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BMW 507 Cabrio 1957 - Elvis Presley's one - Based on a Revell old kit 1:24


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I feel a bit responsible for all your hard work on the reservoir now - sorry! Looks good though 👍😎

 

I came up with this technique to make the oiler glass domes on my Bentley instrument panel, you can just about see them in this shot

 

52931605804_5e3419b3d2_b.jpg

 

its quite handy for simple, small shapes. I just put a piece of dowel in the lathe for this, made a step for the depth, and just drilled a suitable hole in an ali sheet, you don’t even need a male and female for something easy like this. 

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10 hours ago, Neddy said:

Sorry mate, I'm cleaned out of superlatives.  That engine bay is simply astonishing!  Lovely bit of work with the washer bottle especially.

 Thanks a lot for your huge comment, @Neddy, much appreciated as always :)

 

8 hours ago, nick said:

I feel a bit responsible for all your hard work on the reservoir now - sorry! Looks good though 👍😎

 

I came up with this technique to make the oiler glass domes on my Bentley instrument panel, you can just about see them in this shot

 

52931605804_5e3419b3d2_b.jpg

 

its quite handy for simple, small shapes. I just put a piece of dowel in the lathe for this, made a step for the depth, and just drilled a suitable hole in an ali sheet, you don’t even need a male and female for something easy like this. 

 

Very lovely and impressive dash, @nick 😎

I'm a long way from mastering this technique, but it's now part of my arsenal :)

 

 

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Evening mates :)

 

A bit of progress on the new dashboard:


- It's been clear coated
- The decals have been placed, not without difficulty because those ones were very fragil.  Used a lot of Microscale Microsol to soften them, but damaged a little bit the central one (not visible at the naked eye)
- One dried, I sprayed a finale layer of 1K Gravity clear over the decals .... et voilà !
- A lot of work has still to be done on it, but I think it will be worth it.

 

53345080701_4f93a4c713_c.jpg   53345357958_ce5a852b1e_c.jpg  53344184387_766002e821_c.jpg

 

I probably re-use some added parts of the old dash to improve the new one 😎

Why do we always have to reinvent the wheel? 

 

Time is money and furthermore am pretty lazy  😉

 

Having a close look at the bonnet before clear coating it, I unfortunately noticed under magnifying glass that a  black dust micro-particle embedded into the white paint.

I tried to remove it while slightly sanding with 4000 micro mesh , but didn't managed to do that without damage !

So, IPA bath and I must redo the job !

Like Penelope, I'm putting my work back on the drawing board 100 times over :)

 

It's already primed.

 

53345541765_819b347e51_c.jpg

 

See ya later :)

 

 

 

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I have to admit I raised a slight eyebrow when you said you were remaking the dash but having seen the latest version I have to say it's a mile (1.61 kilometres) better than the previous iteration and well worth the effort.

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8 hours ago, Neddy said:

I have to admit I raised a slight eyebrow when you said you were remaking the dash but having seen the latest version I have to say it's a mile (1.61 kilometres) better than the previous iteration and well worth the effort.

 

Thanks for the kind comment, @Neddy

 

Wish me luck because am still able to ruin the new one attempting to improve it... the best is always the enemy of the good ! 

I've had to pay the price several times in the past. 🙄

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That’s the beauty of 3D printing - we have the luxury of failing many, many times over, ‘normal’ people only get to bugger things up once, we are serial failures😎😳👍

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Thierry, the level of detail in your engine bay at this scale is breathtaking. Your new dash looks already great. Be careful with your improvements. Wonderful work!

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9 hours ago, Pouln said:

Thierry, the level of detail in your engine bay at this scale is breathtaking. Your new dash looks already great. Be careful with your improvements. Wonderful work!

 

You're too kind with me, @Pouln, thanks a lot 👍

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Morning guys :)

 

A little bit of progress on the dash since my last post:
 

I've 3D drawn and printed a new handle for the handbrake (the lever I thought it was a starter, placed under the dash on the left side)

It will be painted with Molotov Chrome

 

53352720774_4091fc9d1e_z.jpg   53352845360_2488cc06ef_z.jpg

 

53352392761_604d19df63_z.jpg   53351515802_d3147db408_z.jpg

 

53351515832_6b11a535b9_z.jpg

 

I've 3D drawn and printed the different knobs of the dash and radio

They will be painted ivory.

 

53352720784_70888270bb_z.jpg   53351516187_7a468ab912_z.jpg

 

53352410241_285627ae99_z.jpg

 

I've 3D drawn and printed a new passenger handle (placed on the right side of the dash, on the right of the glove box).

It will be painted matt black

 

53352392796_9d7f81fdb7_z.jpg   53352615528_476d474fdc_z.jpg

 

53352737534_4a5a274ef2_z.jpg   53351533552_68e28de356_z.jpg

 

 

The meter's glasses have been simulated using drops of Gauzy agent put on the decals. Once dried, it's fully transparent and shiny

 

53344184347_b62c4caecd_z.jpg   53345407414_11353e72f2_z.jpg

 

I've scratched the gauche bezels, the elements of the fake glove box hinge,  and the chrome frame of the speaker and radio with Nickel-Chrome 0.25 mm wire

 

53352867735_3721d3629e_z.jpg   53351536537_a8840406a3_z.jpg

 

53344184387_766002e821_z.jpg   53352877380_972a731faf_z.jpg

 

 

I've already glued the bezels of the 3 meters and fabricated the fake hinge for the glove box.

 

53352649958_6e765cce7c_c.jpg

 

All those little bits of Nickel-Chrome 0.25 mm rod have been glued using Gauzy agent (from AK), instead of Micro Liquid Tape, because it's much less thick, dries faster and if much more transparent.

 

 

The thin mesh of the radio speaker, at the top center of the dash, will be simulated inserting in the hole a little piece of Tamiya sanding sponge I've painted with black and cut to the right dimensions (7x3 mm)

 

53352865205_c81d963ca7_c.jpg   53352861995_e4cef77c34_z.jpg

 

While in place, it will looks like this:

 

53352450246_078976ef54_c.jpg

 

I have still to glue the bezels of speaker and radio, to paint black the dash top edge and to place the six screws on it, to paint the handbrake handle and the knobs and radio buttons and fix them on the dash.

I've also to 3D print a new ignition key and a new BMW keychain.

 

53352439141_bd7e390708_c.jpg

 

To simulating the 6 screw on the dash top, I'll use Top Studio rivets, but not those on the picture above, only 0.5 mm ones.

 

So, see you later  :)

 

 

 

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Afternoon, mates :)

 

I've cleaned and sanded  smooth all the parts which need to be chromed, and then sprayed on them the gloss black undercoat, using Alclad Gloss black base.

 

I don't know how I did it any differently than usual, but the result is far beyond my expectations in terms of shine and sharpness:

 

53351816787_d654bb8d22_c.jpg   53353145385_da9cf94b4e_c.jpg

 

And it's the same for all the other decorative parts 😎

 

I MUST let them dry at least 4 days, due to the thickness of the layers I sprayed, before chroming them.

 

Stay tuned for next episode :)

 

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3 hours ago, CrazyCrank said:

Afternoon, mates :)

 

I've cleaned and sanded  smooth all the parts which need to be chromed, and then sprayed on them the gloss black undercoat, using Alclad Gloss black base.

 

I don't know how I did it any differently than usual, but the result is far beyond my expectations in terms of shine and sharpness:

 

It comes with practice mate, keep at it and you'll get to be quite good!  😂

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In my experience, there's only one issue with getting such a good shine unexpectedly like you've done - if you're like me I'll convince myself I've worked out this painting thing only to find that the next thing I paint is an orange peely mess😄. That said, I have a feeling you are pretty good at this painting lark judging by everthing I'vbe seen so far, so it probably doesn't apply to you.

 

Keep up the good work.

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This is looking great. Please don’t be offended but IMHO the choice of material for the speaker grille just doesn’t do the rest of the dashboard justice. 

I’m sure you’ve got this image (or better) 

 

53354000878_cf714c1811_b.jpg

 

its a very 60s style slotted grille - fine and regular. Your painted foam is coarse and irregular at that scale. 
even wet and dry sandpaper, I think would look better, maybe 600 or finer? You could have a go at embossing it maybe, stagger some thin metal gears together and roll across perhaps, or I would have a crack at printing it myself. 
 

I’m only saying this because the rest of it is so good, and you have gone to so much trouble on the finer points, this is a big obvious lump right in the middle of it all, and shouldn’t be too hard to fix. I know how it is, you stop seeing things in the end, I hope someone would tell me when I do this!

 

Hope you take this in the spirit it’s intended 👍

 

Nick

 

 

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7 hours ago, nick said:

This is looking great. Please don’t be offended but IMHO the choice of material for the speaker grille just doesn’t do the rest of the dashboard justice. 

I’m sure you’ve got this image (or better) 

 

53354000878_cf714c1811_b.jpg

 

its a very 60s style slotted grille - fine and regular. Your painted foam is coarse and irregular at that scale. 
even wet and dry sandpaper, I think would look better, maybe 600 or finer? You could have a go at embossing it maybe, stagger some thin metal gears together and roll across perhaps, or I would have a crack at printing it myself. 
 

I’m only saying this because the rest of it is so good, and you have gone to so much trouble on the finer points, this is a big obvious lump right in the middle of it all, and shouldn’t be too hard to fix. I know how it is, you stop seeing things in the end, I hope someone would tell me when I do this!

 

Hope you take this in the spirit it’s intended 👍

 

Nick

 

 

 

I'm pretty happy with your  comment, @nick 👍

 

I found this idea of painted foam was appropriate at this scale, but one finish always to be blind and not being able to see what is possibly wrong.
The foam has just been placed without glue, so, I'm going to think about a replacement solution, and will study your suggestions.
In any case, thank you very much for your compliments, much appreciated coming from you 😎

 

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Morning guys :)

 

Considering one of Nick's suggestions, I've attempted to draw the speaker gril, respecting the almost exact number of rows and columns of rectangular holes and their spacing, and I got this stuff, which is only a quick draft:

 

53354622878_6394e030db_c.jpg   53353526427_2618571e00_c.jpg

 

It looks very similar, but, at the right dimensions in 1:24scale, the gril is about 6.2 x 3.2 mm and obviously 0.1 mm height rectangular holes won't be visible once 3D printed.

I can try it, but am pretty sure of a bad result.(If we cheat, reducing the number of rows from 32 to 16, the holes will be 0.2, and perhaps the print would be more convincing, but we'll be inaccurate !)

Nevertheless, I'm going to launch a 3D print, just to see and show you

 

See you later :)

 

 

 

 

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Or I could try as well 2  other materials:

 

A fine "mesh" on adhesive silver paper (it could be enhanced by a black wash), but not the right number of rows

 

53354886200_b21cfe0710_c.jpg

 

Or , much better (?), a thin true metal 0.1 mm mesh, the same I used to make the grill of the bonnet air intake on my Mercedes Benz 300 SLR

 

53354886235_4fcfe62a09_c.jpg

 

It has not the right number of rows (30 would be needed to be accurate) but looks good imho:

 

53354899965_d3c9075038_c.jpg

 

Any comment would be appreciated :)

 

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Go with the 0.1mm metal mesh, it looks great, far more convincing than the other options and the incorrect number of rows will not be at all obvious to anyone - apart from the odd gnome.  🙂

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20 minutes ago, CrazyCrank said:

Or I could try as well 2  other materials:

 

A fine "mesh" on adhesive silver paper (it could be enhanced by a black wash), but not the right number of rows

 

53354886200_b21cfe0710_c.jpg

 

Or , much better (?), a thin true metal 0.1 mm mesh, the same I used to make the grill of the bonnet air intake on my Mercedes Benz 300 SLR

 

53354886235_4fcfe62a09_c.jpg

 

It has not the right number of rows (30 would be needed to be accurate) but looks good imho:

 

53354899965_d3c9075038_c.jpg

 

Any comment would be appreciated :)

 

All of those ideas immediately look much better to my eye. The mesh when painted, although not strictly the exact pattern, gives the impression of being spot on, just because it’s a regular pattern of about the right size. 
 

maybe it’s just the way I’m wired up but when I look at something and it seems right, I don’t look any harder, whereas if something doesn’t look right (lumpy foam for example 😎👍) it makes me look harder. 
 

once again I’ve caused you a load of work, but it really crowns it off already even with your test shot, rather than jumping out as being slightly off.  Sorry!

 

Nick

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If you send me the stl for your mesh if it doesn’t work, I’ll have a go at printing it for you, I may have a slightly higher res machine perhaps?

 

although the mesh looks great anyway and you probably don’t need to, I’m just curious if it will work! I managed to just about print needles for my Bentley gauges!

 

Nick

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Have you thought about printing the 'holes' on some clear decal sheet and then applying this to a piece of aluminium or brass?  So you wouldn't be able to see through the holes.  But even if you were able to print the mesh, I doubt you'd be able to see through them anyway - Andy 

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8 hours ago, CrazyCrank said:

Or I could try as well 2  other materials:

 

A fine "mesh" on adhesive silver paper (it could be enhanced by a black wash), but not the right number of rows

 

53354886200_b21cfe0710_c.jpg

 

Or , much better (?), a thin true metal 0.1 mm mesh, the same I used to make the grill of the bonnet air intake on my Mercedes Benz 300 SLR

 

53354886235_4fcfe62a09_c.jpg

 

It has not the right number of rows (30 would be needed to be accurate) but looks good imho:

 

53354899965_d3c9075038_c.jpg

 

Any comment would be appreciated :)

 

Great job!

I think the mesh is an elegant solution, sometimes you have to take liberties with accuracy in scaling down to achieve a convincing visual effect.

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10 hours ago, nick said:

If you send me the stl for your mesh if it doesn’t work, I’ll have a go at printing it for you, I may have a slightly higher res machine perhaps?

 

although the mesh looks great anyway and you probably don’t need to, I’m just curious if it will work! I managed to just about print needles for my Bentley gauges!

 

Nick

 

Thanks @nick for  offering this possibility, very kind of you, and thanks for your comment about my alternative solutions with fake mesh and true one :)

 

I apologize as well for my late answer to your here quoted post.... sorry but I went to Tours with Madam CrazyCrank to visit an IKEA store: she loves to spend money when it's mine 😂  and she decided that a new couch was absolutely needed in the living 🙄

 

I've 3D printed roughly this morning, just before leaving,  my speaker gril drawing,  at 0.05 mm layers .
At the naked eye, it looks like there is absolutely no relief, but, magnified by the camera, we can see the pattern, not so bad.

But, once painted, the thickness of the paint layers will mask everything, imho...

 

 

53354342122_82c672b5b8_c.jpg

 

Knowing that I printed it horizontally, without using the possibility of printing 0.01 mm layers along the Z axis.

 

53354374607_16bc494a02_c.jpg

 

I've so decided to attempt a new print, à 0.01 mm layers, placing the part almost vertically on the printing plate.

 

53355496448_1a8b7fa3ef_c.jpg

 

You can give me your email address by PM, and I'll send you my STL file.

I would be very  interested in knowing your Chitubox settings and part positioning on the plate.

 

See you soon, hopefully  :)

 

 

 

 

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