1:48 Tamiya F4U-1D

[81-er]

Those really are effective, I'll have to investigate some myself

 

James

[shortCummins]

11 hours ago, AdrianMF said:

The transfers are looking great - don't forget to distress them a bit!

 

Regards,

Adrian

thanks Adrian

 

I'd thought about distressing the aircraft numbers, mainly around the bolts/screws that hold the panel in place as I can imagine a slipped screwdriver dinking the paintwork?, and also I'm going to try and "wear" some of the kill marks, my thinking is that both the pilot and ground crew would lean against them whilst "working" on the cockpit.

I'm not sure "how" I'm going to achieve these results but I'll apply some of the "spare" decals to a paint mule and see how I can "damage" them in a realistic way without totally messing them up.

 

7 hours ago, 81-er said:

Those really are effective, I'll have to investigate some myself

 

James

thanks James

 

the range of wet transfers is quite limited (in 1:48), Bf-109, F4U Corsair Stencils (the set I'm using), Hurricane Stencils,  F-14A Tomcat Stencils, Ki-61-Id Camouflage 2nd Lieutenant Shunzo Takashima (these look very interesting), TEMPEST Mk.V Stencils and national insignia roundels, Fw-190A, F6F-3 Hellcat - Stencils, Spitfire Mk.IXC/Mk.IXE - Markings + Stencils (this is the most expensive set at over £41 however the package contents: -14x Markings -3x Stencils) 

the stencil sets are £5 or £6 and the "insignia" sets range from £15 - £25 - £41 so their not stupidly expensive when compared to aftermarket "normal" decals, hopefully if enough  of us buy them then HGW will extend the range?

my wish would be for insignia sets, RAF roundels, stars and bars etc. that could be used instead of decals or Montex masks, when everyone sees the results I'm sure they'd sell a ton of them!

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

[AdrianMF]

5 hours ago, shortCummins said:

I can "damage" them in a realistic way

I have always found it very hard to paint on random looking scratches! The best (least bad) result I ever got was with a chunk of torn sponge with most of the paint wiped off. Looking forward to seeing your experiments!

 

 Regards,

Adrian

[Biggles87]

I used a worn Scotchbrite pad to scrub off some of the national insignia on the gun panels of a well worn Korean F-51 recently, but if you’ve already put a coat of varnish on them it’s probably too late.

 

John. 🇺🇦

[shortCummins]

5 hours ago, AdrianMF said:

I have always found it very hard to paint on random looking scratches! The best (least bad) result I ever got was with a chunk of torn sponge with most of the paint wiped off. Looking forward to seeing your experiments!

 

 Regards,

Adrian

thanks Adrian

 

for the aircraft numbers I'm going to "chip" the paintwork around the fastenings, I think that is a "reasonable" thing?, the flag kill marks are a little more tricky, I want some of them to look "worn", I'm going to try very high grit sandpaper, the trick will be not to make the wear too uniform, after all the flags would have been added over a period of time as the kills increased.

 

2 hours ago, Biggles87 said:

I used a worn Scotchbrite pad to scrub off some of the national insignia on the gun panels of a well worn Korean F-51 recently, but if you’ve already put a coat of varnish on them it’s probably too late.

 

John. 🇺🇦

thanks John

 

I'll get that a go, the mixture of wear and scratches that a Scotchbrite pad would give could be just the effect I'm after.

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

[shortCummins]

 

The HGW transfers were “protected” with a coat of Alclad Klear Kote flat.

 

Following Adrian and John’s advice I added some chipping to the aircraft numbers around the fastenings…

 

 

Scratches were also added to the fuselage insignia…

 

…and also to the gun panels.

 

 

A mix of Tamiya XF-27 black green and XF-64 red brown, thinned 90% with Mr Rapid thinner was built up slowly for the base of the exhaust stains…

 

the exhaust stains will be enhanced with oils.

 

 

Next I’ll be “distressing” the kill marks and starting on the weathering using oils.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

[bigbadbadge]

Looks flippin awesome John  those decals do look good too. Cracking job. 

Chris

[shortCummins]

20 hours ago, bigbadbadge said:

Looks flippin awesome John  those decals do look good too. Cracking job. 

Chris

thanks Chris

 

I'm still not a fan of decals but these wet transfers are a step above, they're still applied in the same way and then you have to wait a while, 6-8 hours, before removing the carrier film, then you're left with "painted on" representations.

this set didn't have any stars and bars, which is a shame, but if HGW ever decide to make insignia sets then I'd use them every chance I could.

 

rgds

John(shortCummins) 

[shortCummins]

 

I distressed the “kill flags” by gently rubbing them with a 2400 grit sanding stick.

 

It’s given me, more or less, the effect I was after, some of the flags look as if they’ve been rubbed off, I think that if I try and push the effect further I stand a reasonable chance of completely messing them up!

 

I’ll be using a number of 502 Abteilung oils for the weathering process:

      ABT002 sepia

      ABT005 smoke

      ABT006 burnt umber

      ABT020 faded dark yellow

      ABT165 faded white

      ABT240 cream brown

      ABT510 starship filth

 

The exhaust stain was added to with sepia, smoke and cream brown…

 

Faded dark yellow for oil stains.

 

Smoke and starship filth for gun and ejection stains.

 

 

 

 

Next I’ll be continuing with the oil paint weathering.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

[corsaircorp]

Great Corsair John !!

Impressive weathering !!

I'm impressed !!

CC

[AdrianMF]

Smashing. The decal bothering is spot on, just enough, not too much. The staining is looking good too.

 

Looking forward to seeing this over the line. Hope you have a nice “scratchy sand” base to show if off!

 

Regards,

Adrian

[81-er]

That's absolute fantastic work on the staining, John. Not that the rest isn't, every update on this one ramps up the quality even further. Picking up lots of ideas as well.

 

James

[Biggles87]

Great work on the’ understaines ‘ John.

I love the name starship filth.

 

John. 🇺🇦
 

[Dunny]

John,

 

Looking lovely - I think weathering the decals was a good call. Look forward to seeing the weathering progress!

 

Cheers,

 

Roger

[shortCummins]

2 hours ago, Biggles87 said:

Great work on the’ understaines ‘ John.

I love the name starship filth.

 

John. 🇺🇦
 

thanks John

 

starship filth is one of my favourite oils, its a black/green/brown colour (if you can imagine that) very much a "filth" colour and far more subtile than just a "black" and I agree its a great name!

 

1 hour ago, Dunny said:

John,

 

Looking lovely - I think weathering the decals was a good call. Look forward to seeing the weathering progress!

 

Cheers,

 

Roger

thanks Roger

 

I think that weathering is my favourite part of modelling, I often "go over the top", its difficult to know when to stop, my excuse and I'm sticking to it!, I realise that it's not to everyones taste but that's one of the things I like about this hobby, diversity 

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

[shortCummins]

 

MRP-122 marking yellow highly thinned 99% Mr Rapid thinner 1% paint was used to overspray the fuel stain to give a greenish hue, the “lid” was masked with some liquid mask.

 

 

502 Abteilung ABT005 smoke was used for the machine gun stains…

 

…unfortunately they don’t show up too much on the dark blue.

 

ABT006 burnt umber was used along the gun panels

[

 

 

ABT510 starship filth was used to make the cowling panel lines grubby.

 

[

 

ABT240 cream brown was used for some fluid leaks from the cowl flaps.

 

 

 

 

The leading wing edges, top of the fuselage and cowl were given a coat of odourless thinner and some ABT165 faded white dotted and stippled…

 

 

 

…this was left “to dry” for 20 minutes or so and the blended with a dry brush

 

 

 

Next I’ll be working on the undercarriage.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

Edited July 15, 2022 by shortCummins

[Biggles87]

Beginning to look like she was rescued from the fire dump. ( In a good way. )

 

Stay cool. 

 

John. 🇺🇦

[shortCummins]

 

While I had the Xtreme metal paints out I gave the exhausts, which had previously been painted with vallejo 70.814 burnt red, a coat of Xtreme Metal AK484 burnt metal.

 

 

Before I started this build I decided to opt for some after-market wheels, the set I decided on were the Brengun BRL48117 resin set.

 

After a coat of Stynylrez black primer the wheel hubs were given a coat of AK488 matt aluminium.

 

 

 

The hubs were then masked, the Montex mask set supplied them, and the tyres were given a “base” of MRP-077 NATO black followed by MRP-205 eggplant dark grey…

 

…the tyre tread was dry-brushed with Tamiya XF-82 ocean grey.

 

 

 

Next I’ll be continuing with the landing gear.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

[shortCummins]

 

The landing gear subassemblies were nailed together and I twisted some wire to represent a spring.

 

I cut the “spring” to size and fixed it to the legs.

 

There was also missing brake cables that I created with some wire.

After adding some Tamiya brown panel liner and then drilling a hole the wire was threaded through and glued in place, once the glue had dried the wire was bent into shape.

 

 

The outer hubs were fitted in place and Tamiya black panel liner used to accentuate the detail.

 

The tail wheel was joined to the hook assembly.

 

 

 

Before adding wheels to the landing gear, to ensure the correct alignment of the weighted tyres the landing gear sub-assemblies need to be fitted to the aircraft, I'll be doing that next.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

[Pete in Lincs]

Nice one, John. Lovely work in the grubbiness and wear department. I like to use some old almost smooth micromesh on paint and decals.

It just takes the top off raised bits and flats out the decals. Oh, and use spit, not water. More lubrication, see. Cheers, Pete

[shortCummins]

13 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:

Nice one, John. Lovely work in the grubbiness and wear department. I like to use some old almost smooth micromesh on paint and decals.

It just takes the top off raised bits and flats out the decals. Oh, and use spit, not water. More lubrication, see. Cheers, Pete

thanks Pete

 

that sound like a good tip about the micro mesh, not so sure about gobbing over my model 🤣, its not that bad

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

[shortCummins]

 

Before fitting the landing gear I added some “dust” to the wheel wells…

 

Two washes, light dirt and sand, were used to make the “dust” from UMP clay based washes, I imagine that their the same a “Florey” washes?, a small(ish) amount was poured into a measuring cup and allowed to dehydrate, once the water had evaporated, days later, I was left with the coloured clay which was then ground to make a powder and applied with a brush.

 

The tail wheel/arrester hook was attached first to give me the correct angle to position the main wheels.

 

Next I pressed the landing gear into the airframe, I then used Loctite super glue power gel to fix the resin wheels. This gel has a slightly longer drying time and allowed me to position the wheels as required.

 

 

I fixed the front covers to the landing gear, added some “dust” and then glued them in place.

 

 

Then the rest of the gear covers were added…

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next I’ll be sorting out the gun-site and canopy.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

[Sergeant]

On 6/1/2022 at 6:12 AM, shortCummins said:

 

A base colour Xtreme metal AK 476 steel was applied to the complete engine.

 

 

“Normally” I would have used an aluminium colour but this time I wanted a darker metal colour.

 

The gearbox cover was then brush painted with Akan FS:35237 medium grey/blue.

 

Ignition wires  were painted with a mix of Tamiya XF-64 red brown (40%) and X-6 orange (60%).

 

Vallejo 70.995 German grey was used to pick out the magneto and placard.

 

 

Tamiya dark brown panel liner was used to highlight the cylinders and to grubby up the engine a wee bit.

 

AK aircraft engine oil was used to “streak” the gearbox.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next I’ll be messing with the cowl ring.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

John @shortCummins I'm preparing to paint the engines on my PBY-5 Catalina and would like them to look like your Corsair engines. I have Eduard PE for the cylinder head lines, but they are flat and I think small gauge copper wire might like more realistic. What do you think?

 

Harold

 

Edited July 17, 2022 by Sergeant

[shortCummins]

15 minutes ago, Sergeant said:

@shortCummins I'm preparing to paint the engines on my PBY-5 Catalina and would like them to look like yours. I have Eduard PE for the cylinder head lines, but they are flat and I think small gauge copper wire might like more realistic.

 

Harold

 

Hi Harold

 

personally I think that thin wire is better, because it's "round", having said that the Eduard PE has all of the wires "in one place", you'll still need to bend them to fit the engine but its far easier than cutting all the wire needed, also remember you'll need two sizes and if you're anything like me the chances of mixing them up is very easy, so remember to make "spares".

 

I have used Eduard wiring PE previously, and was very happy with the result, I started using wire for two reasons, its cheap and also I there isn't always a PE set available.

 

You'll also note that I paint my wires "dark orange", I see from your reference they should be black/dark grey, the colour I use is "artistic licence" on my part, after all, I've put effort into making the engine "better" so I want people to notice it, to be fair only modellers do notice and they'd probably notice whatever the colour?

 

I've been following your PBY build, very impressed, and I'm looking forward to seeing what you do next.

 

best rgds

John(shortCummins)

[Sergeant]

1 hour ago, shortCummins said:

Hi Harold

 

personally I think that thin wire is better, because it's "round", having said that the Eduard PE has all of the wires "in one place", you'll still need to bend them to fit the engine but its far easier than cutting all the wire needed, also remember you'll need two sizes and if you're anything like me the chances of mixing them up is very easy, so remember to make "spares".

 

I have used Eduard wiring PE previously, and was very happy with the result, I started using wire for two reasons, its cheap and also I there isn't always a PE set available.

 

You'll also note that I paint my wires "dark orange", I see from your reference they should be black/dark grey, the colour I use is "artistic licence" on my part, after all, I've put effort into making the engine "better" so I want people to notice it, to be fair only modellers do notice and they'd probably notice whatever the colour?

 

I've been following your PBY build, very impressed, and I'm looking forward to seeing what you do next.

 

best rgds

John(shortCummins)

Thank you, John. I agree with you regarding artistic license. I am amazed with your weathering skill on the Corsair. I just started to get a handle on camouflage painting; however, weathering like you're doing in my opinion is a higher level of what I like to think of as impressionism.

 

Normally we associate the term impressionism with artistic license in paintings from the 19th-century, sun light in its changing qualities (often accentuating the effects of the passage of time). However, the creation of realistic looking weathered and worn surfaces is both the science of reflected light and impressionism art form requiring a different skill set from normal painting.

 

Harold

Edited July 17, 2022 by Sergeant