Water Based Decal Fix

[Bagman]

Should I use it and if so how?  If I shouldn't use it what should I use instead? Or can I just use warm water?

Lots of conflicting advice and opinions out there  on YouTube and other modelling sites.

 

Bagman

[Casey]

Decal Fix or similar products (there are many) are designed to soften the decals to make them 'lay over' the model better, and look like painted on. They also improve adhesion and reduce chance of decal silvering.

 

You do not *have* to use them, but a lot of people (me including) find them very helpful.

 

Which one exact product are you talking about?

[Troy Smith]

2 hours ago, Bagman said:

Should I use it and if so how?  If I shouldn't use it what should I use instead? Or can I just use warm water?

too vague.  You get better answers here by stating what you are trying to do with what.

So, depends  the brand of decals,  how much carrier film they have, and what surface they are to be applied too, how gloss or matt, flat surface, or shaped,  or with a lot of detail to conform too.

 

All these will affect what methods you use, and if you use any products.

 

High quality thin decals on a glossy surface is really the only time you will get good results with nothing.

 

Thick Japanese decals need hot water, and probably strong solvents.

 

this method works

 

If in doubt, use a spare decal on scrap finished with the same paint. 

 

It says  'Sea Vixen', so kit decals? 

 

HTH

[Bagman]

8 hours ago, Casey said:

Decal Fix or similar products (there are many) are designed to soften the decals to make them 'lay over' the model better, and look like painted on. They also improve adhesion and reduce chance of decal silvering.

 

You do not *have* to use them, but a lot of people (me including) find them very helpful.

 

Which one exact product are you talking about?

Thank you. I’m building the 1/72 Revell Sea Vixen kit.  I’ll try your method. 
Bagman. 

[Mark Harmsworth]

I get my best results with a smooth surface - usually I apply a gloss varnish before the decals.

 

Good luck - and keep asking questions.

Mark

[Neddy]

I'm in a similar dilemma.  Specifically a Revell car kit which has quite a few decals needing to be laid on a fairly flat surface over water-based acrylic gloss paint.  I've read several dire warnings about using decal softeners or fixers over water-based acrylics and am tempted to just go with warm water, maybe with a drop of washing-up liquid or white vinegar.  Anyone with experience of using them on water-based acrylics?

[Troy Smith]

27 minutes ago, Neddy said:

I've read several dire warnings about using decal softeners or fixers over water-based acrylics and am tempted to just go with warm water, maybe with a drop of washing-up liquid or white vinegar.  Anyone with experience of using them on water-based acrylics?

decals solutions vary.

Practice with spares on a mule with the same paint finish.

You may not need solutions over a fairly flat surface, but try using warm or hot water, as this will soften the decal.  Or a hot compress.

Or, use Kleer or similar as a barrier, and the use this.

 

[Neddy]

Excellent advice, very many thanks, I'll do just that.

[Casey]

I use water based acrylics and only one paint which had issues so far were Mission Models paints.

 

I use Microsol and Microset.

 

And I dont use MMP paints anymore.

[Nocoolname]

The best ‘painted on effect’ I ever achieved was on a 1/48 F-4B in 1987 using airbrushed Humbrol gloss enamels, Microscale deacls, Decal Cote 1 & 2, another enamel gloss coat then a matt coat. Final result was a complete blending of the decals and surrounding paintwork.