'62 Plymouth Fury (1/25 scale JO-HAN kit)

[Neddy]

This build follows on from the "One piece at a time" thread where I threatened to build a custom amalgam of the five old JO-HAN 1/25 scale '60s American car kits I've had at the back of my cupboard for the last 40-odd years.  When it came to it I just couldn't do it for several reasons:

 

1) The kits seem to be all complete which has surprised me as I only bought them as a job lot in a closing-down sale, intending to rob them for spares/custom parts for other builds.

 

2)  I've just discovered the current value of them compared with the couple of quid each I paid for them.  By the way, my previous comments still stand - if I decide not to pursue 1/25th scale building any further (which is quite likely considering my age and eyesight) the members who expressed an interest would be given first dibs at a reasonable price, I'm not looking to make loads out of them.  It would just be a criminal shame to see them go to waste if I no longer wanted them.

 

3)  The '62 Fury is a completely different style and era to the others which are all later 60s/70s when styling was a lot plainer and cars looked much more like each other, thus parts interchanged more easily if customising is the intention.  The Fury's unique almost art deco looks cry out for a straight OOB effort, hence this build attempt.

 

 

First impressions are (a) surprise that the parts aren't numbered, and (b) there is a LOT of moulding flash to deal with!  That'll keep me quiet for a while.  I'm not attempting anything too flash as far as the colour scheme is concerned, Tamiya TS-18 Metallic Red bodywork with a wine-red and black interior.  Studying online pics of the interior and engine bay there doesn't seem to be any dominant color scheme but the consensus is a lightish blue for the engine castings.

 

More when I actually have something to show...

[Pete in Lincs]

Here's a couple of pictures I found on line, I hope they help.

https://img.hmn.com/900x0/stories/2020/03/13115422/MM199-RESTO-12.jpg

 

https://img.hmn.com/fit-in/900x506/filters:upscale()/stories/2020/03/13115334/MM199-RESTO-00a.jpg

 

https://img.hmn.com/900x0/stories/2020/03/13115433/MM199-RESTO-15.jpg

[Neddy]

Thanks @Pete in Lincs, they'll be a big help. 

[Neddy]

Made a start...

 

 

Engine assembly was straightforward but I must admit I'm struggling a bit at this scale.  I'm indebted to forum members for introducing me to MOLOTOW liquid chrome, the 1mm pen is ideal for retouching chromed parts to cover sprue cutting marks and scars where moulding flash needed removing.  The headband magnifier I picked up after reading about them here is also invaluable.

[Spiny]

Good start to it, particularly when it's smaller than what you're used to. The painting looks particularly tidy. I don't know if you have any clear matt paint, but putting that on the timing belt (if you're feeling brave!) would tone down the shine on it,

 

Fully agree about the headset magnifier - in the past couple of years mine has gone from being very useful for getting the fine detail in to being a necessity for anything which needs a 5/0 brush or finer. Glad it's working for you, as you're finding they make a big difference and allow you to do stuff you wouldn't normally even be able to see. Also, as you have the Molotow Chrome, be aware that for really fine bits you can dip a paintbrush into the bit around the nib and paint it on if you're quick enough to stop it drying on the brush.

[keefr22]

1 hour ago, Spiny said:

be aware that for really fine bits you can dip a paintbrush into the bit around the nib and paint it on if you're quick enough to stop it drying on the brush.

 

I press the nib down a few times onto a piece of masking tape and get a 'puddle' of the stuff out to use with a brush. I've also recently bought some Green Stuff World chrome paint that comes in a bottle like Valejo or Ammo acrylics. It comes in two varieties, one for brushing and one for airbrushing - only tried the brush type so far and it works pretty well.

 

Motor is looking good so far Neddy. 👍

 

Keith

[Spiny]

I did do the pool method, but then I found that dipping the brush in the little wells around the nib worked just as well and didn't waste ink (which suits my Yorkshire blood ).I'll agree about the Green Stuff World Chrome, it seems to be good for brushing too. Similar performance to the Molotow Chrome, only you get more chrome for your buck.

[busnproplinerfan]

I had the hardtop of this car, wanted to kitbash it with the Dodge 330 because it has a nicer floor and bottom half, ended up selling the model before working on it. The bodies and interiors on these are very nice. Going to watch this one, like to see it done.

[desert falcon]

That‘s a very good looking engine 👍 

[Vesa Jussila]

Nice kit. I remember these were available in local hobby shop in 80's.Now these kits are in totally mad prices. Usually body shapes in Jo-Han kits are good. These were original promo kits.

[Neddy]

Just a quick and dirty update...

 

Chassis painted using a combination of matt gunmetal and satin black, with Tamiya acrylic metallic gunmetal for the exhaust systems (silver always seems a bit bright for them).  The wheels were a pain to assemble (having first painted the centres), so poorly sized I ended up pressing them into the tyres with a vise.  I then discovered that they aren't even round but I'll have to live with that.

 

I dithered for awhile over the interior colour - having researched online I found most of the images are of the sport version with garish red and white patterned upholstery (the go-to colour scheme for all the restomods I found as well), whereas the model is of the original standard Fury which had a comparatively plain pattern with only a single colour.  I'm trying to keep it as original as possible so I mixed a matt maroon with gloss red until I achieved an old-school leather look.  I'm fairly pleased with the result although at present it's a little rough around the edges and needs tidying up.

 

More when I have something new to show...

 

[Neddy]

Interior and dashboard coming together and trial-fitted...

 

 

...and fairly pleased I've achieved the period patina look I was aiming for.  The rear carpets need more attention but the fronts are pretty much there now.

[Neddy]

Just finished spraying the body.  Nothing technical, just prepped by rubbing down with 2000 grit W&D.  Compared with the rest of the model the bodyshell mould is first class - hardly any moulding lines or flash to deal with.

 

 

The hood is not yet fitted, just laid into place for spraying.  The colour incidentally is Tamiya TS-18.

 

For those watching this build, thanks for your interest so far.  I know this is neither as detailed nor well executed as most on this amazing site but it's challenging me to do the best I can at a scale somewhat smaller than I'm comfortable with and I'm enjoying doing the best I can.

Edited May 28, 2022 by Neddy

[Six97s]

It's easy to get bogged down adding details.  With these old kits, you can either spend half a lifetime re-engineering it, or just accept it for what it is and try to do a nice job.  Looks good from here.

[Neddy]

Thanks!  As you say, the idea is to keep it as original as possible.  Jo-Han were a range of relatively cheap basic kits which were a little crude even by the standards of the time but the range was vast and they replicated the more unusual - and interesting - cars of the period.  They were excellent for kit-bashing but as I said earlier on I couldn't bring myself to do anything non-standard to this one.  The slightly art deco styling has a charm all its own and any attempt at a restomod or custom build would ruin that individual style IMHO.

[mustang1989]

These old Jo-Han kits fetch a pretty penny....or two nowadays. I built a Jo-Han Ford Maverick last year and those kits are going for over $300 now. Really wish a model company would pick these old molds up and produce some newly released kits. 

 

Progress is looking good on this one Neddy.

[Tzulscha]

I just got one of these in a collection we bought.

Jo-Han Trophy Series were some of the best car kits I ever built.

Hard to find those these days, that's for certain!

 

Looks really good so far Neddy!

4 hours ago, mustang1989 said:

These old Jo-Han kits fetch a pretty penny....or two nowadays. I built a Jo-Han Ford Maverick last year and those kits are going for over $300 now. Really wish a model company would pick these old molds up and produce some newly released kits. 

 

Progress is looking good on this one Neddy.

Unfortunately the story I have on Jo-Han is that the tooling has mostly been destroyed. They will NEVER be rereleased.

Apparently someone DID buy the old tools and had them sent out to be refurbed. When he couldn't pay for the work however, the shop destroyed them.

Not certain that this is true, but that's the story... 

Shame.

[Neddy]

All the major sub-assemblies are now complete apart from the bodyshell.  Wheels and axles fitted to chassis, engine, battery and washer bag ditto.  Interior now completed including incongruous but accurate (if oversized) rev counter on steering column, seat belts fitted and worn carpet effect also completed.  Firewall fitted to bodyshell and slightly detailed...

 

 

Now the bit I'm nervous about - chromework on the bodyshell.  There is a LOT of chromework and absolutely no margin for error.  Wish me luck and thanks for following the build.

 

LATER...  While I'm impressed with MOLOTOW's bright chrome effect I'm not happy with the 1mm pen I bought to try.  it's excellent for fine work but for anything other than fine lines it's blotchy and uneven.  I've abandoned for now whilst I wait for a 2mm pen to arrive - hopefully that'll give a smoother and more even finish.  I considered a 4mm but that's going to be far too wide I think.

Edited June 3, 2022 by Neddy

[Tzulscha]

I don't know if you guys get Bare-Metal foil over there, but I'm certain that there is some equivalent.

Thin, stickyback foil is unbeatable for chrome trim in my opinion.  It's pretty easy to use and quite durable, unlike any painted chrome I've ever tried.

I like and use the Molotow pens, but the finish is SO delicate, that I only use it where it has no chance of ever being touched.

 

That is looking quite good there @Neddy.

Considering the age of that tool and it's simplified construction compared to modern kits, it still looks pretty nice.

[Pete in Lincs]

3 hours ago, Tzulscha said:

I don't know if you guys get Bare-Metal foil over there,

It is available over here. Hannants had it in stock a couple of weeks ago when I looked.

[Fnick]

Hi Neddy

 

If you are going to use BMF then I would recommend masking around the area you are going to BMF as close as you can to the edge of that area (hope that makes sense!) I found the BMF will leave residue behind that is quite tricky to remove. 

 

Also using masking tape to make templates helps a lot in not wasting the BMF.

 

Will be interesting to see what method you end up using.

 

Nick

[Neddy]

Thanks a lot for the tips guys, I'm learning a huge amount from this forum and I appreciate it.  I may try BMF in the future but I'll explore MOLOTOW more thoroughly first, I think.

[Fnick]

Hi Neddy

 

Are you going to spray or brush paint the molotow?

 

Nick

[Neddy]

Brush paint, I'm not equipped for spraying.  Yet... 

[Fnick]

Haha I like the "yet"!

 

If I may make some suggestions (most of them not my own just collated from others far nor knowledgeable than me but I have tried them!)

 

Its best to load the brush with molotow to get the best chrome effect, work fast and avoid the temptation to go over an area that has just been painted. Best leave it to dry and go over it then. 

 

I personally have not managed to get great results with brush painting molotow over large surfaces which is why I used BMF on my recent build but that could just be down to a lack of experience...

 

Nick