RF-101C Voodoo 1/48. +++ Finished +++

[Rob K.]

Hi,

 

Gave the Voodoo a coat of Tamiya fine grey primer. Was a little too enthusiastic and the primer pooled on the top fuselage which I had sanded earlier. The same occurred on the port side top intake section of the wing root. Have to go back there anyway, since it revealed a significant step which will have to be filled and sanded. The starboard side intake looks much better. Will leave it to rest for the primer to harden first.

 

 

The uneven primer surface on the port side:

 

Starboard side looks much better:

 

 

 

 

To be continued,

 

Rgds,

 Rob 

 

[RidgeRunner]

She's looking "Wonder"ful, Rob

[Rob K.]

5 hours ago, RidgeRunner said:

She's looking "Wonder"ful, Rob

Thank you @RidgeRunner. Difficult to get the top of the port side inlet looking ok though. Still not there.

 

Rgds

 

Rob

[Rob K.]

Hi,

 

Since my last post, I restored the panel lines and rivet detail.

 

I also polished the grey primer coat and airbrushed the model with Mr Color Ueno Black in preparation for the Aluminium coat. Haven’t quite made up my mind whether to use my usual choice of AK xtreme polished Aluminium or whether to try Mr Color Super Chrome Silver ( have not used the latter yet).

 

 

 

 

Restored the panel and rivet detail, especially around the intakes (where there are a lot).

 

 

Used the outline of a decal to cut a template from plastic card to scribe the in flight fuel receptacle cover which is not visible on the kit:

 

 

The result:

 

 

 

And filled and sanded the fuel tanks. Despite sanding with a sponge, the cylindrical shape has some unevenness in them. May leave it this way though. Still need to re-scribe the panel detail of the tanks:

 

 

That’s all, thanks for watching.

 

Comments, critique welcome as always.

 

Rgds,

 

 Rob 

[Geoffry M]

Scribing work is spot on!  Keep it up.

 

Geoff M

[Biggles87]

Seconded.

 

John

PS: I’m a big AK Extreme Metal fan, best metallic paint I’ve used so far.

[Rob K.]

13 hours ago, Geoffry M said:

Scribing work is spot on!  Keep it up.

 

Geoff M

Thank you Geoff. Hopefully it shows all ok with the metal coat as well.

 

13 hours ago, Biggles87 said:

Seconded.

 

John

PS: I’m a big AK Extreme Metal fan, best metallic paint I’ve used so far.

Hi John,

 

Thanks. Agree AK is good paint. I used it on my Sabre build below for the most part and liked the metal shade:

 

 

I find though that touch ups  with the polished Alu, often show a difference. The Mr Color Metallic appears to be a little more consistent upon testing. Also, the AK at times rubbed off a little around the edges through handling on previous builds and can re-activate after using one of my favourite clear coats mr Color GX. We’ll see what we decide upon. Couple of months ago someone used the Mr Color metallics 2 on a NMF build. Trying to find it, but so far unsuccessful.

 

Rgds,

 

 Rob 

 

 

 

[Mick_Gannon]

With regard to AK paints, when I contacted AK with regards to the base black colour, I was advised to use the AK base black for the extreme metal range not any black, the black you used does not look as smooth as the You Tube vid by Flory models when showing the use of extreme metal range.

What tools did you use to reapply the panel lines and rivets please.

 

Edited November 14, 2022 by Mick_Gannon

[Rob K.]

1 hour ago, Mick_Gannon said:

With regard to AK paints, when I contacted AK with regards to the base black colour, I was advised to use the AK base black for the extreme metal range not any black, the black you used does not look as smooth as the You Tube vid by Flory models when showing the use of extreme metal range.

What tools did you use to reapply the panel lines and rivets please.

 

Thanks Mick,

 

Makes good sense to use AK’s own black base coat I guess. Perhaps a good reason in this case to stick with the Mr Color products. Scribing was done mainly in the primer coat using automotive Xuniea tape as a guide around the curved parts and HIQ tape for the less curved and straight surfaces. Scribing with a JLC razor saw blade, the Trumpeter tool and an ordinary mechanical pencil with a cut off bead pin at the end for the use with templates. Rivets with the Rosie the riveter tool.

 

Rgds,

 

 Rob 

 

[Rob K.]

Hi,

 

Decided to stick with the Mr Color products and airbrushed the Voodoo with the super chrome silver 2. It airbrushes very nicely.

 

I am quite ok with the result. Little bit of orange peel, effect, but I blame that on the Tamiya rattle can fine primer which I failed to polish well enough in fear of loosing more rivet detail. Should have used mr Color surface primer with the airbrush prior to laying down the Ueno black coat.

 

The Mr Color super metallic coat feels very tough/hard and I don’t think it will come off easily. We’ll find out soon with masking.

 

 

To get some difference in metal shades, I airbrushed the chrome silver on a few loose parts like the flaps straight on top of the grey primer.

 

 

 

 

 

Still not sure which NMF scheme to go for. Apart from the kit decals, I have the Almark sheet, which allows me to choose Sun Run versions No2 and 3:

 

or go with the kit decals:

 

 

Although from what I gather, the Taiwanese one is a converted  101-A and has slightly longer burner cans which would eliminate that livery? (Since I shortened the kit exhausts)
 

Have no idea about the quality of either Kittyhawk or the Altmark decals.

 

Anyway, that’s all, thanks for watching.

 

Rgds,

 

 Rob 

 

[Biggles87]

Wow, that’s shiny!

[billn53]

Wow! Looking mighty fine!
 

For what it’s worth, I’m partial to the “Sun Run 4” markings, the yellow bands would be an attractive contrast to your shiny chrome finish.

[Rob K.]

Hi,

 

Airbrushed the nose tip and anti glare panel. Masked and painted the exhaust area with AK smoke metallic, but noticed it doesn’t take well to the super chrome silver from Mr Color. It remains tacky and still hasn’t dried well. 

 

Picked out a few panels with Mr Color fine silver without any problems.

 

Also had a look on the Mr hobby website and noticed that for the super chrome silver they recommend a water based gloss coat, in contrast to some of the other metallic shades which do take to their GX lacquer based clear coats. Guess Alclad aqua gloss will do as well. 
 

Anyway, here is the result. Still no decision on the final scheme.

 

 

 

That’s all, thanks for watching,

 

 Rgds 

 

Rob 

 

[Rob K.]

22 hours ago, billn53 said:

Wow! Looking mighty fine!
 

For what it’s worth, I’m partial to the “Sun Run 4” markings, the yellow bands would be an attractive contrast to your shiny chrome finish.

Thanks @billn53, I have seen a number of Sun Run voodoos due to their attractive schemes. That 60053 scheme is quit nice too from the kits decal sheet and will save me from airbrushing the yellow bands as everything is printed including the yellow fuselage banner. (and it has a great fin emblem) Thank you for your feedback though.

 

Rgds,

 

 Rob 

[mark.au]

Great work, just caught up on this build and it’s a beauty.  I like your solution to the camera positioning.

[F-32]

It’s looking great, really looking forward to seeing the finished build

[billn53]

2 hours ago, Rob K. said:

Thanks @billn53, I have seen a number of Sun Run voodoos due to their attractive schemes. That 60053 scheme is quit nice too from the kits decal sheet and will save me from airbrushing the yellow bands as everything is printed including the yellow fuselage banner. (and it has a great fin emblem) Thank you for your feedback though.

 

Rgds,

 

 Rob 

 

60053 was my close second choice (almost a toss-up) . . . and I agree about the fin emblem.

 

- Bill

[Biggles87]

60053  would be my choice also for what it’s worth. There were some really wonderful ‘101 schemes if you include the fighters.

 

John

[Rob K.]

'Hi, 

 

I thought I’d be making some quick progress, but at the moment the Voodoo is fighting me.

 

Planned to use the kits decal walkways, but they don’t match, since they take the shape of the unmodified intakes into account. So decided to airbrush them:

 

 

Whilst not unsuccessful and doubtful if the thin black borders would come out ok, I did made the mistake of choosing a too dark tone of grey:

 

 

Should have chosen a lighter colour grey, but am not going to change it. Hopefully during the weathering process, I can make it look less obvious.

 

Also thought I could make relatively quick progress using the kit decals with an attractive scheme as per below:

 

 

However, it turns out that the yellow fuselage band is too long and too wide and wouldn’t look right in my opinion:

 

 

I had some doubt if the yellow band was perhaps meant for the Sun Run version, however they don’t show the black border. Whilst the length can be addressed by trimming the decal, the width and general shape is another matter. 
 

The question is now if I should mask and airbrush  the yellow band ( which probably means I have to also do tail and wing tips). It would be feasible, but there is the added difficulty with the neat black borders containing the yellow.

 

Or I go back to the Sun Run versions, which would mean I would have to repaint the splitter plate back to NMF, but still apply the bands albeit without a black border.

 

I am contemplating of airbrushing all the yellow and black, but carefully cut out the red lightening symbol. Furthermore, I am wondering whether the 60053 is against a white background (as displayed on the decal sheet), or originally stencilled on a Aluminium background.

 

 

The yellow on this decal sheet is also a little on the pale side in my opinion.

 

Anyway, some decisions to be made once more.

 

That’s all, thanks for watching,

 

 Rgds,

 Rob 

 

 

 

 

[Biggles87]

Just when you think you’e winning something else comes along to bite you on the bum! Isn’t always the way.

I’m sure you’ll be able to sort it out.

 

John

[Rob K.]

Hi,

 

So initially I opted for the easy way out and used the decals from the kit for the tail and the fuselage band after all.
This turned out to be a waste of time as the decals were not conforming sufficiently to the fin and fuselage detail. Took out the whole arsenal of decal softeners, micro-sol, Mr hobby, Mig and Daco. Even had a go with Tamiya X-20 and levelling thinner, but they wouldn’t conform to my liking.

 

Therefore took the Scotch tape out of the kitchen drawer and removed them abruptly.

 

Then set out on a masking bonanza and made the lightning symbols and numbers with the Cricut Software and machine:

 

 

The fuselage band was masked using 10 mm Tamiya masking tape as a guide and the top fuselage curves were eyeballed in place using thin automotive Xuniea flexible masking tape:

 

 

 

 

 

Wingtips were also airbrushed instead of using the decals:

 

 

All the thin black stripes bordering the yellow on fuselage and wing tips were achieved by using very fine scalpel cut Tamiya tape using a metal ruler as a guide.

 

 

 

Below tail numbers were also airbrushed using Cricut cut masks.

 

 

After not having had the best experience with the Kittyhawk decals, I plan to use the USAF and national insignia markings from the leftover Tanmodel Thunderflash kit, which I know to be of good quality and similar size.

 

At the moment though and with the result as shown, no decals are on the Voodoo (yet).

 

Just some very minor corrections to be done.

 

That’s all, thanks for watching,

 

 Rgds,

 

 Rob 

 

 

[IvanP]

Rob,

 

This is turning out just great. Many years ago, I´ve converted the Monogram kit to an RF-101C using the C&H resin set. It was a lot of work! But the model still sits proudly in my display cabinet.

 

The RF-101 is one of my favourite airplanes. Your model has inspired me to pick the Kitty Haw kit from my the stash anytime soon and build the Sun Run version. 

 

Cheers, Ivan 

[Rob K.]

3 hours ago, IvanP said:

Rob,

 

This is turning out just great. Many years ago, I´ve converted the Monogram kit to an RF-101C using the C&H resin set. It was a lot of work! But the model still sits proudly in my display cabinet.

 

The RF-101 is one of my favourite airplanes. Your model has inspired me to pick the Kitty Haw kit from my the stash anytime soon and build the Sun Run version. 

 

Cheers, Ivan 

Thanks Ivan,

 

I must say the Kittyhawk Voodoo is quite a nice kit overall. I have made extensive use of previous builds covered by @quangster and @Nikolay Polyakov. If you study their builds, you are prepared for a few modifications you may need to make to build a relatively accurate RF-101C or F-101A based on the Kittyhawk kit. I hope you will show your Voodoo build on the WIP forum eventually.

 

Also thanks to @Biggles87, @billn53, @F-32, @mark.au, @Geoffry M, @RidgeRunner, @Mick_Gannon  and anyone with a like or other for their comments, critique and feedback, which are always welcome. (and anyone else I forgot to mention so far)

 

Regards,

 

 Rob 

 

 

[Biggles87]

Great job on the markings Rob, nearly there now.

 

John. 🇺🇦

[Rob K.]

8 minutes ago, Biggles87 said:

Great job on the markings Rob, nearly there now.

 

John. 🇺🇦

Thanks John,

 

Hopefully I can wrap it up by weeks end.

 

Rgds,

 

 Rob