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A question for ship (submarine) builders


Roland Pulfrew

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I’ve finally decided to try and get a long standing shelf of doom model finished. This Akula was started from my days involved with the Nimrod Force but it got stalled, I moved house (twice) and changed jobs (4 times) and it’s time it was finished!!

 

It was my first ever maritime project and it’s languished at this stage:

 

52072207691_5dc3494d19_b.jpg


for way too long. However, being new to this scale and genre, I’m stuck with some techniques. Firstly I’ve rarely used photoetch and, not surprisingly, this scale has quite a bit:

 

52072218491_b8fe2244f5_b.jpg

 

so any top tips on how to affix some quite small metal parts to the plastic bits? 


Then, looking a pictures on the t’internet, the Akulas all seem to be kept in pretty in pretty good nick,

 

52071194592_53a734a5b5_z.jpg

 

so any top tips on weathering submarines to add a bit of interest to an otherwise bland black scheme (bearing in mind this is 1/350 scale)? 

 

Any advice gratefully received.

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  • Roland Pulfrew changed the title to A question for ship (submarine) builders

Two-part epoxy resin glue pretty much sticks anything to anything so that’s an option. If that’s too thick and blobby at this scale then maybe old fashioned cyanoacrylate super-glue. 

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I have used superglue (thick-gives you a little more wriggle room), Formula 360 canopy glue (PVAish) works well and surprisingly, varnish.

As to weathering, a dark art to me and many, I can say 'a little is more'.

 

Stuart

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G'day Roland,

 

I agree with all the comments above and will add that PVA  (wood glue) can also be used and is much more benign to work with but has the drawback that it has not strength while curing and can easily move if not kept in place while curing. Unlike CA ('Superglue') it will not fog clear parts as it dries clear and is extremely easy to clean up. PVA is also surprisingly strong when cured. It is also great for attaching clear parts like the  windscreens on the conning tower/sail to avoid fogging.

 

2 Part epoxy will be very strong but like PVA has almost no strength while it cures and must be supported of held stationary until it is cured. The 5 min stuff obviously sets up quicker but for very small parts with small attaching surface area CA is still the best bet

 

In general, add any PE parts before painting if they will not be at risk of getting knocked off or damaged. Attaching unpainted PE to bare plastic will give you the best chance for a strong bond.  Mostly I would use thin  CA (for speed) but for larger items thick CA to give  a little time (3-10 sec depending on ambient temp and humidity) to adjust if required. If I can get away with PVA I will as you can just wipe off the excess with a damp cotton bud, although the same can be done with acetone for CA but be very careful as acetone may mar the plastic depending on the concentration of the acetone (nail polish remover vice the pure stuff) and reactivity of the styrene, although resin should be okay regardless

 

cheers,

 

Pappy

Edited by Pappy
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  • 3 weeks later...
On 14/05/2022 at 15:20, Bandsaw Steve said:

Two-part epoxy resin glue pretty much sticks anything to anything so that’s an option. If that’s too thick and blobby at this scale then maybe old fashioned cyanoacrylate super-glue. 

If you want an effective glue that's nice and thin, try no more nails. This looks like a pva glue, you can smear it across the area you wish to glue, fix the part in place and wipe away any excess with a piece of damp kitchen towel.....you have 5 mins drying time

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13 hours ago, junglierating said:

Have a google of laid up redundant subs in Guz (Devonport) if you want to see weathering ....makes you wonder if the internal propulsion elements are looked after better....I hope so 🤔 

I believe these boats are fully sealed and maintained safely. The exterior appearance is purely down to the effect of the weather on the exterior finish over a period of time.

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2 hours ago, Whitewolf said:

I believe these boats are fully sealed and maintained safely. The exterior appearance is purely down to the effect of the weather on the exterior finish over a period of time.

I know it was really just commenting on weathering ....I have every faith in whatever agency the MoD have contracted to look after pussers ex underwater gash barges 😀

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All subs will look bad after they have been deployed for a while no matter the nation. 

 

@junglierating not sure how you managed to say that with a straight face, if its MOD then the lowest bidder won! still I trust them more than the Russians, their stuff is just left to rot. 

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9 hours ago, Julien said:

All subs will look bad after they have been deployed for a while no matter the nation. 

 

@junglierating not sure how you managed to say that with a straight face, if its MOD then the lowest bidder won! still I trust them more than the Russians, their stuff is just left to rot. 

Read me like a book 😆

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  • 2 months later...

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