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JO-HAN 1/25th scale 1962 Plymouth Fury


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This is the completed model featured in this WIP thread.

 

Production ground to a halt about three weeks ago when a bout of Real Life intruded and I had to abandon everything.  Having just got back to it I realised I was too close to finishing it to place further stages in the WIP thread so I dived for the finish line and this is the result...

 

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The kit was a curious mixture of crude and clever design, dreadfully flash-ridden minor components and a beautifully moulded bodyshell.  All in all I enjoyed the build but it's at the lower limit for me size-wise, I'm more comfortable with larger scale kits more suited to my limited dexterity and eyesight.  Two points in particular to mention...

 

1)  The slightly more eagle-eyed amongst you will have noticed the heads of four red chassis mounting posts on the underside of the car.  I've left them unpainted for the photos to illustrate a feature I particularly liked in that the chassis is positively located onto the underside of the bodyshell by these posts making chassis location and alignment a doddle.  They also helped dial out some warping (inevitable in a kit as old as this, it's 1960s vintage) in the chassis as it was fitted.

 

2) You my also notice a distinct lack of chrome striping along the body sides.  This is due simply to the fact that I wasn't confident enough to attempt them with MOLOTOW and I'm a firm believer in the maxim "if you can't do it well, don't try it!".  Cowardly I know but one slip would have ruined the model which I wasn't at all keen to do.  All the rest of the brightwork was achieved using MOLOTOW 1mm and 2mm pens.

 

I'm fully aware of both the model's and my shortcomings but am still moderately pleased with the result.  It was an interesting experiment but I think in future I'll stick to larger scale models.  Maybe... 

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It's not the prettiest car of the era, for me they got better looking around 1964. But your model does have a certain something.

I too love the colour, it really suits it. I don't mind the lack of chrome, call it a resto mod. 

Keep the Johan kits coming, if at all possible. 

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That looks good to me, I would definitely think that there's no reason on quality grounds not to do more in 1/24 or 1/25 scale.

 

As for the trim, you can get a decent straight edge for the trim if you mask along it and then cover with the Molotow Chrome (oddly enough, 2mm might be easier to get a good finish if you use the tape as the nib runs better along raised edges). And if you do go over slightly, you can remove it with a bit of IPA (that's IsoPropanyl Alcohol, not India Pale Ale).

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Thanks all for your kind words, I appreciate them and find them encouraging.

 

@Spiny, I'm always a bit nervous of using masking tape on a sprayed surface as I REALLY wouldn't want to lift it - at that stage there would be no going back and respraying, especially with a rattle can.  Is there a tape available that would minimise this risk?

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4 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:

 I don't mind the lack of chrome, call it a resto mod.

Actually I personally prefer the de-chromed look.  I was striving to stay faithful to the original but my preference is for a cleaner neater bodyshell.  Remember the Ford Corsair when it first came out?  Chrome trim-lines from front to rear right along the waistline.  However, when the 2000E came out they were gone and the end result was a huge improvement, much cleaner and softer body-lines.

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22 hours ago, Neddy said:

Thanks all for your kind words, I appreciate them and find them encouraging.

 

@Spiny, I'm always a bit nervous of using masking tape on a sprayed surface as I REALLY wouldn't want to lift it - at that stage there would be no going back and respraying, especially with a rattle can.  Is there a tape available that would minimise this risk?

I've used Tamiya and Revell tapes on gloss finishes without any issues (so far), just don't cover any decals with them as that's the layer which is likely to lift. It's also best to leave the masking tape on for the shortest time you can to give it least chance for the adhesive to really bond to the paint. So in a situation such as this, I'd probably be applying the masking tape, then straight away the Chrome, then remove the masking tape as close to one after the other as possible. Also, make sure you give the paint plenty of time to fully cure (I leave at least two weeks, preferably longer) and if you can mask when it's cooler that's even better (strength of adhesive again).

 

If you really want to test it, I would definitely recommend the plastic spoon method (apply your paints to the spoon to make sure there's no adverse reaction), then put some tape on there before your model.

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I love 1960s Mopar stuff so it's great to see this done.  If you hadn't mentioned about the red posts or the chrome side trim I'd never have noticed.

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Sorry for the thread necromancy but it's all @Spiny's fault.  His invaluable advice re. the use of masking tape got me thinking about being brave enough to try it and accordingly ordered some 3mm Tamiya masking tape as per his recommendation.  As you no doubt already know it's absolute magic - flexible, adheres well enough to prevent any bleed-under and certainly never lifted any of the existing surface finish.

 

To that end allow me to present the way the model looks now, properly dressed with all the OTT '60s American chromework the original was blessed with...

 

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On 6/30/2022 at 10:21 PM, Spiny said:

So in a situation such as this, I'd probably be applying the masking tape, then straight away the Chrome, then remove the masking tape as close to one after the other as possible.

I've found Molotow chrome runs and smudges if the tape is removed too quickly (the tape drags it on removal). Definitely let the chrome dry before removing the tape. I agree that once it's dry, the tape should come off quickly.

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I was concerned about that possibility and left each one about half an hour before attempting to lift the tape.  No problems experienced with either dragging or lifting, I'm extremely relieved to say!

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Pleased to have helped, you made a very good job of that.

 

2 hours ago, Chimpion said:

I've found Molotow chrome runs and smudges if the tape is removed too quickly (the tape drags it on removal). Definitely let the chrome dry before removing the tape. I agree that once it's dry, the tape should come off quickly.

 

You're absolutely correct, when I said to take the tape off as soon as possible I should have said to let the chrome dry (doesn't have to cure) first.

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On 29/06/2022 at 23:23, Neddy said:

Remember the Ford Corsair when it first came out? 

 

The second car I managed to spin through 360 degrees 🙂

 

The Plymouth looks much better with the chrome trim now, top marks for sticking with it. 

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On 7/8/2022 at 10:58 PM, Anteater said:

The second car I managed to spin through 360 degrees 

he first time I did that was in a Chrysler FWD tin box in the winter of 1985 in Toronto.

Hit a patch of black ice on the highway, had to brake. One front wheel locked, tried to compensate, the other locked. I fishtailed and then lost complete control, spun at least twice. Ended up on the hard shoulder at 90 degrees to the traffic!

I was in the third lane when this all kicked off. Never hit a thing. I was a bit more cautious after that!

 

Cheers,

Alan.

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