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Simple Wheel well/General Purpose washa


Vapouriser

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So I was listening to one of my favourite Podcasts and they mentioned a little tip

they all swore by. Originally recommended by Spencer Pollard, it’s a quick and simple one, and from my brief experience, reasonably effective.


The mixture is not precise and can be adapted subject to tint/individual preference but in essence - a couple of drops of Tamiya XF1 or similar flat black, 

a squirt of future and a few drops of distilled water - that’s it !

The future self levels the finish and I have found it great for applying to wheel wells and hard to reach areas that would just get grimey !! 

 

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On 28/05/2022 at 11:04, Vapouriser said:

So I was listening to one of my favourite Podcasts and they mentioned a little tip

they all swore by. Originally recommended by Spencer Pollard, it’s a quick and simple one, and from my brief experience, reasonably effective.


The mixture is not precise and can be adapted subject to tint/individual preference but in essence - a couple of drops of Tamiya XF1 or similar flat black, 

a squirt of future and a few drops of distilled water - that’s it !

The future self levels the finish and I have found it great for applying to wheel wells and hard to reach areas that would just get grimey !! 

 

possibly from Roy Sutherland originally. 

http://barracudacals.blogspot.com/2015/12/how-to-paint-resin-seat-with-molded-in.html

 

"This is where the seat starts coming to life. To really pop out the detail and bring the belts to life, a wash is now applied using my patented ,exclusive, super secret, never-before-seen-on-TV Future Wash.  This is the best was I've ever used on detail areas. It works wonders in gearbays and cockpits and wheel hubs and the like. Its not good for external panel washes, though.

 

Mix 1 part Future floor wax (now called Pledge Floor Care and by other brand names such as Johnson's Klear overseas.) with 1 part water. Add a small amount of Acrylic black paint (I use Vallejo) and stir to make a very pale wash. Try it on some test pieces. Flood the area with the wash and watch it collect in corners, creating subtle gradated shadows when it dries. The advantage is that the pigment never breaks up like enamel washes do. Experiment with the concentration til you find what works for you. If its too subtle. Go back and apply a second coat once the first has dried."

 

Does work well, though can be a little glossy.   

 

I'm a big fan of artist oil paint washes using lighter fuel,  make very very thin seeking washes, and dries really fast.   Black is usually too stark, burnt umber and little black.  Add white for a dirty grey.  

 

I'm going to PM you re local model clubs, which might be of interest.

 

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39 minutes ago, Troy Smith said:

 

Roy says he didn't invent it, but he was the first I heard using it. I've also used other colours of paint to produce a different effect

Edited by Dave Fleming
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This is (and it seems from the blogpost) applied after a gloss coating right? It's not a case of the future component magically allowing it to be washed over bare matt paint without any ill effects? If that's the case, what differentiates this from any other wash?

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4 minutes ago, Ngantek said:

If that's the case, what differentiates this from any other wash?

 

1 hour ago, Troy Smith said:

The advantage is that the pigment never breaks up like enamel washes do.

 

As with everything,  there are various techniques, and variations of them, which are worth knowing about, and experimenting with, to find out what works for you.  Washes vary due to the solvents and pigments used.

 

It's what works for you is the important thing.

Hence my sig line.  

cheers

T

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1 hour ago, Ngantek said:

This is (and it seems from the blogpost) applied after a gloss coating right? It's not a case of the future component magically allowing it to be washed over bare matt paint without any ill effects? If that's the case, what differentiates this from any other wash?


I am a effectively a new/green returnee to the hobby and on hearing about this (and subsequently trialling it) I thought it was worth sharing for anyone like me who wasn’t familiar. I have actually used it on surfaces that I haven’t gloss coated first as the future self levels nicely once dry and leaves a nice neat finish to my eye, making it quite different to my (albeit very limited) experience with oil washing. But my standards will be very much lower I’m sure than a lot of the experienced members here of course. 

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It feels a lot like a homemade contrast paint recipe.It is one of the ways how one can reproduce effects of paints like those: https://www.thearmypainter.com/speedpaint/

 

The main difference from traditional washes is that those paints let pigment to flow and pile up better into the recesses by utilizing the property of the medium while keeping a thin layer of the paint over the rest. It gives good shading effect very quickly.

 

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