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BMW 507 Cabrio 1957 - Elvis Presley's one - Based on a Revell old kit 1:24


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Bit late to the party, but my take on anything modelling related is that the aim is to make something which looks as though it could be the real thing. To my way of thinking*, it's better to have something inaccurate which looks right, than something which is accurate, but looks wrong. And that would mean that you don't need to have the exact number of bars if it looks right. To that aim, the mesh painted black would be a good option if the 3D printing doesn't work out well.

 

*Just my opinion, and not in any way trying to say you must build this way - it's your model and in the end you should build it how YOU want it to be.

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Good night gentlemen :)

 

The 3D print at 0.01 mm layers along the Z axis in't any better than the previous one.

I don't yet know if @nick has been luckier than me, and am curious to see what he got with his 3D printers.

 

I think I'll have a go with the 0.1 mm metallic mesh to simulate the speaker gril .

 

 

See you later guys :)

 

 

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11 hours ago, Spiny said:

Bit late to the party, but my take on anything modelling related is that the aim is to make something which looks as though it could be the real thing. To my way of thinking*, it's better to have something inaccurate which looks right, than something which is accurate, but looks wrong. And that would mean that you don't need to have the exact number of bars if it looks right. To that aim, the mesh painted black would be a good option if the 3D printing doesn't work out well.

 

*Just my opinion, and not in any way trying to say you must build this way - it's your model and in the end you should build it how YOU want it to be.

 

I totally agree, @Spiny :)

 

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I’ll post some pictures shortly but my prints aren’t any better than yours. I failed to appreciate just how small this is, I have even more respect for what you’re producing now. 
I’m used to 1/12th, I’m no mathematician but I reckon your stuff must be nearly half the size I’m used too. 😎👍😳

 

I might have a play and make the grooves a little wider to see how that looks but I think your mesh is perfectly fine anyway. 
 

Nick

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Morning chaps :)

 

I've 3D printed a rectangular support which size is exactly the speaker hole's one, tenths of a millimeter  less in the width and length directions.

 

53359338788_fd2f8e8f17_c.jpg

 

On this stand, I've glued with a micro-droplet of CA glue a portion of metal mesh, trying respecting the mesh orientation as closely as possible, what's not easy, even with magnifying glasses

All the excess mesh has been removed with sharp scissors.

And I've placed the speaker in its housing, no glue needed at the moment, because the fit seems perfect.

 

53358238917_62ce262c21_c.jpg

 

53358254732_7d5edfe0dd_c.jpg

 

As you could see, it seems I've not actually managed to get perfectly vertical columns and horizontal rows, once placed in the housing on the last photo.

However, on the support, once the excess mesh cut off, it looked like the alignment was very correct !

 

I wonder if it's not an optical "illusion", due to the fact that the  speaker frame is not perfectly rectangular ?

 

Would you think I must try another time, feel free to tell me !

 

It remains to secure the gril support with a little bit of PVA glue, from the backside of course, and to paint the grill black, probably with Tamiya Black Panel Line, to avoid clogging the gril holes with a too thick paint !

 

See you soon :)

 

 

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2 hours ago, CrazyCrank said:

Morning chaps :)

 

I've 3D printed a rectangular support which size is exactly the speaker hole's one, tenths of a millimeter  less in the width and length directions.

 

53359338788_fd2f8e8f17_c.jpg

 

On this stand, I've glued with a micro-droplet of CA glue a portion of metal mesh, trying respecting the mesh orientation as closely as possible, what's not easy, even with magnifying glasses

All the excess mesh has been removed with sharp scissors.

And I've placed the speaker in its housing, no glue needed at the moment, because the fit seems perfect.

 

53358238917_62ce262c21_c.jpg

 

53358254732_7d5edfe0dd_c.jpg

 

As you could see, it seems I've not actually managed to get perfectly vertical columns and horizontal rows, once placed in the housing on the last photo.

However, on the support, once the excess mesh cut off, it looked like the alignment was very correct !

 

I wonder if it's not an optical "illusion", due to the fact that the  speaker frame is not perfectly rectangular ?

 

Would you think I must try another time, feel free to tell me !

 

It remains to secure the gril support with a little bit of PVA glue, from the backside of course, and to paint the grill black, probably with Tamiya Black Panel Line, to avoid clogging the gril holes with a too thick paint !

 

See you soon :)

 

 

WOW! That makes all the difference in the world.

Could some black decal paper with softener over the mesh achieve your desired result?

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37 minutes ago, Lvp said:

WOW! That makes all the difference in the world.

Could some black decal paper with softener over the mesh achieve your desired result?

 

Especially not ! It would clog or mask all the mesh reliefs 

 

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For what it's worth, I agree with @Neddy. No one is going to count the rows or the orientation. The key is that it LOOKS like a speaker mesh!

I admire your strive for perfection though!

 

Ian

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5 hours ago, nick said:

I’ll post some pictures shortly but my prints aren’t any better than yours. I failed to appreciate just how small this is, I have even more respect for what you’re producing now. 
I’m used to 1/12th, I’m no mathematician but I reckon your stuff must be nearly half the size I’m used too. 😎👍😳

 

I might have a play and make the grooves a little wider to see how that looks but I think your mesh is perfectly fine anyway. 
 

Nick

Thank you so much @nick 👍

You can have a look at my previous post, I posted what I did with the mesh.

That seems to be appreciated by my other followers 😉

 

I'm not that proud, but it looks actually good, so.... I THANK YOU VERY MUCH for having given your opinion about the gril, what led me to change my mind  😎

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Academic now as your mesh looks so good but here the photos of my efforts as promised. This is crazy small, you can even see the pixels in my cheapo laminate worktop in these shots!

 

53360062953_7a7767bb54_b.jpg

53359846176_d1c2b71cc5_b.jpg

 

The importent thing is that your dashboard looks ace now anyway, sorry to cause you all the hassle ! 😈😉]

 

Nick

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15 minutes ago, nick said:

Academic now as your mesh looks so good but here the photos of my efforts as promised. This is crazy small, you can even see the pixels in my cheapo laminate worktop in these shots!

 

53360062953_7a7767bb54_b.jpg

53359846176_d1c2b71cc5_b.jpg

 

The importent thing is that your dashboard looks ace now anyway, sorry to cause you all the hassle ! 😈😉]

 

Nick

Your’re too hard on yourself, Nick !

Your prints are a little better than mine, the rectangular mesh is actually very visible, even  if the holes are clogged

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For what it's worth, I'd definitely say to stick with thedash as you have it now. As you say the 'misalignment' of the mesh does look to me to be an optical illusion - just look at how it aligns with the radio underneath. I think it's only the slight curve of the dash which makes it look not quite straight. I can't see how you can get it to look better than it already does.

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On 20/11/2023 at 20:54, CrazyCrank said:

Time is money and furthermore am pretty lazy  😉

Nope, you're not. I think you're one of the most persistent builders on this forum!

 

Please leave it like this Thierry, the speaker looks just right and to go any further because you feel you're missing a horizontal row in the mesh (or something) is just plain torture and has nothing to do with modelling anymore!

 

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16 hours ago, Neddy said:

Don't change a thing!  That looks perfect to me, much more effective and lifelike than any of the other options.

 Thanks for the compliment @Neddy 😎

 

16 hours ago, Brandy said:

For what it's worth, I agree with @Neddy. No one is going to count the rows or the orientation. The key is that it LOOKS like a speaker mesh!

I admire your strive for perfection though!

 

Ian

Thank you so much for your comment and kind words, @Brandy 👍

 

9 hours ago, Spiny said:

For what it's worth, I'd definitely say to stick with thedash as you have it now. As you say the 'misalignment' of the mesh does look to me to be an optical illusion - just look at how it aligns with the radio underneath. I think it's only the slight curve of the dash which makes it look not quite straight. I can't see how you can get it to look better than it already does.

Ok, @Spiny

SO, I'm not the only one who would need better glasses ? ☺️

 

41 minutes ago, JeroenS said:

Nope, you're not. I think you're one of the most persistent builders on this forum!

 

Please leave it like this Thierry, the speaker looks just right and to go any further because you feel you're missing a horizontal row in the mesh (or something) is just plain torture and has nothing to do with modelling anymore!

 

Thank you @JeroenS for this encouragement :)

 

OK, OK, OK, mates !   ..... I'll do not change anything to that gril 😉

 

And here is the painted one:

 

53361600144_6a9039e8d1_c.jpg

 

The next step is the installation of the radio buttons and various dash knobs.

I had them 3D drawn and printed, and they have been painted chrome:

 

53361486133_6e02dae65e_c.jpg

 

Why in chrome ?

 

Because of this:

 

52839328470_953ba11f30_c.jpg

 

At the base of each knob is a chrome-plated circular bezel.

When I built my first dash, I simulated this bezel with a short section of aluminium tube 0.8 mm

And the button with the head of a needle, threaded into the tube

 

For the new one, I've incorporated the bezel in the buttons drawing and so in the printed part.

I've painted it chrome to get the  bezel chromed, and now, I'm going to paint the button/knob the same color than the bodywork :)

 

See ya later😉

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Good evening, happy fellas :)

 

I just finished to paint color ivory the radio buttons and other dash knobs, managing to not overflow on their chrome bezels.

I painted the ivory color under magnifying glasses with a 20/0 brush !

You must hold your breath when working in this way, as the slightest movement will cause you to overflow.

 

Once dried, I'll probably put carefully on the ivory (AK ivory mat RC046) a droplet of clear varnish .

 

I'm pretty happy with the result 😎

 

53362486593_fb88097f3e_c.jpg

 

I had also painted chrome he passenger handle, because on its top end, there is as well a chrome bezel, and I've painted the handle Nato Black (AK 11360), which looks like a black leather.

The result is really nice :

 

53362598574_077f394d8a_c.jpg

 

This color is superb and I've planed to use it to simulate the cabin, doors and seats black upholstery 👍

 

See you soon :)

 

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Evening gentlemen :)

 

While my painted parts are curing, I've spent a few hours to 3D design the outdoor mirror of my BMW.

 

Actually, the kit part is spoiled by molding lines, and, due to its littleness, is very difficult to clean.
I broke 3 of the 4 I had 😡
One has been saved and I keep it as reference !

 

So, for safety, I 3D drawn a new one, and printed 24 samples:

 

I took inspiration of those pictures:

 

53363725102_fe0083255b_c.jpg   53365060870_17c6540e1e_c.jpg

 

53364812818_9fed7989a7_c.jpg

 

Obviously, I can't be extremely closed of the real thing, because at 1:24 scale, some sections of the part would be so thin that it would be impossible to print them correctly, and/or they would be extremely fragile !

 

So here is my interpretation :

 

53364825553_9080d8a272_c.jpg   53363737257_6eeea46c47_c.jpg

 

53363737392_503be59715_c.jpg

 

53364825318_2c5c67cfd9_c.jpg   53365072945_fe00412edb_c.jpg

 

Far to be perfect, but at 1:24 scale, once printed, it'll look good.

 

And the print result:

 

53365072810_8644d5a8ee_c.jpg  53364622571_831ee67981_c.jpg

 

 

I've also designed a new ashtray lid because the kit one shows 2 compartments where the real car as only one:

 

53365104090_2486cebe70_c.jpg

 

53363777067_53a58bfd57_c.jpg   53364981844_522aba76f6_c.jpg

 

The 3D print result, obviously, is not very impressive !

 

53363785892_7133fc5fee_c.jpg

 

See you soon :)

 

 

 

 

 

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Evening guys :)

 

The dash knobs an radio buttons have been placed on the dash.

Th highlight them, they have been painted light ivory instead of Pearl white, as the body.

We can see, on the closest photo, their chromed bezels, and the result is far better than on the first dash I made, using needles and Alu tube

 

53365937567_cc5af0eeb5_c.jpg   53366849651_a972917c8c_c.jpg

 

Sorry for the lot of dust particles I didn't remove before taking the pictures, my camera is definitely merciless 😡

 

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4 minutes ago, hendie said:

Outstanding result. I don't think you could get any closer to perfection

 

 

 

Thank you very much, @hendie for this huge comment.

I do my best, and I'm lucky because on this forum I receive a lot of advises coming from experienced people :)

 

I forgot to include in the previous post a picture of the handbrake handle !

It's been chromed and is now in place:

 

53367179399_3ea50c58ed_c.jpg

 

I'm thinking about the heating command panel, under the radio, and I'm wondering if it would be possible to add  the knobs.

At this scale, it's no longer a challenge but a gamble !

But I can't get it out of my mind ....

 

 

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4 minutes ago, CrazyCrank said:

 

Thank you very much, @hendie for this huge comment.

I do my best, and I'm lucky because on this forum I receive a lot of advises coming from experienced people :)

 

I forgot to include in the previous post a picture of the handbrake handle !

It's been chromed and is now in place:

 

53367179399_3ea50c58ed_c.jpg

 

I'm thinking about the heating command panel, under the radio, and I'm wondering if it would be possible to add  the knobs.

At this scale, it's no longer a challenge but a gamble !

But I can't get it out of my mind ....

 

 

Yeah course you can. Go for wire strands from a thin multi core cable with either solder or dip in medium ca with a squirt of activator  then chrome paint. Dead easy compared to what you’ve pulled off so far. 

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33 minutes ago, nick said:

Yeah course you can. Go for wire strands from a thin multi core cable with either solder or dip in medium ca with a squirt of activator  then chrome paint. Dead easy compared to what you’ve pulled off so far. 

 

Nope ! not so easy !


At the moment, I've added the superior knobs which heads are painted te same color than the bodywork.
I cheated and used Hiroboy 1:24 toggle switches.
They are metal made.
I drilled two 0.4 mm holes at the right places on the dash and inserted the switches into them.
Then, a little drop of white on the heads, and ....that's it.
Maybe they are a little bit oversized if you look at them from profile view, but at the naked eye, it looks pretty nice.

 

53367409595_fdfa93a8ec_c.jpg


Ok, @nick, I suppose your eye could be unsatisfied by this solution, but for once, I'll settle for nothing more.

 

In contrast, for the inferior levers which are chromed, I'll probably use your method, which sounds good 😎

 

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2 hours ago, Brandy said:

I assume the ashtray will be open, with both a used match and a few cigarette ends in it!

Outstanding details once again.

 

Ian

 

Yes Ian, it could be opened , and in the future, when paleontologists and biologists will have best tools than now, they could find on the cigarette butts some 1:24 DNA replica 🤣 
Thanks a lot for your funny comment  :)

 

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Evening chaps :)

 

It's amazing how little things can take so long to get done 😮

 

I'm still working on the dashboard, and have had a closer look to my BMW key ring, the first I did with the tin cap of a good bottle of wine 😛

 

And , really, it is not very "sexy", nor very sharp....so, I wondered how I could do to make a nicer one, and I've been thinking about it for a very long time until the obvious solution finally came to me!

 

A 3D drawn and printed part, a pretty disk with an eyelet , and on the disk, 4 sections of the same size, 4 "pie slices", that are slightly dug in the disk, and in which I could "pour" some blue and white paint, without overflowing too much.

 

3D drawings:

 

53373354843_4e202c2c48_c.jpg   53373354748_a807b19067_c.jpg

 

53372258972_472b0f9a42_c.jpg

 

The 3D printed parts

 

53373172181_45398ecbb7_c.jpg   53373353768_96c0bed4df_c.jpg

 

The key ring painted silver plus the slices, 2 blue, 2 white

 

53373354743_bd9c1e35c6_c.jpg1

 

And then, several layers of Gauzy agent, to create a nice shine and give thickness.

 

53373486834_d10c47baed_c.jpg

 

On this picture, the Gauzy agent hasn't yet dried and look a bit "milky". Once fully dried, it will be totally transparent :)

 

(Initially, I used transparent nail UV resin to give the best shine and relief, a bit like a curved glass. It worked perfectly but the slightest manipulation of the UV cured part led to dulling the resin, so...)

 

I've also printed some new ignition keys.

 

53373354583_e25d2efcd6_c.jpg   53373354783_0e08087625_c.jpg

 

53373171736_125efe87a9_c.jpg

 

It will remain to do the more delicate job: linking ignition key and key holder with a very thin metal wire to simulate the chain, without breaking the eyelets of the key holder nor/or the ignition key (My first key ring made with UV resin has been broken during this process)

 

See you soon 😉

 

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