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AS 42 Sahariana - Italeri - 1/35


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Very nice work so far.

Not sure but I think that is not a tool but a machine gun mount for off vehicle deployment. Could be wrong though!

 

   Stay safe             Roger

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Hi Nenad

 

A good Tamiya Acrylics approx without any mix could be:

Light Gray-Green: XF-67
Dark Green (was not called dark gray-green); Tamiya XF-11
 

Note: that Dark Green was used only as overall color for tanks, while Light Gray-Green was for any other vehicle and other items, so for the Breda mount is better.

 

As with any other Italian Royal Army colour,, no sample official patches are available (while for Italian Air Forse they are instead, so matching is easier), so some difference in hue is acceptable.

 

BR

 

Massimo

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8 minutes ago, Massimo Novi said:

Hi Nenad

 

A good Tamiya Acrylics approx without any mix could be:

Light Gray-Green: XF-67
Dark Green (was not called dark gray-green); Tamiya XF-11
 

Note: that Dark Green was used only as overall color for tanks, while Light Gray-Green was for any other vehicle and other items, so for the Breda mount is better.

 

As with any other Italian Royal Army colour,, no sample official patches are available (while for Italian Air Forse they are instead, so matching is easier), so some difference in hue is acceptable.

 

BR

 

Massimo

 

Thank you @Massimo Novi. It looks like that 47mm AT gun was also painted some dark color, probably green. What would that be? Light Gray-Green or Dark Green? What about jerrycans?

 

Thanks!

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Hi Nenad

 

For both the two number plates of the Italeri kit (792B and 797B) the Breda 20mm frame is kaki sahariano and gunmetal weapon.

 

The 791B had a 47mm gun in light gray-green

 

For Jerricans, if marked R.E. then can be most kaki sahariano with some in light gray-green.

 

BR

 

Massimo

Edited by Massimo Novi
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Hi guys,

 

I managed to do some progress over the weekend.

 

MG is nicely molded, but I hate those pin marks on locations where it is hard to remove them.

 

IMG_20220623_131944

 

Also, barrel is not drilled, so I had to to id myself. Not perfectly happy with the result (it is a bit off center), but considering the size of this thing and the drill (0.4mm), I would say that it is acceptable.

 

IMG_20220623_132100

 

Having built only one wheeled vehicle so fare, I have almost no experience dealing with rubber tires. Do you guys know how to remove these awful seamlines and pin marks?

 

IMG_20220624_121602

 

Everything ready for priming:

 

IMG_20220624_121929

 

Threw in some additional stowage from Reality in Scale and Value Gears.

 

And everything primed. Had to use primer because of the PE and metal parts, white styrene, etc. Not sure if it is a god practice to paint rubber tires as well or leave the rubber as it is? I know that maybe it does not make sense, but this rubber this look a bit unrealistic to me :). Not sure why, maybe too glossy?

 

IMG_20220626_114628

 

Painted the wheels with Mr.Hobby Tire Black (my favorite rubber tire paint) and than painted the rims with Khaki Sahariana. I usually use Royal Model's PE painting mask for this. It works great with wheels on tanks, but not so good here. Wheels are not flat, so you the mask can't set perfectly. This caused some overspray. I would not bother about this, because wheels will be covered by dust and send and it will be hardly visible, but I would like to know some better technique to paint wheels like these. Any suggestions? Maybe liquid mask?

 

IMG_20220627_174432

 

Everything painted Khaki Sahariana:

 

IMG_20220627_174342

 

So I am back where I was 😂

 

I'll paint the guns and details next, and assemble everything.

 

Does anyone have any tutorial to recommend or point out some nice WiP thread here where I can learn how to weather the wheels/tires?

 

Best,

Nenad

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You could always paint the wheel rims separately to the tyres and put them  together after painting.

With regard to the tyre seams car modellers often mount the rubber type tyres on a mandrel and then onto a drill and use coarse rubbing down/sand paper on the tread areas which not only removes the seams but helps to distress the tread areas to show wear on these areas.

Great work on your Sahariana so far looking forward to the next update now.

 

        Stay safe           Roger

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1 minute ago, Hamden said:

 

You could always paint the wheel rims separately to the tyres and put them  together after painting.

With regard to the tyre seams car modellers often mount the rubber type tyres on a mandrel and then onto a drill and use coarse rubbing down/sand paper on the tread areas which not only removes the seams but helps to distress the tread areas to show wear on these areas.

Great work on your Sahariana so far looking forward to the next update now.

 

        Stay safe           Roger

Thank you Roger. That's what I did with my first vehicle, but when placing rims into the tires, the paint cracked and peeled off from the rubber.

Will try sanding the rubber next time.

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57 minutes ago, Nenad Ilijic said:

Thank you Roger. That's what I did with my first vehicle, but when placing rims into the tires, the paint cracked and peeled off from the rubber.

Will try sanding the rubber next time.

Roger's suggestion works well on rubber tyres. Some rubber is harder to sand than others though and does take a bit more effort. As to painting, put them on the rims first and mask.

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1 hour ago, Nenad Ilijic said:

Does anybody know what material was the canvas used on Italian WW2 vehicles? What would be the color of the canvas used to cover the roof, headlights, etc?

A light khaki tan (more or less Humbrol 72 but much lighter) or buff color.

 

BR

 

Massimo

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Not sure if this will apply to your tyres but I recall that, sometimes, vinyl tracks attack plastic parts unless the plastic is well coated with paint prior to fitting. Just a thought that might save grief later.....

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4 hours ago, Nenad Ilijic said:

Having built only one wheeled vehicle so fare, I have almost no experience dealing with rubber tires. Do you guys know how to remove these awful seamlines and pin marks?

 

Good question and something many struggle with. Personally I don't care for this sort of "rubber" tire on a model. All of the model car kits I built many years ago had them and on such a model they look OK but always left me a bit wanting something better. I didn't have a rotary tool at that time so I just took a bit of sandpaper to them to make them look weathered and worn when that was the effect I was after. There is no easy way to just simply remove any seam or pin marks and when doing so you sometimes remove more rubber material than you might like.  I think they look just too shiny on a model, especially one like this.

 

Check out how the car model builders handle these vinyl tires as someone already mentioned. Mounting on a mandrel used in a rotary tool works OK but is rough on the tire unless you want  a well worn and weathered effect.

 

The ultimate tool for removing that I have seen for removing the sheen from model tires is one of those airbrush style mini "sand blasters". Paasche makes one called the Air Eraser  https://www.paascheairbrush.com/AEC-K  A bit pricey but it has other uses too.  There are cheaper similar devices that can be found at Harbor Freight, eBay, Amazon, etc

 

You could always make a silicone rubber mold from one and cast as many resin parts as you needed. You could even go so far as to use one of the kits tires, add some weathering and wear and give it a weighted look ( like the tire is on a heavily loaded vehicle and the bottom of the tire would be a bit bulged and flattened ) and then use that as your master to make better tires for the kit. Simply sanding the bottom of the "rubber" tires flat would also give them a bit of that weighted look.

 

cheers, Graham

 

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6 hours ago, Nenad Ilijic said:

Having built only one wheeled vehicle so fare, I have almost no experience dealing with rubber tires. Do you guys know how to remove these awful seamlines and pin marks?

You can try putting the tires in the freezer, and after that, while the vinyl is cold, sand it with sandpaper. Vinyl hardens when cold, but it depends on the chemical composition - different manufacturers use different materials.

 

Vytautas

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11 hours ago, ColonelKrypton said:

The ultimate tool for removing that I have seen for removing the sheen from model tires is one of those airbrush style mini "sand blasters". Paasche makes one called the Air Eraser  https://www.paascheairbrush.com/AEC-K  A bit pricey but it has other uses too.  There are cheaper similar devices that can be found at Harbor Freight, eBay, Amazon, etc

 

Doug Whyte, a master model car maker, has an interesting video on his YouTube channel  https://youtu.be/MdpxSNpP_3Q

 

 

cheers, Graham

 

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Thank you guys, very helpful advice. 

 

Painted the gun and other elements that should be green. Hope this color makes sense as Grigio-Verde Chiaro:

 

IMG_20220628_155711

 

And painted all the jerrycans. Used 4 different colors: Grigio-Verde Scuro, Giallo Sabbia Scuro, Khaki Sahariana and few German versions in RAL 7021.

 

@Massimo Novi does this make sense as canvas color?

 

IMG_20220628_160036

 

It is a bit darker in reality though.

 

Cheers,

Nenad

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3 hours ago, Nenad Ilijic said:

Painted the gun and other elements that should be green. Hope this color makes sense as Grigio-Verde Chiaro:

 

And painted all the jerrycans. Used 4 different colors: Grigio-Verde Scuro, Giallo Sabbia Scuro, Khaki Sahariana and few German versions in RAL 7021.

 

@Massimo Novi does this make sense as canvas color?

 

It is a bit darker in reality though.

 

Hi Nenad

 

Canvas is ok for me, can be slightly weathered for a more tissue appearance. Straps should be slightly lighter that canvas.

 

Jerricans are good,

 

Consider that the operation lifespan of these AS 42 vehicles was not too long so I would avoid any extreme weathering..

 

BR

 

Massimo

Edited by Massimo Novi
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This does look interesting. It looks bigger than most tanks at the time, either that or the crew in the photos are very small :)

Good luck with the tyres, it is annoying when a manufacturer includes them as a selling point "includes rubber tyres!!" when we all know that plastic ones would be so much better.

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Hello everyone,

 

This post will be a bit longer :)

 

Did some chipping on the vehicle. Tried to keep the model just slightly weathered and only in the areas where scratches are commonly present according to photos, which is mainly front and back of the vehicle. I usually use hairspray technique and I find it easier to control, especially with lacquers. However, this time, I didn't use any base paint underneath Khaki Sahariana, so I had to use sponge technique with a 50;50 mix of Tamiya Dark Iron and Flat Brown.

 

IMG_20220630_093324

 

IMG_20220630_093338

 

And subassemblies:

 

IMG_20220630_093934

 

Dry brushed the 47mm gun with the Mr.Metal Color Iron paint. When buffed, it looks like gunmetal seeing through the green paint. I was not able to capture it on photo though.

 

IMG_20220630_094409

 

And here's the Breda MG. Used Mr.Metal Color Iron to paint it, than buffed with the cotton swab and silicon brush.

 

IMG_20220630_094119

 

Maybe it turned out a bit too blue... not sure.

 

And here's MG mount and exhaust. Exhaust was a bit of a disappointment. It's two part that does not fit very well and require a lot of cleanup. Also, details are not crisp for some reason. It's painted Mr.Color Burnt Metal, dark and light rust paint was applied with a sponge and on top of that some Khaki Sahariana as well. Then, I added some Truck Rust and Light Rust pigments.

 

IMG_20220630_094558

 

Some chipping being applied to the jerrycans as well. Those containing water are marked with white Xs. Also, those containing machine oil were marked with black Xs. All other are fuel. Usual setup was that there were 20 fuel jerrycans on the sides, and 4 water jerrycans at the front. However, more were usually carried inside.

 

IMG_20220630_094812

 

Now wheels... these are bothering me the most :)

 

I wanted to add some dust and send to them before attaching them, because it will be much easier that way. I have no idea if this is a good approach, but what I did is I mixed some pigments with enamel thinner and applied it to the wheels. I used two types of pigments, MIG's North Africa which is a bit lighter and VMS intensive desert pigment which is quite yellow.

 

 

IMG_20220703_154304

 

Not sure why, but VMS does not want to mix at all with the thinner 😕

 

And here's the pigment applied:

 

 

IMG_20220703_155101

 

When completely dry (I left it for a day) I wiped out the excess with the powder sponge (the one used for makeup - don't tell my wife were are her sponges :D) 

 

 

img_20220705_161036

 

Not supper happy with them, but it will work for the first try.

 

Tools and stowage boxes painted:

 

img_20220705_161118

 

Metal is not that dark in reality as it turned out on the photos. I applied MIG's wood wash on the boxes and tools, and also applied some dark wash on the canvas. I usually apply a lot of it and then wipe out the excess with a tissue after half an hour or so. I would be much happier if tool clamps were in PE, it adds a lot of detail to the model in my opinion. I was thinking of removing the clamps and adding the scratched PE clamps, but I decided not to do it at the end, because I was not sure that tools would survive the process. 

 

Decals were not bad... except the flag for the engine deck. I have no idea how to apply this?!? Used a lot of Micro Sol and Micro Set and no way. It gets too deformed to be acceptable.

 

IMG_20220704_175913

 

At the end, I decided to paint it instead.

 

img_20220705_161224

 

It turned out a bit dark, but it will be very dusty, so it doesn't matter. Also, some pin wash applied. I found out this https://www.amazon.com/AK-Interactive-Desert-Camouflage-Panliner/dp/B07YLDSPCR and I like it a lot. It's perfect for desert coloured vehicles.

 

img_20220705_161258

 

Most of the subassemblies attached. 

 

img_20220708_111323

 

At this point I sprayed everything with MIG's AMIG1404 North Africa Dust. I left the wheels to be attached after that, because they are already dusty. 

And at the end, I only added some pigments inside (a lot of them) and rubbed pigments here and there to create a variety.

 

img_20220708_203058

 

Maybe I'll make some minor changes before final photo shooting for the RFI, but basically, I'll call it done.

 

Cheers,

Nenad

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Looks great just the right amount of wear (IMHO) are you going to make a base for this one?

 

         Stay safe           Roger

 

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19 minutes ago, Nenad Ilijic said:

At the end, I decided to paint it instead.

Good decision Nenad. It works better than a decal in this position. You've certainly got it nailed when it comes to weathering and chipping. The result is excellent. Nice work.

 

John.

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