Carro Armato M13/40 - Tamiya - 1/35

[Nenad Ilijic]

Hello fellow modelers,

 

After finishing my Sahariana, I will be building a few more Italian vehicles as a part of my mission to build all vehicles used in North Africa during WW2.

 

This time, it will be the workhorse of the Axis armored forces in North Africa, Carro Armato M13/40.

 

The kit is Tamiya No. 35296 that I had in my stash for years. I'll add some Royal Model additions as well.

 

 

The particular tank I would like to build is the one with the registration number RE 3088, belonging to the Ariete division. This one:

 

 

However, I am unable to find any reference photos of this tank. If someone has a photo of this tank, please let me know. I guess there must be a photo of it somewhere if Tamiya selected this particular tank.

 

Also, I am a bit lost regarding the different versions of this tank. Royal Model instruction mentions Series 0, 1, and 2 of this tank, but I can not find any information about this in my reference material. It seems however that there are some differences between different series. For example, the earlier version had long fenders, while the later version had only short fenders at the front. But I have no idea what are all the differences and which version was RE 3088 I want to build because I don't have a reference photo of it.

 

If anyone can shed any light on this matter, that would be fantastic.

 

Cheers,

Nenad

[Alessandro_Jug]

Hi Nedad

here are some walkaround

 

https://www.modellismopiu.net/m+gallerie/main.php?g2_itemId=25155

 

https://www.modellismopiu.net/m+gallerie/main.php?g2_itemId=635151

 

https://www.modellismopiu.net/m+gallerie/main.php?g2_itemId=635634

 

https://www.modellismopiu.net/m+gallerie/main.php?g2_itemId=1370522

 

https://www.modellismopiu.net/m+gallerie/main.php?g2_itemId=25211

 

https://www.modellismopiu.net/m+gallerie/main.php?g2_itemId=250476

 

Be careful as far as I know there are some differences between M13/40 and M14/41

 

Cheers

Alessandro

[Milan Mynar]

Another nice model built by Nenad Ilijić is in the works.

[Massimo Novi]

Hello Nenad

 

you can find some basic information about modifications between M13 and M14 versions here:

https://www.onthewaymodels.com/articles/From M1340 to M1441.html

 

Regards

 

Massimo

[Nenad Ilijic]

Thank you guys. This is VERY helpful. Now, I just have to find some reference photos of RE 3088. Or any other serie 1 M13/40, because it seems that Tamiya kit is mostly based on series 1 version, and I would like to avoid too much conversion work.

 

Cheers,

Nenad

[Massimo Novi]

Hello Nenad

 

A 1st series M13/40 does not have the bolted plate on the turret roof, Also the rear radiator cover does not have the "mushroom" shape.

 

Regards

 

Massimo

[Bullbasket]

Hi Nenad. I don't know if this is what you are looking for, but it might help.

https://www.svsmgallery.com/Top-level/Walkarounds/Armored-Vehicles/Tanks-1915-to-1945/M13-40-Family

 

John.

[Nenad Ilijic]

2 hours ago, Massimo Novi said:

Hello Nenad

 

A 1st series M13/40 does not have the bolted plate on the turret roof, Also the rear radiator cover does not have the "mushroom" shape.

 

Regards

 

Massimo

 

Thank you Massimo.

 

Yes, it looks like that rear radiator cover and turret roof are Serie 2 or 3.

 

 

 

But fenders are Series 1.

 

 

But I guess that it will be easier to make the cut off the fenders and make them shorter than to change everything else.

 

Also, not sure what this is?

 

 

Instructions suggest it should be used for Series 1 and 2, although I'm not seeing it on any reference photos.

 

Cheers,

Nenad

[Hamden]

 

Interesting project I'll follow along if I may?

 

  Stay safe         Roger

[Massimo Novi]

21 hours ago, Nenad Ilijic said:

 

 

 

Also, not sure what this is?

 

 

Instructions suggest it should be used for Series 1 and 2, although I'm not seeing it on any reference photos.

 

Cheers,

Nenad

 

This is the mud clearing blade. Was mounted on later M14/41 versions..

 

About fenders, consider that for short fenders you have to add the reinforcing rim.

 

Regards

 

Massimo

Edited July 18, 2022 by Massimo Novi

[Nenad Ilijic]

11 hours ago, Massimo Novi said:

 

This is the mud clearing blade. Was mounted on later M14/41 versions..

 

About fenders, consider that for short fenders you have to add the reinforcing rim.

 

Regards

 

Massimo

 

Thanks for suggestion Massimo, will do that. Also, small oval inspection holes have to be drilled in the fenders, because they are not present there originally. Not sure if there's anything else.

[Nenad Ilijic]

I glued everything together first, and then removed the fenders. It was easier to fit everything together that way.

 

 

There are some hole have to be filled, and some sanding will be required, but overall, I'm not expecting any huge problems.

 

I'll have to use thin styrene sheet to cover the bottom of the superstructure. After removing fenders, there are some holes there.

 

 

I changed the hinges on the turret roof. The original hinges were very thick and quite unrealistic.

 

 

There are some missing rivets on the turret roof as well, I'll probably add them later.

 

Kit comes with two different drive sprockets. I think that left one is correct, but not 100% sure.

 

 

That's all for now.

 

Cheers,

Nenad

 

 

 

[Muchmirth]

You have a knack for picking really cool armour builds!! Another I have on the wish list… guess I’ll have to follow this as well!! Looks like it’s gonna be another great one.

[Kingsman]

If you haven't already seen it, you might want to have a look at this thread on Italian WW2 colours based on some amateur paint layer archaeology on Bovington's CV33.

 

[Bullbasket]

Neat work on those turret hinges Nenad. Excellent work.

 

John.

[Nenad Ilijic]

@Das Abteilung great thread and fantastic observations. Thanks for sharing.

 

I found this in one document describing differences between M13/40 variations:

 

 

And then:

 

 

It seems that M13/40 were never painted Giallo Sabbia Scuro? As I understand, they were painted Grigio-Verde Scuro until March 1942, and than paint was switched to Khaki Sahariana.

[Nenad Ilijic]

Hello everyone,

 

Few holes had to be filled. I used Mr. White putty first:

 

 

And then after sending with 180 sandpaper, applied some Gunze Dissolved putty for a finer result.

 

 

Now that there are no fenders, I had to add styrene sheet to the bottom of the superstructure and toolboxes.

 

I replaced plastic toolboxes with PE versions from Royal Model set, they look much nicer in my opinion and it's easier to make some minor damage to them.

 

 

It's a bit strange that Royal Model version is missing hinges, so I had to add them.

 

And then the tracks. They are link and length, not bad at all. Really easy to assemble, took me an hour or so. The only complain is that segments does not have uniform thickness (shorter segments are thicker).

 

 

I was a bit puzzled by direction. Some restored vehicles use the same direction as Tamiya instructions suggest, like this one:

 

https://www.svsmgallery.com/Top-level/Walkarounds/Armored-Vehicles/Tanks-1915-to-1945/M13-40-Family/M13-40-Aberdeen-Proving-Ground-by-Matthew-Flegal/i-DQZqcVW/A

 

While the other have there tracks mounted in the oposite direction:

 

https://www.svsmgallery.com/Top-level/Walkarounds/Armored-Vehicles/Tanks-1915-to-1945/M13-40-Family/Fiat-M13-40-Worthington-Tank-Park-Borden-Ontario-by-Andrey/i-8tF4NVN/A

 

It's the same with WW2 photos, there are both cases.

 

Anyway, I went with the direction as suggested by the instructions.

 

Wheels and tracks are just temporary attached. I'll attach them permanently after the painting. Tracks are build in two parts, cause it's easier to mount them that way because of the fenders:

 

 

I also added reinforcing rim on the fenders, by gluing Evergreen 0.25x0.5mm strips.

 

 

It looks like that the holes in the wheels need to be drilled 

Not sure if I'm going to do that...

 

 

Now, the mufflers. It looks to me that the Royal Model resin version is correct one for the Series 2/3 version that I will be building:

 

 

This should be "standard" muffler version. However, some sources suggest that there was also a third (last) version as well. Although, I am not convinced that was the case. Will have to dig a bit more.

 

That's it for now.

 

Cheers,

Nenad

[Nenad Ilijic]

Hello everyone,

 

So I tried to drill the holes in the roadwheels on one wheel, to see the difference. And to see is there any fun in doing this. And any sign of achievement satisfaction once done. There's none

So I'll leave them be.

 

 

 

Did some minor changes, like the antenna mount (original antenna base ia attached to the hull and it should not be, it should be movable).

 

 

Also, added some rivets. I'm don't lose too much sleep if some rivets are missing, but there were some here that are really visible and obvious, like these:

 

 

Also, tail light was missing, so I added it.

 

Attached everything I built so far and basically, everything is finished, and ready for priming. Roadwheels and some other details are just temporary attached for a photo with a white glue.

 

 

Here's what I plan to do with the stowage:

 

 

 

I'll probably add some jerrycans as well and tide them up with some rope. How do you guys deal with bubble remains like this? How do you fill them? Nothing I tried sticks to the resin.

 

 

I will probably finish this as this vehicle, or something similar. So overall Khaki Sahariana with Green Patches.

 

 

This one is 7th Battalion of Ariete division. Does anybody know what does this completely filled rectangle mean? And what would be the color? Does not have it in my list of markings? Maybe censored? Also, do you know when and where this photo was taken?

 

Cheers,

Nenad

[xebec]

I would would clean the resin part with acetone to make sure there isn't any release still on it- if nothing is sticking to it, that may be the problem. Try making some putty with CA- add a little talc, micro balloons, or acrylic powder (like dipping powder for fake fingernails) if you have any of that. If CA won't stick, it means you need to clean the release off for sure. Miliput maybe for the larger void. 

 

The dark marking is strange. The vehicle number looks black also- almost looks like battalion HQ , and HQ platoon? A little weird to see a vehicle and battalion number at the same time too, but I guess some units did that. 

[nheather]

Building one of these myself, just OOB, but was going to start a thread asking how to do the link and length.  I like how you have done yours, will probably copy that.

[Bullbasket]

Nice work Nenad. I think that the application of a dark wash to those road wheels will give the same appearance as if you had drilled them out.

 

John.

[Alfisti]

Hi Nenad,great build progress.I'd be a little cautious in placing the stowage on the front glacis plate,it looks like it may be impairing the drivers vision slot.

 

Dave.

[Nenad Ilijic]

23 hours ago, xebec said:

I would would clean the resin part with acetone to make sure there isn't any release still on it- if nothing is sticking to it, that may be the problem. Try making some putty with CA- add a little talc, micro balloons, or acrylic powder (like dipping powder for fake fingernails) if you have any of that. If CA won't stick, it means you need to clean the release off for sure. Miliput maybe for the larger void. 

 

The dark marking is strange. The vehicle number looks black also- almost looks like battalion HQ , and HQ platoon? A little weird to see a vehicle and battalion number at the same time too, but I guess some units did that. 

 

Thanks for the tip. CA trick worked!

 

1 hour ago, Alfisti said:

Hi Nenad,great build progress.I'd be a little cautious in placing the stowage on the front glacis plate,it looks like it may be impairing the drivers vision slot.

 

Dave.

 

Thanks Dave. This is interesting, because I was wondering the same, why Royal Model made it like this. But then, I read somewhere that it was actually quite usual practice to place sand bags over the driver vision slot, because it was considered a weak spot. I guess they were doing this when going into battle and they were using periscope? Like this:

 

[Nenad Ilijic]

While trying to figure out when and where this image was taken, I gathered some observations.

 

 

It seams that this was the painting and markings style from the early 1941 (March and April) for Ariete division, and that these were the tanks previously painted in Grigio-Verde that were sparingly repainted with Khaki Sahariana. So original color is actually Grigio-Verde overpainted with patches of Khakhi Sahariana. The decision was made in March 1941 that all tanks should be factory painted Khaki Saharaiana, so moving forward, new deliveries were probably already painted in base color of Khaki Sahariana, while old tanks were (sometimes) repainted. And regarding the markings, it seams that this marking style was changed sometimes during the 1941, battalion number was not used any more. Not sure when this happened, but I guess it was on September 1st 1941 when battalion was transferred to the 132nd Tank Infantry Regiment. On some photos, it looks like that previous markings were overpainted and new ones painted on the turret side, like this one:

 

 

I was not able to find some later examples with green patches. I guess that most of the tanks were painted plain Khaki Sahariana.

 

Also, the mushroom shaped radiator cover was introduced in May 1941 and it seems that it is highly unlikely that any VII battalion Ariete tank in this yellow with green spots camo style had a mushroom shaped radiator cover. So I should probably choose something else as a reference if I would like to be accurate.

 

Have in mind that I have VERY limited knowledge about this, and that this is almost entirely guesswork. So if any of you have any more information about this matter, it would be great if you would like to share it.

 

Cheers,

Nenad

[nheather]

Hi,

 

Question about the link and length tracks.

 

Did you build them around the wheels or did you build them flat first and then when the glue was still a little soft, formed them round the wheels.

 

I’m assuming the latter because I imagine that tracks would get stuck to the wheels using the first method.