HM Bark Endeavour +++FINISHED+++

[Bertie McBoatface]

4 hours ago, ArnoldAmbrose said:

I'd recommend a second opinion on this

 

Here's one from Kark Marquardt, Anatomy of the Ship Endeavour

 

[Ray S]

@Bertie McBoatface, you had shown me that picture earlier in the thread, and I completely failed to check it - I most humbly apologise for that Your Honour.

 

I am now just about to check that knot link you gave me.

 

All the best,

 

Ray

[Bertie McBoatface]

2 hours ago, Ray S said:

you had shown me that picture earlier in the thread

 

I'd completely forgotten about that!😄

 

[Ray S]

Hello all! I am beginning to think there is a bit of a failing with this modeller. First up, I forgot that Bertie had posted a photo of the rigging plans for Endeavour, then there were numerous things at home and work I have forgotten recently, and now this:

 

Yesterday, I checked out the Link that Bertie had very kindly posted which would help me with my clove hitch and half hitch knots. It looked all very simple, so I went to my model room, and do you think I could remember the sequencing to do the knots? No. I watched the video again (my laptop is connected via LAN rather than WiFi so I cannot bring it to the bench), then promptly forgot again by the time I got back. I left it for the day.

 

This morning, I had a bit of a ponder to see what I could do, and then I remembered this website:

 

https://www.101knots.com/

 

I used this a few years ago when I wanted to do slip knots, and there, among the pages, were ones for the clove hitch and the half hitch, but with a lovely diagram which showed me what to do - so I worked my magic in 'Word' and copied them and now have a couple of pages of knot diagrams to help me out!

 

 

I have found the two half hitches a good compromise and here is why, another addition to my confusion. The illustration for the clove hitch shows the ropes going vertical. My masts will have the ropes going almost horizontal, and I could not visualise the turns to get it to work in that orientation. To help me, I used my trusty 'Helping Hands', and substituted a couple of spare runners for the masts, and tried 'rigging' them:

 

 

I tied two half hitches, and was able to deal with the knots reasonably well, and get my hands and fingers into position, and also be able to slide the knot around so it was central to the 'mast'. I think that is the way I will go, but, oh boy, do I need a lot of practice first!

 

It took me ages to work out, even with the diagram, how to do the slip knot, and I want to try that again to see if I can make that work as if the slip knot will move either way I can use it to tighten the thread with a little more control.

 

Anyway, thanks Bertie for the link, it was very helpful indeed.

 

I am off to do some more practice,

 

Ray

[Bertie McBoatface]

Don't worry about it Ray, I've been trying to learn to tie the bowline for quite some time. One day I know it, the next - I have no clue! 

 

Learning knots seems to involve thinking around corners, upside down for a time but one day you'll find that your fingers know it like they know how to tie a shoelace knot, with no thinking involved. I learned the clove hitch + half hitch when I was a teenager and haven't had to think about it since.

 

Your practice rig is an excellent idea which I will adopt when I start rigging Beagle.

 

[Ray S]

Bertie, the only knot I am fully competent at is the granny knot - and that is only sometimes! Even being in the Boy Scouts (a long, long time ago) did not help.

 

Cheers, Ray

[Bertie McBoatface]

29 minutes ago, Ray S said:

Bertie, the only knot I am fully competent at is the granny knot - and that is only sometimes! Even being in the Boy Scouts (a long, long time ago) did not help.

 

Cheers, Ray

 

Oh dear. What a knotty problem. 😆

 

Funnily enough, since I retired I have completely lost the ability to tie a necktie!

[ArnoldAmbrose]

18 hours ago, Bertie McBoatface said:

I've been trying to learn to tie the bowline for quite some time. One day I know it, the next - I have no clue! 

Gidday Bertie, I recommend you persevere with it. It's an extremely useful knot I find, although not (no pun intended) with modeling. I guess as with everything knots come easier to some than others. But like riding a bicycle (so they say) once you've mastered it you never forget. I suppose quite a few years in the naval reserve helped me. Knots and splicing, very useful, even outside of modeling.

     Although I don't do wood ship models I have a plastic Monogram Cutty Sark in the build queue. I'm soaking up tips for rigging here for when I get around to her, so thanks.

Oh and yeah, and I HATE wearing neckties, always have.

   Regards, Jeff.

[Ray S]

Hello all. Well, my knotty problem has not resolved itself. I know I am still in the very early stages of attempting knots, but I have got into all sorts of problems with my digital dexterity and visualisation of where the thread is supposed to go, so for this build I am continuing with the 'belt and braces' approach, and flooding anything that needs locking (thread-wise) with CA. I know it is cheating, but I will continue to practice doing the knots. I have a few other issues, like getting the thread to go where I want rather than in a different direction and actually being able to see clearly are the main ones.

This afternoon I tried to attach the mizzen stays with a double half-hitch and continually ended up with the thread looking like the first part of tying a shoelace - ie the first half of a granny knot. I looked and looked at my diagram and could not figure out where I was going wrong - it all went so well when practicing yesterday! CA and winding the thread around the mast solved it.

 

I have now started work on the running rigging. The running rigging is (was) un-tarred so was a different colour to the standing rigging. I have elected to use Gutermann polyester thread, colour 722 which is a Dark Beige, and I have now rigged the two bowsprit yards, and they stand out visually somewhat:

 

 

 

I am reasonably happy with how things have gone today (all things considered), and am especially pleased that there is no bowing of the bowsprit due to over-tensioning the lines. The next lines to do will prove interesting, they go from the rail over the aft end of the bowsprit, through the slots in the top and up to the yards, but by my reckoning they will interfere with the shrouds. I will have to think on that one.

 

This is how she looks just now:

 

 

Well, a fairly successful day, excepting the knot issue.

 

Thanks for looking, the likes and for the comments and encouragement,

 

Ray

[ArnoldAmbrose]

39 minutes ago, Ray S said:

CA and winding the thread around the mast solved it.

Gidday Ray, not everyone can do PE, not everyone can do authentic weathering, not everyone can do the authentic knots. Do what works for you. 👍 

     She looks great in the photos above.

Regards, Jeff.

[Faraway]

56 minutes ago, Ray S said:

I know it is cheating,

Ray.

I’ve got to disagree, it’s not cheating if you achieve your aim, I don’t believe there are any rules saying you MUST use authentic knots.

And anyway, who will ever know you didn’t use a clove hitch, half hitch or even a granny hitch. 
Just so long as the rigging doesn’t fall off after you’ve finished (that really is a pain, I know, I’ve been there)who cares.

Jon

[Bertie McBoatface]

1 hour ago, Ray S said:

I know it is cheating

 

I know that it's modelling, making a smaller and simplified version of something for the purpose of understanding it and for entertainment.

 

Anyway, you can't tell what sort of knots they are once they are pulled tight, not in 1/160 scale.

 

Each line added makes the total effect look better and better. Keep up the good work Ray.

[Bertie McBoatface]

I just thought of something Ray. Are you using beeswax on the thread?

 

If you pull the thread across the edge of a block of beeswax so that it cuts in and then pull it between your fingers, the warm wax infiltrates the fibres and the thread becomes a lot easier to work with. Instead of being springy and jumping out of your fingers, it's stiffer and stays where you put it much better. Knots are easier because you can form loops which stay there while you pass the ends through them. When you draw the knots tight or the thread around a block, the wax lubricates it so that it doesn't tangle. (You can still use CA to lock the knots if necessary.)

 

It also makes it look a lot less hairy.

[Ray S]

@ArnoldAmbrose, @Faraway and @Bertie McBoatface, thanks for those comments, they make me feel much better in my own mind now!

 

Bertie, no, I am not using beeswax, but it sounds as though it will be a very useful addition to the modelling armoury, I will check it out and see if I can get some. Thanks for the advice on that, I have found that the twist in the threads are quite awkward, and always seemed to be sending the thread in totally the wrong direction!

 

All the best everyone,

 

Ray

[Bertie McBoatface]

4 minutes ago, Ray S said:

Bertie, no, I am not using beeswax, but it sounds as though it will be a very useful addition to the modelling armoury, I will check it out and see if I can get some.

 

A small block will last you years and kill that twisting problem completely.

[Ray S]

Hello all,

 

I have done some Googling and found some beeswax blocks, I will get one ordered as soon as I can.

 

Before I toddled off to work this morning, I had time to get the next couple of rigging lines on. With my new-found confidence and not a knot in sight, I created this:

 

 

I had been concerned that these lines would interfere with the shrouds, but a dry fit found the line track missed them nicely. I started on the fore main yard, wrapped a bit of thread around that and CA'd it in place, took it up to the topsail yard, down through the top and on to the rail in front of the foremast. The instruction guide showed that the end of the line would go around the bar between the two side posts, but it was solid against the bowsprit, so I have taken the liberty of wrapping the line around the outside of the posts. It worked anyway. Again I managed to get the lines taut but not bending the yards.

 

 

The starboard-side lines have started to vanish in the photograph, I have completed both sides. There is another set which will go from the rail to the topgallant yard then down to the topsail yard, they too should miss the shrouds.

 

That is it today, short and sweet, but it is good progress for me now.

 

Ray

[theplasticsurgeon]

Looking really good Ray - like it.

 

[Bertie McBoatface]

1 hour ago, Ray S said:

That is it today, short and sweet, but it is good progress for me now.

 

Looks good, nice and even. 

 

I think short sessions may be the best way to stay motivated and avoid catastrophes while rigging. When I get to the rigging stage on Beagle, I'll start another build so that I have somewhere else to go between lines.

[longshanks]

Looking good Mate.

 

Saw this and thought we might all benefit .....

 

 

Kev

[Bertie McBoatface]

1 hour ago, longshanks said:

Saw this and thought we might all benefit .....

 

The things you learn from YouTube! 'Instrument ties', now I know what to call them. 

[Ray S]

This is slightly off topic, but I have just taken the plunge and ordered a number of items from Cornwall Model Boats which hopefully will assist me with my two wooden boats I had started and failed to continue!

 

Cheers,

 

one very happy Ray

[Bertie McBoatface]

12 minutes ago, Ray S said:

This is slightly off topic, but I have just taken the plunge and ordered a number of items from Cornwall Model Boats which hopefully will assist me with my two wooden boats I had started and failed to continue!

 

Cheers,

 

one very happy Ray

 

Hoooo-Ray!

 

Have I already asked you what the boats are?

[Ray S]

4 hours ago, Bertie McBoatface said:

 

Hoooo-Ray!

 

Have I already asked you what the boats are?

 

One is the Artesania Latina's Titanic's Lifeboat 1/35, the other is Artesania Latina's Clara May ketch from 1891 in 1/50. Both have been started badly, but I think I can correct at least some of the errors. Both will act as test pieces for a bigger build in the future, but I will not commit to buying anything until I have done these two. I am hoping that at least now having some guidance from you @Bertie McBoatface and also the inspiration from @longshanks, along with the books I have already shown in this log, and more importantly, some proper tools that I have oredered I may be able to make a better fist of them. I will start a WIP soon for the first.

 

I had some time today to continue with Endeavour. I have now got the first stages of rigging done on the foremast and mainmast:
 

 

 

 

The mizzenmast will be a little trickier when I have a go tomorrow afternoon, as I need to get the lines down behind the shrouds, so that will test me.

 

Thanks for looking,

 

Ray

[Bertie McBoatface]

2 hours ago, Ray S said:

One is the Artesania Latina's Titanic's Lifeboat 1/35, the other is Artesania Latina's Clara May ketch from 1891 in 1/50. Both have been started badly, but I think I can correct at least some of the errors. Both will act as test pieces for a bigger build in the future

 

I like the look of the lifeboat. In 1/35 it could be the centrepiece for a marvellous Dunkirk evacuation diorama. It's a good price too. Very nice.

 

Clara May looks very tasty too. Similar in scope to my Zulu with just enough of everything to get you going. The hull isn't too extreme, the rigging is enough to look good without being baffling and the deck details are just about right. 

 

Two good choices I'd say. I look forward to following the WIPs.

[Bertie McBoatface]

2 hours ago, Ray S said:

The mizzenmast will be a little trickier when I have a go tomorrow afternoon, as I need to get the lines down behind the shrouds, so that will test me.

 

 

You seem to be truckin' on steadily through the rigging now Ray. No drama, just good progress.