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Tamiya 1/12 martini porsche 935

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I tell you mate its really bad, if I go upstairs (where I do my modeling) by the time I get up them I have to sit to get my breath back and wait for the coughing to die down, I can't even walk to the kitchen to make myself a cuppa without sitting to wait for the kettle to boil.

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Watch-out 1 - applying lacquer too quickly over bonnet decals.  Photo not great quality but you can see the whitening.  It was difficult to get the decal to conform properly to the bonnet scoop.




Watch-out 2 - the front air dam colour stripe.  I tried to paint Tamiya acrylic over lacquer and ended up with the acrylic 'beading'.  I don't know why it beaded.  Perhaps I had polished it already, I don't remember.  So I handpainted.  Looks OK but could be better.  This area was also quite tricky to mask.




Watch-out 3 - rear bumper, etc.  You can see some damage that the model sustained when it took its maiden flight off the shelf where it was stored (long story).   The fit of bumper to body and engine needs careful attention as it's not as foolproof as a modern Tamiya kit.




Watch-out 4 - adhesive choice.  Some of the suspension components end up taking quite some weight.  Tamiya extra thin just isn't strong enough.


Watch-out 5 - Martini side-stripe placement.  This needs to be thought-through carefully so that the different parts fit, and the curved sections need some work to get a fit fit.






Hope some of this helps.


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I got exactly the same issue with lacquer reacting with the decals on my 1:32 Matchbox Porsche 935 on the bonnet/scuttle air vent. 


And I can also sympathise with the suspension as it seems very delicate, which is probably more of an issue in 1:12 scale where the parts can be closer to prototype size but the model they have to support is a whole lot bigger.

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Is the lacquer actually affecting the decals (chemically) or is it that the decals split under the lacquer where the decal has bridged slightly across the varying surfaces. I find this happens with the decal setting when trying to conform to such concave curves, I am getting quite good at mixing up touch ups for various liveries 🤣

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One trick I have used many times...especially on the 312T...soak the decal in warm rather than cold water...but before you slide it off the backing...brush some MicroSol over it and let it sit for about 10 - 15 seconds...which helps a lot with flat area decals...but very much so for those meant for curves and depressions.



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OK so I've made a start, strangely for a Tamiya kit there are some horrid seams on the front end.


Nothing is glued in the front yet, I've masked the inside of the fuel tank and tried to replicate some fuel in there.

I won't be gluing the oil tank cage in until I've finished the tank (I remember that from the Vaillant build)


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Hi all added battery cables.


and starter motor cables.


I've got to say I'm super happy with the metal effects on this. The casings would be made of magnesium and I've worked up close and personal on hundreds of these and I don't think I could get more realistic results, I tried a different approach, normally I use ABT engine grease thinned down to a wash but I didn't want to disturb the mig steel colour I had used which I know white spirit based wash would so I tried a wash of vallejo engine grey over it. I'm loving the result, I can see me using this again.


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Did some work on the fuel pump, Tamiya would have you use plastic tube for the fuel lines whereas they are metal on the real thing.

Since I've used artistic licence already and depicted gold plated nuts and bolts I decided to depict gold plated fuel lines too.



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Looking good, kpnuts. It was just after this point that I struggled with the fit of the air pipes from the turbo. I wasn’t really sure why. So I’d suggest some cautious test fitting, including to the chassis and the rear bumper. 

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