Jump to content

BMW 507 Cabrio 1957 - Elvis Presley's one - Based on a Revell old kit 1:24


Recommended Posts

9 hours ago, Neddy said:

Blimey!  Good luck with those hinges.  You might need to hire a mechanically inclined gnome to fit them for you.

 

38 minutes ago, Hamden said:

 

More stunning micro engineering going on in search of the smallest detail!

 

  Seasons Greetings           Roger

 

I don't know if I can manage to do this, so I'm going to try :)

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Afternoon gentlemen :)

 

Inside mirror and parts of sun visor's bracket printed :

 

53416192354_39a860b9ec_c.jpg   53415867806_c0a6a5dace_c.jpg

 

53415867791_3969fdf411_c.jpg   53416305175_97208f1e81_c.jpg

 

The bracket parts are really very tiny :

 

53416277979_966e07e314_c.jpg

 

But actually not as much as my spark plug caps, so.... 🙄

 

Obviously, I've to re-drill the holes where I'll thread later a 0.25 Nickel-Chrome wire, a delicate task  along which several parts are likely to break off....what explain why I printed a lot of them (I need four items of he 2 parts, and I printed 20 for each)
The following question is: "will this parts be strong enough to allow a rotation movement of the wire without breaking ?"

 

Wait and see the next episode :)

 

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Evening guys

6 hours ago, Neddy said:

Good luck with that!  (Sincerely meant.)

 

 

It cost me three 0.3 mm drill bits but I managed to drill 9 parts: 4 for the mounting on the windshield frame and 5 (4 needed and 1 spare) for the mounting on the sun visors.
The resin parts are tough and hard to drill.
I've threaded  a 0.25 Ni-Cr wire into the 9 parts in order too not loose them and test if they are strong enough: YES they are :)


53417020903_603dd8ee6a_b.jpg   53415933957_9d3eff9e24_c.jpg

 

he next step is to assemble correctly the wire and the parts to get 2 mounting brackets of the right dimensions, what suppose to bend precisely the wire to the good lenghts at the exact right points, to get  a correct shape and a stuff that looks like the black "thing" on the photo below (the kit part):

 

53417295760_75518d8f10_c.jpg

 

You can also see on this picture that the front face of the sun visors, where the bracket is attached, are very rough and need a vigorous cleaning !

I wonder, as they are also too thick and not curved enough, if it's possible to modeling them for 3D printing ?........why not ?

 

See you later :)

 

  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Neddy said:

Sure, why not indeed? I mean, it's just obvious, isn't it? :rofl2::mental:

 

So I wondered whether I knew enough about Fusion to model new sun visors.


In theory, to draw a complex shape like this, curved in the direction of the height (concave forwards across its entire width, seen from the side) and width (concave backwards in the direction of its greatest length, seen from above), professional users use shape modelling functions.
But I'm just an amateur user....That said, a little thought and a good knowledge of the basics of the software will get you there: it just takes a lot longer!

 

So here's the result of my cogitations, inspired by all the previous photos:

 

53417943551_38a78893e8_c.jpg   53417943546_c80e87d9e4_c.jpg

 

53418269289_0d3cb3a1b7_c.jpg   53418109443_1c8761fcbd_c.jpg


OK, I haven't shown the stitching on the leather, because it wouldn't show! 

 

Once printed, it looks like this:

 

53417269822_d677379e95_c.jpg   53417269757_98ed292798_c.jpg

 

Not so bad, but, on the front face, the places where the mounting brackets will be attached are not hollowed enough:


53417269767_117780555f_c.jpg

 

So, I've slightly modified the design, digging a bit more the fixing places and adding a raised edge around the perimeter :

53418512624_9805cd4e6d_c.jpg


The new print is on the go, so see you later :)

 

 

 

 

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Afternoon chaps :)

 

The second print for the sun visors is the good one:

 

53422285586_fa04451847_c.jpg   53422443663_de8f613e18_c.jpg

 

Now all we have to do is get to work assembling their brackets, obviously the most difficult job.

 

Furthermore, I've turned on the lathe 2 new muffler tips, because the kits one are frankly .....I prefer shut my mouth :)

 

I've used a 4.0 mm brass rod, that I've decreased to 2.7 mm, drilled at 1.1 mm on the front end and thinned at the maximum I could at the rear end, using a centring drill.
Those muffler tips will be Nickel electroplated later.

 

53422697355_f73be13e84_c.jpg   53422697365_7f995f1d0f_c.jpg

 

Stay tuned and thanks for watching :)

 

 

 

  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Evening guys :)

 

With a bit of luck, you'll still be in full possession of your faculties and able to read my last message of the year 😂

 

I've been working (just a little, tiny bit) today.

 

I nickel-plated the exhaust tips:

 

53434017510_e77e3f8afc_c.jpg

 

At normal viewing distance, you can't see the turning marks.

 

I put them to one side, to be installed only at the end of the assembly, at the same time as all the chrome accessories.

 

I also modelled in 3D, then printed and installed in place the two jaws of the boot locking system, inspired by this photo:

 

My drawings:

 

53432691397_45c4db0f47_c.jpg   53433760718_d9a78a5079_c.jpg

 

The printed parts:

 

53432691372_008e4fe588_c.jpg

 

And once installed and painted in Silver:

 

53433621861_06bf8f2d61_c.jpg

 

See you next year and happy New Year, everyone! :)


 

 

 

 

  • Like 13
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Happy new year 2024, everyone :)

 

As I'm preparing to leave France for 3 months, I need new luggages, to travel in comfort :)

 

I fell in love 🤣 with this lovely suitcases that were designed for the BMW 507:

 

53435475541_e01649516e_c.jpg

 

And I went to Mr. Fusion's shop to order the same ones, but in a more "toffee" color, and he designed this one for me:

 

53434574742_62879ae97e_c.jpg   53435821679_a45e7defa7_c.jpg

 

53435491486_2691a7ab7c_c.jpg   53435923540_d56d0443ca_c.jpg

 

53435923625_c45ac49095_c.jpg   53434574817_46d1ee8ac4_c.jpg

 

53435491536_1ae4e0b8ab_c.jpg

 

The print is on the go :)

 

  • Like 8
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, Neddy said:

Love it!  There's no stopping you now, is there? 🙂

Yes, yes, of course! the fear of going too far :)

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can't you ever just build anything straight out of the box?! I think I know the answer to that! 🤣

 

I continue to be astounded at the intricate re-engineering going on. Most of it seems to be microscopic, incredible stuff. 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

58 minutes ago, Anteater said:

Can't you ever just build anything straight out of the box?! I think I know the answer to that! 🤣

 

I continue to be astounded at the intricate re-engineering going on. Most of it seems to be microscopic, incredible stuff. 

 

I did it...during my childhood.....some decades ago :) Now, I consider the kits as good (sometimes not) base to start a build.

I've also a peculiar relationship with the concept of complexity, that I hate and love at the same time.

But you know, I'm pretty nuts :)

Thanks for your huge comment.....😎

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Afternoon gentlemen :)

 

Several tests were needed to get a correct 3D print.

 

Hereunder is the part, just after it's been washed:

 

53437900696_820f0e6d1e_c.jpg

 

hereunder, after cleaning and sanding

 

53438215424_9db5ecb294_c.jpg  53436975177_8e6a24e570_c.jpg

 

And at last, after priming :

 

53438215414_d5edbc6d04_c.jpg

 

This is not perfect , but it's pretty nice and convincing :)

 

Let's wait a bit for final paint...

 

  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

37 minutes ago, Neddy said:

That's going to look amazing inside the trunk!

 

(shame it doesn't open...)  :shutup:

Yes, but the most beautiful thing inside the trunk after completion, will be the spare wheel and its retaining straps. Yet it won't be visible, because hidden by the floor panels and the luggages....Isn't it a shame ?

I'm desperate 😪 🤣

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Afternoon guys :)

 

I've painted the luggages, and finished one of them, adding some brown paint on the handle and Molotov chrome on the hardware 🙄

 

53444340906_06ab1ee31b_c.jpg

 

I've also taken the opportunity of the favorable weather to clear coat my second  bonnet.


I took superlative precautions to avoid dust spoiling my job (as spraying the walls of my spray booth with water before each clear layer etc...)
The first two coats, the first one light and tacky, the second one heavier but as well tacky, turned well.
But the last  coat, the wet one, has been waisted by some black dust particles... 😡
It's  not dramatic, but very annoying, as, once fully dried and hardened, I must sand carefully the surface, hoping to remove completely the dust particles, without burning through the paint underneath , and spray another time a wet clear coat, without the certainty to avoid this new time dust spoiling again the job....and so on !

 

So, probably 24 hours waiting for the clear cure before doing the job again 🙄

 

See you later :)

 

  • Like 2
  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good evening guys :)


Today I had two left hands, probably due to the tremor caused by my new cardio-vascular treatment!

 

I started by misplacing my spare car key and a part of my kit that I'm going to have to model, then I broke part of the hinge that opens and closes the bonnet, spilt a can of paint, and finally, the worst!

 

Well, there's not going to be a new bonnet!

 

When sanding the dusted clear with the 3600 and the worn 3000 grit pads, using water and taking care, I managed to completely remove 3 of the 6 black dust particles that had taken up residence in my varnish, without any damage.
Unfortunately, with the fourth dust, which was probably more deeply embedded, I went a hair too far and went right through the varnish (and next to the dust to be treated!) and removed a bit of paint, reaching the grey primer.


In itself, it's nothing dramatic either, but if you want to redo things properly, because there's a 'hollow', you have to strip all the varnish, paint and primer completely and start again from scratch.

 

I'm leaving in 1 week for Canada for 3 months, and I don't have the time to do this job before I leave, nor do I really want to, because there's nothing to say that the same mishaps won't happen to me again, and I feel even less like doing it when I get back, because it's been almost 2 years since I started this project, and now I want to finish it!
Not that I'm disgusted, but a little fed up, yes!

 

So I looked at what I could do with my first bonnet, whose varnish is perfect, but whose fit on the body was a bit worse than the second one I just ruined (and whose fit, although better, wasn't perfect either).

And I realised that sanding the frame on the inside of the bonnet to thicken it, would greatly improve things, the remaining fit defect having become minimal, and mostly unimprovable because due to the poor engineering of the REVELL kit .

 

For example, the transverse curvature of the rear of the bonnet is much more pronounced than that of the bodywork in front of the windscreen, where the rear of the bonnet should fit, etc...:

 

53447120929_1927bd94dc_c.jpg

 

So I sanded down the inner frame of the bonnet as much as I could, and of course I had to repaint it.
I took then the opportunity to add, purely on a whim, some sound insulation felt panels, made from cut-outs in a sheet of paper (0.11 mm thick), painted matt black and varnished matt.

 

Purists will retort that, yes, such plates are found on all cars nowadays, but that this was not necessarily the case on cars of that era, and that in any case, on the few photos of the restoration of Elvis Presley's BMW, you can't see such accessories, any more than on most of the photos of other BMW 507s that can be found on the net.

 

So my answer to them is:
- yes, but there's nothing to say that they weren't added later on to Elvis's BMW, because I can tell you that having seen a video in which we see it driving, we also hear it, VERY LOUDLY!
- that if you look hard enough on the net, you can find photos of the engine bay of some BMW 507s, where the body colour is not black, but the inside of the bonnet is black. So either there are felt panels for sound insulation, or the inside of the bonnet has been painted black to better absorb and eliminate the heat generated by the engine.
 

For example, these photos:

 

53447075534_a879f4e3fa_c.jpg   53447075514_0c4eddc9a2_c.jpg

 

53445836037_7c9daa51a3_c.jpg

 

- And it's a restoration, the engine wasn't even available any more, nor were many of the original parts, and the artists who worked on it sometimes took liberties, so ...
- And finally, I had no choice but to hide the misery caused by the removal of part of the frame after gluing (see previous posts).


But the result of my work isn't too bad (and I'm not saying that to reassure myself), but you be the judge:

 

53446804091_a735a8bbe4_c.jpg  53447120954_f1a4efb82e_c.jpg

 

53445881127_7ac5a793af_c.jpg   53446803986_c7c7d2a52a_c.jpg

 

53445881057_afa2c8a21a_c.jpg


Of course, I would have preferred to get the varnish on my second bonnet right the first time , and I probably wouldn't have added this matt black color to the interior,  to match the authentic car... but such is life!


Well, now I have to redo a bonnet hinge!


See you later :)

 

  • Like 6
  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Sorry to see you've had problems with your bonnet but your solution looks good to me!

Enjoy your trip to Canada

 

   Stay safe           Roger

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...