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Battleship Bretagne - France - 3D realisation - 1:200 scale


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Thanks all followers! 😉


Drawing the linoleum plates of deck 1 and the forecastle. 

 

I'm preparing deck 2 to draw them too, I have to arrange the front parts by group, because I have to make impressions to facilitate the gluing of the parts when it will be printed.

Very long and tedious operations, but very useful for the assembly, it's the first time I'm doing this.

 

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There is camber on the first 2 main decks, which does not make it easy to draw some elements, like linoleum, or even the move itself because of the irregularity of the edges of the decks, casemates etc... It's not easy.

 

Well, this boat has no shear, that's something, flat as a flatfish!

 

I'm almost done with the linoleum on deck 2, the upper deck of the C turret remains. 

 

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Footprints of the elements

 

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I never knew I wanted a kit of this battleship until now.  I knew very little about French dreadnoughts before you started this project but your thread has caused me to go down multiple internet rabbit holes!  Just fantastic work.

 

BW

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Tks BuNo! 

I am happy to promote this kind of French ship.

 

@Andreas, yes you need a suitable printer, it's better.

But my first printed ship was as long as this one. I printed it with a much smaller and less accurate printer, a Photon S. The hull was made of 14 pieces. You just have to print half hulls in this case.

 

Project USN Pamanset:

 

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Anycubic PhotonS in the back:

 

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The camber is a little more pronounced normally.

 

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Sectioning plan of the hull for printing.

For the cuts, you have to be careful not to fall on a porthole, an edge of sheet metal, or any protuberances, because it will be necessary to sand at this level after gluing and sometimes put putty if necessary, which will erase what is on the surface. As for the window, it may not be round anymore.

 

For the rear and the lines of trees it is necessary to try to print all in the same section by taking into account the rules above. :)

  

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No internal supports, Stuart, only the center wall. 

 

I print strait in the axis at this time, it's the best solution for this case.

 

I started to print the hull by starting with the section N°1 of the bow.

 

I had a very small problem with the deck coming off a few supports, the section is usable but a little deformed, rectifiable with very little filler. 

 

But as I have another little thing that I don't like (a forgotten a wall in the front that deforms the deck), I reprint it.

 

The problem comes from the protective film of the glass that reduces a little the UV radiation, I put it in place a little while ago, it plays a little on the exposure times, especially on the layers of the deck.

 

I corrected it in the settings and now it's ok for the second copy of section 1.

 

I also printed the second section, it is very good. I keep the prototypes in general, it allows to show people how the printing of the ship is done.

 

In any case it will make a hell of a beast, it is far from being ridiculous next to the Bismarck at 1/200 too.

 

I am very happy with this first round.

 

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You can see the flaw on the forecastle deck in low light. A useless transverse bulkhead that I forgot to erase on the inside. It causes a stretch on the deck indirectly during printing, a known phenomenon. 

 

You can see some on the hull plating, because of the hawksbills which are very big and embedded on this ship, but there it's normal, there's nothing to do, it's unavoidable, except sanding a little. :)

 

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Section 2, I made an impression for the threaded rod nut that will hold the vessel and bracket, the nut will be glued on with resin bi-component glue.

 

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What's next:

Joining section 2, gluing and sanding.

 

Pause a transparent Rhodoid behind the portholes before gluing, it will not be accessible afterwards.

 

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The No. 1 board of front range equipment.

 

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Trying to get the anchors in place.

 

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Pascal,

 

It is amazing of course :worthy:

 

If I may hazard a small comment, that join line would bother the hell out of me, I know that I would not be able to make filler work and not loose the plate detail in that area.  It's more fussy, but perhaps breaking the sections around the plate edges may make this joint clean-up easier.  Just a thought, in no way a criticism of this incredible project

 

Cheers

 

Steve

 

 

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Thank you !  😉👍

 

 

@Steve

Actually I do the gluing and the Cyanoacrylate glue joint with activator, it's very efficient, especially that here the connection between the two sections is clean before gluing. No need to putty.

It's not aesthetic on the picture, but once painted it's very clean, you can't see the junction. This is a bit of a problem with a step by step subject.

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13 hours ago, Iceman 29 said:

This is a bit of a problem with a step by step subject

I'm ashamed of doubting you and can echo that sentiment.  Step-by-step threads show all the intermediate issues that vanish once a model is completed.  I say issues but in my case of course I mean mistakes :doh:

 

Looking great 

 

Steve

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Tks Brandy! 

 

A Big Baby! :)

 

Printed and glued section 3 a few days ago, then sanded the joints until I couldn't feel anything with my fingertips at the glued sections.

 

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Printing of the last section N°4. It fits perfectly, it's not glued yet, I have some cleaning to do before and I have to put the transparent Rhodoid of the portholes inside, because it won't be accessible once glued.

 

I've opened the deck at the level of the gun barbettes to be able to glue the rear 140 mm guns in casemate, not easy but it's ok.   

 

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Been watching quietly in the background since you started Pascal, and I have to say this is absolutely one of the best CAD to print builds I've seen!

 

May I ask, (I probably missed it) what material you are actually using to print?

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On 12/3/2022 at 4:59 PM, Steve D said:

Pascal,

 

It is amazing of course :worthy:

 

If I may hazard a small comment, that join line would bother the hell out of me, I know that I would not be able to make filler work and not loose the plate detail in that area.  It's more fussy, but perhaps breaking the sections around the plate edges may make this joint clean-up easier.  Just a thought, in no way a criticism of this incredible project

 

Cheers

 

Steve

 

 


It's not a problem for the details of the plates, the negative engraving is quite deep on the one hand, and if it fades, I retrace it with a Trumpeter tool, which is normally used to amplify the engraving of aircraft wings and fuselage, it's quite easy to do. 

 

trumpeter-outil-a-graver-pour-modelisme.

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13 hours ago, Killingholme said:

Stunning. I've seen rougher pre-production models from some of the major model manufacturers. If you did some Edwardian ocean liners in 1/700, I'd be flying over to you and begging you to sell them to me!

 

Will


 

Tks Will ! 
 

For the moment, I only have a 1/700 project, I am not a specialist of this scale, but liners at this scale would be interesting to realize, I think of the SS Carpathia for example or others which do not exist in the trade. The problem is the time..
 

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11 hours ago, RussellE said:

Been watching quietly in the background since you started Pascal, and I have to say this is absolutely one of the best CAD to print builds I've seen!

 

May I ask, (I probably missed it) what material you are actually using to print?


Hello Russel, i use a Anycubic Photon X 4K resin 3D printer for this project. 

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Section 4 was very easy to assemble and glue, little sanding.

It's starting to take a turn in this case...

 

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The hull weighs 663 grams for the moment. A weight roughly equivalent to what would be its weight in injected plastic.

But much more rigid because of its design and material.

 

Printing the 2 pillars of the base in the same style as my Bismarck at 1/200. The advantage of 3D is that it fits perfectly the hull.

 

 

The resin is easily scratched, but this is very superficial in fact, once painted it is not visible.

 

You can see the links of the sections that have been sanded. I still have to apply a primer to check if everything is perfect. At this level some of the sheet metal lines have been re-engraved with Trumpeter's "engraver" which is usually used for my model aircraft. I will also use it to clean the sheet metal lines loaded with sanding dust.

 

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I didn't do any embedding on this deck. I only made 2 holes for the 140mm barrels at the front to do a test. 

 

With resin I'm a bit wary of precision. You always have to "play" a little. For deck 2, there are some recesses planned, I'll see what it gives visually, I'll decide if I should leave them or not. Deck 2 is easier to reprint than a hull or a section of hull.

 

As for the linoleum plates, you can see them perfectly without seeing them too much either, just fine, as I like, it's discreet.

 

Here there is just a micro-coat of spray primer to see what it does to the moiré surface of the deck. I want to know if I need to sand to 1000 again. I have a second coat to put on to see if it covers well, by finger, by not feeling anything..

 

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