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Tamiya 1:48 SUPERMARINE SPITFIRE Mk. Vb


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Nice save on the canopy, and progressing well!!

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Looks wonderful and great to see the primer on , what a shame about the rear canopy part, but as Roger said, great save on this part.

Great work 

Chris

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It's looking great, everything is very neat and has come together beautifully. Good save on the canopy! I too have this funny fascination with prodding things to see how strong they are and then being outraged when they break. The undercarriage on a recent 1/144 build has had to be repaired numerous times, each time provoked entirely unnecessarily when I just couldn't leave well enough alone. The fix is pretty good and I'd be amazed if you noticed it under the open hood. It's always surprising to me how at-the-time seemingly huge errors can become relatively unnoticeable after the event. I think the reality is that we generally don't inspect completed builds with the same intensity with which we build them.

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On 07/05/2022 at 09:43, Dunny said:

Nice save on the canopy, and progressing well!!

 

Thanks Dunny

On 07/05/2022 at 09:52, bigbadbadge said:

Looks wonderful and great to see the primer on , what a shame about the rear canopy part, but as Roger said, great save on this part.

Great work 

Chris

Thanks Chris

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On 09/05/2022 at 14:52, Ngantek said:

The undercarriage on a recent 1/144 build has had to be repaired numerous times, each time provoked entirely unnecessarily when I just couldn't leave well enough alone.

Thanks Ngantek,

 

Yes, its a curious thing the human nature of "just to see what happens" 😬

 

Marvellous little scale 1:144.

 

What model was that you had the issue with?

 

I recently came across this today at my local shop and had to buy it at only £3.50!!

 

IMG_6592

 

Ill have a build at it at some point.....

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Today I managed to have a reasonable time on the build.....

 

After the primer had dried, I decided to have a go at the shading effect that I had seen on you tube...

It looked good and the idea was reasonable, I thought... But after completing the effect, the outcome was not as good as the effort submitted. Maybe I put to many layers on after the stippling  .....

 

IMG_6559

 

IMG_6576

 

IMG_6560

 

IMG_6572

 

IMG_6571

 

IMG_6575

 

Another effect I wanted to try was by spraying with silver at areas that would have been worn away by the pilot and maintenance crew along with numerous chipping that occurred whilst in active duty.

I applied liquid mask at areas that this wear could have happened

 

IMG_6581

 

IMG_6582

 

IMG_6583

 

 

I then sprayed with Ocean grey....

 

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And did a little on the underside also...

 

IMG_6586

 

I finished the night by adding effect to the prop....

 

IMG_6591

 

Next is an attempt at the camouflage, but not tonight, eyes are beady and tired.

 

Thanks for looking 👍

 

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1 hour ago, PlasticUtopia said:

 

I recently came across this today at my local shop and had to buy it at only £3.50!!

It's a late 60 or early 70's era kit.... 

1973

https://www.scalemates.com/kits/revell-04932-p-40e-warhawk--178030

weirdly enough the current boxing shows a P-40B, the kit AFAIK is a P40E.  

 

38 minutes ago, PlasticUtopia said:

I finished the night by adding effect to the prop....

52065271970_d3edf1f0e4_b.jpg

Repaint it.   Classic example of not looking at a reference image. 

 

It's wrong,  for two reasons.

This is a Rotol prop.

A Rotol blades are a compressed wood composite.  At most, they may show some chipping from the leading edge sheathing.

example, note the leading edge in the case was brass, which was there to protect the leading edge

3690539310_9442b4a3b7_b.jpgSpitfire XIVE by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

These blades varied in composition of covering and wood, the coloured dots on the blades base tell you who made them and what they are made of.  I can find you a list if you want....

 

When there is wear and tear to a  blade is happens on the back, not the front. a little leading edge chipping,  in the case of metal blades it scour the paint off 

example, USAAF Spitfire VIII in Med, paint off the brass, at the tip/mid, but not the root,  fabric doped parts some airflow scuffs...

i5Qko3W.jpg

 

 

 here's one I did earlier on this, note the Corsair,  same plane, front look fin, back is mostly bare metal,  note this only occurs in abrasive dust environments.

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235108742-hawker-hurricane-mk-i-tropical-73-squadron-north-africa-1942/#elControls_4375766_menu

 

If you want to add a bit if depth, try drybrusing lightly some mid grey in the airflow direction.   

Shuttleworth Sea Hurricane, from a grass strip, modern Rotol type blades. Note the small chips out of the yellow tips

Sea%20Hurricane-002.JPG

 

bits of grass and gunk

Sea%20Hurricane-004.JPG

 

from 

 

which is a really good walkround, as while a warbird, it's carefully cared for but used,  very good for getting a feel of the airframe.

 

38 minutes ago, PlasticUtopia said:

And did a little on the underside also...

 

IMG_6586

 

did you do the underside in Sky [XF-21]  or is that just odd lighting? If it is XF-21 it should be XF-83 instead....

 

HTH

PS

11119962003_36af7b3577_b.jpgEngine overhaul   c1943. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

6293844837_23203a9ec5_b.jpgSpitfire Mk.Vb at North Weald. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

2526702409_189936dd7e_b.jpgSpitfire Mk.Vb.................SAAF by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

5522297264_d26b806522_b.jpgRefuelling a Spitfire. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

2526700539_8cf3761b3f_b.jpgSpitfire by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

2527522690_8dd6b585b4_b.jpgSeafire by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

a few chips, some oil stains (which will be cleaned off)  you might want to try some soft pencil graphite brushed on, 

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@PlasticUtopia, it is great to see your progress; this kit brings back good memories. And you got an H&S Infinity on its way! You'll need it for that P-40 🙂. I've always thought WW2 fighters end up too small in 1:144; I like them in 1:48. 

 

@Troy Smith is right about the propeller wear, and the underside colour should be Medium Sea Grey, not Sky. Judging from the edges of the radiators and the fact the pre-shading is not showing through, I think you are spraying the paint too thick. Try diluting it more, dial down the pressure and go lightly. You'll see a much better, finer, coverage. You'll need a fine dilution if you are going to spray with a 0.15 mm nozzle.

 

Cheers,

Wlad

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7 hours ago, Troy Smith said:

Repaint it.   Classic example of not looking at a reference image. 

 

It's wrong,  for two reasons.

This is a Rotol prop.

A Rotol blades are a compressed wood composite.  At most, they may show some chipping from the leading edge sheathing.

example, note the leading edge in the case was brass, which was there to protect the leading edge

OK, Duly noted I will give it a lick again and spray it the correct way. Thanks for pointing that out

 

7 hours ago, Troy Smith said:

did you do the underside in Sky [XF-21]  or is that just odd lighting? If it is XF-21 it should be XF-83 instead....

 

HTH

I am  afraid I did....I will also correct.

 

Marvellous reference pictures you posted

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13 hours ago, Troy Smith said:

It's wrong,  for two reasons.

This is a Rotol prop.

Will the colour of the spinner be the XF 83 as well I take it then? I have looked at the reference pictures but all the colours look the same to me, you see, I am colour blind. Which is a bit unfortunate in this lovely pastime

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Looking great, some really cool techniques you're trying out. I'm looking forward to seeing how they turn out! I think it's helpful to consider both aspects of how things are turning out; that is both in terms of modelling techniques as well as historical accuracy. Thanks to @Troy Smith for the latter, those photos are very useful, and I will be referring back to them.

 

As to the former, I'm also interested to mess around with various things like this. It looks like you're getting the hang of the preshading, although I doubt it will survive the next layer.. perhaps primer, silver, masking fluid, preshade, top colour would give you more control (i.e keeping the preshade right before the final colour coat)? I don't know of course just my guess having seen your results. I also wonder, with 2 or 3 tone camouflages, what the best method for 'marbled' effect is, since it will be harder to control the effect for different paints and through different layer thicknesses; perhaps a post shade is more reliable in this instance? (again I'm kinda putting it out there as a question for people who have experience with it). But yeah I suspect thinner mix is the way with the preshade, adding many light misted coats slowly, each near transparent, to bring the effect down until you're happy.

 

 

2 hours ago, PlasticUtopia said:

I have looked at the reference pictures but all the colours look the same to me, you see, I am colour blind. Which is a bit unfortunate in this lovely pastime

Ahh yes, I'm in the same boat as you on this one; so 'looks right' to me could be any range of entirely incorrect colours. Particularly helpful since military schemes tend to circle the green-brown range, which is exactly what I can't see properly.

 

I believe all the schemes called out in that kit are standard RAF day fighter scheme, which is to say RAF dark green/ ocean grey on the uppers, and medium sea grey below. The spinner seems to be XF21 which is sky ('duck egg green') although XF-21 itself is, imo, a little dark. Same colour as the spinner (and underside) on that nice early mark seafire photo. Of course there are no end of other specific schemes for Vbs that you could use instead. If you've moved over to Tamiya, there are specific mixes for XF paints that tamiya call out, but lots of other mixes exists. I'm afraid I've not got round to doing such a scheme yet, but personally was planning to try these mixes. I should of course point out the obvious that it being your model, there's no reason not to paint something not historically accurate if you prefer the look. 

 

16 hours ago, PlasticUtopia said:

Marvellous little scale 1:144.

 

What model was that you had the issue with?

 

I recently came across this today at my local shop and had to buy it at only £3.50!!

yes I have a soft spot for 144, since it was my 'airplanes hanging from the ceiling' scale when I was a kid. Academy minicraft used to do lots, and I was always on the lookout for them. As for recently, I started off getting a reasonable number on the mistaken belief that being half the size, they might take half the time to make. The reality is of course that you have to still go through all the same processes and some of the fiddlier jobs like masking can actually take longer. But yeah being (theoretically) cheaper and of course the fact that you can get a nice outline without taking up much space is appealing. I've been building a beaufighter and a few FW190D/Ta152 thingys in the background which are generally getting ignored. It'll be nice to compare the p40s with what you've learned since the 1/72 one.

 

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58 minutes ago, PlasticUtopia said:

Will the colour of the spinner be the XF 83 as well I take it then?

Spinner and fuselage band were Sky.    It was a standard Day Fighter Scheme marking

I linked this before,  https://boxartden.com/reference/gallery/index.php/Camouflage-Markings/Supermarine-Spitfire

it is very detailed about what changed, when and why.

If you are colour blind to some extent, then  it would be worth noting down the names of the colours used on what parts.

11 minutes ago, Ngantek said:

Same colour as the spinner (and underside) on that nice early mark seafire photo.

The spinner on the Seafire is Sky, the undercowl is Sky Blue.   

6 hours ago, PlasticUtopia said:

Marvellous reference pictures you posted

I did link the gallery before.  As I have said before, study photos, not models.  

I really cannot stress this enough if you are interested in accuracy,   I still spot new details on photos I am familiar with.  I post the reference images as I know where to find them, and what I wish to illustrate,   also, note that you  do not need to do masses of weathering or washes,  just enough to add some subtle variation, make it look less model like.

 

period colour is often very helpful, often because it was rare, it's usually done professionals and is very high quality, plus  you can see subtle colour variations,  if not colour blind,

 

Though according to the X-Rite test

https://www.xrite.com/hue-test

"The X-Rite Color Challenge and Hue Test

Are you among the 1 in 255 women and 1 in 12 men who have some form of color vision deficiency? "

 

So it's not unusual.  The linked test used to be harder, with 20 squares a strip.   

When it was like that I took me 3 goes, the last a decent monitor when not tired to score 0.

 

Model coming along well.

 

Cheers

T

 

 

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23 hours ago, Ngantek said:

although I doubt it will survive the next layer..

LOL, yes it never survived a bit. As you said, maybe too heavy on the paint. Thin layers is the way.

 

Thanks for the positive remarks, it is always uplifting.

23 hours ago, Ngantek said:

I've been building a beaufighter

Bristol Beaufighter was a great plan. My pals when I was a child used to rant about the airfix kit of it. At that time, I was not into building models its only recently I have fallen for it.

 

On 11/05/2022 at 13:12, Ngantek said:

Thanks to @Troy Smith for the latter, those photos are very useful, and I will be referring back to them.

The man has a plethora of advice and information that he readily shares. Amazing references of the proper way a plane should look like.

 

On 11/05/2022 at 13:12, Ngantek said:

It'll be nice to compare the p40s with what you've learned since the 1/72 one.

 

I gave it a dry fit yesterday. A lot of gaps and misfits. But for £3.50, I'll just potter with it in between builds

 

Thanks again

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Lovely to see the marvellous models and traders at the Scottish National Scale model show....

 

After my return on Sunday, I got back to the build....

 

Started by cutting the cam template out that tamiya provided (thank goodness as I might have not succeeded at this stage of doing it free hand) and placing on the build....

 

IMG_6655

 

I lacked photos here of the progress to the next stage which was spraying with XF 81. After I sprayed, I glossed it with 2 coats of Kleer and applied the decals (after market ones from Xtradecal)

 

I then gave it 2 coats of XF86 flat clear....

 

IMG_6687

 

I applied a little enamel panel wash to the underside. Im so nervous with this procedure as I nearly knackered my last build.

 

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So next thing will be placing on the last parts, a bit more weathering and finalising the Spity ready for final inspection...

 

IMG_6691

 

IMG_6686

 

thanks for looking

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Waa big progress. That feather on the camouflage joins has come out really well. Any issues removing the chipping masks?

 

What's your feeling on klear and xf86? I was planning on using both at some point on future builds as a comparison. 

 

Looking good, and nearly finished already!

 

Cheers, 

Andy

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On 4/4/2022 at 2:25 PM, Troy Smith said:

Tamiya do these colours., XF-81 DArk Green, XF 82 Ocean Grey ,XF 83 Medium Sea Grey and XF-21 sky, you can use XF-71 for interior green. 

I'm glad to see you confirm this, Troy, as these have been my go-to colours for this scheme for some time and I'm planning on adding this kit to my bench when I can get one for a good price.

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9 hours ago, Ngantek said:

Waa big progress. That feather on the camouflage joins has come out really well. Any issues removing the chipping masks?

 

Thanks Andy.

No issues taking off the Liquid mask....

 

IMG_6692

 

I have never used any other brand, but this one ticks all the boxes. It spreads evenly and dries reasonably quick. If you set about doing a cockpit mask, it will give you time to apply without going stringy.

 

Blue tack was used for the mask on the camo. fairley easy to apply but some times did loosen when placing down. Anther firm press down sorted that.

9 hours ago, Ngantek said:

What's your feeling on klear and xf86? I was planning on using both at some point on future builds as a comparison.

 

 

Again, my first time usiing kleer or in UK called multi surface polish...

 

IMG_6693

 

It did give off a high gloss and gave the application to applying the decals, a wonderful experience compared to my last build. Used it as it came out the bottle with no thinning. It never blocked up my .15 nozzle.

 

XF 86 is good in my experience, when sealing the decals. I used a 70/30 ratio for that and came out good

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Looking lovely! I also use XF86 as my 'go to' flat coat - it never fails! Great to see this moving towards a great finish,

 

Cheers,

 

Roger

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