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1:48 Tamiya F4U-1D


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Having finish my “naked” Hurricane which had a very “clean” finish (zero weathering), I’ve decided to go to the other extreme and build a “well used” war weary aircraft.

 

My victim will be a Tamiya 1:48 Vought F4U-1D Corsair…

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After seeing @Dansk  Corsair build, I am in awe of his weathering skills, I thought I could have a bash at the same sort of thing, salmon, zinc chromate, aluminium chipping, faded blues and very dirty surfaces, right up my strasse.

 

As far as I’m concerned Tamiya has only one problem, their decals, so I’ve plump’d for some aftermarket “wet transfer” ones from HGW…

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I’ve not used these before and it’ll be interesting to see how they perform as I think they’re a half-way house between “decals” and “painted” masks?, you peal off the “carrier layer” once cured leaving behind "painted look" markings.

 

Other aftermarket includes some Montex glazing masks, anything for an easier life…

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…an Ultracast seat and harness, sometime ago I build a FAA Corsair and I purchased this, the set came with two of these so I had this one in my “spares”, any excuse to build another Corsair.

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I’ve also ordered a Quickboost engine…

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…and some Brengun resin wheels.

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Next I’ll be making a start on the cockpit.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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I tried to edit the above post but my machine wouldn’t let me!

The edit was :-

Nice collection of AM parts. I do like Ultracast bits, particularly their seats. I think a well cast and well painted harness is much preferable to PE.

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John,

 

Nice choice - will look forward to a masterclass in weathering!

 

Cheers,

 

Roger

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1 hour ago, Biggles87 said:

I tried to edit the above post but my machine wouldn’t let me!

The edit was :-

Nice collection of AM parts. I do like Ultracast bits, particularly their seats. I think a well cast and well painted harness is much preferable to PE.

I agree John, I'd choose a resin seat and harness 99 times out of 100, the only issue would be availability, often resin parts go out of production however I think that with the advent of 3D printing we'll be seeing far more choices

 

1 hour ago, Dunny said:

John,

 

Nice choice - will look forward to a masterclass in weathering!

 

Cheers,

 

Roger

thanks Dunny

 

if you want to see a masterclass in weathering go look at Dansk's build...

 a larger scale than what I'm doing but I'm using his build for inspiration 

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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The HGW wet transfers are really nice, and leave no clear film (unlike traditional decals). I used them for the stenciling on my 1/48 F-4J:

 

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You’ll need a pair of sharp tweezers, bright light, and perhaps a magnifier to help when you remove the film. 

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8 hours ago, billn53 said:

The HGW wet transfers are really nice, and leave no clear film (unlike traditional decals). I used them for the stenciling on my 1/48 F-4J:

 

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You’ll need a pair of sharp tweezers, bright light, and perhaps a magnifier to help when you remove the film. 

thanks for the tip 👍

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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As “normal” the build starts with the cockpit, well sort of, in reality the build starts by identifying what parts, if any, can be glued together and super-gluing various bits onto cocktail sticks in preparation for painting.

 

So I spent an hour or so snipping sprue, fixing to sticks and then giving them a coat of Stynylrez black primer

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Next I’ll be adding some paint.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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The primer was left overnight to fully cure, I didn’t really need to leave it that long but I wanted to be sure of the paint base and as I plan to use hairspray to chip the airframe I thought that I’d practice on the cockpit, if I really mess up 99% of it will be hidden so I thought this would be a good place to start.

 

I added an aluminium “base” with Xtreme metal AK 479 aluminium…

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Next I’ll be adding interior green colour.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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After a coat of hairspray had dried the cockpit was given a coat of MrColor 364 aircraft grey green (from their WWII US Army, Navy & RAF aircraft interior color set CS681)…

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…approx. 20 minutes later this layer of paint was attacked with various tools, stiff brush, toothpick, blunt pin, and water to try an create “controlled” small(ish) chips…

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Next I’ll be adding detail paint.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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20 hours ago, 81-er said:

It's looking good to me, John. Subtle and not over the top.

 

James

thanks James

 

its always a balancing act and with hairspray chipping is very easy to go over the top as large chunks of paint can easily be removed if your not paying attention.

 

rgds

John(shortCummins) 

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Starting the detail painting with vallejo 70.995 German grey.

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After a light dry-brush of vallejo Panzer Aces 305 light rubber, vallejo 70.918 ivory was used as a base for 70.937 transparent yellow (I didn’t realise I’d bought transparent paint!) and 70.957 flat red, other switches were picked out with mig steel.

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The resin seat harness was picked out with 70.976 buff.

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Next I’ll be attempting the salmon pink primer.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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As I’m using @Dansk’s excellent build for inspiration I want to add some salmon pink primer to various parts of the airframe, I’m not convinced that this would be strictly correct for this aircraft, possibly only used on early version however I like the idea of using a different colour.

Before I add the salmon pink primer, a base colour Xtreme metal AK 479 aluminium was used.

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Unfortunately my favourite MRP supplier is on holiday until the end of the month so rather than using their pre-made salmon pink I’ve had a go at mixing my own.

I used:

MRP-042 red (3 parts)

MRP-004 white (1 part) 

MRP-122 marking yellow (1 part)

this was then sprayed over a hairspray layer and then chipped.

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Next I’ll be weathering and assembling the cockpit .

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Looking good so far John , looking forward to seeing this develope and keen to see how those HGW transfers turn out too, used them before on a Spitfire build and they went on easy enough, they were lines of rivets .  Only some came  off when the carrier film was removed, but that could have been user error.

 

Great work

Chris

 

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2 hours ago, Biggles87 said:

I think you’re right John and the salmon pink probably was only used on early models but it looks good, and I won’t tell if you don’t.

 

John

🇺🇦

ha ha, thanks John

 

my excuse, just in case anyone asks, is someone found an "old" paint store and, as there's a war on, didn't want to see it go to waste?

sounds good to me 😜

 

2 hours ago, bigbadbadge said:

Looking good so far John , looking forward to seeing this develope and keen to see how those HGW transfers turn out too, used them before on a Spitfire build and they went on easy enough, they were lines of rivets .  Only some came  off when the carrier film was removed, but that could have been user error.

 

Great work

Chris

 

thanks Chris

 

this'll be the first time I've used these, funnily enough I've some of their rivets lines that I've not got around to using, I think because I got a "Rosie the Riveter" anyhow HGW have put up a YouTube video...

 

and make it look straight forward.

 

we'll see

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

 

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3 hours ago, shortCummins said:

ha ha, thanks John

 

my excuse, just in case anyone asks, is someone found an "old" paint store and, as there's a war on, didn't want to see it go to waste?

sounds good to me 😜

 

thanks Chris

 

this'll be the first time I've used these, funnily enough I've some of their rivets lines that I've not got around to using, I think because I got a "Rosie the Riveter" anyhow HGW have put up a YouTube video...

 

and make it look straight forward.

 

we'll see

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

 

Hi John they are quite easy to apply  I was using them for the raised rivets on the Spitfire fuselage after of the cockpit but the disappeared under psint pretty much, yours will be okay as they will be on top of the paint!!!

Chris

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I had the same problem with the rivets ( disappeared under paint ), so I used Micro Mark rivets on my last 1/32 scale Spitfire. They are actually HO railway scale and probably a little too prominent for 1/48.

Hope yours work out OK.

 

John

 

 

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Before adding a panel liner the interior pieces were given a coat of aqua gloss.

 

Tamiya dark brown panel liner was used to enhance the shadows.

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I used the kit supplied decals for the instrument panel settled down with MrMark softer NEO.

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Next I’ll be applying a flat coat and then assembling the cockpit.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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After a coat of aqua flat I added some AK gauzy agent to the instrument dials.

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Then the various parts were glued together.

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The cockpit sub-assembly was nailed into the fuselage which then had both halves joined together.

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Next I’ll be making a start on the engine.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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