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BMW 507 Cabrio 1957 - Elvis Presley's one - Based on a Revell old kit 1:24


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Thierry, fabulous! 👏 I need to remind me that you are building in 1:24 scale. Amazingly good looking under-bonnet “scene”. 

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2 hours ago, Pouln said:

Thierry, fabulous! 👏 I need to remind me that you are building in 1:24 scale. Amazingly good looking under-bonnet “scene”. 

You're too kind with me, @Pouln, much appreciated compliment :)

 

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Afternoon, guys :)

 

Not a big progress  since a few days.

 

I went on working on the bonnet, and finally it has received 3 coats of automotive filling primer, just to fix the little defects.

Obviously, sanding stages between each layer.

And now, the surface finish is correct for the outside. A little wrk is still needed for the inside.

 

53321850517_81da0ee749_c.jpg

 

I've also begun to work on the seats:


- First, because of my modifications of the cabin, the seats didn't fit anymore. I've had to strongly sand them, where the plastic touched the edges of the cabin, in order to allow them to fit correctly.
- Second: the shapes of the seats's profile wasn't correct, and, taking inspiration of the photos below, I modified  the profile using Tamiya UV Light curing putty

 

53321831897_9bd39e0549_c.jpg   53321831922_17c9c8ace1_c.jpg

 

- Third: I re-scribed the grooves between each padding of the bottom and back of the seats, to deepen them a bit more, otherwise they'd fade away with the paint layers
- Fourth: I've begun to prime the seats with the same automotive filling primer, to reveal the defects. A lot of work is still to be done to get them satisfying .

 

53322668371_ef5698210d_b.jpg   53323014844_d81fdc4425_z.jpg

 

53323128085_7a9af3bba2_z.jpg

 

As I'm still waiting for the delivery of the material that will allow me to build a windscreen washer fluid tank, I killed time by studying again and again the available photos of the engine bay of Elvis' BMW 507 as restored, and I noticed some little things that could be added or corrected:

 

I've numbered them in red on the photo below:

 

53322689081_34c9ab6011_b.jpg


- There is, along the left side of the bonnet aperture, in front the brake master cylinder, a little silver cylinder, from which run 2 cables (1). I scratched it using 2 mm styrene rod and 2 short pieces of black electrical wire (0.3 mm)
- There is also, running from an appendix situated over the right piston housing of the brake master cylinder, a thin hose or cable, that goes towards the left side of the engine bay (I don't know what it is...) (2). I scratched it with the same electrical wire
- The steering box place above the left wheel housing is not black but actually aluminium color, so I painted it. I also took the opportunity to paint the screw heads on this box black, as is the case on the real car.(3 )
- Running out from the radiator cap underside, there is on the 1:1 car a hose that runs over the right edge of the radiator and ended somewhere in the lower part of the engine bay (I think it is a cooling radiator overflow breather ?): I scratched it using 0.8 mm electrical cable (4)
- At last, I noticed that there is, on the top of the aluminium steering box a big red "knob" (n° 5 on the photo below). I don't know what this part is and serve. The same part exist on the right side of the car on the right wheel housing. I scratched them with short sections of 1.0 mm red electrical wire, whose top section were painted red as well.(5)

 

And hereunder is the result:

 

53322949238_b7b8559150_z.jpg   53322949253_58001f3c22_z.jpg

 

53322719161_082a718e3b_z.jpg   53322719151_a99c8ebf0d_z.jpg

 

53323177560_4c39a3653f_c.jpg

 

53323177580_a05ccd981d_c.jpg

 

That's all for now, mates.

 

I've received my new white paint bottle, so the new bonnet will be painted in the next days, if weather allows :)

 

 

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Evening folks :)

 

The seats have got their final shape after I cut slightly off the front part of their base in order to obtain, on a profile view an empty acute triangular space, and on a front view, an empty space between the seat and the floor, as on a true car.
This will allow later on to add the handles that permit to move the seat forwards and backwards.

Difficult for me to explain with better words, so some pictures could help you to understand what I did.

 

53324939786_2cc22e1d1d_c.jpg   53324063007_5fba40aa74_c.jpg

 

53325186543_46ce1599bc_c.jpg  53325297219_c557ffc631_c.jpg

 

Furthermore, I've taken inspiration of the pictures below, and drilled two holes vertically aligned on the back of each seat. What's are they used for...I don't know !

After the painting job, a silver ring will be added around each hole, as on the true car.

 

53325470995_6cebdd0dcf_c.jpg

 

53325279729_00f8216157_c.jpg

 

Now, I've to fabricate the metallic plates that join the bottom and the back of the seats, on inner and outer sides, and whose articulations with the seat's bottom allow to fold the back forwards.

I could have modify the seats to get them foldable, but haven't done that....it would have been both very funny but also very pretentious of me !

 

53325358309_65cabac864_c.jpg

 

 

At last, I've decided to make a second dashboard, because I'm not pretty happy with the first one, which now seems too rough to me

 

53325393135_156c33b00a_c.jpg   53325169323_393ed429ff_c.jpg

 

I'll try to painting and clear coating it avoiding too thick layers, and to improve the fabrication of the meters.

And later on, I'll decide which one I keep

 

See ya later 😎

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As always, your precision and attention to detail leaves me somewhat breathless.  I see precisely what you mean about the seat mounting though, very effective it looks too.

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Good evening, guys :)

 

Not a lot of work today, was too lazy 😉

 

I still managed to spray the final primer (GRAVITY Light grey)  over the 2 sides of the bonnet, and I've to wait till tomorrow morning before slightly sanding it. We need to get a perfectly smooth and soft surface before spraying the base coat.

Although the surface seems to be very smooth at the naked eye, the close pictures reveal that it's not the case !

 

53327626134_84445f8013_c.jpg   53327505263_b56ec66d9c_c.jpg

 

I went on to improve the seats, trying to fabricate from scratch  the chromed plates that join the bottom and the back, and allow to fold it forwards.


I draw first a template on a 0.2 mm styrene sheet, cut it off and used it to cut a draft out of a 0.25 mm tin coated steel sheet. 
I then used various files to shape the form in the metal....but I didn't achieve to get a convincing stuff....
It's a shame, because having those plates in true metal would have been a great addition.

 

Anyways,  I've 3D drawn the plates, using a picture fro profile of the seat as a canvas,  and 3D printed them.

3D drawing the plate allowed me to add the 3 screws of the vertical portion and the rotation axis situated at the front end of the lower portion.

 

53325358309_65cabac864_c.jpg

 

53326447152_ce60714082_c.jpg   53327777265_99abbe04d3_c.jpg

 

53327666129_f3d234b432_c.jpg   53327543348_a2144e94db_c.jpg

 

53327317281_a681458229_c.jpg   53327665674_c00ab9e8a9_c.jpg

 

It just remains to paint them Chrome :).

The plates will be glued with PVA thinned glue at the very end of the seats's fabrication.

 

The most difficult job is now to paint the seats satin-matt black with the paddings in white, trying to imitate the leather texture, and overall not to let the white color overflow on the black.

 

In order to reduce the risks, I'll paint FIRST the black, using a lacquer, and then the white using an acrylic paint.

In this way, if the white overflows onto the black, I could try to correct the small defects using isopropyl alcohol, without ruining the black.

 

Thanks for watching 😎

 

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I forgot the fabrication of the handles that allow to move the seat forwards or backwards !

 

A steel rod 0.4 mm, bended with pliers
At the top end, several layers of UV resin, placed little by little, to get a roughly rounded shape.

At the end, I dip the UV resin sphere upside down into a jar of ivory paint, and that's it !

 

53327917980_0d1cc0e6a3_c.jpg

 

see you soon :)

 

 

 

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I should think so too!  How did you expect to move the seats without them?  You have mounted the seats on sliding runners, haven't you?  ...haven't you?  😁

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22 minutes ago, Neddy said:

I should think so too!  How did you expect to move the seats without them?  You have mounted the seats on sliding runners, haven't you?  ...haven't you?  😁

 

Of course @Neddy   !....In fact, they are still running !....And they're running so fast that I'll never be able to catch them 😂 😛

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Afternoon, guys :)

 

I was waiting for the delivery of my last order:  5.0mm transparent blue squared tube that I wanted to use to scratch a new windshield fluid tank, more accurate than the kit part.

It arrived yesterday, and I've been very disappointed: actually, the stuff is 5 mm inner side, and 6.5 outer !

 

So, I've tried to cut out of this tube smaller sections and to glue them with CA glue, to form the shape I desired.

I achieved to do that but the result is not very convincing, too rough.

 

53331972396_9c8992855a_c.jpg   53331095972_163ff5acd2_c.jpg

 

53332428340_f3b8ab5a77_c.jpg   53332312909_8164c8527e_c.jpg

 

53332199473_d75d0ca98e_c.jpg   53331095787_067a3c3a8a_c.jpg

 

53332199068_3312951cff_c.jpg

 

Perhaps I should try again and again ?....

 

I have some other ideas to fabricate a blue transparent fluid tank, but it's something new for me, and I'm hesitating at the moment to try this method.

 

So, I've temporalrilly used the kit part, using several techniques of painting, in order to get, if possible, a convincing result for a transparent glass tank, filed with blue washer fluid.

The result didn't raise the level I wished, but it's not so bad.

I've added a short section of transparent flexible tube 0.3 mm on the top of the tank cap, and 2 electrical wires red and black that runs from the underside of the black appendix of the tank (a pump ?)

 

53332427955_3d54a5e2be_c.jpg   53332427885_4ed381e78f_c.jpg

 

53331095502_0df06381b1_c.jpg   53331095762_7d0da67d7c_c.jpg

 

 

The new part has been placed without glue on its housing, waiting to be able to do better !

 

53332199498_115f72647b_c.jpg   53332428190_0e58ae3d86_c.jpg

 

53332312899_b514d2787d_c.jpg   53331095987_000bb2da9e_c.jpg

 

The transparent tube hasn't got its definitive place...

 

Thanks for watching  🙏

 

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21 hours ago, Spiny said:

Can you find/do you have anything clear the correct size? I'm just wondering whether it would be an option to make it in clear and paint it with clear blue paint such as Tamiya X-23?

 

It was my first idea, but I hadn't and didn't find the right material, so....

 

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7 minutes ago, CrazyCrank said:

 

It was my first idea, but I hadn't and didn't find the right material, so....

 

Perhaps some left over clear sprue can be used.

Or clear tinted resin, cast in a mold and fettled to fit?

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Evening gentlemen :)

 

I've received my bottle of Chamonix white, and so...:

 

The dashboard is painted:

 

53334139681_e5c37bf98d_c.jpg

 

The inner side of the new bonnet as well:

 

53334139706_5b652bf4ce_c.jpg   53334373178_a003b93dc1_c.jpg

 

I've placed aside of this parts a painted and cleared door, so that you can compare the colors, which seems the same to me :)

 

The outer side of the bonnet will be painted later, when the inner side is fully dried and the bonnet can be handled without any risk.

 

I'm waiting for the delivery of several shades of black I ordered with the aim to paint the black parts of the cabin, the seats, door interiors etc.

 

See you later :)

 

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16 minutes ago, Toftdale said:

 

Thanks Andy :)

I ordered this stuff in France, with the same specs; but got a wrong one: The dimensions were 5 mm inner width, but 6.5 outer.
Perhaps I should have ordered 3.5 mm one, but didn't want to pay again more than twice the price of the rod for shipping fees !

I'm going to see with your link how much it could be cost.

 

 

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Can’t find a reference image for the reservoir? But two things spring to mind if it’s what I think it is :-

1. Print a male and female plug and socket, rounded square peg and hole basically with a sufficient gap, wam up some thin clear sheet with a heat gun/hairdryer and press out the shape. I suspect you can’t see the top anyway as it disappears into a bracket? You could actually fill that with coloured clear resin then. Something this simple even a square hole in anything, ali, wood, scrap sheet and a wooden/plastic shaped peg would work just as well. It’s vac forming without the vac :)
2. Cut and polish a small piece of acrylic sheet, you can get all thickness/sizes/colours from Amazon. I’ve got some knocking around for jobs like this so don’t worry about buying more then you need, it will always find future uses. 

I wouldn’t be tempted with printing clear resin personally, that’s a big old rabbit hole to disappear down for a little job!

 

have fun and it’s looking great BTW - fit for a (the) King even. I’ll try and stop doing that, but it’s just soo tempting all the time. 
 

Nick

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11 hours ago, nick said:

Can’t find a reference image for the reservoir? But two things spring to mind if it’s what I think it is :-

1. Print a male and female plug and socket, rounded square peg and hole basically with a sufficient gap, wam up some thin clear sheet with a heat gun/hairdryer and press out the shape. I suspect you can’t see the top anyway as it disappears into a bracket? You could actually fill that with coloured clear resin then. Something this simple even a square hole in anything, ali, wood, scrap sheet and a wooden/plastic shaped peg would work just as well. It’s vac forming without the vac :)
2. Cut and polish a small piece of acrylic sheet, you can get all thickness/sizes/colours from Amazon. I’ve got some knocking around for jobs like this so don’t worry about buying more then you need, it will always find future uses. 

I wouldn’t be tempted with printing clear resin personally, that’s a big old rabbit hole to disappear down for a little job!

 

have fun and it’s looking great BTW - fit for a (the) King even. I’ll try and stop doing that, but it’s just soo tempting all the time. 
 

Nick

 

Thank you @nick 👍

It's a very good idea I didn't thought about !

I drew the male and plug sockets, and the print is on the go !

 

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Afternoon, guys :)

 

First attempt of "vac forming" without vacuum ! (Thanks again @nick )

 

The male and female sockets:

 

53336089785_040116f0e9_c.jpg

 

The result:

 

53335866078_4150c9aab3_c.jpg

 

53335865373_bb839f707c_c.jpg   53334750512_196d15410e_c.jpg

 

Encouraging but goal not yet reached : the height of the usable part of this clear acrylic part isn't enough: 2.5 - 3 mm when I need 4.5 - 5 mm

Under the 3 mm level, the acrylic sheet is not smooth but crumpled.

It's probably due to the lack of height of the moulds

 

So I've redrawn the sockets, taller, and the 3D print is on the go....2 hours waiting !

 

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1 hour ago, CrazyCrank said:

Afternoon, guys :)

 

First attempt of "vac forming" without vacuum ! (Thanks again @nick )

 

The male and female sockets:

 

53336089785_040116f0e9_c.jpg

 

The result:

 

53335866078_4150c9aab3_c.jpg

 

53335865373_bb839f707c_c.jpg   53334750512_196d15410e_c.jpg

 

Encouraging but goat not yet reached : the height of the usable part of this clear acrylic part isn't enough: 2.5 - 3 mm when I need 4.5 - 5 mm

Under the 3 mm level, the acrylic sheet is not smooth but crumpled.

It's probably due to the lack of height of the moulds

 

So I've redrawn the sockets, taller, and the 3D print is on the go....2 hours waiting !

 

Just cheat. Make two of those and use them as a top and bottom hidden by the band running around the middle :) you’re too honest, you need to be more disreputable like me. 

 

Nick

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Evening guys :)

 

Second female socket (taller than 1st one) broke after two usages, so I've redrawn it, reinforcing its walls and a new print is on the go :)

The 2 usages lead to  correct parts, but, one cut to he right dimensions, they were too weak.

I've to try with thicker sheet: The first one was 0.15 mm, the second one will be 0.22 mm.

 

In the meantime, I've finished to paint the new bonnet, and got, to within a wisker, the same shade than for the first one.

The subtile difference is due to the clear coat, which give more shine and , on the picture under artificial light, a very  little bit more of yellow/green in the color. In reality, at the naked eye, the colors are almost the same.

 

53336817870_dc289c622e_c.jpg

 

See ya later :)

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Evening guys :)

 

I've spent an excessive number of hours to fabricate the new washer fluid reservoir.

 

I've used the method Nick recommended, with taller sockets, and I got a very usable shape.


I cut the good length out of the  draft and I filled it with resin:
- first:  1 mm transparent resin at the top of the reservoir
- UV curing
- Then the remaining height with blue resin (transparent resin colored with droplets of Tamiya X23 clear blue)... probably too much because I've got a dark blue transparent reservoir, while I expected a lighter blue one.

 

Too bad, I've decided to go ahead with this one anyway rather than do another one.

 

I've then used my Dremel and a 1.5 mm milling bit to dig the resin in order to get a hollowed part, similar to the kit's one,  that I 'd be able later to put easily and correctly on the dedicated bracket.
The blue resin walls remained about 1 mm thick.

 

It remained to add the reservoir cap. I cut it out of the kit part, sanded it, drilled it 0.6 mm on its centre, and glued it on the top of the reservoir.


Then I scratched the metal frame of the reservoir bracket, imitating the kit part, with approx. 0.8 mm wide, and 0.2 mm thick styrene strips.
I cut out the lower appendix of the kit reservoir and glued it at the bottom of the new one.


A last, I cut a 2 mm section  of 0.6/0.4 mm brass tube, in which I inserted a 0.35 mm transparent flexible tube, and I inserted the whole set into the hole I drilled previously on the reservoir cap.

 

Little painting job, black, silver,  and...that's it !

 

I'm sorry I forgot to take pictures at all the stages, but I've some to show you:

 

 

53336089785_040116f0e9_c.jpg   53340641393_f894f48fa0_c.jpg

 

53340747704_c3fe399f17_c.jpg   53340417726_668c46232c_c.jpg

 

53340873440_a28ccc2edb_c.jpg   53339536097_291395b3e4_c.jpg

 

53340417541_73d5c61df0_c.jpg

 

I think that, once in place in the engine bay, nobody can see the difference with my previous painted reservoir.


Nevertheless, It's been worth it to do that,  because I've learnt a new technique, thanks to @nick :)

 

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I've just installed this last part of the engine bay.

 

53340495976_dd94650541_c.jpg   53340718823_e29c7dc82d_c.jpg

 

it remains to place correctly the transparent tube and the engine bay will be completed......???????.........Completed ? really ?


Taking a closer look at it, I noticed that the vertical hose which run from the  center of the firewall has disappeared !!!!!.

 

If we compare with a picture take on lat Tuesday :

 

53331095987_000bb2da9e_c.jpg


I think this hose unglued while handling the car, and probably was trapped in a corner somewhere in the engine bay.
I can't see it, but I can hear somme little clicks when I handle the body.

 

I had printed only one hose, so, to replace it, I've launched a new print, and I'll redo the painting job later on.

 

 

The new dashboard has been clear coated:

 

53340518511_fe257e1770_c.jpg

 

I've received all my new black and white paints, and I'll be able to start work on the cabin .

 

See ya tomorrow :)

 

 

 

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