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1:48 Trumpeter MiG-3 “naked”


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52242301701_f1888f6cf5.jpg

 

After the heavily weathered, multi-layered chipped paint exercise that was my Corsair build, I think a change of pace is needed…

So, time for another “naked” build, this time a MiG-3.

 

A while ago I stumbled across this drawing…

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…and thought it would be an ideal subject to show the metal, wood and linen materials used.

 

Here are my drawings…

52247004203_9fb47c97f0_z.jpg

 

I’ll be using the Trumpeter 1:48 Soviet MiG-3 early version.

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So far the aftermarket I have is…

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Reskit resin wheels

 

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Eduard PE

I'm not sure how much of this PE I'll use, I'll probably paint the kit parts and then decide as the PE is "flat" whilst the moulded pieces are more "3D"

 

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Montex mask

 

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Quickboost exhaust

 

As yet I’m undecided about the following aftermarket…

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Quickboost landing gear

 

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Quickboost prop’ and spinner

I quite like the idea of having no "join lines" for the spinner and being able to paint it in NMF without the worry of spoiling the finish glueing the pieces together.

 

...I may well get these, first I'll have a close look at the kit pieces before making my mind up.

 

 

First I’ll be starting on the cockpit.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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A change is as good as a rest, they say.

I do like the Mig 3, sleek looking from some angles and quite chunky from others.

Get on with it then!

 

John. 🇺🇦

 

PS: First reply again! People will talk.

 

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Looking forward to this one. The Mig 3 Is an interesting build a should look pretty cool in the bare scheme.

 

Personally Im not a huge fan of  aftermarket bits and pieces although I have indulged in the odd engine over the years. Yes you can improve a kit with them, but what with the increase in kit prices lately, they can make modelling an extremely expensive hobby. I also think they can deter  modellers from build their skills. 

Probably the same as my view of 3D printing; I love the technology and have used it extensively in a professional capacity, but I sort of think of using it to fabricate model components as cheating.

 

Then again each to their own. I’ll put my soap box away now :) 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
5 minutes ago, Biggles87 said:

Have you started yet?  😜

Hi John

 

I've not started yet, two of my Grandsons turned up, unexpectedly on my part although my wife "insists" I knew all about them coming to stay, my memory's bad but not "that bad", however my daughter picked them up this morning so I plan to make a start this weekend. (unless I've "forgotten" some other occasion!?)

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Looking forward to this to see how you tackle it. I had the late and early versions and both had the same issues, mostly the inserts and cockpit floor. The radio shelf behind the seat is a bit vague with location so I hope this helps. If you want to see how I put mine together I can send you links

 

1588514926274-png.579949

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11 minutes ago, fubar57 said:

Looking forward to this to see how you tackle it. I had the late and early versions and both had the same issues, mostly the inserts and cockpit floor. The radio shelf behind the seat is a bit vague with location so I hope this helps. If you want to see how I put mine together I can send you links

 

1588514926274-png.579949

thanks fubar57

 

I'm sure this will be helpful 👍

I don't understand why manufactures can't make "better" instructions, not just Trumpeter there are others who treat them as an "after thought" it's almost as if we're expected to know exactly how/where each piece fits?

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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52247544310_d8b61f74b8.jpg

 

As I did for my “naked” Hurricane I’m going to “paint” the cockpit.

 

Trumpeter's instructions suggest that the interior colour should be RLM02 grey…

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…however, there was an interesting discussion here…

 

…on what the “real”colour should be.

 

massimotessitori has a wonderful “reference” site, here’s a link to the “right cockpit wall detail”…

https://massimotessitori.altervista.org/sovietwarplanes/pages/mig3/yuri-rr/right-cockpit-wall.htm 

 

I’m going to use a couple of colours for the cockpit walls, the main colour will be Mr Hobby H096 (or something similar)…

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…with highlights, including the framework H417.

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Whilst not strictly accurate, I’ll be playing the “artist licence” card quite a lot for this build, the seat will be a dark green colour similar to H303.

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I decided to get both the resin landing gear covers and the prop and spinner. The kit landing gear covers is quite a bit thicker than the resin version, I also think the resin details are better defined.

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I’ll have to be carful handling these parts as they are extremely thin, sods law I’ll break some/all of them?

 

 

 

Next I’ll be identifying which pieces can be assembled (if any) prior to adding some primer.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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2 hours ago, shortCummins said:

I decided to get both the resin landing gear covers and the prop and spinner. The kit landing gear covers is quite a bit thicker than the resin version, I also think the resin details are better defined.

 

Good call.  The resin bits look much better!

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3 hours ago, Ale85 said:

Nice and interesting project

 

thanks Ale85

 

I hope it will be, I've done a few "naked" builds now and even if no-one else likes them I do 😜

 

3 hours ago, bigbadbadge said:

It does look intriguing John, look forward to watching it develope. 

Chris

thanks Chris

 

3 hours ago, Beggsy said:

 

Good call.  The resin bits look much better!

thanks Beggsy

 

the "quality" of the resin is exceptional, I'm a little worried that they are so thin I'm going to break them, I'll have to be really carful

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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52284573768_2d77c580db.jpg

 

After studying the instructions I cam to the conclusion that there really wasn’t much that could be pre-assembled prior to primer except for the seat supports.

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Other kit parts were identified and nailed to cocktail sticks to make painting easier.

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The resin “protection bars” were removed from the resin parts.

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There is PE leavers, control wheels and switches that, if I decide to use them, will be added after the base interior colours have been applied. I got the PE set primarily for the seat harness and IP, I hadn’t planned on using the other bits but I may use some of the parts if I think they can “add” to the cockpit, also if they can be seen!?

 

 

 

Next I’ll be applying the primer.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Resin parts look great. I wish I had them when I was doing mine. I had to reshape the area in front of the exhausts to represent my early MiG-3. Here's how it looks in the kit

 

1-jpg.496297

 

How it's supposed to look

 

mig-3-pipes_a-jpg.496310

 

....and before I fine tuned and faired it in, Not perfect but better

 

img_0003-jpg.496375

 

 

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John, as you probably know, your best bet for colours and other information regarding the MiG-3 is Massimo and his site. He actually wrote a book on the MiG-3, so it is definitely his bailiwick. Regarding your 'naked' models, I'm fairly certain that everyone enjoys them - I know I do. I've always had it in my mind to do such a version of the Il-2. That would look good with the combination of armour steel, aluminium, plywood, and fabric. Of course, if you beat me to it, I wouldn't mind! Best of luck on your MiG!

 

Regards,

 

Jason

Edited by Learstang
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17 hours ago, fubar57 said:

Resin parts look great. I wish I had them when I was doing mine. I had to reshape the area in front of the exhausts to represent my early MiG-3. Here's how it looks in the kit

 

1-jpg.496297

 

How it's supposed to look

 

mig-3-pipes_a-jpg.496310

 

....and before I fine tuned and faired it in, Not perfect but better

 

img_0003-jpg.496375

 

 

thanks fubar57

 

I wonder why they didn't mould the pice correctly?

 

out with the sanding sticks!

 

17 hours ago, Learstang said:

John, as you probably know, your best bet for colours and other information regarding the MiG-3 is Massimo and his site. He actually wrote a book on the MiG-3, so it is definitely his bailiwick. Regarding your 'naked' models, I'm fairly certain that everyone enjoys them - I know I do. I've always had it in my mind to do such a version of the Il-2. That would look good with the combination of armour steel, aluminium, plywood, and fabric. Of course, if you beat me to it, I wouldn't mind! Best of luck on your MiG!

 

Regards,

 

Jason

thanks Jason

 

I didn't know he wrote a book however, I did put a link to the excellent website earlier in this build log 👍

 

15 hours ago, Biggles87 said:

I have seen at least one photo of an unpainted Mig 3 instrument panel, which would add to you naked look too. I think it was one of my books, I’ll have a look tomorrow to see if I can find it.

 

John

thanks John

 

the kit IP had very little detail, and what there is is very "soft" so I've already sanded it in preparation for the Eduard PE

 

3 hours ago, Ngantek said:

Always love these 'raw material' builds of yours! Can't wait to see it progress.

 

Cheers,

Andy

thanks Andy

 

I've a Revell 1:48 Stearman Kaydet that I plan to do a naked build of, I'm not sure if it'll get done this year as I've a Tamiya Beaufighter and RedRoo target tug conversion that I plan to do after this build, I've tried building multiple kits in the past and really didn't enjoy the experience 

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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52285201901_9f0e6938ab.jpg

 

Having identified which parts can be painted before assembly and mounted them for easier painting they were given a coat of Stynylrez black primer.

I’m not sure if its something to do with the “heat”, it is still very warm and muggy here in Nottingham, but for some reason the primer went on a bit “patchy”.

 

Here’s the seat and seat back…

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…the cockpit floor…

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…sidewalls…

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…the IP has been sanded flat in preparation for the PE, you can see how “soft” the detail was on the remaining switch and bezel…

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…the radio deck.

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Next I’ll be applying the basic cockpit paint colours.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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52287206401_0163e9eab0.jpg

 

As I mentioned the detail on the IP was very soft…

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…so I decided to add some bezels. Firstly I wrapped some thin wire around a drill bit…

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…that I then cut off…

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…and glued a couple of the rings to the lower part of the IP as bezels.

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Earlier I posted the colours I was going to use for the cockpit, the “outside” of the aircraft will be wood, metal and fabric, however I can’t for the life of me find the paints, I know I’ve got them, I’ve still got the delivery note!, I just can’t find them!

 

So, I decided to use Akan paints.

FS:35237 medium grey/blue…

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AMT-4 was used for the seat…

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Next I’ll be applying the cockpit “details” paint.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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6 hours ago, Learstang said:

You look like you airbrushed those - how did the AKAN paints behave?

 

Regards,

 

Jason

Hi Jason

 

you're correct I did airbrush them.

I thinned them approx 60% paint 40% UMP thinner at a pressure of 1 bar (18 psi) using a H&S Infinity fitted with a 0.2 needle.

 

I've used Akan paints for around 7 years and not had any issues since finding the "correct" thinner ratio.

I don't often use them nowadays as I'm using MRP lacquer which have become my "go to" paint. 

Previously I used only Tamiya and Mr Hobby acrylics, when these are thinned with Mr Levelling Thinner (Unicorn tears) they work nearly as well as MRP (MRP can be used "as is" they don't need thinning) the only issue is getting the thinner ratio "just right" but I'm getting better at getting it right "first time" these days. Also I tend to mix the paints in small "sealable" such as these...

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I get them from e-bay, search for "3.5ml SMALL EMPTY PLASTIC PAINT POT TUB CAN BOTTLE & CAP MIX PAINTS OR NAIL ART"

 

mixing paint "outside" of the airbrush really helped me to get consistent results.

 

Previous to finding Mr Levelling Thinner I'd used UMP thinner with Tamiya and Mr Hobby with "mixed" results, hence I tried Akan, In my opinion Tamiya, Mr Hobby and Mr Levelling Thinner is "better" than Akan/UMP thinner, but not by very much.

 

The Akan range of Russian colours is second to none, I've also bought one of their RAF sets, I particularly like their "interior grey/green" as well as their version of Sky Type S.

 

As far as I'm concerned Akan have/had only 2 problems,

1) availability, when I first bought them I could only get them from Greece as they didn't have a UK distributer, I think that has now changed?

2) the bottles are small, approx half the amount of a Tamiya or Mr Hobby pot, I normally build 1:48, if I was building a 1:32 aircraft I could see myself using 2 or 3 pots in a single build.

 

Akan are nice paints, and you can use them in both an airbrush or with a paintbrush, something I struggle with Tamiya and Mr Hobby, I've not had occasion to try bush painting MRP.

 

If your looking for an alternative to Tamiya or Mr Hobby then I'd recommend getting one of their sets, the individual pots workout (at least they used to) far cheaper.

 

by the way, DON'T try to use Mr Levelling Thinner with them, you'll spend a lot of time having to strip and thoroughly clean your airbrush (ask me how I know!) you can use water however I would recommend the UMP thinner as I've found that to work best.

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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