Wrong paint supplied

[Jeff J]

Hello!

 

I ordered 10 Revell acrylic paints from an Amazon seller.

 

Without warning one of the 10, Sea Green, has been swapped for Dark Green (presumably because he was out of stock).

 

Obviously, this is somewhat annoying, but particularly as I've already got Dark Green whereas there are other colours I could do with and would have happily taken instead.

 

Anyhoo, that's not really the point of this thread, the question is, how different is is Sea Green from Dark Green (and how might I achieve that difference)?

 

Cheers

 

J

[Black Knight]

Looking at my mini pots Sea Green is much lighter and a bit greyer

Maybe, maybe, add some very very light grey into the Dark Green

[Casey]

I will try to answer the last question first. I assume you are making an British color scheme, so here is my reference:

 

 

And now when it comes to Revel paints... they claim their equivalences on their page (https://www.revell.com/revell-paint-guide/) to be:

 

32139 Dark Green = RLM 71

32168 Dark Green = RLM 82 (they call it Dark Green RAF). They did not specify which RLM82 they are referring to... I assume the green one which is called gray violet in one place of the reference book but is not a bad match...

 

Sea Green to be

 

32148 = RAL6028

32162 = RAL6005

 

No clue which one you got and why they even have two of each, so it is bit hard to make comparison there... But let me try first comparing the referenced RLM with British source:

 

Dark Green seems to be similar shade to RLM71 but not quite in brightness - with measured spectrophotometer difference of DE00=4.41 (visibly different)

 

Now the fun part... compare RLM71 to RAL. RLM71 vs RAL6028

 

And RAL6005

 

... RAL6006 would do in a pinch but... it is not listed as equivalence. The collors they refer to are way oversaturated.

 

There are numerous posts on how the 'green shade' was created in reality - usually made by mixing black and ochre - and those greens of RAL are way too saturated to be possible without pigments.

 

If you have Tamiya somewhere, you can try the following mixes:

 

RAF004 - Dark Green - Flat
    Suggested using total of 12 parts (DE00: 0.32)
        XF-13 - J.A. Green: 5
        XF-1 - Flat White: 1
        XF-4 - Yellow Green: 4
        XF-2 - Flat Black: 2

RAF005 - Extra Dark Sea Green - Flat
    Suggested using total of 25 parts (DE00: 0.48)
        XF-1 - Flat White: 11
        XF-11 - J.N. Green: 13
        XF-8 - Flat Blue: 1

 

I've started a larger thread regarding those colors one day too:

 

 

Picture may be worth 1000 words, but real paint sample is worth 1000 pictures.

 

And I use spectrophotometer as equivalent of an modern version of an axe to solve my color disputes 😃

Edited May 1, 2022 by Casey
Added more mixes reference

[Jeff J]

How's that for a detailed reply!

 

Just for clarity, I ordered Matt 48, but received Matt 39.

 

Jeff

[Casey]

34 minutes ago, Jeff J said:

How's that for a detailed reply!

 

Just for clarity, I ordered Matt 48, but received Matt 39.

 

Jeff

Their paint refrence say:

 

Matt 48 is RAL6028.

Matt 39 is RLM71

 

There is a picture above that shows the difference.

 

I would just mix my own color...

[Casey]

... and it is exactly what I did for fun, to show an real example of how I am solving this type of problem.

 

I have calculated an recipe for the target paint:

 

RAF005 - Extra Dark Sea Green - Flat
    Suggested using total of 18 parts (DE00: 0.50)
        Bone Black: 13
        Benzimidazolone Yellow Medium: 1
        Titanium White: 3
        Phthalo Green (Yellow Shade): 1
    Mixture gloss: 37.54

 

I measured small amount of those paints it in a jar:

 

My math says the end result will be very satin, so I added 1:1 Liquitex Ultra Matte Medium

 

Mixed it up...

 

 

And here is the result:

 

Edited April 30, 2022 by Casey