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Supermarine Seafire FR.47; Special Hobby 1/72 - FINISHED


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1/72 Spitfire windscreens are never easy. An aftermarket mask set helps if one is available. There are some that can brush paint them, I am not one of them. Finally, I am a huge fan of Falcon’s canopy sets, they make some older-and newer! kits look much better. It may seem silly to buy a bunch of Spitfire canopies, but you will use most of them eventually. https://www.falconmodels.co.nz/clearvax72.html

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Nice work on the canopy.

I don't know if it would help but when I need small thin strips of tape I use an Infini Cutting Board.

 

vtTWu4P.jpg

 

I find it invaluable for finicky stuff.

 

For the Invasion Stripes I tend to go with Nato Black and Flat White with a couple of drops of Buff mixed through.

I've had my issues with the stripes so my take may not be worth listening to.:D

 

Cheers,

Alistair

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42 minutes ago, Ngantek said:

 all 1/48 scale kit builders ever and various other unmentionables

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My noobs guide to model scales 😛 

 

1/72 - for kids 

1/48 - the gentleman’s scale 

1/32 - boomer scale 

1/24 - giga chad


 

Amazing work on the canopy masking. No chance I would have the patience or steady hands for that! 

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2 hours ago, Chuuurles said:

My noobs guide to model scales 😛 

 

“1/72 - for kids”

Air strikes are inbound from around the globe! Led by an Airfix Lancaster squadron armed with Tallboys! Your bunker will not help you!

Edited by Robin-42
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19 minutes ago, Robin-42 said:

Air strikes are inbound from around the globe! Led by an Airfix Lancaster squadron armed with Tallboys! Your bunker will not help you!

Lol shook! I was 100% joking and I know you are but I still think I’ll edit that out! 

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23 minutes ago, Chuuurles said:

Lol shook! I was 100% joking and I know you are but I still think I’ll edit that out! 

Too late, the Lancs have Lucas radios. They can’t be called off. They only work until they are installed.🤣

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5 hours ago, Robin-42 said:

1/72 Spitfire windscreens are never easy. An aftermarket mask set helps if one is available. There are some that can brush paint them, I am not one of them. Finally, I am a huge fan of Falcon’s canopy sets, they make some older-and newer! kits look much better. It may seem silly to buy a bunch of Spitfire canopies, but you will use most of them eventually. https://www.falconmodels.co.nz/clearvax72.html

Thanks for the tips! This one is somewhat rough so would've benefitted from a replacement, although the join is so odd, I suspect a vacform might have needed care to sit properly. I have a falcon one for the 1/48 airfix, but having some in the stash is a nice idea.

 

5 hours ago, AliGauld said:

Nice work on the canopy.

I don't know if it would help but when I need small thin strips of tape I use an Infini Cutting Board.

 

 

 

I find it invaluable for finicky stuff.

 

For the Invasion Stripes I tend to go with Nato Black and Flat White with a couple of drops of Buff mixed through.

I've had my issues with the stripes so my take may not be worth listening to.:D

 

Cheers,

Alistair

Thanks! It turns out I'm even more of a of a hoarder of tools than kits so am always on the lookout for this kind of thing. At the moment, I'm somewhat reliant on a little engineers square.

 

5 hours ago, Chuuurles said:

My noobs guide to model scales 😛 

 

1/72 - for kids 

1/48 - the gentleman’s scale 

1/32 - boomer scale 

1/24 - giga chad


 

Amazing work on the canopy masking. No chance I would have the patience or steady hands for that! 

Heheh. Sorry to stir that one up. No doubt when I build in 48, I'll be cursing 72 builders for their nice simple kits!

 

I always think the masking looks good until I take a picture and realise how rough it is!

 

 

So for the afternoon session, a little more progress.

WE HAVE COLOUR! WOOO!

Feels like it's taken a long time to get here, both due to high fraction of incompetent faffing and because of a lack of time to actually do stuff. 

 

I gave it a spray of vallejo chipping solution first. That stuff is thick but seemed to think with vallejo thinner. Also turns out it's the only substance on earth that doesn't seem to dissolve in acetone, instead turning into a weird goop. Fortunately I have tons of random products that I never use, and vallejo cleaner got rid of it. (Aside, I've devolved into cleaning the airbrush of everything with acetone. It's easy cheap and seems to work better than anything else).

 

The model got a thin spray of Sky (thanks to @Casey for the mix). I usually spray relatively thin and low, but to learn about the preshade, I opted for thinner and lower still. With a light colour it turns out it's very controllable taking the opacity gradually up. Unfortunately my crappy preshade looked crappy, so basically I wiped it out completely.

20220610_164459

What with the invasion stripes and window of sky for the serial number, it's a bit of a logic puzzle deciding how to mask and what order to paint. Fortunately, I've had a lot of time to obsessively  think about it while not making progress. The obvious thing would be to do the white first and gradually add darker colours, but the masking around the fuselage band would've been a huge pain. I figured I could get away with white on sky.

 

The wing stripes needed a little care since the 'overprinted markings' decal needs to fit between the stripes and the wheelbay. 

20220610_170434

Between this and the window for the fuselage serial number, that means cutting out decals with the associated hazards of characteristic acetone spills and getting lost. Hopefully they'll be there when I need them. 

 

The bands are a bit wider than marked because I'm too stupid to divide 5 stripes into 18.5mm

20220610_171544

Thanks @AliGauld I went white with some warm light grey.

 

 

Maybe get some EDSG on tonight possibly maybe....

 

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2 hours ago, Ngantek said:

invasion stripes

They were ID stripes in Korea, for a our trigger happy allies....

2 hours ago, Ngantek said:

The bands are a bit wider than marked because I'm too stupid to divide 5 stripes into 18.5mm

By and large i use metric, but there are aspects of modelling, when dealing with scale derived from imperial measurement, and relating to things done in imperial measurements, it's just easier to use them,  as the scale down exactly.   

I presume they are supposed to be 12 inch each full size.... ?   

Out of curiosity I did 18.5mm x 72 = 1332mm/25.4mm...come up with 52.44 inch?    52/5 = 10.4.....     I appreciate imperial is gobbeldegook for those under 50...   (I meanwhile got the worst of both, a supposedly metric education when everyone still worked in imperial..)    but you need to think in base 12, (which is not as silly as it seems, 10 has 2 whole divisors, 2 and 5, while 12 has 2,3,4,6 and it makes a bit more sense,  and 'back then' money was also on base 12 (12pence to a shilling, 240 pence to a pound)   back to my point, 

 

if they are 12 inch, or 1 foot stripes in full size, in 1/72nd that makes makes them exactly 1/6th of an inch wide,   

or 4.23 mm....   

which is long winded way of saying in dealing with models based on imperial ratios with markings painted in imperial sizes,  it can just be easier to use imperial as the measurements are whole imperial factions... which are on a good ruler. 

Ironically this is the only reason I can use imperial measurements..... is from my model building youth.... 

 

You like tools? You can get scale rulers in imperial/metric ...this says it is 1/72..

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383686357301

 

this one is imperial scale but scale metric...   useful say for Luftwaffe subjects in multiple scales...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324022309607  

 

I have (somewhere)  a 6 inch rule I got in a pound shop years ago that usefully has 48ths of an inch marked, making 1/48th working easier,   annoyingly the rulers up on ebay are not marked with 1/12 inch divisions but 1/10 or 1/16th.    I had a search for one with other fractions but no luck

 

One tool I don't have, but can see would be vey handy at times is a precision marking ruler,  basically it's got lots of little holes you can mark through.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403428021719

 

Having read through the thread quickly. A few points/ideas.

 

Filler... superglue and talc, very fast drying, does not shrink or crack, feathers out, can be scraped and sanded.  Consistency can be varied by differ ratios, and is softer than just superglue.    Great for little filling jobs, mix up, apply,  work in a couple of mins,  given the constraints on your time,  maybe worth trying.

 

From the trails and tribulations,  maybe for this kind of kit, go for an initial dry assembly of the main bits,  adjust/scrape/shim to get an overall decent airframe fit, and the adjust internals to fit this.  

I like using small bits/strips of gaffa tape,   as keeps it's stick for a while, handy between adjustments,  and gives a sturdy hold.    

 

Attaching the upper wing parts to the fuselage can work well in some cases.    

 

Enough of my witter,  hope some maybe of use.

 

Seafire coming along well,  :goodjob:

 

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3 hours ago, bigbadbadge said:

Great job on that intake, looks good, the canopy masking looks fiddly,  I am very hlad I don't airbrush, that masking would drive me insane.

Chris

 

 

Aiyee if I could paint as well as you I also would never mask anything ever again!

 

43 minutes ago, Troy Smith said:

I presume they are supposed to be 12 inch each full size.... ?   

Out of curiosity I did 18.5mm x 72 = 1332mm/25.4mm...come up with 52.44 inch?    52/5 = 10.4.....     I appreciate imperial is gobbeldegook for those under 50...   (I meanwhile got the worst of both, a supposedly metric education when everyone still worked in imperial..)    but you need to think in base 12, (which is not as silly as it seems, 10 has 2 whole divisors, 2 and 5, while 12 has 2,3,4,6 and it makes a bit more sense,  and 'back then' money was also on base 12 (12pence to a shilling, 240 pence to a pound)   back to my point, 

I didn't even consider thinking like this, but that would've been sensible! is 12" a 'standard' kind of specification in RAF/FAA markings? could it be 10" perhaps? You're right, thinking a more historically (or just plain thinking in my case!) can take a huge amount of guesswork out of the situation! I thought 4mm would be an easy 'standard for me to work with, of course it wasn't until I got around to masking that I realised that I didn't actually have any 4mm masking tape and spent most of the session labouriously cutting some! I do kinda still think in imperial (somewhat of a necessity if you work in engineering in the UK), but am definitiely of the age that I'm metric at heart. But yeah a good 72nd rule will be invaluable! I'll definitely grab one, thanks, and for the pointers. It's been a good learning experience, and as you say, the more you look ahead and test fit, the happier you are!
 

 

Okay so quite the masking job today, but I did get around to the EDSG, and indeed some NATO black!

Pre EDSG. I ran out of paint whe mixing, so the amount in the bottle is marginal. I was 50/50 about using H333 gunze aqueous to avoid the problem, but we've gone mix this time around.

20220610_215954

 

Masked up for NATO black:

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And end of day:

20220610_234802 20220610_234816 20220610_234827

 

A little untidy in places, and I asked a little more of the EDSG than was sensible, so it suffered from the masking tape here and there. So a little touching up to do, but generally pretty chuffed with how few catastrophies unfolded. The canopy got a coat too, so I could potentially try some chipping... but even money I'll just leave it to be honest! I'm now debating whether the paint can take decals directly; whether to sand just in decal areas before, or whether to do the usual gloss cote. Anyway a good day this one! Cheers all for the help, entertainment and simply looking in.

 

Andy

 

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Thanks for the kind words!

 

I don't have a huge experience of tidying up. The black in particular (being late at night), I was a little hasty on and so the seams need some sharpening. I've done some with brush in the past, it isn't so easy to hide on high contrast even lines like this.

 

How do you guys deal with this? I was considering some very thin low pressure spray with the needle guard off and some quick very localised masking with a few strips of tape or a postit note. Of course I could sand down any ridges and just redo the full masking and spraying, but that's quite a big job. 

 

The fuselage stripe I plain messed up, that needs a larger correction but the untidy ID stripes, odd cracks in the mask, I wonder if I can get away with 'detail' airbrushing.

 

I also can't decide whether this is the kit to experiment with decalling straight onto paint. The plan was to sand and buff the decal areas but there are a lot of tiny stencils!

 

More and more I'm thinking I should get some simple 1/72 kits on subjects I'm pretty unfussed about to try all these new materials and techniques. When I get to this point on a build like this, I start to get a little protective and conservative. I might also stand a chance of finishing them one day.

 

Cheers,

Andy

 

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Localised low pressure 'detail' airbrushing as you suggest would seem best Andy. You may still need to mask somewhat. I've tried brush repairs but I can usually see them later unless they're very small. From the photos it looks good, but I can't see the glitches that you can.

 

You may have reached that stage (most modellers do, I have frequently) where you're becoming super critical of your own work and in a week you'll be thinking 'why was I worried?' I'd avoid major rework if you can.

 

Decals. Your paint look smooth but also quite matt so I can't see decals going down that well without a gloss coat.

 

Take my advice with caution as I'm an enamel paint modeller. Hope this helps,

 

 

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5 hours ago, Johnson said:

Localised low pressure 'detail' airbrushing as you suggest would seem best Andy. You may still need to mask somewhat. I've tried brush repairs but I can usually see them later unless they're very small. From the photos it looks good, but I can't see the glitches that you can.

 

You may have reached that stage (most modellers do, I have frequently) where you're becoming super critical of your own work and in a week you'll be thinking 'why was I worried?' I'd avoid major rework if you can.

Thanks that's a good suggestions that I went with (see below!). Thanks also to @Chuuurles, who had similar very helpful suggestions and encouragement. Certainly there were some obvious mask gap oversprays (see wingroots), which clearly needed work and cleaned up pretty nicely and easily. I think it was mostly down to feeling a bit peeved, that no matter how many times I do it, I will still rush some stage and find that an extra 10 minutes pause, thought and care would've saved hours of remedial work. This was the case with the black, which showed signs of overspraying all over. I always say 'next time' I'll stop when there's just enough paint down, rather than hamfistedly ploughing on 'just in case'.

 

It is as you say with the super criticality. While there were some issues that needed remedying, I actually found myself (after the initial joy of demasking and seeing a recognisable aircraft magically appear for the first time), somewhat despondent about the build yesterday for no real obvious reason, other than it needed some unplanned work, and I wasn't sure how to do it.

 

As to decals, I think you're right. I'm not that worried about being able to sand down to a finish that will take the decal, although as you say, they're matte tamiyas producing a fairly matte finish. It's more, aside for the faff of doing the sanding, that I don't trust my ability to not damage the surrounding paint with my poor application and solution overspill. I think in this case, certainly I'll do a gloss layer, but try to keep it thin... As I say, I've had issues losing panel line definition and consequently difficulty getting the wash to grip, mainly resulting from too many stages of gloss, and want to work on that this build. Perhaps I'll experiment with thinning with MLT or using lacquers to start from a glossier finish if I want to attempt direct decal-on-paint.

 

So this evening I went about making some repairs, and I actually spend the whole evening going through all four colours (the white was a bit of a guess, since it was an on the spot mix that needed replicating. I tried to make sure I feathered any white-on-white transistions with that one!).

20220612_225656

It probably doesn't look very different, but we all know the feeling of seeing faults everywhere on our own models!

 

It was actually excellent practice for me, for using very thin mixtures with small, very gradual applications. The number of times I think I have it cracked and then the next time it never works out as well; powdering at too high a pressure, while still tip drying at too low. But the lines I did work on certainly came out the sharpest of all, so it was worth the effort I think. The starboard wing root demarcation was actually way off to the point of triggering, so I redid that completely. The fuselage bands still look off, I suspect a part (having measured them again) is a bit of an optical illusion caused by the intersection of the narrowing fuselage and the sudden flare of the fin. I did forget to clean up the cockpit antiglare, but I think I can brush that one maybe even on top of the gloss. And of course some of the lines that I didn't work on are still a little rough, but I'm hoping they'll hide a little bit under clear cotes and washes.

 

I'd hoped to get some gloss down tonight actually, but with work tomorrow, the chances are I'd rush and bugger it up!

 

Anyway, thanks again for the help!

 

Andy

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Long time no see! Another very busy few weeks and so this has had to take a back seat. I did get one evening in which I had a bash at chipping with some water and a glass fibre brush. It was something of a disaster! Of course having left so much time, the paint didn't want to come up. I'd hoped that just meant I'd need to put a bit more elbow grease into it, but all it resulted in was smearing a lot of paint across the demarcations. I got a bit of nice chipping in places, but mostly it just made it messy and occasionally went through to the plastic. 

 

So today being the first chance I've really had to have another go at it, most of the morning was spent restoring the paintwork back to where it was. I wrestled with the idea of using a darkened shade to make the repairs, but in the end suspected that it'd look rubbish (the rest of the build is too monotone), so stuck with the same colour. On the plus side it gave me a chance to tidy up the antiglare. A lot of messing around with the props, wheels, cannons and whatnot too, so not a lot of visual progress today, but lots of little things that needed doing. Somehow lost one of the short cannon barrels, so had to replace it by cutting back one of the 'longer' earlier mark ones included on the sprue, and shaping it down. I have a suspicion that the instructions have the propeller blades labelled incorrectly, but more likely I just got them mixed up somewhere through the process. I hope I've got them the right way now. 

 

Finally a thin coat of GX100. It's not what you'd call a smooth gloss, I'm trying to minimise the layer. I'm hoping that will be sufficient for decals, and I can level the surface properly afterwards.

20220624_162739

 

20220624_162757

bugger, I stuck the gloss on the stand in a couple of places. I'll have to see how well that repairs.

 

Nice to get the chance to build again. Decals next I think!

 

Cheers,

Andy

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Looks good in the pics Andy, but I see what you mean about the texture of the GX100. Hopefully the decals will adhere OK. And a bit of an Arrrgghhh moment with the gloss sticking! I'me sure it will repair fine.

 

Cheers,

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50 minutes ago, Johnson said:

Looks good in the pics Andy, but I see what you mean about the texture of the GX100. Hopefully the decals will adhere OK. And a bit of an Arrrgghhh moment with the gloss sticking! I'me sure it will repair fine.

 

Cheers,

Thanks, yeah usually I'd give it another wet layer to level and gloss it out, but I get issues filling in detail, so I'm trying to see what I can get away with. I was hoping that might be enough to seal the paint and be flat enough, at least on the scale at which decals can deform. I could give it another layer or polish it level if you think this is too wavy for decals?

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5 hours ago, Ngantek said:

Long time no see! Another very busy few weeks and so this has had to take a back seat. I did get one evening in which I had a bash at chipping with some water and a glass fibre brush. It was something of a disaster! Of course having left so much time, the paint didn't want to come up. I'd hoped that just meant I'd need to put a bit more elbow grease into it, but all it resulted in was smearing a lot of paint across the demarcations. I got a bit of nice chipping in places, but mostly it just made it messy and occasionally went through to the plastic. 

 

So today being the first chance I've really had to have another go at it, most of the morning was spent restoring the paintwork back to where it was. I wrestled with the idea of using a darkened shade to make the repairs, but in the end suspected that it'd look rubbish (the rest of the build is too monotone), so stuck with the same colour. On the plus side it gave me a chance to tidy up the antiglare. A lot of messing around with the props, wheels, cannons and whatnot too, so not a lot of visual progress today, but lots of little things that needed doing. Somehow lost one of the short cannon barrels, so had to replace it by cutting back one of the 'longer' earlier mark ones included on the sprue, and shaping it down. I have a suspicion that the instructions have the propeller blades labelled incorrectly, but more likely I just got them mixed up somewhere through the process. I hope I've got them the right way now. 

 

Finally a thin coat of GX100. It's not what you'd call a smooth gloss, I'm trying to minimise the layer. I'm hoping that will be sufficient for decals, and I can level the surface properly afterwards.

20220624_162739

 

20220624_162757

bugger, I stuck the gloss on the stand in a couple of places. I'll have to see how well that repairs.

 

Nice to get the chance to build again. Decals next I think!

 

Cheers,

Andy

Glad you managed to get some modelling time in! I miss the gang here but life comes first.. 

 

I love the propellers on this aircraft, so menacing 😛  Have you tried the Alclad aqua gloss recommended by to me by Procopious? Excited to see some decals! 

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Okay so I blundered straight in there! Didn't even think enough to start with some small un-noticeable decals on the underside! Schoolboy errors abound.

 

To start with, it's my first time using Tamiya markfit stronk! and it's brilliant stuff. I'd been using vallejo's dodgy looking goops before and really not got on with them; the fix goes everywhere and stains like anything, and the solvent doesn't seem to melt the decals particularly effectively. Tamiya's stuff beads disturbingly, but seems to work nicely and somehow disappears into the ether rather than form pools of sadness that need hiding afterwards. So yeah, we'll see the results but I'm impressed so far.

 

Anyway the decals do seem to sit into the relatively rough surface, so hopefully no air trapped underneath. I'm still undecided whether to give the thing another layer of gloss before adding the rest of the decals. It seems okay and I'm cautiously optimistic that the decal sheen will disappear beneath the sealing layer of varnish; and that the bumpiness will disappear once the next gloss has gone down and the decals sanded flat; but perhaps it's not sensible to ask quite so much of providence.

 

Oh. also.. yeah.. this...

 

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😩It's such a stoopid error I had a crazy urge not to post it, which makes no sense at all. Learning mindset y'all! Plus I figure I'm doing britmodeller a service by making everyone look better. You measure measure and re-measure and think you're sure, but I evidently missed the 5th remeasure stage! I think it'll be fine, just a bit of a pain, to mask off the decal and gaps and fill in the missing black once it's all safely sealed under varnish, but sheesh! What a muppet 🤣:wall:!

 

You can see the how it's sat onto the rather dodgy surface:

20220624_224441

 

I ...think.. it's conforming. Anyway my handwavium is that a true matt layer is pitted on a microscopic level, way wavier than a decal can conform to (allowing air in the pits), but there's a point that, while still rough looking, the microscopic scale of indents will be filled and you get a visibly rough texture that is of a scale that a decal can follow.

 

So we'll see how well this most visible of all surfaces (😭) dries overnight, and I'll decide whether to regloss the rest before applying more.

 

wow that bodge job cannon is really looking rubbish!

 

Andy

 

 

 

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20 minutes ago, Chuuurles said:

Have you tried the Alclad aqua gloss recommended by to me by Procopious? 

I have, I tend to use it with alcads, since it doesn't seem to cloud metallics quite so much. It's good stuff, I've not got it to work quite so well as Gunze however. I quite like the latter because it's bullet proof once it's cured, which suits my blundering elephant approach to modelling quite well. The plan is to do more 'quick' builds of stuff I'm not going to get too fussed about and try out a lot of this stuff a bit more.

 

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The paint with ID stripes looks good , I appreciate the boblyness you mentioned, I use Microsol to settle my decals and if I get silvering I try and put a pin hole or two into the affected areas and then try more softener and I'd that failed a thinned gloss coat to flow in sometimes it works.

Don't be too hard on yourself too it is all a big learning curve and we learn by our efforts.

Looks pretty impressive overall to me.

Great work 

Chris

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On 24/06/2022 at 23:26, bigbadbadge said:

The paint with ID stripes looks good , I appreciate the boblyness you mentioned, I use Microsol to settle my decals and if I get silvering I try and put a pin hole or two into the affected areas and then try more softener and I'd that failed a thinned gloss coat to flow in sometimes it works.

Don't be too hard on yourself too it is all a big learning curve and we learn by our efforts.

Looks pretty impressive overall to me.

Great work 

Chris

Thanks Chris, that's very kind. The hardest thing seems to be eliminated the boneheaded stuff (see below), and also how a lot of techniques seem to take a good while to 'get'. No end of times I think I have something down, but find the next time that it doesn't work out quite as well. But aside from the obvious slightly dodgy execution, I feel my finish is always a little 'flat' and toylike, so perhaps some more efforts with layering and colour depth are in order in the future.

 

 

In the end, I did go for a proper gloss layer over the existing decals and the remaining surface. Of course, I'm entirely unable to do anything without making an ordeal out of it and in this case, I got a little heavy handed at one point, causing a bit of excess on the top wing to pool on the trailing edge of the lower. I attempted to 'flow' that forward along the lower wing surface with my final pure MLT spray, but overdid it, stripping the gloss and running a little paint there. That required a tidy up with sky (which I seem to be doing about as often as knocking off those confounded cannon barrels), and another quick layer of gloss.

 

Anyway the transfers are all on. That Tamiya stuff really is a revelation, and it mostly went off pretty well. I think not trying to do it in one sitting helped a lot, allowing decals that I obviously was going to stick my finger into to dry. The decals are pretty good, quite robust, but not excessively thick, and sit down nicely. The stencils are maybe a touch bold, and the squadron insignia was misprinted a little, but otherwise perfect. I buggered up the 'P' on the tail and had to resort to some xtradecal spares.

But again, we couldn't have a build update without some top quality muppetry...

20220626_160010

I put the blinking underside numbers on the wrong way around, laying aft of the wheel bays rather than forward. I think when it kinda fit one way my brain was incapable of processing symmetry and so I assumed that it must be right since surely it could only fit one way. I noticed reasonably quickly, but the decal was already pretty well sat and cured, so peeling it off was guaranteed to end in tears. I could've gone with a different serial number (not be particularly picky on the historical accuracy), but the side serial number was already on. In the end I decided to double down on the error and have the numbers too far aft, which requires some decal surgery on the wheel bay parts, and will need some bits of numbers to be filled in with black paint laters. Eeesh what an eejit!🤣

20220626_161930

 

 

so here we are, I'll let them cure, then it's a case of when to panel wash and when to seal. As I've said, I've struggled with poorly defined panel lines owing to excessive glossing and sanding back, so I may try the was over the decals, or at least try to seal with a minimal layer. In any case, I'll certainly try to wash before I sand back the decal bumps, as I think this is also contributing to the ill defined lines. I think then the various repair work with black paint can wait until just before the final matt/satin layer, as I don't want to sand it off.

 

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Well, we're getting there slowly!

 

Cheers,

Andy

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Always a great moment when you get the decals on and you get a idea how the model will look.

Once sealed and washed with what ever you are doing your panel lines in, any poorly defined ones could be pencilled in perhaps???

It is looking good to me,  so great work. 

Chris

 

 

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