Geo1966 Posted July 4, 2022 Share Posted July 4, 2022 (edited) My second GB this year and my second GB ever, the last one being the M3/M4. Only just managed to finish the last one in time, so I am going to try a bit harder to get this done with at least a week to spare. In my youth I used to only make aircraft, but since coming back to the hobby a couple of years ago I have only been doing AFV’s. I do have an urge to do an aircraft, but sticking with what I know for now. The CMP FAT (Field Artillery Tractor), officially the Chevrolet 8440/CGT Tractor, 4x4, Field Artillery, was an artillery tractor of the British and Commonwealth forces during World War II. CMP stood for Canadian Military Pattern and was applied to a number of trucks, artillery tractors and utility vehicles built in Canada that combined British design requirements with North American automotive engineering. As with other FATs, the CMP was usually used to tow either the 25 pounder gun-howitzer or the 17 pounder anti-tank gun. I don't think much of IBG's book art, but having looked at reviews i think the kits are ok. Quite a lot of parts, but when looking at the instructions i have realised a lot of them are not used. Guessing there are quite a few generic parts as IBG also do a Chevy fuel tanker and a general service truck. A little bit of PE and 2 marking options for Canadian 5th and 14th Artillery Regiments. I like the look of the A Troop 5th (Westmount) Field Battery, 5th Field Artillery Regiment RCA, 2nd Canadian Infantry DIvision, Netherlands, April 1945. Although I could look at more traditional "Mickey mouse" schemes. We will see...................... George Edited July 4, 2022 by Geo1966 edit 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted July 5, 2022 Share Posted July 5, 2022 Nice choice. I do like the look of these trucks and the IBG kits build up really well usually. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo1966 Posted July 6, 2022 Author Share Posted July 6, 2022 And we are off! Small progress, but progress, we have some wheels! I want to flatten the wheels to make the vehicle sit better. Is there any easy way to do this? The worry is that if i sand one more than the others it will end up wobbly. The instructions are strange as they are done via CAD drawings(i think). Don't think there is anything wrong with that just not used to it. George 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted July 6, 2022 Share Posted July 6, 2022 The best way to sand the wheels is to wait until you've glued them on, then sand them all at the same time on a sheet of sanding paper. You will have to touch them up a little bit afterwards. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo1966 Posted July 6, 2022 Author Share Posted July 6, 2022 Thanks Jeroen, Guess i will have to see how well the fit to the axels, etc is. I built a Bronco Humber Armoured Car some time ago and the axels and suspension were really delicate and would not have allowed sanding in situ. George Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted July 6, 2022 Share Posted July 6, 2022 1 hour ago, Geo1966 said: Thanks Jeroen, Guess i will have to see how well the fit to the axels, etc is. I built a Bronco Humber Armoured Car some time ago and the axels and suspension were really delicate and would not have allowed sanding in situ. George You can use a flat sanding stick, go one by one. A little at a time. I recently did a couple of wheels when they weren't attached and found that they had notches in the back to glue them on, and I judged that wrongly. I guess you're safer if you can glue them on how you want. Do the wheels have holes through and through? You could also skewer them tightly and sand them at the same time. That would probably work fine. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81-er Posted July 6, 2022 Share Posted July 6, 2022 An option I've used is to warm the edge of the wheel by passing it through the flame on my spirit burner a few times (just enough to soften it) and then gently pushing the softened edge against a hard & flat surface. You get a slight bulge that way, rather than just a flat spot. Worth trying on some spare wheels first as it's easy to over do it. James 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo1966 Posted July 7, 2022 Author Share Posted July 7, 2022 21 hours ago, 81-er said: An option I've used is to warm the edge of the wheel by passing it through the flame on my spirit burner a few times (just enough to soften it) and then gently pushing the softened edge against a hard & flat surface. You get a slight bulge that way, rather than just a flat spot. Worth trying on some spare wheels first as it's easy to over do it. Thanks for the suggestion James. I can understand this would give a better finish with the bulge, but i don't think i am brave enough to try! 🙄 21 hours ago, JeroenS said: Do the wheels have holes through and through? You could also skewer them tightly and sand them at the same time. That would probably work fine. Just checked and yes they do. Plus there are no notches so i think i will try this. George Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo1966 Posted July 12, 2022 Author Share Posted July 12, 2022 Morning all, bit of an update. Have made the chassis, which was a bit of a fiddle. Seems straight ish. Always a bit of a worry when you come to fit the wheels and then find out one is floating in mid-air. Fingers crossed it will be ok. Finding the instructions a bit awkward in places. With it all being grey, its sometimes a bit hard to see where you are supposed to be putting parts. Maybe its just me. Also I am more used to other manufactures which have some logic in where parts are on the sprues. Tamiya, Miniart, ICM, etc tend to have all the suspension parts on one sprue for example. The below side section of the chassis has you get parts from 7 different sprues. Not a major problem, just a bit of a pain. George 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo1966 Posted July 18, 2022 Author Share Posted July 18, 2022 Bit more progress. The chassis is complete and has had a coat of Tamiya NATO black. The engine is quite nice and even has a PE radiatior fan. Shame nothing will be seen once the bonnet goes on. I am finding this build a bit frustrating in some areas, and have had to bite my lip a few times and walk away. Hopefully now i am onto the main body of the vehicle things will go a bit better. George 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted July 20, 2022 Share Posted July 20, 2022 Looking good, the Nato black is a good choice. Building a chassis is always a bit tedious, I'm sure building the body will be more fun. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo1966 Posted July 23, 2022 Author Share Posted July 23, 2022 (edited) Now the weather has cooled down a bit, I have managed to get a bit more painting done. First a coat of Tamiya Dark Green XF-61. I like using Tamiya for a base/undercoat as it adheres well imho. Then a highlight coat of Vallejo Dark Olive Drab 71.316. This was only slightly lighter than the Tamiya Dark green, which i didn't realise until i put it on. Oh well, i guess it helps to build up an extra colour layer. Then a coat of Vallejo US Olive Drab 70.887. Getting there now I think........................ Might do one more lighter coat in selected areas, then i need to sort the seats and detail painting. For some reason i am slightly worried about the cab walls fitting correctly. Might be because i have had a few fitment issues already with this kit 🤔 George Edited July 24, 2022 by Geo1966 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo1966 Posted July 26, 2022 Author Share Posted July 26, 2022 I have done a pin wash and a bit of chipping on the cab interior and painted the rifles. Once the seats are in i can stick the cab together. I usually use Tamiya Rubber black for my wheels, but thought i would try Ammo Mig Rubber and Tires. The Ammo Mig is on the right and looks way to light i think, perhaps it would be more appropriate for 1/72 wheels. Anyway i am going to stick with the Tamiya on the left wheel. George 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted July 26, 2022 Share Posted July 26, 2022 Very nice work on the chipping! I always think the Tamiya rubber black is a convincing colour. I recently got a Life Colour set of blacks, including a tyre black. I'm curious to see how that compares. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo1966 Posted July 27, 2022 Author Share Posted July 27, 2022 Thanks Jeroen, i have never used Life Colour paints are they any good? George Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo1966 Posted July 27, 2022 Author Share Posted July 27, 2022 So the seats are in and the rear cab walls on. The seats were a bit of a nightmare. There are 2 runners for each seat and it appears it is one of those jobs you need to do at the same time. What i mean is you need to fit the runners and the seats in the same session to get them to fit properly. As this would impead the painting i didn't do that and then had problems fitting the backs as the runner parts were out of line. Oh well, they are in and my bodge won't be seen once the doors and roof are fitted - hopefully. From what i can glean the seats are some sort of canvas, so i painted them with Tamiya Flat Earth then gave them a dry brush of Deck Tan to give them a bit of texture/interest. George 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo1966 Posted July 31, 2022 Author Share Posted July 31, 2022 Looking at the above photo, i have realised i have put the front seats in the wrong way round! Doh! Oh well i think i will leave them as hopefully they won't be seen. George Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo1966 Posted July 31, 2022 Author Share Posted July 31, 2022 Having read a couple of reviews of the kit before starting, they all mention about the frame work for the "sunroof" being a nightmare to clean up. After some time, some swearing and some breakages, i gave up and decided to put a tarp over it. I used tissue paper and tried VMS paper shaper for the first time. Seems ok, but you need to clean of the excess and it does warn you that you should not use it over paint. I then added some paper strips to simulate tie downs. Looks a bit odd as i have painted the interior, but you get the idea. George 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zebra Posted July 31, 2022 Share Posted July 31, 2022 That's a very effective technique for the tarpaulin - really great fabric effect. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo1966 Posted August 1, 2022 Author Share Posted August 1, 2022 Some good progress over the weekend. Due to the hot weather a couple of weeks ago i managed to remove and clean up most of the parts, so it was a breeze sticking them on and pretty much finishing the build. Just have the wing mirrors, headlights and the wheels to add once the painting is finished. The front cab roof is not stuck down as yet, so ignore the bad fit. Applied a couple of coats of Tamiya Dark Green XF-61, so i have a good base for further paint. Have realised this is a bit of an ugly looking vehicle, but i guess it served a purpose. Definately not designed for looks! George. 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted August 1, 2022 Share Posted August 1, 2022 Nice work. They look quirky at best, especially this type of cab with the forward slanting windshield. It does give something to look at though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo1966 Posted August 9, 2022 Author Share Posted August 9, 2022 (edited) Had a good few days getting a bit more done to the Chevy. I managed to correct the front seats before i fitted the front cab. Only problem is one of them has since come unstuck! Thinking i will try a blob of Blue tak to fit it back in as glue could get messy and its really hard to get to now. Applied a couple of highlight coats of lighter OD, then started on the camouflage. Thought about using masking tape or White Tak, but ended up brush painting it with 3 coats of thinned Vallejo NATO Black. Since taking the photos last night, i have applied a coat of gloss, so i will hopfully get the decals on this evening. George Edited August 9, 2022 by Geo1966 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo1966 Posted August 11, 2022 Author Share Posted August 11, 2022 The decals went on surprising well with VMS set and VMS softener. No silvering, which makes a change for me. Then applied a Satin varnish. George 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo1966 Posted August 13, 2022 Author Share Posted August 13, 2022 Made a start on a figure to accompany the FAT. Got him from eBay. Think he is a rip-off from another company courtesy of our Chinese friends. He is resin and pretty good though. Was a bit surprised that he was purple, but hey. George 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted August 13, 2022 Share Posted August 13, 2022 It does look like a stolen design. Poor quality cast of what looks like it was a nice sculpting job. Should we be colluding with the thieves? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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