First Sherman in 1:35 - RFM Firefly ***Finished***

[SimonL]

I’ve got some leave coming up, and casting around for my next project I’ve decided on the RFM Sherman Firefly, which I picked up only a couple of months ago. Going to be a straight from the box build, rather fancy the Grenadier  Guards markings. Paint scheme I gather is pretty straight forward - SCC 15, but there looks like lots of optional parts in the box…

 

I’m no Sherman expert so any advice gratefully received! I’ve picked up some bits and pieces, such being careful to choose the correct sprocket ⚙️.

 

For the SCC15 I have some Mig AMMO paint, but was considering Vallejo Model Air 71.020 as per this link: http://www.plasticpanzers.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=1023

 

 

 

Edited August 12, 2022 by SimonL

[Hamden]

 

Looking forward to this one Simon - beer and popcorn ordered

 

     Stay safe           Roger

[SimonL]

Ok, so browsing around and so far I have the following (the instructions can be found here for reference https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/9/3/2/1253932-20-instructions.pdf)

 

I need to use the sprocket indicated at Step 5 (parts J2 and J10)

 

I can ignore parts D24, D27 and D28, D14 and D15 which I gather are for the “Houseboat” setup.

 

I can leave off the periscope guards (parts L10 or Y24)

 

Probably best to use part D17 as the blanking plate for the hull MG position.

 

I can put the travel lock (D25) on the rear left hand side.

 

I should use leaf style towing assembly (parts D16, D20 and C10).

 

I should leave off the “skirts” (step 15 on page 15 of the instructions) but add the strips of brass etch (parts Y38, 34, 42, 36, 37, 33 and 9 at bottom of page 15).

 

I should use the “round hole” muzzle brake (parts D12 and D13).

 

I can probably leave the .50 cal MG off (although it looks pretty good so may include it anyway).

 

I could leave the searchlight off, but again may include anyway, but probably with the shroud.

 

I think that’s it? 

 

 

 

 

[IanC]

I'll be following your build with interest Simon. I'd like to build a Firefly myself, but those tracks put me off. I'd prefer some high quality rubber bands, which I think would work almost as well on one of these.

 

Have fun! 

[Cerberus]

 This build log by @diablo rsv might be useful to you if you haven't already seen it - 

 

[SimonL]

Thanks @Cerberus, yes I saw that. Extremely useful - and I’m taking note of the hints and tips.

 

Made a start today working on the hull. The plastic seems to work really well with my favourite Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. Both the front and back went together fairly easily. 
 

 

im going with the horizontal tow assembly, so following the advice in @diablo rsv build (I’m going to be saying that a lot), I scraped off the places where the vertical tow assembly should go. First bit of photoetch (ugh), but actually wasn’t too bad. On the front casting the plastic melted enough with the Tamiya Extra Thin that I think I will get away without having to use any filler.

 

The rest of the hull “tub” went together quickly, and everything lined up ok.

 

 

Couldn’t resist seeing what the top of the hull would look like, so just a quick dry fit:

 

 

The answer is - really well!

 

Now the sprockets. I think I’ve chosen the correct ones. The image for Assembly Part 5 has the parts that look like J3 and J9 (which I gather are correct), but has them labelled as J2 and J10). Fingers crossed. As mentioned by @Das Abteilung RFM has a really strange approach to putting these together. I’ve followed the approach @diablo rsv suggests of gluing the hub to one side of the sprocket first. 
 

 

 

 

That appeared to work really well. Pretty happy with the result.

 

Looking ahead I am a bit confused by step 8. It has you trimming parts E33 and E34 if you are using part Y35:

 

 

Except part Y35 appears to be some etched brass at the front of the hull? I assume I need to trim these parts as I intend not to fit the sand shields.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Hamden]

 

Very nice start Simon, looking forward to the next update now

 

   Stay safe           Roger

[edjbartos]

Good start. it's looking good...

 

Ed

[Peter Browne]

Nice start from a fellow Sand Groper!

 

Following with interest 

 

 

[SimonL]

Thanks @Hamden and @edjbartos. 
 

Ha @Flat Chat, it’s a bit damn cold at the moment - that wasn’t the deal when I moved here!

 

Continued work on the back of the hull. Meant a bit of work with photoetch, but so far I seem to be handling it. And I must admit it does look good.

 

 

Not sure why, but sprue L in my kit is in sand coloured plastic!

 

The following but was a bit tricky to get lined up, but eventually managed to get it sorted.

 

 

Just dry fitted for the time being, I think may be easier to paint if I keep it separate.

 

 

Then onto the idlers - that’s a lot of parts needed!

 

 

 

And now the bogies. Very complex, so I’m going to take it slowly.

 

I started with the first one as a trial run. I have glued the springs in with CA after reading around about how tricky they are. The wheels went together ok.

 

 

Now before I proceed, just wanted to check. At the bottom bottom of the casting for the suspension there are three nuts and screws (circled in red in the image below). My understanding is that for this tank I need to snip these off as in this case the manufacturer (Chrysler) used caps? (Sorry if my terminology is incorrect). Can anyone confirm?

[Cerberus]

5 hours ago, SimonL said:

Not sure why, but sprue L in my kit is in sand coloured plastic!

 I've got the same RFM kit and all of mine is in sand coloured plastic! the lower hull, the upper hull, everything apart from the tracks anyway, looks good in sand 

 

5 hours ago, SimonL said:

My understanding is that for this tank I need to snip these off as in this case the manufacturer (Chrysler) used caps? (Sorry if my terminology is incorrect). Can anyone confirm?

 I have a sneaky feeling that you can go with either setup, either cap head bolts or threaded bar and nuts (as in the kit) because I think it all depends on when it was manufactured, but I'm not totally sure on that 

 

@Das Abteilung will more than likely know for sure.

 

 Matt

 

[Milan Mynar]

Nice start, I didn't do so well.

[Kingsman]

Yes Chrysler used cap screws with no protruding threads to secure the lower bogie bracket section throughout M4A4 production.  They changed this as they moved into other M4 variants after A4 production ended in Nov 43.  Their bogie brackets from National Malleable Castings had a noticeably flat ledge at the bottom of the vertical ribs.  This area varied from foundry to foundry.  Bogie variations is something that kit manufacturers have not yet got their heads round, even the allegedly-mighty Asuka.  Too often the same parts are recycled from kit to kit.  My very nice Resicast Sherman II DD has incorrect prominently GAD-marked Ford-made bogie parts never fitted to M4A1s.  And no-one has yet got the top face right.  More on this anon.

 

Note in the first picture the noticeable mould line across the bogie face seen on NMC bogies and some others.  This is one of the variable features.  Also the lower arm pivots: some were plain with a central dimple and others were slotted.  Some castings had open-top holes for the securing screws while others were closed, as in these photos.  These are both NMC bogies on M4A4s but the one on the left is April 43 and the one on the right May 43.

 

This picture courtesy of Sherman Minutia.

   

Edited July 8, 2022 by Das Abteilung
correction

[SimonL]

Thanks @Das Abteilung, that’s really helpful! I’m going to have a bash at making the mould line using Mr Surfacer as suggested by @Cerberus

[SimonL]

One down, five to go.

 

 

Hit my first snag - I only have 7 springs, not the required 12. I will need to use some plastic rod, I was going to fix them all in place anyway. 

[Kingsman]

The workable suspension is just a gimmick.  I would have recommended replacing all of the springs with 3mm square plastic.  With about an extra ton of weight forward of the centre line compared to a 75mm tank, Fireflies could adopt a slight forward sit after some time in action.  A4s were already the heaviest of the VVSS Shermans anyway and the trailing-roller bogie we associate with the M4 was designed by Chrysler to take the weight of the A57 engine on the M3A4.  So the bogie arms should not be at maximum height, which the springs will tend to force.

[SimonL]

Ah well, kind of stuck for this build. Don’t really fancy trying to take the bogies apart that I’ve done (two so far), as I’m sure I’ll botch it up.

[Kingsman]

Put the springy ones at the back, but make sure the centre ones are flat to the ground.  Or just glue the arms to the right sit on the springy ones.

[SimonL]

Sounds like a plan.  So I should aim for a ever so slightly “nose” down sit?

Edited July 9, 2022 by SimonL

[Kingsman]

Depends how old and bold you want your tank to be.  New to service it would be level, but VCs were all converted on used tanks as no new ones were available by then.  Some had even been re-manufactured from early build standards used in the US for training: there were about 1,600 of those from about 7,500 total.  Some were even still Direct Vision.  But RFMs kit is a later build standard, mid-late 43.

 

The photo from Minutia above is about the right "sit" for an A4 bogie with the arms slightly compressed from full extension.  If your tank is in Normandy in June 44 probably keep it that way.  If it's in Germany in May 45 then perhaps a little forward sit.

[SimonL]

So today was spent getting the bogies sorted. Managed to get all six done. Tried to recreate the casting line across the front as suggested by Matt @Cerberus but it ended up looking rather messy. I cleaned it off with some nail polish remover, perhaps may have another go later. 
 

 

They need a bit of clean up, but pretty happy with them. 

[Maddoxx77]

Looking good so far. RFM are challenging kits to build. 

[SimonL]

Thanks. I’m discovering that 🙂

 

Today spent time on the top of the main hull. Lots of little bits to glue on, but after the bogies fairly straightforward. I’m leaving the photoetch until tomorrow…

 

 

 

[zigster]

Re: that casting line across the boogie.

How about using a sawing thread with some white glue?

Just spent some time marking that horizontal line.

zig

Edited July 11, 2022 by zigster
typo

[SimonL]

Good idea, but I’m not sure if my skills to make a good job of it so I am going to leave as is.  Rather than wait overnight, I decided to take the bull by the horns and deal with the photo etch. 
 

 

 

It was a bit tricky, and some of the bends are so-so. But hopefully paint will cover the worst of the glue stains. And it does look good.