1:72 Biplane Rigging

[nheather]

Normally a 1:35 armour modeller I’ve decided to branch out into aircraft - and I’ve decided to focus on early WWII British Aircraft - including late pre-war.

 

So I’d like to include some biplanes, gladiator, walrus, swordfish etc.

 

I’ve never down rigging so after some advice about what product would make the job easier for a newbie.

 

Many thanks, for any advices and ideas

 

Nigel

[Pin]

https://www.johnlewis.com/prym-knit-in-elastic-200m-transparent/p3821314

 

All my biplanes are rigged with this thread

 

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235049115-complete-after-3-years-172-aerovac-latecoere-302/&do=findComment&comment=4321799

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235090445-we-are-the-priests-of-the-temples-of-syrinx-172-short-l17/&do=findComment&comment=4301784

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235109732-172-abm-savoia-sm-62-mbr-4/

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235081885-172-abm-chetverikov-mr-3-bis-resin/

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235080998-172-vsv-heinkel-hd-55-kp-1/

 

[nheather]

Is the Ammo rigging any good - if so would the 0.01mm be the appropriate size?

[nheather]

11 hours ago, Pin said:

https://www.johnlewis.com/prym-knit-in-elastic-200m-transparent/p3821314

 

All my biplanes are rigged with this thread

 

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235049115-complete-after-3-years-172-aerovac-latecoere-302/&do=findComment&comment=4321799

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235090445-we-are-the-priests-of-the-temples-of-syrinx-172-short-l17/&do=findComment&comment=4301784

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235109732-172-abm-savoia-sm-62-mbr-4/

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235081885-172-abm-chetverikov-mr-3-bis-resin/

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235080998-172-vsv-heinkel-hd-55-kp-1/

 

The stuff you linked in John Lewis is transparent, and that is the only colour that they sell.  In your models the rigging appears black - is that because you used a black variant, or you painted it black, or it is just an optical illusion (it is transparent but looks black).

 

Cheers,

 

Nigel

[Pin]

11 minutes ago, nheather said:

The stuff you linked in John Lewis is transparent, and that is the only colour that they sell.  In your models the rigging appears black - is that because you used a black variant, or you painted it black, or it is just an optical illusion (it is transparent but looks black).

 

I paint the thread before rigging, usually with black or silver permanent marker. 
 

[TheKinksFan]

34 minutes ago, Pin said:

 

I paint the thread before rigging, usually with black or silver permanent marker. 
 

I have used the prym knitting-in elastic, and it's quite good, although it might be a bit too wide for some 1/72 aircraft. I have painted the threads after rigging, and it's really PITA to do that. How do you paint it before rigging, do you stretch it somehow and paint it? I would assume that if you paint it un-stretched, there will be unpainted marks once you stretch it. What brand of marker do you use, a hobby marker like gundam marker or something generic?

 

Cheers,

 

Simon

[Pin]

1 minute ago, TheKinksFan said:

I have used the prym knitting-in elastic, and it's quite good, although it might be a bit too wide for some 1/72 aircraft.

The thread can be split to thinner threads with a sharp knife

 

Quote

 How do you paint it before rigging, do you stretch it somehow and paint it? 

 

Yes, I slightly stretch it (over a cardboard) and use thick marker. Just generic office one, nothing fancy

 

Maybe I should do a couple of pics, one pic worth a thousand words

[TheKinksFan]

Thank you for the fast reply, a pic would surely be appreciated too. Pre-painting the rigging would certaily save me from a lot of hassle. I usually end up accidentally touching the wings, and frantically trying to wipe the paint with a cotton bud. I wonder if the marker method would work with other threads like uschi and AK as well? 

 

Cheers,

 

Simon

[malpaso]

I’ve used Prym as is.  Seems fine for 1/72 or 1/32, the transparent look seems to work for me, gives a light effect against dark backgrounds or vice versa; it always seems that when looking at real biplanes from a distance you are “aware” of rigging even though human visual acuity means it can’t physically be seen.

1/72

1/32

Double flying wires on the Camel, I probably wouldn’t try that in a smaller scale.

 

Only slight concern is whether the knitting in elastic has a life when exposed to air / UV / sunlight etc.

 

I also tried:

stretched sprue - too hard to get consistent 

sewing thread - too fuzzy

invisible thread - impossible to see what you’re doing! 🤣

fishing monofilament - ditto plus danger of pulling out of square

metallic embroidery thread - looks marvelous but hard to avoid pulling out of square and/or getting a saggy line somewhere.

 

Hope this helps

Will

[Pin]

I tried unpainted, did not particularly like it 

 

 

[malpaso]

To me the uncoloured Prym on your Vimy(?) looks fine.  But I may try the marker method to see, to date I had considered it but was concerned I might get into an unholy mess of marker pen ink leaching out onto the model!  Or that the ink might affect the longevity of the elastic thread.

[nheather]

It looks a bit thick on 1:72 to be honest.  I’ve found ammo stuff which is black and 0.01mm but you only get 2m for about £6.  There is also infini stuff which is also black and about 0.0055mm, more expensive at around £15 but you get 45m.

 

Will probably try one of those.

 

Cheers,

 

Nigel

[Shorty84]

There is also the option to use Uschi van der Rosten flexible rigging thread: https://www.uschivdr.com/shopping-categories/shop-rigging-and-various/

 

For 1/72 they suggest their 'superfine' thread (0.01 mm).

 

Cheers

Markus

[TheKinksFan]

Uschi's superfine is truly superfine, it's so thin that the airflow inside is moving, finer than a human hair. AK Interactive have their line of rigging, 4 different thicknesses, 20 metres. I've used all except the super-thin. Mega-thin is probably about the same thickness as Uschi superfine.

[Pin]

You may have any thickness you want, just split the thread with a knife to the desired width

 

 

 

 

To paint I slightly stretch the thread over a cardbox and just paint over with a marker

 

 

 

 

[Greenshirt]

“Easy” is like most things with this hobby: do it enough and it is easy, do it once and it’s a challenge. 
 

Aircraft flying and landing wires (aka rigging) and control cables are quite thin, so modelers’ objectives are to get the thinnest possible solution that is also resilient enough to withstand the expected handling.

 

There are a few ways to add wires to aircraft:

• ⁠Hair — dark, from an old hairbrush. Free.
• Stretched sprue — hold over heat and stretch as thin as possible. If too thin to use plastic cement it is likely thin enough. Free.
• Ceramic “wonder wire” — extruded wire that is very thin and retains its straightness if bent slightly but is very brittle so if bent too much will shatter.
• 2 lb fishing line — cheap.
• Invisible thread — thinnest you can find. Comes in “smoke” color which is best. Some are elastic.
• Nylon thread — you can take old pantyhose or nylons and pull individual threads out. Stretchy so it is a bit more forgiving of handling.
• Elastic Nylon thread for models — Uschi, Mig, or EZ Line. Come in a variety of sizes.

I drill a tiny hole (not all the way through the plastic) just larger than the wire before assembly and paint so that it is ready for me to rig when assembly and decaling is finished.

 

If using threads, I use medium viscosity CA (superglue) and accelerator. I use a very fine needle to apply the glue very precisely, then dip the end of the aerial in accelerator. Then I touch the end of the aerial to the CA and it sticks. I prefer Uschi so then repeat for the other end by putting a slight tension on it (I cut it short by about 1/8”). For sizes, I like 0.001 for aerial wires or control cables and 0.003 for bracing wires on 1/72. I size up for 1/48 or larger to 0.005 for bracing wires. I continue to use 0.001 for aerials as those are very small on the real thing.

 

If using ceramic wire for interplane rigging (my current preference for 1/72) I simply trim each wire to just fit without a bend, then add a bit of thinned PVA to hold it. 
 

Tim

 

 

[TheKinksFan]

Thanks Alexey for the photographs and showing your method . 

 

Cheers

 

Simon

[Mark Harmsworth]

I feel like I may be the chap no-one wants at a party . . . . 

 

I love the look of bi-planes and once tried rigging a 1:72 Airfix Tiger Moth. Lots and lots of studying how to. The thing is a 1:72 bi-plane is really small - except for the swordfish I guess - and that rigging process is very fiddly. The Tiger Moth is small enough to sit comfortably on your palm. And not at all robust. A very steady hand and magnification is needed. And an awful lot of patience. And enthusiasm for a challenge.

 

I'd made good progress, then it leapt of my hand and nose dived onto the floor. And deconstructed itself very effectively - I think the rigging may have helped that. 

 

That's all a bit gloomy. Sorry.

 

My constructive recommendation from this would be start with something larger than 1:72. A lot larger. Maybe 1:1.

 

Mark