CrazyCrank Posted October 7, 2022 Author Share Posted October 7, 2022 11 hours ago, Spiny said: Adjusting the handles is something I wouldn't have even considered, which just goes to show how much detail you're putting into this. It's looking very good, and the detail here shows why all your models end up looking superb. Thank you very much, @Spiny, but I've no merit : - First: I've found the idea while looking at other modeler's video on Youtube: A4 Garage and Kenji's Plastic Models - Second: I've not used strong enough magnets, so, since the door is heavy, if I spin the car on the right from about 30 degrees around its longitudinal axis, the door opens ! (what never occurs when you do the same with a well behaved door on a real car 😂 ) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 9, 2022 Author Share Posted October 9, 2022 Evening chaps Well, I do think that the preliminary work on the bodywork is at last finished this evening: The doors have been adjusted and fits quite perfectly with the body. They open and close smoothly and all the gaps have been filled as much and well as I could. The fuel trap opens correctly , as well has the trunk lid. It remained for me, in order to be totally happy, to articulate the bonnet as it is on the true car. - I haven't modified the system Revell supplied, even if it is not the reflect of the reality, because that would have been possible but very risky to do it. - nevertheless, I've enhanced it, because with the Revell system, the bonnet wasn't correctly retained on the body and often detached from it. - But the best I've done is to add the opening and retaining linkage that exist on the real car ! Let's see what it looks like on to different photos : So, it consists in 2 parts. The lower one is a slide rail; in which can slide the upper part. The 2 parts are articulated: - the lower one with the bodywork - the upper one with the bonnet Revell's kit supplies a part which could be a slide rail, but which is planned to be attached on the body AND on the bonnet, so tat no movement is possible. It is supplied to be used to represent the car with bonnet opened ! I've used this plastic part that I've cut, removing its upper part (about 5 mm) And I've closed the rail, glueing on it a piece of clear 0.18 mm sheet. At last, the upper part of the system has been fabricated using a 1.0 mm wide (0.2 mm thick) Nickel-Silver strip, that I drilled 0.6 mm on its upper end. The hole allow a 0.5 mm steel wire that I've fixed on the bonnet frame with CA glue, to thread into it. I've modified the fixing point of the Revell kit part (the plastic rail) on the body, cutting the plastic pin, and drilling a 0.7 mm hole into the stand in order to be able to thread into it a sewing needle And all this work gives that: Short videos to show you how it works : Hope you enjoy See you soon with the first primer layer on all bodywork parts 😎 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiny Posted October 9, 2022 Share Posted October 9, 2022 Got to say that that bonnet strut mechanism is extremely impressive - not just the design but the execution of it too. Great work. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 9, 2022 Author Share Posted October 9, 2022 12 minutes ago, Spiny said: Got to say that that bonnet strut mechanism is extremely impressive - not just the design but the execution of it too. Great work. Thank you very much, @Spiny for this huge praise, much appreciated 😎 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neddy Posted October 9, 2022 Share Posted October 9, 2022 Wot Spiny said! 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 10, 2022 Author Share Posted October 10, 2022 Morning gentlemen You could believe you've finished the preliminary job on the body, but it remains always an something to do you had forgotten ! Indeed, in my "haste", I forgot to modify the air intake grill that is just in front of the windscreen, and its housing on the body, which is not hollowed out ! So, I did this job this morning. I've removed the 3 parts of the grill that are supposed to represent mesh, keeping only the chromed frame. I've also thinned the part, sanding it from below, because it was too protruding from the body once in place. The meshed parts will be added later with some spare mesh from my Tamiya Mercedes 300SL or Revell 300SLR,,,,I've not yet decided. I've hollowed out the grill housing on the bodywork. The kit's grill, before and after the job: The chrome will be removed with bleach, an he grill carefully sanded in order to decrease the thickness of the frame before painting. The grill housing on the body, before and after the job The new grill in place on the modified body: You have just to imagine how it will look like with mesh by underneath See you later 😎 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 Lovely work on the bonnet strut. Is the boot the same? It's almost identical (as is the heater air intake) to an MGB, which used the same strut to hold the boot open. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 10, 2022 Author Share Posted October 10, 2022 2 hours ago, Brandy said: Lovely work on the bonnet strut. Is the boot the same? It's almost identical (as is the heater air intake) to an MGB, which used the same strut to hold the boot open. Ian Thanks Ian for the kind words And ouuups !!! I've also forgotten the retaining system for the boot lid. I've just sprayed the first layer of rough primer to reveal the imperfections (yes, there's some ) but before sanding and re-priming, I have to fabricate the boot strut. Thanks too for having pointed this issue 😎 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 10, 2022 Author Share Posted October 10, 2022 2 hours ago, CrazyCrank said: Thanks Ian for the kind words And ouuups !!! I've also forgotten the retaining system for the boot lid. I've just sprayed the first layer of rough primer to reveal the imperfections (yes, there's some ) but before sanding and re-priming, I have to fabricate the boot strut. Thanks too for having pointed this issue 😎 I quote myself this evening ! Indeed, after having searched on the Web for pictures of a retaining mechanism for the boot, it appeared that there's no strut or other apparent mechanism. In support of my allegation, a few photos among many others that show the same thing : Such a mechanism, imho, is mandatory to avoid the lid to fall on you head ! But which one ? bets are on ! I wonder if it's not hidden in the hinges themselves ? It could take the form of cams ? See you soon 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lvp Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 47 minutes ago, CrazyCrank said: I quote myself this evening ! Indeed, after having searched on the Web for pictures of a retaining mechanism for the boot, it appeared that there's no strut or other apparent mechanism. In support of my allegation, a few photos among many others that show the same thing : Such a mechanism, imho, is mandatory to avoid the lid to fall on you head ! But which one ? bets are on ! I wonder if it's not hidden in the hinges themselves ? It could take the form of cams ? See you soon Looking at the pictures, it appears to be held up by a torsion bar arrangement. Maybe could be replicated by brass rods. With a little bit of solder, it might actually be functional! That's beyond my capabilities, but I suspect you might be able to achieve it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 10, 2022 Author Share Posted October 10, 2022 Evening chaps As the primer's fully dried, I've been able to see and mark the defects, with a black cross, and I've begun to sand the major defect, which is on the top of rear fender, where there was the engraving of the BMW series 1 fuel flap ! Furthermore, with the thickness of the primer layer, the doors don't close as correctly than they did previously, and, here too, a sanding and adjusting job has to be made. The defect is particularly visible on the driver's door. This work will be mostly done the next two days. Some pictures of the current state : It remains a lot of work to do to get a satisfying bodywork, but I'm on the right path 😎 See you later, thanks for watching 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 10, 2022 Author Share Posted October 10, 2022 12 minutes ago, Lvp said: Looking at the pictures, it appears to be held up by a torsion bar arrangement. Maybe could be replicated by brass rods. With a little bit of solder, it might actually be functional! That's beyond my capabilities, but I suspect you might be able to achieve it. Thanks for you contribution, @Lvp I was wondering what those two rods that go through the lower hinge brackets and seem to be attached to the sides of the trunk were for, and, in light of what you say, I'm wondering if you're not right?.....Maybe I don't understand how that works at all ! I am able to represent them, with brass rod, but certainly not to make them functional, for two reasons: 1/ it is too late to intervene on the hinges, which are not perfectly faithful to reality. 2/ I don't understand how it works, as I already said above ! 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neddy Posted October 11, 2022 Share Posted October 11, 2022 LVP's right, they are twin torsion bars, one acting on each hinge. Clever arrangement and I can't for the life of me see how you could make it work in miniature. Maybe thin nylon filaments would have the necessary torsional flexibility but the ends would need to be attached very firmly to both hinges and bodywork to make it work. Adjustment would be a complete nightmare too as it would mean changing the filaments for fractionally thicker or thinner ones. You might be able to cheat by using thin brass tubing with thinner brass rod inside, tight enough to be just short of an interference fit, thus replacing torsional loading with friction sufficient to hold the trunk lid open, but that's about as far as I could envisage it going. Just my two cents' worth... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 11, 2022 Author Share Posted October 11, 2022 7 hours ago, Neddy said: LVP's right, they are twin torsion bars, one acting on each hinge. Clever arrangement and I can't for the life of me see how you could make it work in miniature. Maybe thin nylon filaments would have the necessary torsional flexibility but the ends would need to be attached very firmly to both hinges and bodywork to make it work. Adjustment would be a complete nightmare too as it would mean changing the filaments for fractionally thicker or thinner ones. You might be able to cheat by using thin brass tubing with thinner brass rod inside, tight enough to be just short of an interference fit, thus replacing torsional loading with friction sufficient to hold the trunk lid open, but that's about as far as I could envisage it going. Just my two cents' worth... Your first solution is impossible to realize, sorry ! The hinges I made are an approximation and absolutely not the exact copy of the true system. So impossible to place the torsion bars where they are in reality And even if it could be realized, the adjustment of the positions and of the strength to get would be a true nightmare. Regarding your second proposition, it's an interesting solution, BUT it requires that: -1. the thin brass rod can slide into the brass tube, at enough hard-friction: not a difficulty for me. -2. the rod end which is attached on one hinge and the other end which is attached on the body are both articulated ! 🤔😲 That is quite impossible to realize as well ! So, these torsion bars will be represented, but fake, and I'm probably going to cheat, if I achieve to find in my crazy brain another system that would work and would be invisible ! CC PS: Another acceptable solution will be I give up and get back to knitting 🤣 2 1 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 16, 2022 Author Share Posted October 16, 2022 Afternoon guys I've fixed as best as I could all the imperfections I saw after the grey primer layer has been sprayed, and have this morning, thanks to the relatively dry weather, I sprayed the last layers of filler primer (MOTIP filler color "Sand"). The state surface seems excellent, very smooth and imho, no sanding will be needed. I let it dry for at least 48 hours and then, if weather allows, I' ll put the final coats of pearl white on the body and chassis. In the meantime, I think I'm going to begin the work on the engine Stay connected for next steps 16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neddy Posted October 16, 2022 Share Posted October 16, 2022 Looking forward to them already... 🍿 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bengalensis Posted October 16, 2022 Share Posted October 16, 2022 Looking very nice and tidy under a uniform coat of colour! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 17, 2022 Author Share Posted October 17, 2022 On 10/16/2022 at 5:09 PM, Neddy said: Looking forward to them already... 🍿 Don't be so eager On 10/16/2022 at 7:36 PM, Bengalensis said: Looking very nice and tidy under a uniform coat of colour! Thanks Jôrgen 👍 but it's not the final color ! just the last primer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 17, 2022 Author Share Posted October 17, 2022 Evening gentlemen I began yesterday evening to work on the engine. It's a nightmare ! the fitting of engine's block parts is problematic, there' s a lot of burrs on them, abysmal gaps between parts etc... So a lot of filing, sanding, filling etc was needed. But it was worth the efforts ! On the top part of the engine block, between the cylinder heads, Revell has molded two looms ("flute " ?, I want to mean "cable distributor/channeler") that are used on the real car, to channeling the spark plugs cables. Obviously, on this kit, no spark plug cables are supplied ! you have to scratch them for yourself if you want to represent them...of course, it's my case ! So, I've removed the molded looms , that will be replaced by 1.0 mm aluminium tubes, slightly flattened and drilled where needed. Those new looms will allow to represent correctly the ignition system. Therefore, I had to drill on the cylinder heads 8 holes for the 8 sparks plugs of this V8 engine. What I made easily, taking inspiration of these photographs for placing the holes : The second photo has been taken by the mechanics who restored Elvis' BMW 507 The actual state of my engine : Stay connected if you like and thanks for watching 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 21, 2022 Author Share Posted October 21, 2022 Good afternoon guys A little bit of progress since a few days ! I've added to the engine block: - the rock-arms covers (painted steel and polished) - the gearbox, which has needed a lot of sanding and gap fillings - I've painted the oil pan the same color of rock-arms covers: steel. - I've fabricated the oil gauge housing and its dipstick, that were not provided in the kit I took inspiration of this photo: Making of: - drill a hole in the oil pan with 0.8 mm bit, at an angle of about 30° relatively to the vertical, from top towards bottom - drill two 0.8mm holes in a plastic rectangular parallelepiped of 2.5x2x1.5 - Insert in the holes 2 sections of 0.8 mm aluminium tube.The front one will simulate the oil drainer and is vertical, the rear one is slightly bended at its bottom end, which will be inserted in the oil pan hole - Make the dipstick with 0.18 mm nickel-chrome wire, bended to get the correct shape. And a short section of 0.5 mm brass tube has been cut out and the dipstick threaded into it... - The hole set as been assembled, glued together, primed, painted semi-gloss black, except for the dipstick that has been painted red, and the while set has been clear coated semi-gloss as well. Some photos of the process: It remains to paint rubber black the oil drainer, and I could next go on with the looms and the cabled spark plugs. Stay tuned for next steps 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 23, 2022 Author Share Posted October 23, 2022 (edited) Good evening guys A lot of progress since my previous post ! I've fabricated 8 spark-plugs and their cables. I used: - black electrical micro wire 0.27 mm diameter, 6 medium sections and 2 large - 8 sections of 0.5 mm brass tube, 4 mm long each - 8 sections of 0.8 mm aluminium tube, 0.5 mm long each - The alu parts have been threaded on the brass ones, placed a little before the centre - the black wires have been threaded at one end of the brass tubes - the brass tube above the alu section and this last one have been painted red (a mi 50/50 of gloss and flat reds) - the brass tube under the alu section has been painted white, to simulate the ceramic part of a spark plug A last this 8 elements have been placed into the 8 holes of the engine block The looms have been fabricated with 1 mm aluminium tube, 2 sections of 12 mms, in which of each one I've drilled 3 holes. Why only 3 holes and not 4, since there's 4 cylinder on each sides ? Because the front spark plugs cables doesn't go through the looms, they come directly from the distributor ! The looms have been glued in place with 3 droplets of fluid CA. At last, the 3 rear spark plug cables of both sides of the engine have been cut to the right length and the cables inserted in the holes of the looms The distributor provided in the Revell kit (BMW 507 series 1 ) seems to be a series 2 one ! , but, when Elvis's BMW has been restored, they have used a different distributor, on which the cables are plugged on the top of it. So, I can't use the kit part, and I've designed a good one with Fusion 360 Sans titre by Thierry Decorniquet, sur Flickr Sans titre by Thierry Decorniquet, sur Flickr I took the opportunity to design as well a coil, because this visible part when the bonnet's opened, has not been supplied by Revell !!! These parts are currently 3D printing, it will take 2 hours ! But that's not all. I also began to work on the other kit parts of the engine. It took 2 hours to clean them and make them acceptable, particularly the pulleys and bel systems. But I've had to modify others because they were not accurate or incomplete . That was the case for the exhaust manifolds and for the alternator. The exhaust manifolds supplied by Revell have the right shapes BUT on the real ones, there is 3 fins on each one, which, imho, are there to reduce the heating, offering additional surfaces for air cooling when the car runs I intended to reproduce them adding tiny strips of 0.18 mm styrene The alternator is molded with another part of the engine, and is very basic. Its pulley is inaccurate, there's not the cooling propeller, so I added it, from scratch with 0.18 mm styrene sheet, magnifying glasses and a lot of patience That's it ! What !!! that's all ?....well yes 🤣 Next episode on Tuesday evening ! Stay tuned if you like 😎 Edited November 7, 2022 by CrazyCrank 11 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neddy Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 Stay tuned?? I wouldn't miss it for the world. I have to keep reminding myself what scale you're working in, the fine detail is incredible. However much you're paying the trained gnome to do the micro-engineering, it's not enough. 🙂 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOUSTON Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 On 7/27/2022 at 2:55 PM, Hannes said: The restauration of the original car is shown in the video above. Great work, dear Thierry! Watching the video as I catch up with Thierry's build .... It was ASTOUNDING seeing how bad Elvis's BMW 507 looked . And those guys did a SUPERB job on restoration. The metal work and overall finish and workmanship is EXQUISITE . IT looks IMPECCABLE AND IMPRESSIVE. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOUSTON Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 Thierry, EXEMPLARY Workmanship . You are very meticulous and methodical in your build. SUPERB job so far, even with trails and tribulations and door changes , your work is flawless. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 24, 2022 Author Share Posted October 24, 2022 2 minutes ago, HOUSTON said: Thierry, EXEMPLARY Workmanship . You are very meticulous and methodical in your build. SUPERB job so far, even with trails and tribulations and door changes , your work is flawless. Thank you so much Houston for this huuuuuuge praise and the incredible number of « likes » you gave to my thread 👍😎😉 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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