5./JG26 1/24 Scale Bf109E

[Bonkin]

I started this kit some years ago but home and work life have kept me too busy to do much. I'm not a particularly skilled either so when I have had time at the bench progress has been very slow. Inspired by the excellent work showcased here by others, I figured it was time to reveal my efforts and hopefully pick up a tip or two along the way. I'm very much a large scale fan (all of the kits in my stash being 1/24 scale), and I want it to represent an aircraft of the fifth staffel of Jagdgeschwader 26... more about this later.

 

Obviously, this is the kit I'm using:

Sadly I didn't get pictures of the early work... but here is my start on the cockpit:

 

 

I recognise that something will have to be done about the wheel wells... but I have cut out the flaps so that I can set them in a part down position.

 

 

Being somewhat enthusiastic to test out my new razor saw, I realised that I hadn't quite thought through exactly how I was going to deal with these once I'd cut them off! It is a bigger gap than I'd imagined it would be 🤨.

 

And as for these awful exhausts... they definitely have to go.

 

 

[Bonkin]

Some further pictures of progress...

 

Alongside the cockpit I built the engine and then did a dry fit with the fuselage halves and panels fitted. It was at this point that I realised how poorly fitting these were and why the many 1/24 109 build threads I had eagerly consumed to this point had all reported fit issues.

 

 

Naturally my optimism that this kit would somehow be different had faded by this point...

 

... I mean, seriously?

 

Still, it is an old kit - and the main issue seems to stem from the thickness of the main engine cover being just too thick - so my hope was that with copious amounts of sanding and thinning of the under surface of the cowl, it would no longer be touching the top of the gun mounts on the engine and would then sit flush. 

 

... which would remove this gap around the cowl.

 

Regarding the exhausts, I figured that I could glue two strip styrene channel pieces together to create a rectangular tube with a horizontal line which may, one painted, give a realistic effect.

 

And to remove the moulded exhausts I used my dremel to carefully cut the pieces out.

 

Care had to be taken along the top surface because here there is little thickness.

 

A test fit of a replacement exhaust...

 

... and squeezing the rest in bit by bit.

 

Almost there... a little more sanding should remove the signs of the original mould.

 

As per the topic title, my aim is to create a representation of a 5./JG26 machine. My primary reason for doing so is because as a member (currently not active) of the Air Combat Group, we re-enacted the full Battle of Britain and, as a pilot flying a Hurricane for 501 Squadron, JG26 were a very much respective bunch of guys, not just for their mastery of the 109 and air combat, but for their dedication to training and the online community. The fifth staffel were one of the founding groups for ACG and having always admired the 109, I felt it only right that I should have one of their machines in my display cabinet.

 

The video below is a short trailer for an ACG film I made many years ago... and features one of the 5./JG26 109s that I hope to represent in plastic.

 

 

Thanks for looking.

[Pete in Lincs]

It's not often you see this one being built nowadays. If memory serves, the cowling fit is even worse if you fit the engine.

That's a great little film you've made there. Thanks for sharing.

[Bonkin]

On 10/07/2022 at 16:01, Pete in Lincs said:

It's not often you see this one being built nowadays. If memory serves, the cowling fit is even worse if you fit the engine.

That's a great little film you've made there. Thanks for sharing.

Cheers Pete. That was just the trailer... the full film can be seen here below - but be warned it is over 30 minutes long!

 

 

I can't believe it is over 8 years old now. When I get around to building my 1/24 Spitfire and Hurricane you can probably guess where my inspiration for paint schemes may come from .

 

Having tackled the exhausts it was onto the wheel wells... 

 

My technique for this was to carefully measure the gap between the lower and upper surface and then to translate this onto strip styrene - from which I cut out the internal shapes. I then glued it into bit by bit into place, bracing it with strengtheners as I went.

 

Only after I did this did I see a YouTube video where they fitted the lining only after the wing halves were glues... which in hindsight would have been perhaps a bit easier.

 

To get the flared end I just cut, braced and filled.

 

(a bit like a lath and plaster ).

 

Next up, assembly of the wing halves.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

[Mattlow]

Hi

 

Nice work so far.

 

If you study photos of 109Es during the war, you'll see that the upper rear of the cowling wasn't a snug fit. There was a gap and I recall it being mentioned that this aided cooling. See below, plenty of similar images on the net..

 

 

Matt

[mick]

GREAT WORK

[Bonkin]

21 hours ago, Mattlow said:

Hi

 

Nice work so far.

 

If you study photos of 109Es during the war, you'll see that the upper rear of the cowling wasn't a snug fit. There was a gap and I recall it being mentioned that this aided cooling. See below, plenty of similar images on the net..

 

 

Matt

Cheers. That is a really good point and I must admit, something I had not noticed before. The cowling probably will match this profile but just needs thinning down a bit.

 

21 hours ago, mick said:

GREAT WORK

Thanks Mick.

[Bonkin]

Having built up the wheel wells it was time to assemble the wing halves. These went together reasonably easily... just a small bit of warping to correct (which was quite lucky for this old kit).

 

 

With the plenty of reference pictures around it was a simple job to just add the extra strips on the underside of the wing wheel well. I used small amounts of Vallejo Plastic Putty to fill the gaps. I also drilled out the gun barrels... so they at least had some resemblance to a machine gun and not a couple of flat ended poles.

 

 

The starboard wing received similar treatment...

 

Both sides complete...

 

And sprayed up  :

 

Next up, assembly of the fuselage halves.

 

Thanks for looking.

[jackroadkill]

Wow, she's looking grand!

[Bonkin]

On 18/07/2022 at 18:29, jackroadkill said:

Wow, she's looking grand!

Cheers. Progress is slow but she is coming together...

 

 

I glued the two halves together with judicious amounts of force and clamps... keeping the front cowl taped in to try to keep everything together.

 

The fit around the front underside, as you can see, wasn't great... but nothing which could not be sorted with filler.

 

 

A quick check that the spinner fits and is central... all ok .

 

And plenty of filler...  :

 

I also cut out all the openings on the side cowling covers. Quite surprising just how many holes there are in a 109 nose!

 

Thanks for looking. Next up will be the instrument panel and wings.

[Bonkin]

Having attempted to fit the undercarriage legs I realised that some considerable force would be necessary if I was to follow the build instructions precisely. Also, not wanting a "toy" with moveable undercarriage I decided that an appropriate "upgrade" would be these rather nice metal versions by Scale Aircraft Conversions:

 

Since they are a little pliable (could be bent into shape), my thinking was that I would be able to superglue the metal ones into place and I would then be able to make minor adjustments forward-aft and port-starboard to get them in the right place. Time will tell...

 

With time at the bench I fitted the guns on top of the engine and then spent some more time thinning out the engine cowl:

 

I'm not sure what the part is that fits between the two guns but it definitely interferes with the underside of the cowl.

 

Sitting a little better now... 

 

In other work it was the instrument panel - using the rather excellent Yahu 109E version. Where I failed at this was in the metal bending... I really struggled with the photoetch and found that the detail came off during my clumsy attempts to bond it into place. My solution was to cut some of the parts off of the plastic panel and use those instead.

 

I also had to manually touch up some areas with paint...

 

... but I think I may have gotten away with it  :

 

Lower panel fitted:

 

And then finally it was on with the wings. These required a bit of effort to get the dihedral correct - and a bit of strategic plasticard: 

 

 

 

Slowly getting there. Next up will be the tail, canopy and sanding off those horrible rivets.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

[Bonkin]

Progress is slow but she's coming along nicely and I'm really enjoying the build. Thought I'd try out some Mondex canopy masks... normally I'd just use Tamiya tape but I figured I would give it a go to see how much difference it made. The canopy was masked inside and out...

 

 

Then sprayed up with a base coat and dry fitted to the model - at which point I found that the front fairing wasn't fitting too well.

 

A quick dip in boiling water improved things somewhat and rather surprisingly the masks stayed in place.

 

Next up the undercarriage got super glued into position. The fit here wasn't too great and the legs were flopping around all over the place - so it took a bit of patience to get them correctly positioned... both from the front...

 

... and the side.

 

I then fitted the brake lines using 0.3mm wire.

 

Tail on and before priming I sanded off all the oversized rivets...

 

... priming (as it always does) showed that more filling and panel lining was needed:

 

 

 

Finally got the flaps on and in position:

 

 

So now she is ready for pre-shading and the exiting part - painting!

 

Thanks for looking.

 

[Troy Smith]

A couple of details which may or may nor help....

109 Fuselage are like big kits, and have a centre seam

unrestored 109 shows it well! 

 

the sides of the wheel well have canvas  liners 

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235095494-bf-109-wheel-wells/

 

hope of interest/use

Great work on this old beast. 

[Bonkin]

Thanks Troy. This is exactly the kind of tips/help I was hoping for. Just a shame I spent so long removing the seem line in the first place .

 

I need to have a think about putting it back in... its not an angle you normally get a view of so it needs some consideration. I did do a quick check and found this - a G10 variant and the line is just barely visible:

 

Regarding the wheel wells... I had seen a number of reference pictures, some with and some without the canvas liners. I guess if authenticity is needed then they should be fitted - as they would have been standard. This will be something else to consider... I only left them out because I wasn't overly convinced my skills could extend to making them look convincing - especially with the stitching. Also, there will need to be some "artistic license" in my build - as a "representative" 5th staffel machine. May be they could be modelled using Milliput?

[Troy Smith]

3 hours ago, Bonkin said:

a G10 variant and the line is just barely visible:

Not a G-10,  looks like G-6 at the Smithsonian (that years later they found out the true scheme for! )  

The seam is really a lap joint AFAIK,  so you could just a line of tape, and then sparay some more primer to build up a 'skin' , and then some wash later would  emphasize it?  Note the belly has the same seam.  

 

3 hours ago, Bonkin said:

Regarding the wheel wells... I had seen a number of reference pictures, some with and some without the canvas liners. I guess if authenticity is needed then they should be fitted - as they would have been standard.

yes, basically to stop dirt and debris  getting into the wing.

3 hours ago, Bonkin said:

This will be something else to consider... I only left them out because I wasn't overly convinced my skills could extend to making them look convincing - especially with the stitching. Also, there will need to be some "artistic license" in my build - as a "representative" 5th staffel machine. May be they could be modelled using Milliput?

You've done a great job on the well walls,  so unless you feel you can do the canvas liners as well,  I'd not bother.  

If you have the patience you could try using lead foil, or dress makers tissue.   If you like the result, fit if not, leave it out,  though with anything like in in scratchbuilding,  you inevitably do learn some new techniques even if you don't get result you are happy with.  

 

I'm still surprised that no-one has not done some AM add ons for these old Airfix kits,  a set of etch for the UC wells,  cannon bays and cockpit engine bay would really be a boon for this and the Spitfire Mk.I 

I think the P-51D has some issues in the nose, and the Hurricane has some weird faults...   I have a couple i got really cheap (a mate got me one from the local dump shop for £1 very slightly started) 

I recently got a bf109 kit off Freegle as well!  

3 hours ago, Bonkin said:

This is exactly the kind of tips/help I was hoping for.

I'm pleased it was of use.  Sorry it was so late. I did a while back eventually get the PSL book that was done to go with the kits, the Bf109 one is one of the better ones in the series.

I did most of the Superkits when I was 10, in order, Hurricane, 10th birthday,   Bf109 , Mustang,  and I'd been putting down small payments for the Ju-87 (which had just come out)  and got that and the Spitfire for that xmas,   and thought they were the best thing ever back then,  they did, and still do,  make very impressive models even OOB.

 

cheers

T

 

[mark.au]

Having stood next to more than one 109 I can say that lap join is barely visible, even up close.  I rarely represent it on my 109 models but if I do, it would be with a very light pencil line.

 

Your 109 is shaping up very nicely.

[Bonkin]

On 14/08/2022 at 21:35, Troy Smith said:

You've done a great job on the well walls,  so unless you feel you can do the canvas liners as well,  I'd not bother.  

If you have the patience you could try using lead foil, or dress makers tissue.   If you like the result, fit if not, leave it out,  though with anything like in in scratchbuilding,  you inevitably do learn some new techniques even if you don't get result you are happy with. 

Good tip cheers. I'm still undecided... will see how things turn out.

 

On 14/08/2022 at 21:35, Troy Smith said:

I have a couple i got really cheap (a mate got me one from the local dump shop for £1 very slightly started) 

I recently got a bf109 kit off Freegle as well!  

Wow. That is lucky. It seems the price of kits has been going up a lot recently... certainly on eBay at least. I thought I'd got a good deal on the 1/24 Mossie at £80 - and my most recent purchase (the VFS 1/24 P-40) I paid considerably more due to its rarity.

 

On 14/08/2022 at 22:37, mark.au said:

Having stood next to more than one 109 I can say that lap join is barely visible, even up close.  I rarely represent it on my 109 models but if I do, it would be with a very light pencil line.

 

Your 109 is shaping up very nicely.

Thanks Mark. Good tip as well.

[Bonkin]

Painting (when it goes well) has to be one of my favourite stages of model making. I started out with a fair amount of pre-shading all over:

 

 

And then proceeded with the RLM65 blue underside and sides, using a 50:50 mix of Tamiya XF2 and XF23.

 

 

 

For the splinter pattern I used a 50:50 mix of Tamiya XF22 and XF49 for the RLM02, and a 50:50 mix of Tamiya XF49 and XF62 for the RLM71. The former is supposed to be a grey colour but looks more green to me. I can't remember exactly where I got these mixes from, but they seemed fairly common.

 

 

 

 

When I first put the paint on I realised I hadn't extended it far enough on the wing root... but it was fairly simple to remedy.

 

Thanks for looking.

[Troy Smith]

1 hour ago, Bonkin said:

It seems the price of kits has been going up a lot recently... certainly on eBay at least.

Kits went right up with Covid/lockdown,  I'd not trust ebay that much, finished listings are a better guide.

Given the economic gloom predicted,  if you have spare cash,  there will be cheaper kits again.

1 hour ago, Bonkin said:

I thought I'd got a good deal on the 1/24 Mossie at £80

Good price, a stash queen classic.    It was from the Airfix era where kits that hadn't sold got sold off a deep discount at points,  I used to wait until they were on clearance,  I only got the Typhoon as one was selling for under £50 with post, but that was a a few years after the release.  

Airfix are much more cagey these days, and I don't see new items getting deep discounts.

Not that I need any more kits.  Especially big ones.   

Note, if you are interested in shape accuracy and want a 1/24th Hurricane, the Trumpeter kit  is considerably better shape wise than the old Airfix...much as it pains me to say it....

1 hour ago, Bonkin said:

The former is supposed to be a grey colour but looks more green to me.

RLM 02 is an olive grey,  similar to Japanese grey,  and can vary in appearance with light.    I think I made a Tamiya mix of 22 and 49 which was a good match to the paint chip in the Monogram Guide to Painting German Aircraft.  I'd need to check but it sounds correct, as the 49 Khaki gives the subtle yellow-brown oliveness to the colour.

Revell 45 is a very good  match BTW.  There have been thread on this on here.

 

Good subtle pre-shade,  far too often makes kits look like a blinkin' tartan rug!

 

cheers

T

[Walter]

Great work so far 👍

[Bonkin]

On 20/08/2022 at 15:03, Troy Smith said:

Note, if you are interested in shape accuracy and want a 1/24th Hurricane, the Trumpeter kit  is considerably better shape wise than the old Airfix...much as it pains me to say it....

I built the Airfix one some 35+ years ago. I've never tried the Trumpeter kit - but I have them both in my stash. I was thinking that it may be good to do a side by side build of them.

 

On 20/08/2022 at 15:03, Troy Smith said:

Good subtle pre-shade,  far too often makes kits look like a blinkin' tartan rug!

Cheers. I prefer subtlety too.

 

6 hours ago, Walter said:

Great work so far 👍

Thank you Walter.

[mike c]

You are making a super job of updating a grand old kit, I remember buying one of these from Woolworths in Kings Heath, Birmingham many years ago.

[Bonkin]

In latest time at the bench I did a little work on the prop:

 

And then, in preparation for markings it was time to lay down a gloss coat. First off though, to get rid of the rough post paint surface, I wet sanded the entire model with a Tamiya 3000 grit sanding sponge. In some ways this negates the need for a gloss coat but I figured it best to err on the side of caution. I used a 40:60 mix of Tamiya X22 and Mr Hobby Self Levelling Thinner:

 

 

 

 

 

You can see from the pictures that I also did some work on the undercarriage legs, including painting the chrome absorber.

 

Next up will be the decals and markings. The latter I will need some help with I think... I've been thinking about getting a cutter and have been experimenting with both Silhouette Studio and Cricut Design Space. So far Silhouette Studio looks like a better choice to me.

 

Thanks for looking.

[Bonkin]

And on with some of the decals (its great having time off work ) ...

 

 

 

 

 

 

Microset and Microsol used throughout - and the Airfix kit decals have proven themselves to be very good so far. Still a long way to go yet though.

 

Thanks for looking.

[AdrianMF]

Looking good - you have improved that old kit tremendously and it’s shaping up to be a model you could easily mistake for the real thing.

 

Regards,

Adrian