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BMW 507 Cabrio 1957 - Elvis Presley's one - Based on a Revell old kit 1:24


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11 hours ago, Pouln said:

I think you have to “weld” in struts to strengthen the body and get the required rigidity, while you are working on it. Just like the 1:1 “modelers” do.

Struts forming triangles will make it sort of impossible to deform the body.

 

One thing is certain, though. You are not afraid to execute risky operations 👍

Exactly what I said yesterday: As you can see, now, the body is very fragile, since the front and rear parts are joined together only by the 2 thin portion of sockliner !

That's why I'm going to consolidate the whole thing, in a temporary way, by taping plastic strips inside, thick enough to be rigid, which will allow me to continue working on the body without worrying too much about a new break, which this time would be catastrophic."

 

Taping seems to me preferable, instead of "welding" (glueing), because  less risky when time will come to remove the struts, imho.

Obviously, I could be wrong.

I'll begin with tape, and check the rigidity . If needed, I'll glue them.

 

Courageous, but not foolhardy 🙄

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5 hours ago, Vesa Jussila said:

I am not specialist of this car and based on your build I started to look some information related to it. Maybe you want make car in early stage when it was driven in hill climb by Hans Stuck Sr. Car is exactly Elvis car.

 

https://supercarnostalgia.com/blog/bmw-507-chassis-70079-elvis-presley

 

Thanks for this Info, Vesa, I've learnt a lot with this article.

Nevertheless,  I've planed to make it as it was when Elvis bought it.

And it will be without the hardtop, in open-top version.

 

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23 hours ago, CrazyCrank said:

 

I'm not interested in recent cars, so I didn't even know that a BMW Z8 existed 🙄

 

Recent in this case being about 20 years ago 😆 Whoever said modellers don't live in the past? ;)

 

 

Edited by Spiny
How on earth did I manage to triple post in one reply???
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9 minutes ago, Spiny said:

 

Recent in this case being about 20 years ago 😆 Whoever said modellers don't live in the past? ;)

 

 

 

As far as I remember, I've always preferred vintage cars.

As a child (I was born in 1958), I loved to assemble simplistic kits of 1900-1910-1920s cars that I could get from the "MOKAREX" brand of coffee packets my parents liked, and later, as a teenager, I was only interested in Heller models from the 1930-1940s. 
As you can see, as I got older, my preferences for vintage cars got younger!
But at the moment, apart from the 1971 Renault Alpine A110 1600S and the much more recent Porsche Carrera GT, I have a predilection for cars up to the 1960s.
Given my age, this is neither abnormal nor worrying!

So, Yes, I live in the past, because I'm a very sensitive and nostalgic person 🤣

 

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Evening chaps :)

 

This is my last post in this thread...Because I'm temporarily leaving tomorrow my house for a 10-day holiday by the sea with my granddaughters, and nothing is more important than my family 🙂.
 

Nevertheless, I've made a little progress today on the bodywork !:

 

- I've strengthen  the body on the area of the boot aperture, where it has broken.
- I've taped some thick styrene structs on the body to enhance its rigidity while working on it.
- I've put some putty on the break area and on the fuel filler flap, that Revell has placed on the top of the body while it's placed on the vertical side of the rear right fender !
- And I've cleaned and glued the lower part of the body's nose

 

52195436262_8427a0c865_c.jpg   52196931410_2c9f372186_c.jpg

 

52196706389_45bacb73e8_c.jpg   52196459153_2a480890c3_c.jpg

 

A you can see, putty is needed to enhance the appearance of the body's nose :)

 

This build will go on slowly, as I like to do, what allows me to think about the next steps and the planning of successive operations

 

See you soon, after July 16th 😎

 

 

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2 hours ago, PhilX said:

Like very much this car ... 😍

 

Seems to me that replacement rims are available on Shapeways.

 

 

Thanks PhilX

I noticed that Elvis 507 had Rudge wheels.
I’ve planed to replace the kit rims by my own 3D printed ones 😉

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18 hours ago, CrazyCrank said:

Thanks PhilX

I noticed that Elvis 507 had Rudge wheels.
I’ve planed to replace the kit rims by my own 3D printed ones 😉

So, it's better ... 🙂

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello guys :)

 

I'm back to the bench !

 

I've spent a lot of time since I came back, to studying the numerous press articles and reference photographs of the BMW 507 !


It appeared  quickly that there were 2 issues of this car: The 1 series, and the 2 series.
I'm not sure if Revell's BMW 507 is a 1 or a 2, but what I'm sure of, is that Elvis 's one wasn't the same as for Revell kit.

 

For Elvis one:


- The dashboard was very different

 

52231629796_69932b448a_c.jpg   52231893159_bdf580bebb_c.jpg

 

Rather than trying to modify the kit dash, I've planned to 3D print a new one, another big challenge and probably several attempts to get the right shapes

 

- The location of the fuel flap was different, not on the top of the rear right fender, but on its side

 

52232024329_55ab509ed9_c.jpg    52232102920_0789d622d5_c.jpg


- The interior shapes of the trunk was different, and must be fabricated, as my trunk will be openable .

 

52231917704_a84e5a4cdc_c.jpg


- It was a convertible car but had too a detachable hard top.

 

 

So, a lot of "plastic" surgery, 3D design and 3D print must be done to represent Elvis's BMW.

 

 

I also noticed that the shapes of the fuel tank ,on Revell's kit are absolutely wrong, so that here too, surgery was needed.

 

52231931054_0024240a89_c.jpg   52230669767_c84dd213b2_c.jpg

 

52232109940_81fc76c481_c.jpg

 


And also that Revell's kit has 2 locations  for placing  the side mirrors ! But Elvis one had only one , on the left side

 

52231753578_c19d70a731_c.jpg   52231687303_2384ec309b_c.jpg

 

 

What have I already done ?

 

- 1/ I've decrease the thickness of the plastic on the wheel arches, as I did for my previous build.


- 2/ I've filled with putty the  right  side mirror location and the  wrong location of fuel flap.


52230697877_784e711469_c.jpg   52230664482_4283d8eaa6_c.jpg

 

-3/ I've I cut out the location of the fuel door on the right wing of the car and scratch-built with styrene sheet a new door, which will be moveable

 

52230691637_1ded902efa_c.jpg


- 4/ I've cut out the bottom of the wrong fuel tank, and scratch-built a new one with styrene sheet. I've also begun to modify slightly with putty the shape I got, in order to round the angles and join correctly (flush)  the walls of the old tank


52232140005_f79cf2299f_c.jpg   52232140005_f79cf2299f_c.jpg

 

52231713123_ed68abc72d_c.jpg   52231708501_aae31c7573_c.jpg

 

52232193210_55914cd977_c.jpg   52231703816_25dd39923b_c.jpg

 

52231717823_2344828bdd_c.jpg   52231714506_0a23f87b9c_c.jpg

 

After 1 or 2 stages of putty filling, once the sanding job is done and I've got satisfying shapes, 4 thin half-rounded strips of styrene will be glues on the bottom of the fuel tank, to imitate the real thing.

 

In the meantime:

 

52231732136_d71fa2dbef_c.jpg   52230732547_f90c858118_c.jpg

 

52232216890_d63a222747_c.jpg

 


- 5/ I've begun to work on the interior design of the new trunk, above the fuel tank, in order to manage the spare wheel housing.

 

52231720026_1d08be969a_c.jpg   52230724932_77c9ff2fdf_c.jpg

 

52232206685_5f1ede0372_c.jpg   52231999814_b981cf1205_c.jpg

 

52232210905_b9eab2c6c0_c.jpg

 

Well, I'm sorry these pictures aren't very sexy, but I'm in the destruction / rebuilding phase of the body and it was interesting, I think, to show you the path I followed.

 

Stay tuned if you like 😉 and thanks for watching 😎

 

 

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Keep em coming. You never know, someone may use them as a reference for their own build of this car at one point!😁

 

impressive surgery by the way.

 

Nick

Edited by Fnick
Fixed tyop
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Nice work.

I find the pics of this stage of a build the most interesting, as it shows both the thought process and the build methods!

 

Ian

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Me too.  The build story and pics are fascinating, the attention to detail, quality, skill and creativity shown is to an amazing standard.

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21 hours ago, Fnick said:

Keep em coming. You never know, someone may use them as a reference for their own build of this car at one point!😁

 

impressive surgery by the way.

 

Nick

 

Thank you for the kind praise and great humour, Nick 👍

 

1 hour ago, Brandy said:

Nice work.

I find the pics of this stage of a build the most interesting, as it shows both the thought process and the build methods!

 

Ian

 

Thank you so much, Ian, for this kid comment. I'm happy if my pictures and explanations may help 😎

 

1 hour ago, Neddy said:

Me too.  The build story and pics are fascinating, the attention to detail, quality, skill and creativity shown is to an amazing standard.

 

Wow, I would like to deserve this huge praise, but it's only little surgery. Thank you very much, anyway 😉

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Good evening (or morning)  chaps  :)

 

Not a big progress today, but  I've found some time this morning - before lady CC wakes up and gives me a series of household chores to do 🤣 -, and tonight for going on with the interior design of the rear trunk and making  the hinge to open and close the fuel door.


And first of all, I had yesterday drawn in 3D and 3D printed an essential part behind this flap: the fuel filler neck housing 

 

52236748259_dfdb290f2e_c.jpg   52236747569_1321677e6d_c.jpg

 

52236746919_3675a26ce1_c.jpg

 

I've not yet designed the fuel tank filler cap

 

Then, I cut the side walls of the trunk out of a 0.4 mm styrene sheet.
I installed and glued the left side on the chassis.

 

52236960345_a42695454c_c.jpg

 

Then, I scratch-built the flap hinge:

- A short section of 0.6 mm brass tube

- Drill à 0,3 mm hole at an end

- Thread a 0.3 mm copper rod in the hole, protruding on both sides

- Solder the stuffs in-between , right angle, clean etc.

 

52236470091_de05c911c5_c.jpg

 

Then I fabricated the second part of the hinge with 2 short sections of square styrene rod 2.0 mm, drilled 0.6 mm on their centre

 

52235487752_f77381ae34_c.jpg   52236746979_d527e711ba_c.jpg

 

52236748254_0fb5836b9c_c.jpg   52236482388_c40a23bd73_c.jpg

 

Then I installed the system  on the inside of the right rear wing, then installed and glued the tank filler neck, and finally adjusted and glued the hatch on its hinge.

 

52236482348_b7700438b4_c.jpg   52236481538_cef8a656f9_c.jpg

 

52236959195_25e49865d9_c.jpg   52235488577_b1f1147d6f_c.jpg

 

52236960170_d72407a2fc_c.jpg   52235488777_57e495db5e_c.jpg

 

52235488642_dd21013a41_c.jpg   52236747964_f752c2c746_c.jpg

 

52236748079_f64ac93685_c.jpg   52236747979_facb658ba7_c.jpg

 

 

There's still some cleaning and cosmetic improvement to do there, but the main part is there.

 

 

Once this was done, I presented the right side panel, located where I had to drill a 2.0 mm hole, drilled the hole, and glued the panel in place.

All that was left to do was to drill a 2.0 mm hole in the bottom of the trunk, above the tank, in line with the hole in the side panel, bend and arc a section of 2.00 aluminium tube, and thread it through the two previous holes!

 

I took inspiration  of this picture:

 

52236515631_e5c06da716_c.jpg

 

Result, not strictly the same but convincing imho :
 

52236747914_b09b14fd4b_c.jpg


I've next prepared the fabrication of the trunk hinges, and first of all, I've located, studying ref, pictures, the place where the hinges will be installed.

I've so been able to make the front panel of the trunk, and have created a passage for the hinges on this panel, with hobby knife and files

 

52236482633_27cc6b0b50_c.jpgSans titre by Thierry Decorniquet, sur Flickr

 

52236529791_ab246bd2b0_c.jpgSans titre by Thierry Decorniquet, sur Flickr

 

I took inspiration of these pictures for making the hinges and preparing their installation on the underside of the trunk lid:

 

52236515631_e5c06da716_c.jpg   

 

52237025050_4387f89ce5_c.jpgSans titre by Thierry Decorniquet, sur Flickr

 

On the last one, you can notice the armature of the lid, where, the hinges are fixed

 

That's why I fabricated it with .8 mm brass rod 

 

52236960460_d829da7d9d_c.jpg

 

And I begun to scratch-build the hinges themselves , using 2 section of 1.0 mm brass tube and 2 others of 0.5 mm brass tube


- I drilled 0.5 mm holes on one end of each 1.0 mm brass tube
- Threaded in the holes the 0.5 mm brass tubes
- And soldered  the 2 sets in order to get a T shape
- Then I flattened the 1.0 mm tubes, starting from the soldering point, over an adequate length.

 

52236482793_865dbd18c4_c.jpg   52236566126_c3306a16cb_c.jpg

 

52237056575_407487df70_c.jpg   52235488917_6f285866f3_c.jpg

 

I am well aware that it would have been preferable to use 1.5 x 1.0 mm wide U-shaped brass profile to make the metal part of the hinges, but I do not have it.

This is a shortcoming I will fill for future projects, or perhaps for this one, if a quick delivery is possible.

 

The job isn't finished , it remains to:

- Bend the same way the flattened 1.0 mm tubes, to get a U shape, followed by a short straight section at right angle, which will be glued under the lid, between the 2 parallel sections of the armature.
- Fabricate the second part of the 2 hinges, which will allow the hinges to spin, to raise the lid. I'll use 4 sections of styrene square rod, drilled 0.6 mm in their centre, and will glue them on the underside of the bodywork, just in front of the lid, trapping the top of the T (in 0.6 mm tube) from the hinges, in the same way as I did for the fuel cap access hatch

 

Stay connected for next episodes :)

 

 

 

 

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On 7/24/2022 at 9:54 AM, Bengalensis said:

Once again a series of superb work is started, Very impressive! 👍

Thank you very much for this untimely praise, Jörgen 👍

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Morning gentlemen :)

 

Well, I think that the chassis work is almost achieved !
I've sanded the putty on the underside of the fuel tank, and glued on it 4 thin  half-rounded styrene strips
, taking inspiration of some ref. photos (See above please)

 

52240071114_84c57ba7e0_c.jpg   52238808587_168a888cae_c.jpg

 

52239785936_d42c1787c4_c.jpg

 

It remains, before priming, to glue at the right place the front panel of the trunk interior, but this can't be done at te moment.

Indeed, I have first to install and glue at the right place the trunk hinges .

The ones I fabricated recently are ready but, finally, I'm going to wait for the delivery or some brass stuffs, particularly the U-shaped rails, to redo them, in order to be closer with the real thing.

 

In the meantime, I'm currently thinking about the openable doors and the method I'll use to fabricate them and to fill the gaps created between the bodywork and the cabin floor while cutting the doors.

 

This implies ignoring the assembly instructions, which say to fully assemble the passenger compartment, then glue it to the chassis, and only then place the body on top of it.
I think I'd have to work in reverse, i.e. make the parts to fill the gaps between the cabin and the body at the doors, glue them in the right place on the body, or on the cabin, make and install the door hinges, then, after assembly and complete painting of the body and the cabin, glue the cabin in the body, before installing the whole on the chassis.

 

Stay tuned if you like :)

 

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On 7/25/2022 at 6:01 PM, Brandy said:

I see another masterpiece in the making. Lovely work so far!

 

Ian

Thank you so much, Ian 😊

 

13 hours ago, JeroenS said:

Your scratchbuilding is amazing Thierry.

Not su much, Jeroen, thank you very much  anyway ;)

`

8 hours ago, Pouln said:

Ah Thierry, I see that you are going “all-in” with this build. Indeed amazing stuff.

You're too kind with me, Poul 🙃

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