is already a hevy section...

 

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In the meanwhile, I got carried away and forget to take any photos, but trust me, I spent a night assembling the main chassis...much fettling ensued, Sanding, fitting, filing, checking, taking apart, getting annoyed, sanding, filing, sanding...you get the idea. But it's done now, has been given a coat of Upol Etch Primer and then a coat of White undercoat. I used Zero paints white filler primer and despite shaking to death, this stuff was a nightmare, my fault for not using my normal Mr Surfacer. You live and learn, but never again...I would normally rave about Zero Paints, they are my go to for colour matching, but this primer was awful. Clumps of the filler material blocking airbrush, settled in paint jar, just a nightmare...and it feels as rough as a badgers ar*e, so will require a sand before painting for real commences. As this really pis*ed me off, I thought I would direct myself to the cockpit, to bring back the love...what a good decision...

 

Jumped to Stage Eleven and started with stering wheel. All components for cockpit were Etch Primed and given semi gloss black treatment. Steering wheel comprises of three parts, two white metal and a photo etch ring. Again, compared to my Top Studio FW14 steering wheel, comprising of 11 pieces, it does seem a bit basic. I carbon decaled the central section, this was Scale Motorsport Carbon Fibre Plain Weave, started at top rear, folded over top and worked it down, using Ultimate Decal Setting Solutions (strong) and just dabbed it down slowly over the casting. This allowed decal to sit over the buttons/dials.

 

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The shaft was painted in Tamiya Sparkling Silver and Titanium Gold. Details of buttons were picked out in appropriate colours. Finished up with Tamiya Rubber Black for hand positions. The close up picture makes this look a right mess, when viewed in scale. it is beautiful. Very nice scale effect. I need to decide how to do the Alice logo in centre, I may have a red triangle decal somewhere...The real version is alongside for comparison. Actual wheel is smaller than a two pence coin...

 

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Next part will be carbon decals for tub sides and detail painting for switch gear in cockpit. Seat may be sprayed with textured paint, just need to check references and then seat belts...

Edited by Peter Milgate
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Good progress 👏 

I've used Upol etch primer as well, good stuff but I found it went on quite heavy at times, I've also used zero primers as well and never had any problems. I have a vibro mixer and always have one of the little glass balls in the jar as well, don't know if this makes the difference 

Ian 😀 

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15 hours ago, Redstaff said:

Good progress 👏 

I've used Upol etch primer as well, good stuff but I found it went on quite heavy at times, I've also used zero primers as well and never had any problems. I have a vibro mixer and always have one of the little glass balls in the jar as well, don't know if this makes the difference 

Ian 😀 

Hi Redstaff, 

It came out of a 500ml jar, but I shook it forever, used an electric mixer thingy...I think the filler element had just seperated and no matter what I tried it did not mix properly. I had even thrown in a mixing ball. No doubt down to my poor effrt to mix it. I may try it on next build, probably need to try harder with it!! As I say, normally love my Zero Paints. 

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Work continued with cockpit tub. Carbon decals used for side inserts, I used a black/bronze shaded carbon twill to break uo the darkness in the cockpit. I plan to use textured paint on the seat and carbon decals for surrounds. I also carried on with some more small details on front of tub.

 

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To keep the model moving forward, I started with main colours of car. This would be a two part metallic red, by Zero paints. The whole process involved etch primer (Upol) followed by a white undercaot, as previously discussed. This was rubbed down with 1500 grit sanding sponges. I found a can of Mr Surfacer 1000 Base White in the cupboard, so after the initial undercoat, I re coated it with this. This went down unbelievably smooth. A rattle can which was just sweet. 

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First layer of colur was an amazing sparkling silver first layer, which was then overlayed with a thin red colour. This was anxiety provoking as I was unsure how this may come out. I typically overdo my spraying but I was pleased with the result, even without lacquer, it has a sweet little sparkle to it under the lights. Very fine silver pigment. All my reference pics are in differing lights and the actual depth and shade is difficult to assess from my Google photos.

 

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Whilst this was drying off, I did some work on floor, I remain unsure of whether to decal it all or just leave it semi gloss as per instructions. I expect I will decal it...but Iattempted to paint a floor/plank. Seems okay in reality

 

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As part of a subassemly, I figured now base paint is down, I can finish off bits...starting with front wing section. So I laid down some semi gloss black and commenced with decals. Leading edges to front wings were covered with a carbon/titanoium decal strip which proved very fragile and hard work to place. I used Extra strong setting solution and they still resisted going around the curve. the decals do appear to be quite thick in this kit, but I eventually worked our that with setting solution and my heat gun, they would conform eventually. Just seemed harder work than it should have been....

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These just need the camera decals fitted. These are not yet 2k'd. The whole car will be done in one session once all elements are completed prior to final assembly. Next few steps will be finish seat and complete front wheels and suspension. To break these jobs up, I may do odd decals to the body...Overall, pleased with how it has proceeded despite initial disappointments. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Looking good

I've got some of the 2 part paint for the F60 I'm building, was dreading trying it, but it does look good and you've given me a bit of confidence now :) 

 

Ian 

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i purchased a 1/12 Porsche 956 from Hiro directly during the covid period last year and nothing fitted , there were parts on the chassis that were off angle and could'nt be placed for example there is a rigid torsion bar which goes across the chassis and its off by about 30 dgrs ! the screws supplied to keep together the chassis do not hold they cannot take the weight , i drilled bigger holes and used bigger screws for that and the brake hubs but still they would'nt hold , next day they get loose . the wishbones are rigid and the spring shocks dont work they are fixed . the air ducts are made of resin and not flexible so they dont fit properly since they are not  made of flexible rubber . you cannot turn the wheels .  The engine was way too heavy  when completed . the windshield and light covers were lexan sheets which you had to cut into shape . Putting together  the wheels was a nightmare of quick glue . The cost was around 600usd and you will need to spend maybe twice as much in materials to get it done . Total waste of money . I put everything into a bag and into the waste bin , never regretted it . 

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6 hours ago, oldman said:

i purchased a 1/12 Porsche 956 from Hiro directly during the covid period last year and nothing fitted , there were parts on the chassis that were off angle and could'nt be placed for example there is a rigid torsion bar which goes across the chassis and its off by about 30 dgrs ! the screws supplied to keep together the chassis do not hold they cannot take the weight , i drilled bigger holes and used bigger screws for that and the brake hubs but still they would'nt hold , next day they get loose . the wishbones are rigid and the spring shocks dont work they are fixed . the air ducts are made of resin and not flexible so they dont fit properly since they are not  made of flexible rubber . you cannot turn the wheels .  The engine was way too heavy  when completed . the windshield and light covers were lexan sheets which you had to cut into shape . Putting together  the wheels was a nightmare of quick glue . The cost was around 600usd and you will need to spend maybe twice as much in materials to get it done . Total waste of money . I put everything into a bag and into the waste bin , never regretted it . 

Hi,

 

Well…

I must admit that MFH kits are not easy to build, but they are not toys!

The screws are good but holes need to be drilled and tapped.

White Metal parts sometimes need to be bent or aligned.

The kit are heavy and that’s why supports are provided.

The wheels are just parts to put together… a test fit is useful and allow a smooth assy.

Resin ducts are ok and fit well if the assembly on which they are supposed to be installed  is  correctly built.

 

I think (my 2 cents…) that it’s a bit easy to say that a hard kit to build doesn’t worth the money you spent. There are enough MFH builds on the web and on the forum to réalisé it’s not a Trumpeter toy or a magical Tamiya kit.

MFH makes complex kits, of race cars not treated by other manufacturers, with  various and specific materials which need a bit of work : Multi media kits.

 

I would have been more interested than the bin to receive the kit. I only build MFH kits with great pleasure and not too bad result for me.

 

Best regards,

Pascal

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On 04/10/2022 at 10:49, Redstaff said:

Looking good

I've got some of the 2 part paint for the F60 I'm building, was dreading trying it, but it does look good and you've given me a bit of confidence now :) 

 

Ian 

Hi Redstaff, once the 2k lacquer was on it really dazzles, under lights it is easily the most beautiful colour I've done...read on...

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And back on it....Car seat finished, decaled in carbon and sprayed with Zero paints textured charcoal. Might not be 100% accurate but looks fab!! Seat belts added, Ihad to purchase some more ribbon as the bits in kit were not quite right width for etched parts. This was next dayed and only cost about a few quid for a lifetime supply of seatbelt webbing...

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Moved onto the floor and decided to cover this in carbon fibre decalling. A good idea in principle, but the reality was, I found this a right pain, finally I had problems with decals remaining adhered. I used my normal solutions and technique, finally covering i semi gloss acrylic varnish but they are still very delicate, has lifted in parts and flaked off in others...note to self, nexttime gloss varnish and decal rather than rely on a semigloss paint to allow decals to grab...still learning...

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On a roll now, carbon to inside of rear wing, along with outside decals...then the main body was assaulted with settings solutions, sticky decals and stuff...

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I had some difficulty with blled through on larger white square decals, I think the setting solutions I used was probably a bit too strong, so I resorted to masking the square and blasted it with some LP2 White...that fixed it...Decalling on this kit took me about four days...it really seemed never ending. But there was an end in sight by now. Time to mix some 2k...

 

I have previously struggled with getting enough 2k down so decided to up the game a bit and purchased a cheap 0.8mm airbrush with larger reservoirs. This was a GOOD decision. 

 

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To say I was pleased with the finish is an understatement. This is Upol Etch primer with Mr Surfacer 1500, followed by Zero Paints Ferrari 2007/2008 two part paint set, silver flakes first then thin red overspray, topped off by Zero Paints 2K diamond clearcoat. 

For me, this is the best 2k finish I have achieved so far. I love the colour. 

 

Body was left for a couple of days to harden off a bit and building commenced. 

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Engine was installed and sidepod inlets fitted. drilling and screwing into to resin did not present any issues. Also tacked in with some superglue. Seat was next to be fitted into its place...Have I mentioned I really like my cockpit???

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So, this is all going far to swimmingly...lets do the front suspension. What a pain in the ar**. This has caused me all kinds of ache. First issue, fitting and fixing of wheel hubs. I drilled the holes but did not tap them - mistake number one, thinking the machine screw would sort itself out. Thes took a ridiculous amount of pressure to seat properly, in future I will ensure I drill and tap as they should be. This kit is, after all for me to learn a bit about MFH and how to complete my important full detail builds. I got them on, but they could have been so much easier. 

 

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Next issue, which I haven't photogrpahed but you ma see results off in finished pics was getting the car to sit on its four wheels squarely. one front wheel on ground, left one about two foot in the air...not a problem, suspension arms are soft white metal, they just need a tweak into place, left down a bit, right up a bit...well off came the lacquer around the suspension mounts, pins ripped out of nose, one broken suspension arm...my fault for not doing enough test fitting and I should have left lower arms off chassis until I assembled all the front suspension in a single session...It is jury fixed and I will live with result but the anger, frustration and anxiety this event caused me was immense...the slight area of lacquer peel, I think I can live with otherwise, I'm not sure how I would tackle it. 

 

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So the wheels were bolted on with some detail painting. Tyre decals were completed and these cause me as much trouble as the tamiya reversed ones, same technique, same problems. I have ordered a template that will allow me to remove the decals and spray the lettering, but again, they aren't horrendous by any means...

 

Calling it finished now...my first multimedia/resin build, my first MFH kit and I'm really pleased with it...

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Ta Da. 

Fin.

Finito.

Done.

No more.

Well a bit of detail on tyres when template lands but for me this is complete. 

This has been a fun build, given some challenges and learning but that was it's purpose.

Thoughts:

MFH models...worth every penny, never paid full price but only because I was lucky enough to land on the Jaguar before I pulled the trigger. 

Instructions...more of a guide really...adequate but contain some errors, wheel hubs on outside when to fit they need to be on the inner wheel etc, nothing major you just need to check everything. Twice. Parts are nice, magnetic tumbler helped but I knew I would require one for future stash builds. My decals have been changeable, but generally very robust but I am unsure of age of kit. Upol and paint process has been pain free. Issues with the kit have been down to my misjudgement, spurred on by my impatience. Super glue appears to be holding it together but I do struggle to minimise the amount I use...No issues with resin to white metal to photo etch sticking together. 

Mr Paul Bretland's mantra of test fit, test fit, test fit is very, very good advice. 

This is a heavy model, weight of resin and metal combine to make it very hefty. It has made a lovely addition in my cabinet, of a beautiful, aerodynamically complex formula car, in the only colour formula one cars should be...red.

It could be better, and the next one will be...I'm not a professional, nor would I claim to be. I build for me and have really enjoyed this short build. I look at this car and smile, so that can't be too bad.

Next, a bit of plastic before the Jag....thanks for sticking with it. might even try the FW14B and get that done...

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Wow, thats brave taking on something this complicated!

And you have made a super job of it.

Very much looking forward to your next model no matter which one it is!

 

PS Who is Paul Bretland?

 

Malc.

Edited by Malc2
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23 hours ago, Malc2 said:

Wow, thats brave taking on something this complicated!

And you have made a super job of it.

Very much looking forward to your next model no matter which one it is!

 

PS Who is Paul Bretland?

 

Malc.

Paul Bretland - International Scale Models (ISM) He has a lot of youtube stuff, very proficebt builder and has recently done his first MFH build. Seems like a really nice bloke. He's normally at Scale Model World in Telford if you attend, hevily involved in Premium Hobbies (I think)

 

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