multiple layers

[masterKamera]

Have been seeing that when you want to do extra layers, that you should let the paint dry, apply a clear cloat, let that dry, and then do the next layer of paint so that if you screw the paint up its a simple "solvent rag" wipe up and you can start over and not screw every other bit of paint up. 

 

But I am curious, if you are using the paint thinner for cleanup, how is a quick wipe NOT going to damage the clear coat and the previous paint?

[Casey]

It is never as easy as solvent rag wipe full layer of paint

 

But it is completely possible to have a clear layer as 'oopsie' protection if it is relatively immune to the next layer thinner when dry and cured.

 

Good example may be water based acrylics - they are thinned and cleaned when not fully set with pure water, which will not affect cured acrylic clear coat.

[Mark Harmsworth]

Gosh. That sounds like a lot of effort. I have no idea what you would be painting but generally I would only apply a varnish after I'd finished all the painting (which normally involves quite a lot of masking as well).

 

Perhaps you could explain a bit more what you are trying to achieve.

Mark

[ckw]

4 hours ago, masterKamera said:

But I am curious, if you are using the paint thinner for cleanup, how is a quick wipe NOT going to damage the clear coat and the previous paint?

I have done this when attempting a tricky free hand mottle camouflage, working with enamels.

 

1- paint base coat

2- spray coat of future/klear

3 - first mottle colour

4- spray future/klear

5 - 2nd mottle colour

7 - spray final matt varnish coat

 

Future/klear is acrylic, so fairly impervious to white spirit. By protecting each enamel coat with an acrylic layer, I have the option to wipe off any mistakes with a tissue dampened in white spirit without disturbing the underlying layers (and there were many mistakes!)

 

Tedious? Yes, but less so than having to strip everything back to bare plastic after making a mistake on the final layer!

 

This would not work though if you were using lacquer or alcohol  based acrylics (e.g Tamiya), for colour as the cleaning solvent would eat through the protective layer. It might work with water based acrylics (e.g. Vallejo), but I'm not sure how much time you have to remove the paint with water.

 

Cheers

 

Colin

[masterKamera]

5 hours ago, ckw said:

I have done this when attempting a tricky free hand mottle camouflage, working with enamels.

 

1- paint base coat

2- spray coat of future/klear

3 - first mottle colour

4- spray future/klear

5 - 2nd mottle colour

7 - spray final matt varnish coat

 

Future/klear is acrylic, so fairly impervious to white spirit. By protecting each enamel coat with an acrylic layer, I have the option to wipe off any mistakes with a tissue dampened in white spirit without disturbing the underlying layers (and there were many mistakes!)

 

Tedious? Yes, but less so than having to strip everything back to bare plastic after making a mistake on the final layer!

 

This would not work though if you were using lacquer or alcohol  based acrylics (e.g Tamiya), for colour as the cleaning solvent would eat through the protective layer. It might work with water based acrylics (e.g. Vallejo), but I'm not sure how much time you have to remove the paint with water.

 

Cheers

 

Colin

thats the procedure i was reading about, get a layer painted up good, let it dry, clear coat it, and then if you screw up the next bit of paint simply wipe it off. 

 

Its hard to get some data/techniques clear because not everyone is using the same clear coat for the same paint. 

[Space Ranger]

A clear coat between enamel coats is not necessary. The reason is chemistry: Enamels do not "dry," they cure through polymerization, and once the original coat is completely cured, applying another coat of enamel on top, or attempting to re-activate it using its original solvent, will have no effect on the first coat.

[ckw]

On 29/04/2022 at 19:08, Space Ranger said:

applying another coat of enamel on top, or attempting to re-activate it using its original solvent, will have no effect on the first coat.

Then why is it possible (though not recommended!) to strip enamel paint off a model using white spirit?

 

Cheers

 

Colin

[Space Ranger]

6 hours ago, ckw said:

Then why is it possible (though not recommended!) to strip enamel paint off a model using white spirit?

 

Cheers

 

Colin

It’s possible if the enamel has not completely cured or if the enamel has been thinned with lacquer thinner (cellulose). Thinning enamel with lacquer thinner will cause it to appear be completely “dry,” but it still has to cure completely.

[Moggy]

I use acrylics. What I do to fix accidents when painting is to first let the paint dry completely - then use sandpaper carefully to remove the offending blemish. Then I repaint the area. In this way the rest of the paintwork (and decals) is left untouched.

 

The idea of attacking my paintwork with a "rag of solvent" makes me shudder 🤣

 

Cheers, Moggy (loves painting models)

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

On 4/29/2022 at 6:01 AM, ckw said:

This would not work though if you were using lacquer or alcohol  based acrylics (e.g Tamiya), for colour as the cleaning solvent would eat through the protective layer. It might work with water based acrylics (e.g. Vallejo), but I'm not sure how much time you have to remove the paint with water.

Ive never had a problem using Tamiya yellow cap lacquer thinners over clear (Pledge). It takes something akin to vinegar or acetone to really eat through that fast. I using a cotton ear bud and wipe vigorously to remove paint. After 20-30 seconds stop and wipe it down with a distilled or tap water soaked tissue. Ive been doing this for years and never had an issue.  

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

On 4/29/2022 at 11:37 AM, masterKamera said:

thats the procedure i was reading about, get a layer painted up good, let it dry, clear coat it, and then if you screw up the next bit of paint simply wipe it off. 

 

Its hard to get some data/techniques clear because not everyone is using the same clear coat for the same paint. 

Thats the way I always work with acrylics like Vallejo or Ammo by Mig. They can be very temperamental with masking. So its easier to seal and paint over. Time consuming … yes it is, but definitely worth the effort to have less aggravation and desires of Seppuku if you ruin a paint job. 

Edited May 1, 2022 by Corsairfoxfouruncle