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M12 GMC "Fáfnir never sleeps..."


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Hi folks 🥳

 

Now that the M3/4 GB is finished, I would like to continue with my work here.
As you can read in the title, it's about the M12 GMC from Academy, which I finished building after a lot of work, but I couldn't paint it in time.

 

As usual, I had also planned a vignette, so I still have a long way to go.
Some of you already know my model from the GB, for all those interested I would like to present a few pictures with the most important milestones of the project.

In the coming months I will be painting figures, pouring water, creating decals and weathering the M12.


I would be happy if you join me in this process.

MD

 

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The figures were more expensive than the kit😁

 

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The wall to the engine compartment was revised

 

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The bogies have been reworked to show the weight

 

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The drive housing has been improved

 

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The air filters were redesigned and printed

 

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The spade was also redesigned and printed

 

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The details of the bogies have been improved

 

 

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The gun socket was improved...

 

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also the fuel filler caps

 

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The complete rear section was rebuilt...

 

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and provided with missing rivets and weld seams

 

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Missing details of the gun were attached

 

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The drive for the height adjustment was added

 

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The trackguards were ground thinner

 

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The front trackguards were rebuilt

 

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Adding new details to the hatches

 

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The gun support revised and made movable

 

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The ammunition rack newly created

 

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Missing weld seams and holes added

 

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Casting markings applied

 

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The protective shield improved

 

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The drive wheels modified...

 

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for new AFV Club tracks (here you can see the weight distribution well)

 

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new seats

 

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The complete new winch is a model in itself

 

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The finished model with some accessories is ready for the last steps before painting

 

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When I look at the pictures again, I realise why I didn't finish them completely 😁

 

See you!

Edited by THEscaleSHOW
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Truly a multimedia marvel. Etch, 3D printing, styrene rivets, all working together as one for ultimate realism. I suppose you will put slightly rusted wire cable, a tiny bit kinked, in your dainty handmade winch? The icing on the cake.

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You've put an incredible amount of detail into this build. It's simply brilliant but...........did you remember the four bolt heads on the rear of each VVSS unit? The ones which hold the return rollers on.

Nice work,

 

John.

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On 23/06/2022 at 01:33, Peter2 said:

Truly a multimedia marvel. Etch, 3D printing, styrene rivets, all working together as one for ultimate realism. I suppose you will put slightly rusted wire cable, a tiny bit kinked, in your dainty handmade winch? The icing on the cake.

Thank you for your comment!

Yes, you are right - the wire cable gets later a special treatment 😁

 

On 23/06/2022 at 15:19, Bullbasket said:

You've put an incredible amount of detail into this build. It's simply brilliant but...........did you remember the four bolt heads on the rear of each VVSS unit? The ones which hold the return rollers on.

Nice work,

 

John.

Hey John

 

I will add the screws, although the Academy Roller is not ok in terms of dimensions and offers only little space.

I had to hurry a little, otherwise I wouldn't have made it into the gallery 😅
If you notice anything else, I am very grateful for any information 👍

 

MD

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1 hour ago, THEscaleSHOW said:

Hey John

 

I will add the screws, although the Academy Roller is not ok in terms of dimensions and offers only little space.

I had to hurry a little, otherwise I wouldn't have made it into the gallery 😅
If you notice anything else, I am very grateful for any information 👍

 

MD

You're doing a brilliant job so far. This is a VVSS unit that I did for my 1/35th IDF M1. The units are from Dragon. I glued a small piece of 10thou card to cover the joint, and then glued on four bolt heads.

hwfIVLw.jpg?1

 

I don't know how it would work with the Academy items, but it shouldn't be too different.

Anyway, I hope that helps.

 

John.

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57 minutes ago, Bullbasket said:

You're doing a brilliant job so far. This is a VVSS unit that I did for my 1/35th IDF M1. The units are from Dragon. I glued a small piece of 10thou card to cover the joint, and then glued on four bolt heads.

hwfIVLw.jpg?1

 

I don't know how it would work with the Academy items, but it shouldn't be too different.

Anyway, I hope that helps.

 

John.

 

We had the same idea then 😁

The plastic card is already glued in, but the reason with me was a large gap between the parts.

This way I wanted to save myself the filler.

 

THX 👍

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Hi folks

 

Today a small update on the M12.
While the primer is drying, I continued building the vignette.
Additionally, the figures are making progress and are ready for painting.
Only minimal touch ups were necessary, besides Alpine I used new Tamiya Firgures.

Cheers!

 

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First steps to define the dimensions

 

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The joints are filled with fine filler

 

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Excess putty is wiped off with a sponge and lukewarm water

 

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After that I designed the bank and made a frame out of plastic card

 

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M12 and figures ready for priming

 

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Wire pins are used for better handling

 

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The new Tamiya figures are highly recommended and have nothing to do with the monsters of the 70s

 

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Left Tamiya, right Alpine

 

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Dust cover

 

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Done

 

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The fine primer from Tamiya diluted with Mr. LT is first class, even small details are not hidden

 

See you!

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 I agree with those other two chaps, the little winch thingy is a masterclass on fine detail all on its own, and now we get a bridge! (clue was in the title, lol) and some figures :thumbsup:

 

 The reworked 3 part FDA is another highlight for me, a new scratched bolt strip with precisely placed resin (Masterclub?) bolt heads, just looks damn good to me ;)

 

 Matt

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello folks

 

First of all, thank you for your comments- I really appreciate it 👍

 

Today another update on the GMC.
I have finished the base painting and prepared everything for the decals.
The bridge is also progressing, the figures are next.
I hope you like it so far.

MD

 

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I accentuate the contour with Tamiya Black-Green.

 

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Then I spray OD as the base colour. I use my own mix with Tan here, otherwise everything becomes too dark.
OD can have many different shades, but in contrast to the Vietnam OD, the WW2 colour is lighter.
In addition, the later clearcoat darkens the colour anyway.

 

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I highlight small details with a light olive, as these are not very visible in the later weathering.
Tools etc. are also painted.
I added a little CM for more volume to the corners and edges with Tamiya yellow-green.

 

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The fine details of the 3D printing are clearly visible here on the nuts and washers of the spade teeth.

 

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The riverbed and some details of the bridge.

 

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To unify all materials, I spray everything with black, the brickwork got its mortar colour.

 

See you!

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On 22/06/2022 at 12:53, THEscaleSHOW said:

Hi folks 🥳

 

Now that the M3/4 GB is finished, I would like to continue with my work here.
As you can read in the title, it's about the M12 GMC from Academy, which I finished building after a lot of work, but I couldn't paint it in time.

 

As usual, I had also planned a vignette, so I still have a long way to go.
Some of you already know my model from the GB, for all those interested I would like to present a few pictures with the most important milestones of the project.

In the coming months I will be painting figures, pouring water, creating decals and weathering the M12.


I would be happy if you join me in this process.

MD

 

spacer.png

The figures were more expensive than the kit😁

 

spacer.png

The wall to the engine compartment was revised

 

spacer.png

The bogies have been reworked to show the weight

 

spacer.png

The drive housing has been improved

 

spacer.png

The air filters were redesigned and printed

 

spacer.png

The spade was also redesigned and printed

 

spacer.png

The details of the bogies have been improved

 

 

spacer.png

The gun socket was improved...

 

spacer.png

also the fuel filler caps

 

spacer.png

The complete rear section was rebuilt...

 

spacer.png

and provided with missing rivets and weld seams

 

spacer.png

Missing details of the gun were attached

 

spacer.png

The drive for the height adjustment was added

 

spacer.png

The trackguards were ground thinner

 

spacer.png

The front trackguards were rebuilt

 

spacer.png

Adding new details to the hatches

 

spacer.png

The gun support revised and made movable

 

spacer.png

The ammunition rack newly created

 

spacer.png

Missing weld seams and holes added

 

spacer.png

Casting markings applied

 

spacer.png

The protective shield improved

 

spacer.png

The drive wheels modified...

 

spacer.png

for new AFV Club tracks (here you can see the weight distribution well)

 

spacer.png

new seats

 

spacer.png

The complete new winch is a model in itself

 

spacer.png

The finished model with some accessories is ready for the last steps before painting

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

When I look at the pictures again, I realise why I didn't finish them completely 😁

 

See you!

I've got the same kit in the stash amd after seeing people get a razor saw and cut the kit right down the middle and widen it it's just going to stay there haha! There's a build on Google or track link I was reading n following apparently it's way to narrow and needs to be widened haha not for me for this old kit it would be nice to have some them 3D printed parts available for it maybe re design the breach detail and gun mount got the spare asuka boggies you get in their kits in the box I know there inaccurate also should be the early type with top roller if remember right? 

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On 09/07/2022 at 23:50, Modeler8522 said:

I've got the same kit in the stash amd after seeing people get a razor saw and cut the kit right down the middle and widen it it's just going to stay there haha! There's a build on Google or track link I was reading n following apparently it's way to narrow and needs to be widened haha not for me for this old kit it would be nice to have some them 3D printed parts available for it maybe re design the breach detail and gun mount got the spare asuka boggies you get in their kits in the box I know there inaccurate also should be the early type with top roller if remember right? 

 

I also know this report, but because of 1-2mm to saw through the model in the middle was not worth it to me.
For me, it is important to improve poorly reproduced or highly simplified parts of the kit, which can also be seen at first glance.
It is not important for me to count every rivet.
My work on the winch is a good example of turning the "toy look" into a realistic look.
For me, it's always the overall impression that counts and the effort must always be in proportion to the desired result.
I also build interiors only when you can see something. This has nothing to do with laziness, but I prefer to use the time for other things.
The spade on the model is simply not usable and had to be improved as a clearly visible part. Alternatively to the plastic card I used my printer for this, for the rest of the small stuff the printer is not worth it (more cleaning than printing).
The bogies in the kit are usable, in my opinion they are correct.
Ok, here and there a few screws supplemented, but that has been no effort.


If you decide to build your M12 and you need the spade, write me a mail.

I can send you the file to print.

 

MD

 

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1 hour ago, THEscaleSHOW said:

For me, it is important to improve poorly reproduced or highly simplified parts of the kit, which can also be seen at first glance.
It is not important for me to count every rivet.

 

My philosophy as well. It is always a challenge finding the sweet spot between too much and too little but when you do everything just seems to fall into place and it looks just right.

 

I have only made very simple stands for some of my builds but the more I see well done builds such as your bridge the more I am encouraged to expand my thinking.

 

Well done.

 

cheers, Graham

 

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Hello folks

 

Today again a small update on the progress of the construction.

First of all I can say that the Academy decals are junk, their edges are still visible even between 2 layers of clear coat and fine sanding.
This is deadly for the later weathering, where every detail becomes visible, for a realistic look.
I also hate silvering, so Archer decals or spraying myself are my first choice.
Unfortunately not all manufacturers have their decals printed by Cartograf...

 

Ok, with the base painting of the figures I have also started.

Many and also I use the black and white technique for the first pre-shading, but in this case I do without it.
If you apply the colors highly diluted on a light primer (a thin layer vertically from above and several thin layers vertically from below) you also get a nice contrast in the form of layers with only one color tone.
Of course, the main work is done with brush and acrylic, but a roadmap is already there.

 

MD

 

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Panzer putty for the flesh areas.

 

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Later, you can control the effect of light and shadow well with the targeted application of filters in the appropriate color.
Here you can use enamel / oil paints or acrylic.
A light satin clear coat for protection before painting is recommended.

 

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The wrinkles are clearly visible.

 

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The application of the Archer decals.

 

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The star in front is from HGW, is very good and just like Archer rimless.

 

See you!

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello folks

 

A quick and small update on the M12.

I have taken care of the painting and weathering of the bridge in the last few days and after 3 attempts with different colors I am now very happy with the result.

To imitate nature is from my point of view much more difficult than painting a tank.

After countless templates from the www, I decided to reproduce a small village bridge from the Eifel, a German landscape with mountains, forests and rivers.
There it always rains a lot and therefore it was obvious to study pictures of old weathered buildings.
Many beautiful examples offer English landscapes and their bridges, so I tried to adopt this look.
I can well imagine that such a bridge runs over a stream and leads to a farm-this is similar in the Eifel.
The bank and streambed will of course be detailed, I still have to collect some branches and roots.

 

MD

 

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With these colors I have done base painting

 

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The white calcium deposits are a nice detail

 

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As well as the moss spots

 

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These are the products I use

 

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I used different shades of gray for my stones.
For the entire painting I have avoided drybrushing, because this - if overdone - does not look realistic.

 

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I will paint the fine details later.

Hope you like it 🙂

 

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2 hours ago, THEscaleSHOW said:

To imitate nature is from my point of view much more difficult than painting a tank.

 

 Well you more than succeeded in that regard I think, and I have to agree with John, the bridge is a little mini work of art, looks incredibly realistic and I love the way you have shell damage revealing an old steel beam  :thumbsup:

 

 Matt

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