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F-104G HAF (Monogram 1/48)


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Hello!

 

This kit is lying around for quite some years, I don't want to throw it into trash (since there are Hasegawa and Kinetic now) so it's time to make this kit as simple as possible. At the moment, I'm engraving panel lines and upper surfaces are 90% complete. Few mistakes to correct and a few new panels to add. Some parts will be from Hasegawa, like an ejection seat GQ-7A - Some of Turkish Starfighters had that kind of seat, engine nozzle and landing gear. A friend of mine gave me Eduard PE parts for cockpit so that will be used too.

 

Next update will probably be after lower surfaces are completed.

 

Cheers! 

Nenad

 

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Edited by LanceR21
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Thanks guys!

 

Small update - lower surfaces are engraved 90% - few panels to add after I assemble everything together. Also because gun bay door is really bad and it doesn't fit properly so a lot of sanding is to be expected... 

 

Cheers,

Nenad

 

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  • 1 year later...

Thanks! But to be honest, it's not worth it considering new kits on the market. And old but great Hasegawa... this is not bad to stay "in shape" when it comes to scratch building.

 

Small update - basic cockpit work (oil wash, drybrush, matt coating). Before final assembly, I'll add gloss varnish on instruments.

 

Cheers!
 

GridArt_20230514_020826696

 

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  • LanceR21 changed the title to F-104G HAF (Monogram 1/48)

A suggestion, don't fill in that wedge shaped gap at the bottom of the rudder, it's supposed to be there. It was left so that heat expansion of the tail cone from the afterburner wouldn't jam the rudder!

 

 

 

 

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6 hours ago, Tail-Dragon said:

A suggestion, don't fill in that wedge shaped gap at the bottom of the rudder, it's supposed to be there. It was left so that heat expansion of the tail cone from the afterburner wouldn't jam the rudder!

 

 

 

 

f-104d_022_of_107.jpg

Edited by SouthViper
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Not sure if these will help shed light on the proper tail gap discussion, but here are a few shots I've selected (limited to the tail sections) from the 8 different Starfighters I've photographed at various museums.

 

 

F-104G 683-9142

Evergreen Aviation Museum

 

F-104G-NASA-Evergreen-2015-11-22-5734.jp

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F-104G-NASA-Evergreen-2015-11-22-5737.jp

 

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

 

F-14D 57-1323
Pima Air Museum

 

F-104D-Starfighter-Pima-03-23-17-9247.jp

 

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

 

F-104C 56-914
NMoUSAF

 

F-104C-Starfighter-NMoUSAF-2018-05-17-16

 

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

 

F-104C 56-0934
Museum of Flight

 

F-104-MoF-2017-01-14-6828.jpg

 

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

 

F-104 tail section
Tillamook Air Museum

 

F-104-Tail-Tillamook-2021-11-19-1607.jpg

 

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I like the work to date, very neat and tidy, note that you must fill the rivets on the flying surface's from Hasegawa, they don't exsist, all rivets were filled with putty and smoothed over. The monogram kit when it was release was considered the best in 1/48, far better than the original Revell and ESCI kits which had their issues. Of note when I built the flying canary by monogram I had to add a strip of plastic at the base of the tail section to widen the cross section at the joint to the main fuselage, it then required less filler to make a good joint. I must admit having rescribed a Revell SR71 I admire your determination to complete the job. As you say all of us have Hasegawa and Kinetic starfighters, but even those have faults and at a cost of twice the price.

 

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Thank you guys!

 

Rudder gap will be added as a panel line, a deep one. Or I'll just make the gap with fine saw, like on the real aircraft.

 

When it comes to removing rivets from control surfaces - I'll think about that. Looking at real pictures, there are some rivets on real control surfaces. Not like on the Hasegawa parts but some are there...

 

Cheers,

Nenad

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  • 2 weeks later...

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