Jump to content

That belongs in a museum! - 1/32 Ho-229 Zoukei Mura museum restoration


Recommended Posts

Hello fellow friends from britmodeller!

 

It's my first time ever posting here and I'm planning on building a Ho-229 by Zoukei Mura as a start. These late ww2 doomsday wunderwaffes wielded by the axis never cease to fascinate me. Maybe it's true that they were rushed by the desperate engineers who attempted a last ditch effort at turning the tide of the war, that they either came too late to do anything useful or cost questionable amount of resources, but the concepts behind them are still quite imaginative even in today's standards.

 

I'm planning on making this post as episode one of my wunderwaffe series including stuff like V2, Ho-229, Me-163, Me-262, Mammut tank, Kikka and more, starting from Ho-229 for its appearance in Wolfenstein: The New Order. Now that the kit has finally been restocked thanks to Volks USA, I grabbed two of them as soon as I can while they're still there. My plan is to build a heavily weathered Ho-229 like the one being restored in the Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum because... I love chipping paint with hair gel.

 

So here we are, admiring the box art of a Ho-229 that just scored a Lancaster kill in an interception: (Let's just ignore my messy workbench for once)

spacer.png

 

Interestingly enough, the box is a hybrid of top opener and side opener. Something I've only seen in Zvezda kits.

spacer.png

 

Instruction manuals from Zoukei Mura are really something else. Having this Bauanleitung laid on my workbench really makes me feel like a German aviation engineer in late April 1945, wondering how to get my job done while being bombarded by both B-17s during the day and Lancasters at night.

spacer.png

 

It's by far the most comprehensive, detailed, unambiguous instruction I've ever seen in my short model life... Or am I not supposed to disclose this STRENG GEHEIM Nur Für den Dienstgebrauch material here? Maybe I should remove this post before any Gestapos show up?

spacer.png

 

Since it's easy to find out-of-the-box sprue reviews and build reviews for this kit pretty much everywhere now, I won't be posting photos of all the sprues in the box. I'll show them when this build unfolds, of course.

  • Like 11
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

First off... the clear parts.

 

It's a quasi-full interior kit that has a lot of details on the inside, and Zoukei Mura is kind enough to provide these outer panels as clear parts. They're quite delicate and brittle, and given their enormous sizes the sprue gates are too wide for comfort. So instead of a sprue nipper I turned to my faithful Tamiya craft saw for helping me remove these parts from the sprue and clean the residues. To apply an even pressure on the clear parts to prevent shattering I sawed on both sides and worked bit by bit all the way to the center until the remaining gate residue can be safely removed with a blade.

Thankfully these parts survived this violent process. After a few sanding passes with the sanding sponges by Meng and DSpiae, this is what I ended up with.

spacer.png

 

One issue that I have with these clear parts though - They are smooth on the inside but quite frosty and bumpy on the outside. If you want a perfect, clear like glass frame to show off the interior details you're out of luck. I tried multiple polishing compounds on these parts for curiosity and concluded that, you'll need to sand the outside surfaces real hard multiple times and risk losing all the panel lines and rivets detail, or else you'll need to stare closely at the blurry interior through this frosty clear parts once you've done. And if you are planning on painting both sides of the clear parts like me, there's no backup regular grey parts. So... do tread carefully when dealing with these clear parts because there's no fallback option this time.

 

Oh and by the way, for the aircraft that appeared on the box art as the victim of this Ho-229, I do have the kit stashed recently as well...

spacer.png

Not quite certain if I can do the kit justice though. Guess I need a bit more motivation to make it the subject of my future posts.

Edited by BorisAlexandrov
  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, SafetyDad said:

Be careful with your weathering and chipping when you get there - much of the 229 was made of wood!

 

SD

Yup I'm aware of it. Thanks for the reminder!

 

Still kinda wondering how I can replicate the plywood texture though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll be watching this one with great interest. I've seen a couple Zoukei-Mura kits before and the detail they offer is staggeringly good. Having you build the entire engine including the internals is something else!

Edited by NMS Models
spelling
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Getting the frames together is surprisingly easy. The fit is so ludicrously good that I can simply leave the upper half here tied with tooth floss without applying cement.

spacer.png

 

One beautiful(?) thing about building a poorly maintained artifact in the museum is that you don't need to worry too much about painting corresponding colors for each part anymore. The German engineers rushed this prototype by welding steel pipes together into a frame, so vast majority of these would be painted and weathered as a whole, into rusty, dusty steel with a little bit of original RLM62 paint slowly biding its time.

spacer.png

 

Next up... the Jumo 004 engines!

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Biggles87 said:

Now there’s something we don’t see every day on BM. 

Something like that would take me about 18 month ( at least ) to build, how long do you reckon it’ll be?

 

John. 🇺🇦

Hi John,

 

I'm kinda wondering about it as well as this build unfolds. Given that I'm not quite a patient modeller, I doubt I'll take that long for this project haha.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 17/07/2022 at 03:47, BorisAlexandrov said:

Yup I'm aware of it. Thanks for the reminder!

 

Still kinda wondering how I can replicate the plywood texture though.

There are a few youtube videos on this subject that will add a few more hours to your project. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

They sure have gone the extra mile by making you build the compressor blades.

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

Drilled out the missing instruments on the instrument panel, like the one before restoration in the museum.

spacer.png

 

The blades, as well as the compressor housing.

spacer.png

 

Applied a layer of matt black primer from AK to each outer panels, and a thicc layer of AK burnt metal on the fuselage frames for a base coat before painting and weathering.

spacer.png

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I really should have developed the habit of taking more photos while I build, but chipping with hair gel is a really delicate process and quite time sensitive.

 

So all I have for now are these two photos:

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

To replicate the texture of worn plywood, I did multiple layers of airbrushing hair gel chipping in following order:

 

Primer: Black (AK interactive primer)

Base: XF-9 hull red + XF-7 flat red 1:1, to replicate the reddish under layer of plywood.

Hair gel: Heavy chipping effects from AK interactive. It's really frigging hard to find anything that can be a decent spray can substitute these days so I went lazy and used this instead.

Surface 1: XF-78 wooden deck tan + drops of XF-3 flat yellow, to replicate the yellowish, fresh, worn layer of the plywood, and chipped with brush and water.

Give it an abbbbuuuuundant amount of time to cure and set, at least 3 days. With the hair gel layer still present the grip of the paint is really bad. If you proceed without letting the paint to cure you'll risk chipping both surface layers off in the next steps.

Hair gel: Worn effects from AK interactive. We want our pattern to be a bit more subtle this time so I'm not using heavy chipping for this layer.

Surface 2: XF-24 dark grey + XF-2 white + XF-27 3:7:1, for the worn, faded RLM-75 Grauviolett paint, and chipped with water as well.

 

The metal panels (the ones that covers the engines) are painted with burnt iron color from Mig acrylic.

 

Another find: Andy ain't lying about Lysol in his latest video. This disinfectant is uncannily good at cleaning airbrushes from tamiya acrylic paint residues. Simply spray it into the cup and give it some rub with paper towels and your airbrush would be as good as new.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...