HM Bark Endeavour +++FINISHED+++

[Ray S]

Hello all!

 

I have been building this for a little while (about a month), and have decided rather belatedly to do a WIP for it, I hope you do not mind. I will update a few stages at a time to prevent overload!

 

Way back when I were a nipper, Father Christmas delivered of me a fine, large box under the spreading Christmas tree, and inside I found a lovely sailing ship! Now, I were only 8 or 9 at the time, and I found it was a bit of a 'challenge', so my plucky dad built it for me. The kit was, from memory, moulded in a Cadbury's Milk Chocolate-coloured plastic. Dad did not paint it, but it still looked the bees knees to me, especially as the ship even had a crew of five supplied. And pre-moulded ratlines that he had to cut out and fit.

 

A few years ago, I decided to revisit my childhood and have a go at Endeavour myself. I started painting it with oil paints to try and replicate a wood effect, that worked quite well, and then I decided to try something that I had read about in a book, and see if I could make the ratlines myself. I modified the appropriate parts, fitted the vertical ratline rigging, then found I was not dextrous enough to tie the knots. It was sat up on my hi-fi's speaker for years until it met a sticky end.

 

Last year, my son gave me another kit of Endeavour as a birthday present, in the glorious red box that has become Airfix's trademark:

 

 

I spent a lot of time abetween being given the kit and starting, because I did not want to make a mess of this one! The parts this time were moulded in a 'Caramac' chocolate bar colour, and I think they are beginning to show their age now. There was quite a bit of flash, lots of mould seams, and a few parts were warped a bit (one mast top was bent almost to the point of being broken). A lot of water has gone under the bridge since I was 8 or 9, and I felt a lot more confident this time. I decided to keep things simple, go pretty much out of the box, and add very little. An no, I was not going to hand-knot the ratlines, I would fight the 'rigging machine'!

 

The first battle was to get the hull halves together, after I had confirmed the the deck would fit afterwards:

 

 

As you see, a little assistance was needed, along with lashings of ginger beer Revell Contacta cement and a good amount of time to let it set. I then had cause to use my newly purchased clamps courtesy of Antics Gloucester:

 

 

I had been on the lookout for these clamps for quite a long time and was right chuffed when I found them! There was a little filler needed at the front and back of the deck, and to remove a couple of ejection pin marks on the transom:

 

 

 

At this point in the instructions, Airfix suggest that the attachment points are fitted for the ratlines, so I got the base painting done (Humbrol 26 enamel):

 

 

These have seen better days - one is broken, one is poorly moulded and looks like it is coming apart at the seams, and quite a few were bent. I decided that I would be asking for trouble to fit them now, so I left them off. I got on with the paintwork instead, using Humbrol enamels again all thinned with Naphtha thinners, and they behaved very nicely indeed.

 

 

Thankfully the black waterline section was very easy to mask, but the black along the railings was a little more time consuming. I have to admit I am not sure if I have interpreted the painting instructions correctly or not, but I like the way it looks.

 

 

I popped some satin varnish onto the cabin windows as I suspect that the glass would not have been that shiny. Next task was to paint the white hatch surrounds, these were done with Revell Satin White acrylic, and they only needed two brushed coats - it did seem to work very well!

 

 

It was also the first time that I had masked off a ship's deck to paint details. At least the shapes were quite easy to mask, and I had space to work with!

 

So far it had been a fun build. I will not be dealing with any accuracy issues, and in the main, not dealing with any improvements at all.

 

More soon, thanks for looking,

 

Ray

Edited August 11, 2022 by Ray S
Edited Title

[Faraway]

I’ve often looked at this kit, but always seem to find an excuse not to get it. So, I shall follow along and be inspired by you. 
Jon

[Ray S]

Back again!

 

After unmasking the deck and painting a few extra detail parts on the hull, I now had:

 

 

I had retouched some of the paintwork, and added the gold window surrounds along with the black its under the ratline attachment points. This was a big moment for me as the other month at our model club I had learnt that it was possible to dip a paint brush into some water, then into acrylic paint and lo! you have instantly thinned paint. It worked pretty well, and the paint still covered nicely. It is certainly getting some use now, that idea is.

 

I then started adding a lot of the deck furniture, although the ship's boat was still only dry-fitted at this time:

 

 

I chose then to err from the instruction build sequence and rig the ship's wheel and rudder while I could still get to it. I used InfiniModels rigging thread for this and rigged right and left separately. CA came to the rescue, as did a little bit of Anglo-Saxon language as I was trying to get the thread over the moulded pulleys, but pluck won the day and it was done:

 

 

Personally, I do not think that would be allowed these days, trip hazard, don't you know. While I was still in the 'do it now while you can reach' mode, I got some rope onto the anchor winch, down into the hatch, and out through the leads in the bow:

 

 

I have left the anchors off for the time being, you know what would happen otherwise...

 

Then it was the time to get to grips with the thing that I was a little nervous of:- the rigging machine. I had used these quite a lot in the past when I built models like the big Heller Superbe and their Elizabethan (and some more Airfix ships - HMS Price was one if I recall) so I was not a newcomer, but I have not got such good eyes, nor the hand control I used to have. I did manage to wind and glue the first set of ratlines though:

 

 

I had forgotten just how much thread was needed for this, and the concentration needed to add the 504 glue spots to each crossover of thread. I used medium CA for that, having experimented with liquid glue, gum Arabic and thinned PVA. I cut them out, then fitted them to the foremast. A hole was moulded into the rigging points, it needed enlarging and I was able to thread the first and last verticals through those, then get the top aligned and glued with CA. I then clipped a bulldog clip onto the threads that went through the holes to tighten them, CA'd the thread into place and let that set. I could then trim and CA the remaining threads to their dead-eyes and the ratlines were done, with very little sag:

 

 

One or two of the horizontal threads needed a retouch of CA, but all in all, they held up well. On my next sailing ship build I will change the thread I use, as the thicker vertical thread are too 'fluffy' for my liking, and I think I will also drill out holes for all the verticals, not just the first and last. The only upgrade I have done is to add those black bands on the masts - they are just strips of 1mm masking tape wrapped around the mast and held in place by the enamel paint. The platform on the mast is only dry-fitted. I decided to add all the masts and fit their ratlines before working upwards, and will put the spars on after the mast uprights are done, with the idea being that I was less likely to poke an eye out that way.

 

I think I am now pretty much up to date with this, and thoroughly enjoying this nostalgia trip.

 

Thanks for looking, and I hope you did not mind me posting this a little late.

 

Ray

[theplasticsurgeon]

Rigging looking good Ray!   Looking forward to seeing this one completed.

 

[Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies]

51 minutes ago, Ray S said:

Attachment points are fitted for the ratlines, so I got the base painting done (Humbrol 26 enamel):

 

 

Hi Ray, if interested, these are called chainplates. The ratlines are just the light horizontal ropes tied as ladder rungs. The big heavy ropes going from chainplates to the masts are the shrouds, which are the most important part of the standing rigging. The shrouds transfer all of the motive force applied to the masts by the sails and connect it to the hull via the chainplates. The shrouds are effectively tow-ropes dragging the hull along behind the masts, which is why they're always angled backwards from the masts.

[Courageous]

Everything is looking good and those forward 'rats' look particularly well done.

 

Stuart

[Ray S]

7 minutes ago, Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies said:

 

Hi Ray, if interested, these are called chainplates. The ratlines are just the light horizontal ropes tied as ladder rungs. The big heavy ropes going from chainplates to the masts are the shrouds, which are the most important part of the standing rigging. The shrouds transfer all of the motive force applied to the masts by the sails and connect it to the hull via the chainplates. The shrouds are effectively tow-ropes dragging the hull along behind the masts, which is why they're always angled backwards from the masts.

 

@Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies, I am always keen to learn, thank you for the explanation, it is very much appreciated!

21 minutes ago, theplasticsurgeon said:

Rigging looking good Ray!   Looking forward to seeing this one completed.

 

 

Thanks Tim!

 

I forgot to mention that Tim ( @theplasticsurgeon) very kindly gave me a tip about the rigging machine at last month's Cub meeting - he told me that it really helps if you put a 'spacer' along the bottom section of the rigging machine as it lifts the shrouds up and they make a better contact with the ratlines, aiding gluing. That is why in one of the photographs in my previous post has a white bit of plastic along the bottom of the machine. To give a little more aid, I also slid another spacer along the top too. Thanks Tim, it was a great idea!

 

11 minutes ago, Courageous said:

Everything is looking good and those forward 'rats' look particularly well done.

 

Stuart

 

Thanks @Courageous, I was concerned that I would not get them taut enough. A while ago I was building a test Heller sailing ship which I picked up for £1.99 and could not get them right - I did try the 'DIY' rigging on that too, but it also failed.

 

I would really like to do well with this one, as I have the Heller Le Soleil Royal (1/100), the Imai Cutty Sark (1/120) and the Imai 1/160 Galeass to do too. I think I have recaught the sailing ship bug!

 

Thanks for the comments, looks and likes, and especially for Jamie, the education.

 

Ray

[Ray S]

58 minutes ago, Faraway said:

I’ve often looked at this kit, but always seem to find an excuse not to get it. So, I shall follow along and be inspired by you. 
Jon

 

Hello @Faraway, it is well worth getting (in my opinion). I know I have mentioned a few issues with it, but there is a nice kit in there. This one came with a load of acrylic paints ( I have not used them) and two paint brushes and I found one of those is very good indeed, nicely pointed and has not gone blobby yet and it had given me some very fine control of the paint. Just be prepared for a bit of cleaning up of the moulds. If you do treat yourself, I hope you enjoy it as much as I am.

 

Ray

[Courageous]

10 minutes ago, Ray S said:

Heller Le Soleil Royal (1/100), the Imai Cutty Sark (1/120) and the Imai 1/160 Galeass to do too

And I have an Airfix Bounty in the stash, not sure when I'll get round to do it though...

 

Stuart

[SallysDad]

Impressive!!

[Ray S]

@SallysDad thanks for that comment!

 

A few days ago, it was time to make up the next set of ratlines and shrouds, so I proceeded just as I always have. I got the shrouds wound around the rigging machine all okay as I always leave the thread on the reel and cut it when the last shroud has been completed. The ladder rung section though is quite a different kettle of fish, as some complex winding is needed to drop down a layer and I have not figured out a way to do that while the thread is still attached to the reel. I have to cut a length of thread and wind it loose. This time though, I had chapped hands (my job is as a washer-up in a pub kitchen) and the thread kept sticking to my hands, and to compound the problem, it kept on self-knotting too! I said 'Oops' more than once, and may possibly have recalled some Anglo-Saxon language (in my head only of course). I had to cut the thread a number of times, but eventually I had my set of rigging for the lower main mast. I just could not face adding the CA that day to secure the threads.

 

Cue today, and I felt in a better frame of mind and set too with a will. Only to find that due to the heat we are currently experiencing in the West Country that the CA was going off rather quickly. Still, it was all done after a couple of hours, and I was able to fit one side to the Endeavour.

 

 

My trusty bulldog clips came in handy again. One thing this image shows is that the shrouds do not really line up with the dead-eyes(?). I think Airfix have given the wrong notch numbers to wind the shrouds around. The small link at the left of the 7 shrouds takes a line up to the top of the mast. After this had been done, I used CA to lock the lines with the clips attached, then trimmed and CA'd the others.

 

 

 

I will trim the remaining threads tomorrow after checking that no more CA id needed to keep them in place. These are the last of the many-threaded rigging needed, all the others are smaller quantities of lines, and so I hope they will go easier. I will get the other side of the main mast done tomorrow, and then do the lower mizzen rigging.

 

I may well paint the hinges for the hatches on the hull sides matt black, I think they need something.

 

That is it for now, thanks for looking and for the comments.

 

Ray

[ArnoldAmbrose]

10 hours ago, Ray S said:

I think Airfix have given the wrong notch numbers to wind the shrouds around.

Gidday Ray, Airfix have been known to make the odd mistake. I did their Revenge many years ago and the dead-eyes of the fourth mast didn't point to the masthead. They were at the wrong angle. I switched sides and they lined up much better. Possibly a simple error in the part numbers. I believe the same error was done for the outboard screws of their HMS Repulse.

     What you've done looks very good. Regards, Jeff.

[Ray S]

10 hours ago, ArnoldAmbrose said:

Gidday Ray, Airfix have been known to make the odd mistake. I did their Revenge many years ago and the dead-eyes of the fourth mast didn't point to the masthead. They were at the wrong angle. I switched sides and they lined up much better. Possibly a simple error in the part numbers. I believe the same error was done for the outboard screws of their HMS Repulse.

     What you've done looks very good. Regards, Jeff.

 

This model has the dead-eyes keyed so they only fit one side, which I thought was a great idea! The location lugs are different distances apart, but I know what you mean. I will accept what I have done, and thanks for your kind comment.

 

Today has seen a little progress. The port side rigging web has been added, it did not go on quite so taut as the other side, but it will have to do. I know what I did wrong - on the other three sets I glued the top of the shrouds to the mast in the right(ish) place, then tied a loop of thread around the shrouds and CA'd that, then added the bulldog clips to tauten the shrouds and the CA the lower sections. This time, dummy tied the top, then CA'd after adding the clips and the shrouds probably slipped just a little. Lesson learnt.

 

 

The two lookout platforms are still just dry-fitted, but Endeavour is just about looking the part now.

 

That is it for today, it is short and sweet,

 

Thanks for looking, the likes and comments,

 

Ray

[Bertie McBoatface]

I think it's coming along fabulously. Thanks for the back story of your history with the kit, very entertaining.

 

Was the rigging machine included in the kit? It seems to have worked well.

 

Finally, I love her pink bottom. I'm trying to decide how to represent a coppered hull and pink seems a lot more realistic than shiny polished copper paint, though it's an unusual sight on a model.

[Ray S]

15 hours ago, Bertie Psmith said:

I think it's coming along fabulously. Thanks for the back story of your history with the kit, very entertaining.

 

Was the rigging machine included in the kit? It seems to have worked well.

 

Finally, I love her pink bottom. I'm trying to decide how to represent a coppered hull and pink seems a lot more realistic than shiny polished copper paint, though it's an unusual sight on a model.

 

Thanks for the comment Bertie. The rigging machine was included, and seems to have been since the Heller/Airfix tie up way back when. It does seem a good idea, but sailing ship purists tend not to like it. I have to admit there are times when I don't either! However, it can produce shrouds that look reasonable. I find I can only deal with one set of shrouds a day, especially when it comes to gluing the lines together.

 

As far as gluing lines together is concerned, Airfix and Heller both suggested coating the threads with liquid glue. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what sort of liquid glue? I have tried liquid poly (didn't expect it to work but you never know), gum arabic and thinned PVA, but had no luck with any of them.

 

I think my camera is playing tricks - the hull is painted Humbrol 70 Brick Red and in my photographs always looks too light. I am sure I have read somewhere that a lot of the underwater sections of these older ships were actually painted white.

 

Cheers and all the best,

 

Ray

[Bertie McBoatface]

40 minutes ago, Ray S said:

 

Thanks for the comment Bertie. The rigging machine was included, and seems to have been since the Heller/Airfix tie up way back when. It does seem a good idea, but sailing ship purists tend not to like it. I have to admit there are times when I don't either! However, it can produce shrouds that look reasonable. I find I can only deal with one set of shrouds a day, especially when it comes to gluing the lines together.

 

I've never see that kind of thing in a kit before, though there are comercial versions like the 'loom-a-line'. Your results are miles better than the old PVC shrouds that were in the old kits I remember.

 

40 minutes ago, Ray S said:

As far as gluing lines together is concerned, Airfix and Heller both suggested coating the threads with liquid glue. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what sort of liquid glue? I have tried liquid poly (didn't expect it to work but you never know), gum arabic and thinned PVA, but had no luck with any of them.

 

I thought you were using CA on the joints between the shrouds and ratlines. I really can't see anything else working except perhaps clear nail varnish? You can thin it with acetone and let it run into the fibres, I believe. I have some but I haven't tried it yet. It's a new idea to me. I've become allergic to CA recently so I needed an alternative for any big jobs.

 

40 minutes ago, Ray S said:

I think my camera is playing tricks - the hull is painted Humbrol 70 Brick Red and in my photographs always looks too light. I am sure I have read somewhere that a lot of the underwater sections of these older ships were actually painted white.

 

You're right. I just looked it up and Endeavour wasn't copper-bottomed - too early I think. I suppose they would have used red or white lead based paint to try to keep the weeds off as long as poss.

 

[Ray S]

Hi Bertie, I am using CA to do the shrouds and ratlines, but I would prefer it if I could find something a little safer. I have to get very close in when I am gluing these, and even though I have the window open, I am a little concerned about the fumes. I try not to do the lot in one sitting.

 

Today has seen some significant progress. I glued the mizzen masts shrouds and ratline (taking time out for a cuppa half way through!) and then got them glued onto the mast. I did one side, and then found I had a bit of an issue - 

 

 

Crumbs! I can really see how hairy my cotton thread is in that pic! I had got some thick Gutermann thread for this originally, but found that I did not have enough, so I went to our local haberdashery and asked for some more. 'We have not got that, but do have this, it is just as good' I was told, but no, 'Sew Easy' thread is MUCH hairier. For my next build, I will track down Gutermann thread even if it means going to Hobbycraft. I did see a link by @longshanks for thread from Cornwall Model Boats but these models need so much, and CMB seem to only do 5 or 10 meter lengths and it got rather pricey, but I would be willing to pay that when I build a very good kit. The horizontal thread is Gutermann, and is so much better than the Sew Easy stuff.

 

The shrouds came down and led over the balustrade, and also would mean that one of the cannons would be shooting through the lines! I thought I had done something wrong as the instructions suggest the shrouds come down between the cannon pillars, so I had a look online for other Airfix Endeavour builds and, thank goodness, I found that their builds also showed this issue. Phew! These shrouds lined up better with the dead-eyes than the main- and fore-mast ones did, but I think I found out why a little earlier. I don't think I glued the shrouds on high enough under the lookout platforms, they are about 1/2" too low, and that would probably make up the difference. I will put it down as my fault.

 

Anyway, once the threads had been securely glued and tidied up, I then fitted the platforms, and also the middle section of the foremast:

 

 

You can really see how the mizzen mast shrouds are getting bent over the side rails. The dead-eyes on all eight of the chainboards were warped to some extent or other, and maybe they had all been warped inwards slightly so the angle down from the mast was not correct, or possibly it was due to me not fitting the shrouds quite high enough up the mast - you can see just how low they are in this view.. I still need to fit the broken dead-eye to that aft port chainboard, the shroud is CA'd to the dead-eye stub so I should hopefully just be able to pop the dead-eye onto the thread.

 

She progresses, but I must remember to paint the bowsprit front section - I completely forgot when I was painting the next levels to the masts.

 

Thanks for looking, the likes and comments, along with the much needed advice that has been kindly given,

 

Ray

[Martian]

5 hours ago, Bertie Psmith said:

 

I've never see that kind of thing in a kit before, though there are comercial versions like the 'loom-a-line'. Your results are miles better than the old PVC shrouds that were in the old kits I remember.

 

 

I thought you were using CA on the joints between the shrouds and ratlines. I really can't see anything else working except perhaps clear nail varnish? You can thin it with acetone and let it run into the fibres, I believe. I have some but I haven't tried it yet. It's a new idea to me. I've become allergic to CA recently so I needed an alternative for any big jobs.

 

 

You're right. I just looked it up and Endeavour wasn't copper-bottomed - too early I think. I suppose they would have used red or white lead based paint to try to keep the weeds off as long as poss.

 

In his account of his voyage in Endeavour Cook mentions painting the hull white when the ship was ashore and being repaired and cleaned on the east coat of Australia. He wrote that he considered white (presumably lead) paint superior to other treatments. I would imagine that this is why the current sailing replica of Endeavour has white undersides.

 

Martian 👽

[Bertie McBoatface]

On the real thing the shrouds do up through the slots in the tops, the look out platforms, before going around the masts.  That would make your attachment a bit higher still and further out too. That would maybe make the shrouds clear the bulwarks on their way to the chainplates. Probably too late to worry about it now though. It’s not something that many people are aware of. 
 

Sometimes a wash with diluted pva will make the hairiness go away BUT sometimes it makes it worse. It depends on the thread so experiment first. 
 

In the photos your model really looks like wood. It’s really smart. 

[Faraway]

34 minutes ago, Ray S said:

I am using CA to do the shrouds and ratlines, but I would prefer it if I could find something a little safer. I have to get very close in when I am gluing these, and even though I have the window open, I am a little concerned about the fumes. I try not to do the lot in one sitting.

A while ago, I used a lot of CA and developed a sensitivity to it, which made life a bit difficult when adding PE and building resin kits. Then I heard about odourless CA and gave it ago.

No more symptoms at all. 
Give it a go.

Jon

[Ray S]

On 7/13/2022 at 3:36 PM, Bertie McBoatface said:

On the real thing the shrouds do up through the slots in the tops, the look out platforms, before going around the masts.  That would make your attachment a bit higher still and further out too. That would maybe make the shrouds clear the bulwarks on their way to the chainplates. Probably too late to worry about it now though. It’s not something that many people are aware of. 
 

Sometimes a wash with diluted pva will make the hairiness go away BUT sometimes it makes it worse. It depends on the thread so experiment first. 
 

In the photos your model really looks like wood. It’s really smart. 

 

Thanks Bertie! I know you are right on that about the shrouds. When I tried to do this by tying my own ratlines onto the shrouds on a previous build, that was the way I did them. I will experiment another time with the PVA, thanks for that advice. I had read about running the thread through beeswax, I think it was in the Airfix Victory book.

 

On 7/13/2022 at 3:44 PM, Faraway said:

A while ago, I used a lot of CA and developed a sensitivity to it, which made life a bit difficult when adding PE and building resin kits. Then I heard about odourless CA and gave it ago.

No more symptoms at all. 
Give it a go.

Jon

 

Hello Jon, and thank you too for that suggestion, I will have a look around and see what I can get.

 

Yesterday, I rediscovered the way to run the thin cotton around the rigging machine and not knot it all back up again. I did the upper foremast shrouds in pretty much record time for me and got them CA'd and fitted to the mast quite rapidly. This time though I placed them higher up to just under where the crosstrees(?) went, and found that when I trimmed the excess at the top, the latticework still fitted as it should. 

 

This morning, I added section 2 of the main mast and the upper section of the mizzen, and then lost my ability to run the thin thread through the rigging loom, presumably it had vanished and been eaten by the carpet monster. I had got half of the horizontals done when I ran out of this particular length of cotton, so I tied off what was left, prepped another length, then found that what I had done had come loose. Undeterred, I reset the threads, popped a locking thread on it to secure it all, and then proceeded to wind the new thread - whereupon it all tangled up, I could not un-knot it, and also found the already-done stuff had come loose - again. I gave up, and went to work.

 

When I came home, I redid the whole lot , and an hour later I had my shrouds and ratlines wound and CA'd ready for fitting another day, quitting while I was ahead. It is things like that which make me really love model building - you often get a spanner in the works, but oh boy! what a great feeling when it all works in the end.

 

This is where Endeavour is at the moment:

 

 

 

My newly completed shrouds will go onto the main mast, and there will only be one set left to do afterwards, for the mizzen mast. I will then find out if I made a mistake leaving off the spars until the shrouds were on, but I am positive I would have knocked them off or put my eye out while trying to get the shrouds fitted otherwise.

 

Anyway, that is it for now, thanks for looking in and for all the comments and likes, they are all very much appreciated.

 

All the best everyone, Ray

[theplasticsurgeon]

Getting there Ray.  Looking good.

[Bertie McBoatface]

1 hour ago, Ray S said:

oh boy! what a great feeling when it all works in the end.

 

Absolutely. 

 

And the harder it is to get there the better the feeling

[Bertie McBoatface]

3 hours ago, Ray S said:

leaving off the spars

I think it’s a sensible way to proceed. The yards and gaffs etc are moveable, part of the running rigging. The masts and standing rigging are erected  first on the real thing too. It would be impossible not to. 

(The word ‘Spars’ includes the masts by the way.)

 

[ArnoldAmbrose]

Gidday Ray, you're doing very well with the shrouds and ratlines. They look very good. Yes, sometimes you have to walk away, and come back to it later.

Regards, Jeff.