Casey Posted April 15, 2022 Share Posted April 15, 2022 (edited) Here is the data I've gathered from British Aviation colours of World War Two book: Keep in mind that it is a book from late 70's, so there is a certain amount of ageing on paint chips. Here are the raw data, for D65/10 light/observer and D/8 geometry SCI spectrophotometer. I've also calculated and tested recipes for those. Please note that the RGB values in the raw data above are calculated by my spectrophotometer for D65/10 deg observer while sRGB is defined as D65/2 deg - my math for recipe calculation reflects that. Paint mixing is made in spectral space for each wavelengths in 400-700nm range (with 10nm resolution) anyway That also means, RGB's will be slightly different Golden Fluid Acrylics have finish depending on the pigment, so you need to add matt medium to get them to matt (flat) level, I like Liquitex Ultra Matte medium or Golden Matt Fluid Medium, I usually use 1:1 medium to paint ratio. Liquitex Basic Fluids are satin, so you will need matt medium, but you can get away without it if you like satin finish Tamiya Acrylics are dead flat. Tamiya Lacquers are glass glossy, so you need to cover them with flat clear. Because Tamiya are only using a very few pigments the color matches are metameric at best. I've added metamerism report to the results - in this report instead of one color and target simulation I give 3 pair of color simulations for: daylight (6500K), warm incandescent light (2856K) and fluorescent (cheap 'cool white' LED, ~4200K) and also the DE00 values for those. One example of poor metameric match is Azure Blue in Tamiya Acrylics, the color is too saturated and too 'blue' under incandescent light even if it looks fine in daylight. When using MASS, calculate the ratios using scales and weight the paint. Paints do not have equal density. Only Tamiya recipes are calculated for volume. Golden Fluid Acrylics, using MASS Spoiler RAF01 - Light Earth | GU 4.0 Target: #AB8D68, Mixture: #AA8D69 Raw Umber: 5 parts Transparent Red Iron Oxide: 2 parts Diarylide Yellow: 2 parts Titanium White: 11 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.27 RAF02 - Dark Earth | GU 3.3 Target: #79654E, Mixture: #7A654F Titan Green Pale: 5 parts Raw Sienna: 33 parts Van Dyke Brown Hue: 9 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.18 RAF03 - Light Green | GU 2.9 Target: #666A58, Mixture: #666958 Primary Cyan: 5 parts Transparent Red Iron Oxide: 13 parts Titanium White: 7 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.28 RAF04 - Dark Green | GU 2.6 Target: #57594D, Mixture: #585A4E Teal: 7 parts Van Dyke Brown Hue: 19 parts Hansa Yellow Opaque: 2 parts Titanium White: 1 part D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.21 RAF05 - Extra Dark Sea Green | GU 2.9 Target: #54625A, Mixture: #54615A Carbon Black: 5 parts Permanent Green Light: 10 parts Diarylide Yellow: 3 parts Titanium White: 11 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.25 RAF06 - Grey Green | GU 3.2 Target: #758A70, Mixture: #758A70 Raw Umber: 9 parts Primary Cyan: 2 parts Permanent Green Light: 4 parts Diarylide Yellow: 2 parts Titanium White: 15 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.18 RAF07 - Medium Sea Grey | GU 3.0 Target: #889199, Mixture: #879199 Bone Black: 17 parts Titan Green Pale: 1 part Prussian Blue Hue: 1 part Titanium White: 28 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.33 RAF08 - Dark Sea Grey | GU 3.5 Target: #6C7179, Mixture: #6B7179 Carbon Black: 7 parts Titan Green Pale: 38 parts Dioxazine Purple: 1 part D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.13 RAF09 - Extra Dark Sea Grey | GU 4.4 Target: #5E636B, Mixture: #5F636A Carbon Black: 6 parts Titan Buff: 26 parts Quinacridone Violet: 1 part Titanium White: 1 part D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.24 RAF10 - Ocean Grey | GU 5.5 Target: #6B7478, Mixture: #6A7478 Bone Black: 12 parts Titan Green Pale: 8 parts Anthraquinone Blue: 1 part D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.25 RAF11 - Light Slate Grey | GU 3.0 Target: #697368, Mixture: #697368 Titan Green Pale: 3 parts Primary Cyan: 1 part Van Dyke Brown Hue: 2 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.20 RAF12 - Dark Slate Grey | GU 4.2 Target: #696B62, Mixture: #696B62 Carbon Black: 3 parts Burnt Sienna: 15 parts Permanent Green Light: 4 parts Diarylide Yellow: 2 parts Titanium White: 14 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.15 RAF13 - Sky Grey | GU 3.0 Target: #A6AAAA, Mixture: #A5AAAA Bone Black: 6 parts Titan Green Pale: 5 parts Titanium White: 18 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.32 RAF14 - Sky | GU 3.3 Target: #B4BCA3, Mixture: #B3BAA2 Bone Black: 3 parts Titan Green Pale: 20 parts Primary Yellow: 2 parts Titanium White: 11 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.29 RAF15 - Deep Sky | GU 4.8 Target: #3B5479, Mixture: #3C557A Phthalo Blue (Red Shade): 18 parts Phthalo Green (Yellow Shade): 5 parts Naphthol Red Medium: 6 parts Titanium White: 15 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.27 RAF16 - Sky Blue | GU 4.4 Target: #B6C3C8, Mixture: #B3C3C9 Raw Umber: 2 parts Prussian Blue Hue: 1 part Titanium White: 41 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 1.06 RAF17 - Azure Blue | GU 3.3 Target: #889EC7, Mixture: #879EC8 Yellow Ochre: 1 part Primary Cyan: 2 parts Prussian Blue Hue: 3 parts Quinacridone Magenta: 2 parts Titanium White: 38 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.21 RAF18 - Light Mediterranean Blue | GU 3.2 Target: #607390, Mixture: #607391 Carbon Black: 2 parts Prussian Blue Hue: 9 parts Quinacridone Magenta: 2 parts Titanium White: 25 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.22 RAF19 - Dark Mediterranean Blue | GU 2.7 Target: #445574, Mixture: #455573 Prussian Blue Hue: 7 parts Naphthol Red Light: 1 part Titanium White: 3 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.27 RAF20 - P.R.U. Blue | GU 2.9 Target: #546F7A, Mixture: #546E7A Bone Black: 18 parts Teal: 6 parts Prussian Blue Hue: 4 parts Titanium White: 7 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.28 RAF21 - Middle Stone | GU 3.1 Target: #A8884D, Mixture: #A8884C Bone Black: 3 parts Yellow Oxide: 19 parts Primary Yellow: 4 parts Transparent Red Iron Oxide: 1 part Titanium White: 2 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.22 RAF22 - Night | GU 2.2 Target: #3F3E3F, Mixture: #3F3E3F Carbon Black: 3 parts Raw Umber: 5 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.24 RAF23 - Yellow | GU 4.6 Target: #E9A530, Mixture: #E8A42E Red Oxide: 2 parts Cadmium Yellow Medium Hue: 28 parts Diarylide Yellow: 5 parts Titanium White: 8 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.34 RAF24 - Red | GU 2.7 Target: #8F4D40, Mixture: #8F4D41 Yellow Ochre: 12 parts Raw Umber: 3 parts Cadmium Red Medium Hue: 8 parts Diarylide Yellow: 2 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.13 RAF25 - Blue | GU 2.4 Target: #3F495B, Mixture: #3E485B Titan Buff: 1 part Payne's Gray: 8 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.28 RAF27 - Matt Red | GU 2.8 Target: #A7383C, Mixture: #A7373C Yellow Oxide: 1 part Naphthol Red Medium: 4 parts Pyrrole Red Light: 1 part D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.30 RAF28 - Matt Blue | GU 5.4 Target: #43527B, Mixture: #44527B Yellow Ochre: 4 parts Primary Cyan: 20 parts Quinacridone Magenta: 7 parts Titanium White: 5 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.26 RAF29 - Semi Matt Black | GU 5.0 Target: #3F3E3F, Mixture: #3F3E3F Carbon Black: 6 parts Raw Umber: 11 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.27 Liquitex Basic Fluids, using MASS Spoiler RAF01 - Light Earth | GU 4.0 Target: #AB8D68, Mixture: #AA8D67 Burnt Umber: 3 parts Cadmium Yellow Deep Hue: 2 parts Unbleached Titanium: 8 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.50 RAF02 - Dark Earth | GU 3.3 Target: #79654E, Mixture: #7A654E Mars Black: 4 parts Raw Sienna: 32 parts Titanium White: 7 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.39 RAF03 - Light Green | GU 2.9 Target: #666A58, Mixture: #666A57 Mars Black: 11 parts Cadmium Yellow Deep Hue: 17 parts Titanium White: 17 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.59 RAF04 - Dark Green | GU 2.6 Target: #57594D, Mixture: #58594E Transparent Mixing White: 2 parts Ivory Black: 5 parts Cadmium Yellow Medium Hue: 2 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.45 RAF05 - Extra Dark Sea Green | GU 2.9 Target: #54625A, Mixture: #546158 Phthalocyanine Green: 2 parts Ivory Black: 19 parts Cadmium Yellow Medium Hue: 4 parts Titanium White: 4 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.45 RAF06 - Grey Green | GU 3.2 Target: #758A70, Mixture: #758A6F Mars Black: 4 parts Phthalocyanine Green: 3 parts Cadmium Yellow Deep Hue: 8 parts Titanium White: 21 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.60 RAF07 - Medium Sea Grey | GU 3.0 Target: #889199, Mixture: #889299 Primary Blue: 1 part Alizarin Crimson Hue Permanent: 1 part Ivory Black: 17 parts Titanium White: 24 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.53 RAF08 - Dark Sea Grey | GU 3.5 Target: #6C7179, Mixture: #6C7178 Mars Black: 1 part Ivory Black: 5 parts Titanium White: 4 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.55 RAF09 - Extra Dark Sea Grey | GU 4.4 Target: #5E636B, Mixture: #5D636A Mars Black: 3 parts Burnt Umber: 2 parts Payne's Gray: 8 parts Titanium White: 6 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.39 RAF10 - Ocean Grey | GU 5.5 Target: #6B7478, Mixture: #6B7477 Mars Black: 6 parts Primary Yellow: 1 part Unbleached Titanium: 25 parts Payne's Gray: 8 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.58 RAF11 - Light Slate Grey | GU 3.0 Target: #697368, Mixture: #6A7368 Mars Black: 6 parts Phthalocyanine Green: 4 parts Raw Sienna: 12 parts Titanium White: 17 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.46 RAF12 - Dark Slate Grey | GU 4.2 Target: #696B62, Mixture: #686961 Cadmium Yellow Deep Hue: 1 part Transparent Mixing White: 8 parts Ivory Black: 9 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.53 RAF13 - Sky Grey | GU 3.0 Target: #A6AAAA, Mixture: #A6AAAB Mars Black: 1 part Ivory Black: 7 parts Unbleached Titanium: 9 parts Titanium White: 30 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.50 RAF14 - Sky | GU 3.3 Target: #B4BCA3, Mixture: #B3BBA2 Light Green Permanent: 2 parts Ivory Black: 3 parts Unbleached Titanium: 15 parts Titanium White: 13 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.44 RAF15 - Deep Sky | GU 4.8 Target: #3B5479, Mixture: #3B557C Primary Blue: 13 parts Raw Sienna: 1 part Quinacridone Magenta: 6 parts Titanium White: 3 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.59 RAF16 - Sky Blue | GU 4.4 Target: #B6C3C8, Mixture: #B6C4C8 Primary Blue: 1 part Alizarin Crimson Hue Permanent: 2 parts Unbleached Titanium: 9 parts Titanium White: 37 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.10 RAF17 - Azure Blue | GU 3.3 Target: #889EC7, Mixture: #889DC6 Mars Black: 1 part Primary Blue: 3 parts Dioxazine Purple: 3 parts Titanium White: 40 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.53 RAF18 - Light Mediterranean Blue | GU 3.2 Target: #607390, Mixture: #5F738F Mars Black: 4 parts Ultramarine Blue: 12 parts Titanium White: 15 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.58 RAF19 - Dark Mediterranean Blue | GU 2.7 Target: #445574, Mixture: #465573 Primary Blue: 10 parts Burnt Umber: 3 parts Quinacridone Magenta: 8 parts Titanium White: 4 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.45 RAF20 - P.R.U. Blue | GU 2.9 Target: #546F7A, Mixture: #556F79 Primary Blue: 2 parts Ivory Black: 9 parts Titanium White: 4 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.46 RAF21 - Middle Stone | GU 3.1 Target: #A8884D, Mixture: #A7894B Primary Blue: 1 part Cadmium Orange Hue: 11 parts Cadmium Yellow Medium Hue: 28 parts Titanium White: 8 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.17 RAF22 - Night | GU 2.2 Target: #3F3E3F, Mixture: #3F3E3F Mars Black: 7 parts Titanium White: 1 part D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.11 RAF23 - Yellow | GU 4.6 Target: #E9A530, Mixture: #E6A532 Burnt Sienna: 1 part Cadmium Yellow Medium Hue: 40 parts Unbleached Titanium: 2 parts Titanium White: 5 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.50 RAF24 - Red | GU 2.7 Target: #8F4D40, Mixture: #8C4E41 Ivory Black: 4 parts Naphthol Crimson: 7 parts Vivid Red Orange: 19 parts Titanium White: 2 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.60 RAF25 - Blue | GU 2.4 Target: #3F495B, Mixture: #404A5B Primary Blue: 16 parts Burnt Sienna: 1 part Naphthol Crimson: 10 parts Titanium White: 2 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.44 RAF27 - Matt Red | GU 2.8 Target: #A7383C, Mixture: #A6393E Raw Sienna: 2 parts Cadmium Yellow Light Hue: 3 parts Naphthol Crimson: 16 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.60 RAF28 - Matt Blue | GU 5.4 Target: #43527B, Mixture: #44527B Primary Blue: 12 parts Raw Sienna: 1 part Quinacridone Magenta: 11 parts Titanium White: 4 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.46 RAF29 - Semi Matt Black | GU 5.0 Target: #3F3E3F, Mixture: #3E3D3E Mars Black: 15 parts Titanium White: 2 parts D65 (daylight) DE00: 0.30 Tamiya Acrylics using VOLUME Spoiler RAF01 - Light Earth | GU 4.0 Target: #AB8D68, Mixture: #AB8D67 XF-3 Flat Yellow: 5 parts XF-9 Hull Red: 1 part XF-10 Flat Brown: 1 part XF-59 Desert Yellow: 32 parts XF-2 Flat White: 10 parts DE00: 0.31 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.23 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.45 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF02 - Dark Earth | GU 3.3 Target: #79654E, Mixture: #7A644E XF-3 Flat Yellow: 2 parts XF-7 Flat Red: 3 parts XF-27 Black Green: 1 part XF-49 Khaki: 6 parts DE00: 0.16 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.63 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 1.17 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF03 - Light Green | GU 2.9 Target: #666A58, Mixture: #666957 XF-1 Flat Black: 3 parts XF-4 Yellow Green: 6 parts XF-11 J.N. Green: 11 parts XF-59 Desert Yellow: 30 parts DE00: 0.24 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.63 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.30 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF04 - Dark Green | GU 2.6 Target: #57594D, Mixture: #57594E XF-1 Flat Black: 6 parts XF-49 Khaki: 19 parts XF-58 Olive Green: 13 parts DE00: 0.16 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.10 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.28 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF05 - Extra Dark Sea Green | GU 2.9 Target: #54625A, Mixture: #546159 XF-8 Flat Blue: 4 parts XF-11 J.N. Green: 20 parts XF-59 Desert Yellow: 13 parts XF-2 Flat White: 9 parts DE00: 0.24 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.66 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.40 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF06 - Grey Green | GU 3.2 Target: #758A70, Mixture: #76886F XF-2 Flat White: 4 parts XF-26 Deep Green: 2 parts XF-59 Desert Yellow: 1 part DE00: 0.57 in daylight (D65) DE00: 1.67 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 1.04 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF07 - Medium Sea Grey | GU 3.0 Target: #889199, Mixture: #889199 XF-18 Medium Blue: 3 parts XF-24 Dark Grey: 5 parts XF-2 Flat White: 25 parts DE00: 0.06 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.05 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.16 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF08 - Dark Sea Grey | GU 3.5 Target: #6C7179, Mixture: #6B7178 XF-7 Flat Red: 4 parts XF-17 Sea Blue: 9 parts XF-2 Flat White: 26 parts DE00: 0.19 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.26 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.27 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF09 - Extra Dark Sea Grey | GU 4.4 Target: #5E636B, Mixture: #5E636B XF-8 Flat Blue: 1 part XF-19 Sky Grey: 5 parts XF-24 Dark Grey: 18 parts DE00: 0.18 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.38 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.25 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF10 - Ocean Grey | GU 5.5 Target: #6B7478, Mixture: #6B7477 XF-18 Medium Blue: 2 parts XF-22 RLM Grey: 3 parts XF-53 Neutral Grey: 8 parts DE00: 0.21 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.19 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.17 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF11 - Light Slate Grey | GU 3.0 Target: #697368, Mixture: #697368 XF-4 Yellow Green: 3 parts XF-50 Field Blue: 4 parts XF-2 Flat White: 4 parts DE00: 0.21 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.61 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.95 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF12 - Dark Slate Grey | GU 4.2 Target: #696B62, Mixture: #696A61 XF-17 Sea Blue: 1 part XF-59 Desert Yellow: 4 parts DE00: 0.17 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.57 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.32 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF13 - Sky Grey | GU 3.0 Target: #A6AAAA, Mixture: #A6ABAA XF-17 Sea Blue: 1 part XF-19 Sky Grey: 7 parts XF-24 Dark Grey: 1 part XF-59 Desert Yellow: 2 parts XF-2 Flat White: 37 parts DE00: 0.24 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.20 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.20 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF14 - Sky | GU 3.3 Target: #B4BCA3, Mixture: #B4BBA2 XF-2 Flat White: 34 parts XF-4 Yellow Green: 3 parts XF-23 Light Blue: 10 parts XF-57 Buff: 3 parts DE00: 0.26 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.42 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.10 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF15 - Deep Sky | GU 4.8 Target: #3B5479, Mixture: #445579 XF-8 Flat Blue: 5 parts XF-21 Sky: 2 parts DE00: 2.53 in daylight (D65) DE00: 1.47 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 1.40 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF16 - Sky Blue | GU 4.4 Target: #B6C3C8, Mixture: #B7C4C9 XF-12 J.N. Grey: 1 part XF-18 Medium Blue: 1 part XF-2 Flat White: 25 parts DE00: 0.25 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.64 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.43 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF17 - Azure Blue | GU 3.3 Target: #889EC7, Mixture: #849FCA XF-8 Flat Blue: 1 part XF-2 Flat White: 12 parts DE00: 0.68 in daylight (D65) DE00: 1.66 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.90 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF18 - Light Mediterranean Blue | GU 3.2 Target: #607390, Mixture: #617591 XF-2 Flat White: 21 parts XF-8 Flat Blue: 7 parts XF-10 Flat Brown: 2 parts DE00: 0.41 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.79 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.82 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF19 - Dark Mediterranean Blue | GU 2.7 Target: #445574, Mixture: #455574 XF-8 Flat Blue: 31 parts XF-23 Light Blue: 10 parts XF-26 Deep Green: 4 parts XF-2 Flat White: 5 parts DE00: 0.21 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.33 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.51 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF20 - P.R.U. Blue | GU 2.9 Target: #546F7A, Mixture: #576F79 XF-8 Flat Blue: 5 parts XF-26 Deep Green: 4 parts XF-2 Flat White: 12 parts DE00: 0.83 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.77 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 1.00 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF21 - Middle Stone | GU 3.1 Target: #A8884D, Mixture: #A9894D XF-4 Yellow Green: 9 parts XF-7 Flat Red: 1 part DE00: 0.44 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.58 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 1.06 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF22 - Night | GU 2.2 Target: #3F3E3F, Mixture: #3F3E3F XF-1 Flat Black: 22 parts XF-7 Flat Red: 2 parts XF-2 Flat White: 1 part DE00: 0.10 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.16 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.12 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF23 - Yellow | GU 4.6 Target: #E9A530, Mixture: #E9A532 XF-3 Flat Yellow: 25 parts XF-7 Flat Red: 1 part XF-12 J.N. Grey: 1 part DE00: 0.22 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.62 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.72 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF24 - Red | GU 2.7 Target: #8F4D40, Mixture: #8D4E41 XF-3 Flat Yellow: 3 parts XF-4 Yellow Green: 7 parts XF-7 Flat Red: 25 parts XF-58 Olive Green: 2 parts DE00: 0.70 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.54 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.77 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF25 - Blue | GU 2.4 Target: #3F495B, Mixture: #3F495B XF-5 Flat Green: 4 parts XF-8 Flat Blue: 21 parts DE00: 0.14 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.38 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.54 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF27 - Matt Red | GU 2.8 Target: #A7383C, Mixture: #A93639 XF-7 Flat Red: 47 parts XF-19 Sky Grey: 1 part XF-2 Flat White: 2 parts DE00: 0.92 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.95 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 1.28 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF28 - Matt Blue | GU 5.4 Target: #43527B, Mixture: #44537B XF-8 Flat Blue: 30 parts XF-14 J.A. Grey: 1 part XF-23 Light Blue: 11 parts DE00: 0.22 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.59 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.55 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF29 - Semi Matt Black | GU 5.0 Target: #3F3E3F, Mixture: #3F3E3F XF-1 Flat Black: 4 parts XF-9 Hull Red: 1 part DE00: 0.15 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.16 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.31 in fluorescent light (F2) Tamiya Lacquers using VOLUME Spoiler RAF01 - Light Earth | GU 4.0 Target: #AB8D68, Mixture: #AB8B68 LP-83 Mixing Yellow: 2 parts LP-51 Pure Orange: 5 parts LP-34 Light Gray: 22 parts LP-57 Red Brown 2: 8 parts DE00: 0.30 in daylight (D65) DE00: 1.20 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 1.35 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF02 - Dark Earth | GU 3.3 Target: #79654E, Mixture: #7B644E LP-51 Pure Orange: 14 parts LP-25 Brown (JGSDF): 19 parts LP-58 NATO Brown: 2 parts LP-68 Clear Blue: 3 parts DE00: 0.48 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.77 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 1.49 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF03 - Light Green | GU 2.9 Target: #666A58, Mixture: #666958 LP-1 Black: 1 part LP-51 Pure Orange: 10 parts LP-68 Clear Blue: 7 parts LP-2 White: 10 parts DE00: 0.29 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.52 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.57 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF04 - Dark Green | GU 2.6 Target: #57594D, Mixture: #58594E LP-1 Black: 2 parts LP-51 Pure Orange: 9 parts LP-68 Clear Blue: 6 parts LP-2 White: 7 parts DE00: 0.30 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.37 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.28 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF05 - Extra Dark Sea Green | GU 2.9 Target: #54625A, Mixture: #55615A LP-1 Black: 1 part LP-51 Pure Orange: 4 parts LP-34 Light Gray: 5 parts LP-68 Clear Blue: 6 parts LP-2 White: 1 part DE00: 0.12 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.72 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.36 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF06 - Grey Green | GU 3.2 Target: #758A70, Mixture: #768871 LP-2 White: 17 parts LP-51 Pure Orange: 7 parts LP-57 Red Brown 2: 1 part LP-68 Clear Blue: 8 parts DE00: 0.63 in daylight (D65) DE00: 1.47 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 1.01 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF07 - Medium Sea Grey | GU 3.0 Target: #889199, Mixture: #899199 LP-1 Black: 1 part LP-82 Mixing Red: 1 part LP-34 Light Gray: 39 parts LP-68 Clear Blue: 3 parts DE00: 0.55 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.68 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.83 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF08 - Dark Sea Grey | GU 3.5 Target: #6C7179, Mixture: #6C7179 LP-1 Black: 3 parts LP-81 Mixing Blue: 1 part LP-82 Mixing Red: 1 part LP-2 White: 26 parts DE00: 0.22 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.26 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.25 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF09 - Extra Dark Sea Grey | GU 4.4 Target: #5E636B, Mixture: #5E646B LP-1 Black: 4 parts LP-82 Mixing Red: 1 part LP-36 Dark Ghost Gray: 24 parts LP-68 Clear Blue: 2 parts DE00: 0.35 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.43 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.27 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF10 - Ocean Grey | GU 5.5 Target: #6B7478, Mixture: #6B7478 LP-1 Black: 3 parts LP-34 Light Gray: 28 parts LP-68 Clear Blue: 3 parts DE00: 0.22 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.32 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.24 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF11 - Light Slate Grey | GU 3.0 Target: #697368, Mixture: #697367 LP-1 Black: 2 parts LP-81 Mixing Blue: 4 parts LP-51 Pure Orange: 11 parts LP-25 Brown (JGSDF): 2 parts LP-2 White: 27 parts DE00: 0.27 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.56 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.47 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF12 - Dark Slate Grey | GU 4.2 Target: #696B62, Mixture: #686A61 LP-1 Black: 2 parts LP-81 Mixing Blue: 1 part LP-51 Pure Orange: 5 parts LP-2 White: 14 parts DE00: 0.49 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.58 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.29 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF13 - Sky Grey | GU 3.0 Target: #A6AAAA, Mixture: #A6A9AA LP-1 Black: 1 part LP-34 Light Gray: 7 parts LP-2 White: 36 parts DE00: 1.29 in daylight (D65) DE00: 1.25 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 1.05 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF14 - Sky | GU 3.3 Target: #B4BCA3, Mixture: #B3BAA3 LP-51 Pure Orange: 1 part LP-57 Red Brown 2: 1 part LP-68 Clear Blue: 1 part LP-2 White: 20 parts DE00: 0.62 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.96 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.83 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF15 - Deep Sky | GU 4.8 Target: #3B5479, Mixture: #3C5579 LP-82 Mixing Red: 2 parts LP-25 Brown (JGSDF): 1 part LP-68 Clear Blue: 16 parts LP-2 White: 2 parts DE00: 0.30 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.88 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.42 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF16 - Sky Blue | GU 4.4 Target: #B6C3C8, Mixture: #B7C4C9 LP-34 Light Gray: 4 parts LP-36 Dark Ghost Gray: 8 parts LP-2 White: 27 parts DE00: 0.47 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.48 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.44 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF17 - Azure Blue | GU 3.3 Target: #889EC7, Mixture: #8D9FC5 LP-82 Mixing Red: 2 parts LP-34 Light Gray: 3 parts LP-68 Clear Blue: 6 parts LP-2 White: 33 parts DE00: 1.25 in daylight (D65) DE00: 1.10 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 1.18 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF18 - Light Mediterranean Blue | GU 3.2 Target: #607390, Mixture: #627590 LP-82 Mixing Red: 2 parts LP-58 NATO Brown: 2 parts LP-68 Clear Blue: 8 parts LP-2 White: 11 parts DE00: 0.53 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.78 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.99 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF19 - Dark Mediterranean Blue | GU 2.7 Target: #445574, Mixture: #445674 LP-82 Mixing Red: 5 parts LP-25 Brown (JGSDF): 3 parts LP-34 Light Gray: 5 parts LP-68 Clear Blue: 25 parts DE00: 0.36 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.83 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.39 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF20 - P.R.U. Blue | GU 2.9 Target: #546F7A, Mixture: #546E7A LP-82 Mixing Red: 2 parts LP-25 Brown (JGSDF): 8 parts LP-68 Clear Blue: 13 parts LP-2 White: 8 parts DE00: 0.29 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.23 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.86 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF21 - Middle Stone | GU 3.1 Target: #A8884D, Mixture: #A9874E LP-83 Mixing Yellow: 12 parts LP-51 Pure Orange: 5 parts LP-36 Dark Ghost Gray: 7 parts DE00: 0.32 in daylight (D65) DE00: 1.37 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 1.66 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF22 - Night | GU 2.2 Target: #3F3E3F, Mixture: #3F3F3F LP-1 Black: 9 parts LP-58 NATO Brown: 7 parts LP-2 White: 6 parts DE00: 0.33 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.28 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.27 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF23 - Yellow | GU 4.6 Target: #E9A530, Mixture: #EAA52C LP-83 Mixing Yellow: 44 parts LP-51 Pure Orange: 3 parts LP-34 Light Gray: 4 parts DE00: 0.70 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.40 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 1.06 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF24 - Red | GU 2.7 Target: #8F4D40, Mixture: #8E4C40 LP-82 Mixing Red: 4 parts LP-51 Pure Orange: 9 parts LP-57 Red Brown 2: 5 parts DE00: 0.28 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.27 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.39 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF25 - Blue | GU 2.4 Target: #3F495B, Mixture: #3F495B LP-82 Mixing Red: 5 parts LP-57 Red Brown 2: 3 parts LP-68 Clear Blue: 23 parts LP-2 White: 1 part DE00: 0.35 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.52 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.59 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF27 - Matt Red | GU 2.8 Target: #A7383C, Mixture: #AA3742 LP-82 Mixing Red: 29 parts LP-51 Pure Orange: 8 parts LP-57 Red Brown 2: 1 part DE00: 2.18 in daylight (D65) DE00: 1.75 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 2.85 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF28 - Matt Blue | GU 5.4 Target: #43527B, Mixture: #41527B LP-82 Mixing Red: 2 parts LP-36 Dark Ghost Gray: 2 parts LP-68 Clear Blue: 11 parts DE00: 0.22 in daylight (D65) DE00: 1.22 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.45 in fluorescent light (F2) RAF29 - Semi Matt Black | GU 5.0 Target: #3F3E3F, Mixture: #3F3E3E LP-1 Black: 21 parts LP-82 Mixing Red: 3 parts LP-51 Pure Orange: 7 parts LP-25 Brown (JGSDF): 5 parts LP-2 White: 15 parts DE00: 0.38 in daylight (D65) DE00: 0.43 in incandescent light (A) DE00: 0.50 in fluorescent light (F2) Edited January 9 by Casey Removed Quinacridone/Nickel Azo Gold paint from Golden Fluid Acrylics range since it is not obtainable anymore 11 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ngantek Posted April 15, 2022 Share Posted April 15, 2022 This is a wonderful resource, thank you so much for posting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted April 16, 2022 Share Posted April 16, 2022 Again, I'm hugely impressed by your efforts here Casey, real world methods to achieve useable results. 👍 Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Space Ranger Posted April 17, 2022 Share Posted April 17, 2022 On 4/15/2022 at 5:07 PM, Ngantek said: This is a wonderful resource, thank you so much for posting! Yes, indeed. This thread and its images should be saved somehow so it doesn't go away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steben Posted April 21, 2022 Share Posted April 21, 2022 Wooooooow. Good job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ngantek Posted April 23, 2022 Share Posted April 23, 2022 Just interested, roughly what kind of algorithm do you use to get these mixes? Presumably with, say, tamiya 1 to 14, there's a wide range of colour overlap. How would it differ just using, say, just red, blue, yellow, black and white? I have no knowledge whatsoever on methodology or colour classification. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steben Posted April 23, 2022 Share Posted April 23, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, Ngantek said: Just interested, roughly what kind of algorithm do you use to get these mixes? Presumably with, say, tamiya 1 to 14, there's a wide range of colour overlap. How would it differ just using, say, just red, blue, yellow, black and white? I have no knowledge whatsoever on methodology or colour classification. Not speaking in name of the topic starter, but with the right basic colours, it is possible. But mostly you get faster to your goal when using colours more suitable to "get there". Edited April 23, 2022 by Steben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Posted April 23, 2022 Author Share Posted April 23, 2022 (edited) 7 hours ago, Ngantek said: Just interested, roughly what kind of algorithm do you use to get these mixes? Presumably with, say, tamiya 1 to 14, there's a wide range of colour overlap. How would it differ just using, say, just red, blue, yellow, black and white? I have no knowledge whatsoever on methodology or colour classification. Be very, very careful when you are asking me about math because you may just get an answer I am using Kubelka Munk theory (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kubelka-Munk_theory) to predict how the pigment and their mixtures react to the light. I found this video to have a good explanation of the underlying theory and how it can be used in practice to solve the (so far mostly unsolved) problem of why the digital painting does not work like real one. Edited April 23, 2022 by Casey 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Posted April 23, 2022 Author Share Posted April 23, 2022 (edited) 6 hours ago, Steben said: Not speaking in name of the topic starter, but with the right basic colours, it is possible. But mostly you get faster to your goal when using colours more suitable to "get there". It is possible if I only used 3 colors and white. Black can be mixed too. In theory, all that is needed is to pick 4 pigments that cover the largest possible color space, lets say Hansa Yellow, Phthalo Blue, Quinacridone Magenta and Titanium White. The problem is that recipes that use those colors will depend on very precise measurements of pigments and even small error will be very noticeable, especially in the colors in the middle of the color space - which is exactly where most of the aviation modeller color range sits. It is more practical to use multiple pigments to have easy and more error resilient recipes. Fun fact: Your home printer uses very precise measurements of Hansa Yellow, Phthalo Blue and Quinacridone Magenta (further called: Yellow, Cyan and Magenta). Printer paper is quite often covered in Titanium White. And black is either mixed or supplied additionally to battle the difficulties of practical color mixing. I wonder why Edited April 23, 2022 by Casey 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steben Posted April 23, 2022 Share Posted April 23, 2022 Correct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted April 23, 2022 Share Posted April 23, 2022 9 hours ago, Ngantek said: How would it differ just using, say, just red, blue, yellow, black and white? as the other answers suggest, theoretically yes. Basic thing taught in primary school. And I remember being a very frustrated 8 year old trying to make 'black' with humbrol red, yellow and dark blue... BUT, you just don't really get pure pigments, and even printer struggle, which is why the better ones use a hex colour system. A better idea can be got from looking at an artist paint mix guide , watercolour use the white of the paper, so here's oil paint basics Titanium White [note this is a blue white] Cadmium Lemon or Cadmium Yellow Light (cool yellow) Cadmium Red Light (warm red) Alizarin Crimson (cool red) Ultramarine Blue (violet blue) Dioxazine Purple (violet) Cerulean Blue or Phthalo Blue (green blue, dark) Viridian Green (cool green, middle value) Black Burnt Umber (warm dark brown) from https://www.virtualartacademy.com/oil-paints-for-beginners/ The Tamiya basic Red, Yellow and Blue are pigments mixes. The sub tints caused by these make things muddy.... I remember one trying to explain the the daughters mother who like wacky hair colours, in this case green, that the reason she was getting a browny green was that the blue was a purple blue and the yellow was a lemony (ie greeny) and the colour mix was correct, the green and red aspect making brown.... though she kept telling me that blue and yellow make green so why didn't it work .... I think after the third explanation of the same basic point I was ended up getting a bit snappy... Anyway, it's also of note that the basic colours referred to are the ones used in 4 colour printing, (which is what most colur printing uses, know as CMYK, Cyan, yellow Magenta and Black, the K stand for key BTW as it's oten used as the key colour) and the rise of the digital screen transmitted as opposed to reflected light) is another factors. As regards camouflage paint and the real world of painting lots and lots of large bits of machinery, it required a VAST amount of paint, @Mike Starmer says that the British army in WW2 needed 8,000 tons of paint a year! The amount needed for the aircraft industries was probably a lot more. I keep quoting this as it was the most useful bit of information I have read about actual military paint, courtesy of @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies as modellers we are used to tiny little pots, not dealing with having to make thousands of gallons, where pigments cost and availability become VERY important I'm going to point out some facts about real-life paint manufacture and either the reader will understand and "get it" or will not understand and are in no position to contradict me. 1) Usually camouflage colours are fairly low saturation colours because these blend in better with nature. They're seldom bright and bold. Low saturation colours are normally manufactured by adding coloured pigments to a base made from inexpensive white or white and black pigments. 2) Colour pigments are expensive. The expense varies depending on the specific pigment, but they're expensive. 3) The only way to over-saturate a colour so much is to substantially over-dose your base with the expensive colour pigments. I'm not talking about a few percent more or less - that causes minor differences which you only confirm the presence of with one swatch adjacent to another - I'm talking more in the order of a double dose to get something you obviously look at and think "woah". 4) In the case of colours like dark olive, these are mostly white, black and ochre (which is relatively inexpensive for a colour pigment) sometimes further tinted with a bit of red or green (which are often very expensive). 5) There can certainly be variances in a manufactured paint, but these tend to be greatly overstated, i.e. used as a ready made excuse for all sorts of mistakes. Ultimately, the only way a manufactured paint can end up so oversaturated is to have dumped in a vast amount of the expensive pigments, if not adding in new additional pigments in large quantities not expected in the recipe. Frankly, it's difficult to see how any manufactured paint could end up so drastically off target, particularly in the over-saturated sense, by any business that wasn't actively trying to bankrupt itself by roasting through obscene quantities of pigments like chrome green which were already expensive at the start of the war and in particularly short supply during. 6) I'd venture that most of the "there was a war on, you know" type apologists for such spectacular errors probably don't have any actual experience of what is and isn't possible when mixing different proportions of 2,3 or 4 pigments when 2 of those are usually black and white just to make your base to tint. You simply cannot end up with a Humbrol 30-esque bluish green using only the ingredients to make olive - i.e. you'd actually have to sabotage it by introducing if not blue then an obviously bluish green. Same goes for that bright green Spitfire above - you can't achieve that with black, white, ochre and a touch of red - you'd need to fire in a lot of bright green pigment in to get that saturated on an overly-light base. It would be more tan-like just using the basic olive green ingredients which only turns obviously olive when tinted enough with black. Put another way, with a fixed number of pigments in various ratios you WILL end up somewhere within a certain envelope, and usually when colours like this bright green are discussed it's because it's well outside that envelope. The point of all the above? In essence it's harder to make a credible explanation for how such a colour might have been arrived at in a real-life paint manufacturing environment than it is to demonstrate that someone would have had to go to a lot of trouble to get it so far wrong. That is harder to rationalise than just getting it closer to correct. from https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235078859-accuracy-of-ammo-by-mig-jiménez-raf-wwii-colours/page/3/#elControls_4045174_menu which is an interesting thread in itself. Note the shortage of green pigments in Britain in early WW2 forced the army and navy to stop using green pigments, these being reserved for aircraft, and example, the army used Khaki Green G3 until 1942 when they had to switch to SCC2 brown which was made using an aluminium by product pigment. 3 hours ago, Casey said: Be very, very careful when you are asking me about math because you may just get an answer I am using Kubelka Munk theory (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kubelka-Munk_theory) to predict how the pigment and their mixtures react to the light. very interesting. I don't think anyone would mind the math, but might just be baffled... though be surprised as we have some very knowledgeable members.. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Posted April 23, 2022 Author Share Posted April 23, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, Troy Smith said: Usually camouflage colours are fairly low saturation colours because these blend in better with nature. They're seldom bright and bold. Low saturation colours are normally manufactured by adding coloured pigments to a base made from inexpensive white or white and black pigments. I am actually making making use of that fact - I've prioritized pigments based on their cost so my math first tries to achieve the result with an inexpensive black, white and ochre-class pigments, then proceeds with more expensive ones. This is done only for Golden Fluid calculations since I could assign the 'cost' range based on known pigment composition, Tamiya does not give me any clue about what is in the pot... 1 hour ago, Troy Smith said: I don't think anyone would mind the math, but might just be baffled... though be surprised as we have some very knowledgeable members.. I'll keep it in mind. I'll probably make a separate thread for that. One thing at a time. My current hobby work pile is: Characterization of paints to use for mixing: Golden Fluid Acrylics - done Tamiya - 16 paints done Color reproduction: British Aviation Colours of World War Two - this thread RLM Merrick and Hitchcock - I upated it with improved mixes using the assumption above Humbrol colors reproduction - I foolishly placed measurements and mixes on separate threads. I will probably need to make one thread out of those once I finish with all the Humbrol paints I could find. I am very close to that goal. Official United States Aircraft Colors 1908-1993 Camouflage & Markings of Imperial Japanese Navy Bombers in WWII FS595 - I've (partially as a joke) shared tamiya recipes for those on one thread, but I am working on full set RAL BS 381C:1996 Maybe I should make a vote somewhere? Day has only 24hours for me.... that stubborn rounded Erf spinning all the time... Edited April 23, 2022 by Casey 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted April 24, 2022 Share Posted April 24, 2022 51 minutes ago, Casey said: Tamiya does not give me any clue about what is in the pot... I have seen mention of what in the pot, possibly taken from safety data sheets? If I remember more on this I'll add it in. maybe something done by Nick Millman, he no longer posts here, but you can find him on the aviation of Japan blog, and I think you have a lot of common ground. Cheers T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ngantek Posted May 11, 2022 Share Posted May 11, 2022 Hi, I'm bumping this with a request that it be pinned please! Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted May 11, 2022 Share Posted May 11, 2022 On 15/04/2022 at 19:14, Casey said: RAF002 - Dark Earth - Flat Suggested using total of 10 parts (DE00: 0.34) XF-4 - Yellow Green: 4 XF-10 - Flat Brown: 5 XF-12 - J.N. Grey: 1 I finally got some of these paint colours. Dark Earth has really bugged me, so this is one I tried first. The above mix gives a red hued brown, even under artificial light this is nothing like Dark Earth. The closest on the chart is Red, it's a lot browner, but still very red, the mix reminds me of the red-brown used on Japanese propellers. Now, I did mention that I found Tamiya to be inconsistent between batches in colours I have, so that may play a part. FWIW, XF-4:2/ XF-10:1/XF-62(Olive Drab):1 looks promising avenue, but will have to check in daylight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Posted May 11, 2022 Author Share Posted May 11, 2022 35 minutes ago, Troy Smith said: I finally got some of these paint colours. Dark Earth has really bugged me, so this is one I tried first. The above mix gives a red hued brown, even under artificial light this is nothing like Dark Earth. The closest on the chart is Red, it's a lot browner, but still very red, the mix reminds me of the red-brown used on Japanese propellers. Now, I did mention that I found Tamiya to be inconsistent between batches in colours I have, so that may play a part. FWIW, XF-4:2/ XF-10:1/XF-62(Olive Drab):1 looks promising avenue, but will have to check in daylight. Ok, let me mix my batch and let's see what it goes into. If Tamiya is inconsistent I may need to skip doing the Tamiya math... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Posted May 12, 2022 Author Share Posted May 12, 2022 I did whisked the color, and it looks tiny bit different but not that much: BUT the result paint pair is very metameric (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metamerism_(color)) - you can see it on the spectrum (read: it is a match in certain light conditions only. In my case, D65 - full day). Normally I avoid it by using single pigments to match the curve, but Tamiya has mixes by itself, and does not leave me with much choices there... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted May 12, 2022 Share Posted May 12, 2022 14 hours ago, Casey said: and it looks tiny bit different but not that much: Left RAF museum chip, right Tamiya mix XF-4 - Yellow Green: 4, XF-10 - Flat Brown: 5, XF-12 - J.N. Grey: 1. Direct sun. 50620161 by losethekibble, on Flickr The mix is very red under any light, direct sun, indirect daylight, artificial light which are LED bulb. I will try some more of the mixes, If you want I can send brush out of the Tamiya base paint used, to see if this is down to poor Tamiya batch matching. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steben Posted May 12, 2022 Share Posted May 12, 2022 Still in progress...... These are Revell 86, 88 and 84 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Posted May 12, 2022 Author Share Posted May 12, 2022 This indeed looks too red. And @Steben, I cant see any picture there... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steben Posted May 12, 2022 Share Posted May 12, 2022 13 minutes ago, Casey said: This indeed looks too red. And @Steben, I cant see any picture there... https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=276316014284271&set=pb.100057176242792.-2207520000..&type=3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Posted May 12, 2022 Author Share Posted May 12, 2022 (edited) Now, some math This is the (probably?) the best possible match using first 16 Tamiya paints without going to crazy with paint ratios. Here is what my math returned for such Tamiya mix (you can compare it to the real spectrophotometer results a few posts above) This mixture match is metameric match. I would conclude it is probably impractical to match Dark Earth using only the first 16 Tamiya paints. To compare, I tried same target crazy ratios. It is bit closer but it is still metameric. Real Dark Earth seems to be best matched with mixture of black, sienna and titanium dioxide. Considering they were the cheapest pigments available. Here is an example mix using only those with relatively small ratios. My Golden mix also adds yellow to further fit the book paint sample curve better, but I am not so sure if it was really used in practice. Edited May 13, 2022 by Casey 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ngantek Posted May 12, 2022 Share Posted May 12, 2022 Would it be really annoying (or even worthwhile) to try some of the more difficult mixes by maybe starting with an extra colour most adjacent to the final match. So xf52 for dark earth say. So each one would the 'closest match' colour with the algorithm matching using 1 to 14? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted May 12, 2022 Share Posted May 12, 2022 2 minutes ago, Ngantek said: So xf52 for dark earth say. I have tried numerous (and I mean 50 + mixes) for Dark Earth. Some have got close, XF-52 is no use, it's got far too much white in it. This is a common problem with Tamiya, they are already reasonably complex pigment mixes. In the case of XF-52, you can't get rid of the white, meaning any mix is too washed out. Some of the best results were with a mix XF-49 khaki, XF-62 olive drab and XF-64 red brown, but, again, the khaki has too much white I'm trying now using XF-4 yellow green to replace XF-49 khaki. I got some interesting results using black, yellow red with a drop of white. I suspect the real pigments are the real paint is black, white and yellow ochre, (the black and ochre gives the greeness) and a little red brown (sienna) What would really be good is a set of tamiya paints using single pigments.... @Casey The Dark Green Tamiya mix looks good though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Posted May 12, 2022 Author Share Posted May 12, 2022 8 minutes ago, Troy Smith said: What would really be good is a set of tamiya paints using single pigments... So far I found two. Carbon Black and Titanium White... 8 minutes ago, Troy Smith said: I suspect the real pigments are the real paint is black, white and yellow ochre, (the black and ochre gives the greeness) and a little red brown (sienna) I can confirm it from my math simulations above. Burnt sienna and raw sienna are similar family to yellow ochre, here is comparison. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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