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Academy 1/35 Warrior MCV - finally what I was planning


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Catching up on completed work, here's my take on Academy's 1/35 Warrior MCV (the Iraq 2003 version). Now for anyone who's not seen any of my work from this year, I've been working on adding weathering to my armour, something I'd not been doing at all before. I've been wanting to remove the factory clean look and have a bit more of a believable "in use" vehicle. There's a few techniques that haven't been too challenging (washes for example come easy enough), but rust, chipping and streaking really don't come naturally for me. I've always been more a builder than a painter, so adding more "artistic" techniques was always going to be a challenge. I think I've been developing pretty well, but if you check out my previous two efforts (the M-10 and M-4), I've overdone the chipping and rust effects quite significantly. I didn't enjoy doing the chipping at all, even to the less than good level I managed there and the rust was just a case of being very overzealous. So on this one (which I've actually built from scratch this time rather than using a previous build to play with), I've really reigned in the chipping, pretty much confined it to the stowed containers. I've also had another go at some streaking on the skirts and some of the armour panels (trying to stay relatively subtle) and kept myself light on the rust. I'm actually really happy with the outcome this time - it's very much at the level I was hoping to get to when I started doing the weathering, so it'll be my baseline going forward with other models, with room for improvement following more practice of course. Thanks for looking :)

 

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You're really getting the hang of this malarky my friend.

Looks the part. Streaking can be a pain, but I would suggest just building up thin layers of colour and/or density till it suits YOUR eyes. As far as scratches etc., use a slightly lighter tone of the base colour, paint the scratch and then add a fine line of darker colour along the scratch. Worked for me, but I aren't an expert by any means.

Only other thing you could try is giving it an overall "dusty" wash, or dry brush a lighter tone over the raised details. Just to make it pop a bit.

Am looking forward to seeing where you go next. It's been an interesting ride going along with you.

Regards

Pete

 

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Very nice. I think your techniques are working well, especially the streaking on the side shields. I agree with Pete about some dust effects on the wheels etc. and pigments/powders are quite forgiving in this respect. Well done on the stowage too. 👏

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/31/2022 at 10:20 AM, MRMRL said:

bit more of a believable "in use" vehicle

 

I think this is rather good. Well done.

 

An easy way to suggest an in-use vehicle is to refrain from using black paint anywhere but most especially on rubber surfaces and most most especially on tyres. Used tires are often quite grey and on off-road vehicles, even more so. Even on the high street the only black tyres you will see are those that have been painted black by motor traders.

 

Black on a model is too black in my view 😁

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Some years ago a modeller in an article (possibly in one of the Tamiya model magazines, I can't recall), indicated that he prefer to use Payne's Grey as an alternative to Black on a model. Seemingly this colour was named after the 18th century water-colourist William Payne who created the mixture and often recommended it to his students as an alternative to plain black [source: https://www.winsornewton.com].

Payne's Grey [called Payne's Gray in the 1930 book by Maerz and Paul, A Dictionary of Color, New York, McGraw-Hill, according to Wikipedia] is a dark-blue grey. It is available in various mediums including acrylic, oil and watercolour. So to give the colour a go, I bought a tube of Payne's Grey in alykyd (as I always wanted to try alkyds) but I hardly used it much as it seemed to have a thick creamy consistency (I assumed alkyds are like that, so never bought another alkyd.) Recently I saw liquid acrylic Payne's Grey in a 60ml plastic bottle in an art shop, so it comes in bottles as well as tubes (and in the case of watercolour as those little "pans", a rectangular block of colour).

On https://guides.brit.co/guides/make-paynes-grey-acrylic-paint site, it says that Payne's Grey has a slight purplish tone and it suggests how to make your own Payne's Grey, by "cautiously" adding Burnt Sienna paint to Ultramarine "until you get a warm grey". To lighten, add Zinc White to this mix.  

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Looks good. I agree about what others have said about the black, I use Revell tar black for painting which is like Panzer grey. I've recently bought some Mig weathering pencils & have been trying them out. Reasonable pleased with the results so far, tutorials are on YouTube.

 

Pete

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