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Hasegawa F-86D USAF 1/72


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Hello all I’ve been working on several projects in the shed which have all come to completion around the same time. This one first. The kit is from the box and was a nice change from the short run style kits I usually make. Nice crisp parts that fit with the minimum of fuss.

The F86D first flew on the 22nd of Dec 1949 and North American delivered around 2500 before production ended. The USAF phased out the last F-86Ds in 1961 but allied countries continued to use them until the 1980s. The aircraft incorporated two notable new concepts in interceptor/fighter design, the removal of a second crewman in favour of a sophisticated electronic Fire Control System FCS (ah well, that’s progress for you!) and the use of air-to-air missiles instead of a gun. The ‘Mighty Mouse’ FFAR missiles (Folding Fin Aircraft Rockets) were contained in a retractable tray, shown lowered on my model.

 The aircraft depicted is from the 86th FIS based at Youngstown in Ohio around 1955, tasked with air defence of the Midwestern United States. It’s finished with Humbrol enamel aluminium 27002 and decorated using Wolfpack decals with stencelling from Hasegawa.  Minimal weathering was applied as in photos the aircraft looked very clean.

Hope you like it, here’s a few pics.

 

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Thanks for looking

Pete

 

 

 

 

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I like that a lot ! 
 

The Humbrol 27002 turned out very nice. I’m building a F-100D and want to represent a painted, silver lacquer aircraft vice natural metal. The Humbrol aluminum might just do the job. Any tips on using it?

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22 minutes ago, billn53 said:

The Humbrol 27002 turned out very nice. I’m building a F-100D and want to represent a painted, silver lacquer aircraft vice natural metal. The Humbrol aluminum might just do the job. Any tips on using it?

Thanks Bill

Make sure its stirred and mixed well in the tin, then thin to skimmed milk consistency and spray straight onto shiny clean plastic, building up the paint ( I do it this way), or a thin gloss undercoat. Leave overnight, it usually doesnt need a recoat. Decal and seal with varnish with as little handling as possible. (I wear neoprene gloves). It sounds a bit of a faf but it does come up quite well. Oh and it doesnt need polishing.

Cheers

Pete

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Classy like a 1955 Chevrolet.

Top build!

 

Just one note - the anti-glare panel is a bit too shiny, in my opinion. 

A touch of matt cote would enhance the surface effect.

 

Best greetings from Vienna!

Roman

 

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2 hours ago, Roman Schilhart said:

Just one note - the anti-glare panel is a bit too shiny, in my opinion. 

A touch of matt cote would enhance the surface effect.

Thanks Roman.

Agreed. The nose and anti glare panel were matt but went shiny when the xtra colour varnish  went on. Dare not mask as Id already ripped one of those green and white side decals😬.

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21 hours ago, Pete in a shed said:

Thanks Bill

Make sure its stirred and mixed well in the tin, then thin to skimmed milk consistency and spray straight onto shiny clean plastic, building up the paint ( I do it this way), or a thin gloss undercoat. Leave overnight, it usually doesnt need a recoat. Decal and seal with varnish with as little handling as possible. (I wear neoprene gloves). It sounds a bit of a faf but it does come up quite well. Oh and it doesnt need polishing.

Cheers

Pete

You didn’t mention buffing it, Pete. It certainly needs it, especially if you need to mask over it because if you don’t it will leave a mark. I love 27002 but I am trying to get away from it (and Humbrol enamels generally) on health grounds. I plan to try Vallejo metals as a trial :) based on Giorgio’s @Giorgio N experiences. 
 

Martin

 

adding Bill @billn53

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2 hours ago, RidgeRunner said:

You didn’t mention buffing it, Pete. It certainly needs it, especially if you need to mask over it because if you don’t it will leave a mark. I love 27002 but I am trying to get away from it (and Humbrol enamels generally) on health grounds. I plan to try Vallejo metals as a trial :) based on Giorgio’s @Giorgio N experiences. 
 

Hi Martin Thanks.

Thats a new one for me , I dont usually buff it, but I always rub the masking tape through my fingers when applying it to 27002 which definately reduces the risk of marking the paint.  I have also been toying with changing to acrylics for the same reason, think I'm a bit long in the tooth now though. Might still have a go as the metal acrllycs have come on in leaps and bounds, as proven by some of the amazing paint finishes seen on BM.

Pete

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On 12/06/2022 at 17:49, Bedders said:

Interesting choice of subject, and a lovely finish too.

Thanks Justin. The decal sheet from Wolfpack is called 'Hot n Cold' and has several out of the ordinary schemes, including an RF-51D from the Korean war. I shall definately do that at some point. I didnt realise Mustangs were still in use then.

 

RF-51D

F-86D,
F4U-4 Korean War
T-28B RLAF
RF-80B
P4Y-2 Korean
War Flareship

 

Pete

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Very nicely finished F86D.

Humbrol 27002 What thinner please.   I tried it a while back,brush painting, and wanted to polish it but found it just wouldn't polish.. I think it is designed to be polished

I have an email from Humbrol saying to leave it ten days to dry..

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47 minutes ago, twinpin said:

Very nicely finished F86D.

Humbrol 27002 What thinner please.   I tried it a while back,brush painting, and wanted to polish it but found it just wouldn't polish.. I think it is designed to be polished

Thanks very much.

I use white spirit, not the odour free stuff. The 27001/2/3 paints dont really brush. but when sprayed onto a shiny surface work really well. I have never polished it, in fact the least amount of handling the better. It does need at least 24 hrs to dry. the longer the better.

Pete

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Pete……..the workers at “The Shed” must be exhausted with all of the outstanding projects that they are producing.  Like I mentioned to you before, I need to visit “The Shed” to inspect just how over worked the employees are.  Nice looking Sabre Dog too. :like:

 

Mike

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