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Mirage Hobby Lekki Czolg Zwiadowczy SdKfz 123 Light Scout Tank


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Hi All

 

Going to try for a better yellow based camo, so this specimen appeared in The Lab

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You get some plastic in the box along with all the air you bought

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With a couple of small etch sets, some string, individual track links

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And, hold on to your hats, construction steps sequenced in Roman Numerals!

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The part numbers and the instructions differ, not to worry, just Match The Shapes

 

There are some of the best ejector pin marks available, but no locating pins

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So that third hand of yours will come in, er, handy to get parts aligned and glued

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The instructions show three schemes, and there are subtle differences in the parts to use for each version. Some are indicated, but some (like the rear hatch on the turret) are not.

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There is a 2/3 wide hatch plate also on the sprue, but looks like I'll be doing a version with the full width hatch.

 

Indications for boxes / jerrycans / smoke canisters to be positioned all over, but I think I'll leave them off until I see photo evidence.

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

 

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I recently built Mirage Hobbies 1/35 Vickers E MkA an inter war tank. Similar to your model it was a lot of little parts some not matching to the instructions and no location tabs and was moulded in white plastic which revealed  a lot of very fine detail when painted. There were no real problems with the build as long as everything was dry fitted first. Looking forward to seeing what you do with this one.

 

    Stay safe             Roger

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All

 

Off and on for some while, so I thought I'd see what all these track links do.

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Stuck to the back of masking tape and glued one by one.

 

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I figured I'd need a couple of flat runs before going round the wheels, about twenty five ish links should do for a start.

 

They did seem to bow up slightly while drying, so I tried doing them on the back of the ruler that happened to be exactly the right width to fit between the teeth

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Still bowing slightly, but they should flatten out when there's a wheel on them.

 

Anyhoo, on with the surprisingly high number of little things to add to the outside, such as lifting hooks, handles replaced with wire, lights, track racks from PE etc

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Also on the PE fret are the tow cable securing clamps, those little things

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I expect the merest passing gaze will have them off again, so I drilled them out and replaced them with little bits of wire

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A stern gaze should have those away...

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

 

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Nice one. You are off to a good start.

 

The Mirage kits are.. well, you have noticed, I see.

The only advice I can give is to use photographic evidence as much as possible.

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Hi All

 

On 8/12/2022 at 9:07 PM, SprueMan said:

The Mirage kits are.. well, you have noticed, I see.

The only advice I can give is to use photographic evidence as much as possible.

 

On 8/14/2022 at 8:27 AM, Milan Mynar said:

I built several T-26 and Vickers 6 ton models from MIrage-Hobby kits. They are good kits for those modelers who are not afraid of putty and sanding. Alternatively, they are able to produce or modify some parts.

 

You're right, this kit seems to be for someone with a firm idea of what the want to build, and a photographic record of how it should look.

I sort of stumbled into it, only wanting to build what was offered in the kit. Actually I was only wanting to experiment with Dunkelgelb, so it wouldn't really have bothered me what I built.

 

Anyhoo, onto the tracks and running gear

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Fairly simple to put together once I'd got my head round the wheel arrangement

 

I started the tracks with two runs of 25 links to form the top and bottom

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There then followed numerous sessions with pointy tweezers, a cocktail stick and TET.

 

And a little file to get those three sprue points per link off. That's 3 points per link, x35 links per sprue, x7 sprues. I don't have enough fingers to add that all up.

 

Done

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Paint time!

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The PE is quite thin and flexible enough to deform to simulate being trodden on

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But take note, the two side pieces are different lengths by about 1mm

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I splashed some various rust washes on the exhaust

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But it needs to be redder. I'll see what I've got on the shelf.

 

In other news, Dunkelgelb!

 

I give you Vallejo VA71.028 Sand Yellow

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:poo:

 

Straight from the bottle it was grainy and uncooperative as on the top, adding one drop of airbrush cleaner made it scurry away as on the wheels.

 

That was last night. This morning I went back to Tamiya XF-60 Dark Yellow

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Don't know why I just didn't use that in the first place :banghead:

 

I'd best get a coat of Pledge on it before I ruin it again with something else.

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

 

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Hi All

 

What comes after Dark Yellow?

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XF-82 Dark Green 2

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Very dilute with IPA, sprayed freehand, 0,2mm about 15psi. I would have liked lower pressure, but it didn't seem to want to come out until then.

 

Never mind, to me the green looks ok against the yellow.

 

I got the decals on (all 5 of them), and gave the top surfaces a misting of very, very, very thinned XF-60 cut 50/50 with white just to tie it all together and lighten it up a touch.

 

While that was drying I dotted the wheel bolts with Vallejo VA71.074 Radome Tan

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Next a leap of faith. Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color Brown on the wheel circumferences and the body surfaces, with MiG Ammo A.MIG-1005 Dark Brown Wash For Green Vehicles on the wheel hubs and round the engine end of the body

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Thankfully (again) it blended well with the Zest-It potion and an old brush

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The wheels should tone down with some mud or something that I'll put on the lower part of the body

 

I left the back deck streaky round the hatches

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And yes, I now realize I fitted the front part of the gun mantle upside down when I sprayed the green, so actually it's a new one fitted in the field.

 

I'm going to let it rest, because sure as eggs is eggs I'll find a wash tidemark if I Pledge it too soon.

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

 

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Hi All

 

Florry time!

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A layer of Sand and a layer of Brown. The tracks are still under review.

 

The Flory is rubbed back with a damp cotton bud

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And gives a dirtier look than the washes, but not as claggy as lumpy mud.

 

Mindful of the KV-2 thread, the tracks were dry brushed with grey

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But they looked a little too grey so they were washed with Humbrol Rust Wash that came from somewhere ages ago

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And possibly some Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color (Brown), I've lost track somewhere :banghead:

 

Anyhoo, after a coat of W&N Matt it was time to put it all back together

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There was the expected juggling with the wheel placements, but they eventually slotted on and the ends of the tracks joined

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Once they were secure, the axles were glued and weight was applied to make sure they all settled level

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The kit tow rope was replaced with some copper wire. It was a bit of a wrestle to get it onto the engine deck, but those clamps proved up to the job.

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Once they've set, I'll glue the wheels onto the lower section, then glue down the upper track run onto the tops of the wheels.

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

 

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Hi All

 

Tracks done, turret together and on.

 

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Looking at her now, a couple of things stick out.

The outside of the teeth on the drive sprocket wouldn't have been worn free of paint as they are on the outside of the track.

The Radome Tan used for highlighting the bolt heads is a touch bright, perhaps a darker accent colour would have been better.

The combination of MiG Wash and Flory looks promising, more experimentation in the pipeline.

 

All in all an enjoyable build (yes, even the single link tracks), and a good base for the Dunkelgelb

 

Thanks to all who joined along, see you on the next one

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

 

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