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Bertie Builds a Boat - Lady Isabella - Scots 'Zulu' Herring Drifter - Finished ! ! !


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1 hour ago, Faraway said:

To get the results we aim for, both mediums require, in part, very different skill sets. 

 

Would you say more about those? I ask because I can't think of anything that isn't on close examination, just a matter of degree.

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15 hours ago, Bertie Psmith said:

 

Would you say more about those? I ask because I can't think of anything that isn't on close examination, just a matter of degree.

I’m struggling to actually explain my thoughts, so I think I’ll just watch your build unfold.

Jon

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No further progress at the moment. I've been busy with reading and watching videos about the next stages. 

 

I've also been putting a lot of time into my plastic M3 tank model which is, so far, a lot harder than the boat!

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I haven't spent a great deal of time physically working on the Zulu this week. Mentally though, I have been putting the hours in. I've studied a lot of build logs, here and elsewhere, of this model and others; I've read a good deal too and am beginning to get a faint grasp of the language known as Nauticalese. Initially I expected to have to look up every third word in my Oxford Companion to Ships and the Sea but I'm learning this new language in a more natural way by simply reading, even without much comprehension, and allowing my mind to make the connections and work out what things are by context. That way, most of the hard work happens while I sleep. There are some marvellous books on ships, sailing and the sea available for pennies from Abe Books and even Amazon and I can't resist a bargain.

 

Today I did get some building done. The weather is pleasant and my flat is currently very tidy so I took Isabella out to the 'garden' and faired the frames on the port side. I have no idea how long it took. It may have been an hour and a half or perhaps only 15 minutes. I was totally absorbed in the job and had no impression of time passing. I have a small electrical sander but elected not to use that today for two reasons. I didn't want to make use of the power tool's greatest strength - the ability to make serious mistakes very quickly. And I wanted to feel the boat taking shape with my fingers. I have astigmatic vision which means that I can't entirely trust my eyes when it comes to judging angles. However, I can trust my hands, supported of course with a flexible steel rule and a lot of squinting.

 

 

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I didn't take in-progress photographs but these were taken in raking light indoors once the job was done.

 

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The inner keel, that dark piece, is only dry fitted.

 

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Although there's not a plank in sight, the bevelled frames enable me to 'see' the curves of the hull much more clearly in the mind's eye.

 

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I'm coming to understand the three dimensional geometry of the first and second plankings to come. It's very exciting!

 

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Working in the open air was great fun. I don't really have a garden so I was more or less sitting on my stool on the pavement and people would amble past for a look and a word. Wooden boat models, apparently having much greater status than plastic ones, seemed to elicit an unusual level admiration from the general public which I rather enjoyed! 

 

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I stopped a few tenths of a millimeter short of perfection, relying on the gap filling properties of this excellent wood glue which has improved tremendously since I last worked with it at length.

 

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I used 120 grit aluminium oxide paper which Wilco stores call 'Fine'. It seemed vert coarse to my touch, being used to starting on plastic with nothing rougher than 240, more usually 600. I soon realised that I should have bought some of the medium and the coarse sheets too. For a sanding block, I wrapped the paper around a rubber eraser which was flexible and just large enough to follow the curves across three frames at once while being small enough that I could concentrate on one area at a time.

 

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I made use of a cheap warding file (bigger than a rat-tail and smaller than an engineer's file) to speed things up in some areas where my framing had been a little careless.

 

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A springy steel rule was my gauge to endure that the bevels on each frame lined up. (A plank was too difficult for me to see.)

 

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The last item in my tool box was a toothbrush with which I gently scrub my sandpaper when it begins to clog. This way I get twice the use from each piece and don't discard them until the abrasive has truly worn out rather than simply becoming buried in dust.

 

And that's it for today. I only dealt with one side and came indoors when the skies clouded over and the temperature dropped. There's no need to rush this, I keep telling myself. In fact there's a serious need not to rush it. 🙂

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46 minutes ago, Bertie Psmith said:

I didn't want to make use of the power tool's greatest strength - the ability to make serious mistakes very quickly. And I wanted to feel the boat taking shape with my fingers.

Gidday Bertie, you have a way with words. I've never heard of a power tool described as such.

 

But I agree with you in a number of factors. She's taking shape very nicely, and there being no need to rush this. Regards, Jeff.

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The chatter about boatbuilding spilled over into my Tank build log for some strange reason so I'm bringing my comments over here for tidyness

 

 

 

 

@Faraway and I were just getting started on a discussion about the differences between wood and plastic modelling. It's surprisingly difficult to put my thoughts into words on the question. It's complicated. So far I've identified three areas for discussion.

 

There's the social acceptability aspect - wood definitely holds the outsider's interest longer than plastic. Mention plastic kit modelling and you get "Oh you mean like Airfix kits" and a swift change of subject Tell them you make wooden models of old sailing ships and it's more like "Oh like those galleons I've seen in museums? Wow! That's amazing dude!" They miss that vital word - KIT. My boat is still a box of components with instructions. All the hard parts have been done for me. There is NO comparison with the 18/19 century models build exactly like the real thing and without MDF frameworks!

 

Then there's the realism question. Using wood on a small scale model to simulate wood is bonkers from that point of view. It has grain holes that you could fall down and patterns that would have to come from trees then thousand feet tall. Same with the rigging ropes. Everything is bizarrely overscale. But it doesn't matter because the wood ships aren't meant to be realistic. For proof of that look at the way they are displayed on turned brass columns, or consider the almost total absence of weathering used in the wood genre. Of course there are still rivet counters or 'knot-watchers' over there and of course, I don't care because I just want to make something that I think is beautiful as opposed to realistic.

 

Finally, the skill set issue. I believe that there is no difference in the skills required to build models in plastic, wood, resin, brass or custard. The skills or perhaps abilities I have in mind are things like hand-eye coordination. You can't be too clumsy in any material before the result begins to look rubbish. You are also going to need  some problem solving abilities because the kit makers never think of everything. You have to be able to learn new techniques which I don't see as skills but just ways to use skills. For example, annealing your PE. That's not a skill, it's a technique you use to solve the problem of stiff metal, and you use the technique carefully using your hands and your eyes. You need organisational abilities, patience, resilience, maybe imagination if you want your particular kit to look different to most of the others. There are many more of these skills/abilities of course, and I'm not doing all of the work listing them.  However, I've seen nothing in wooden ships that doesn't have an analogue in plastic, resin, metal or yes, custard. Though now I consider it more deeply, it's very difficult sanding down the defects in a bowl of custard.

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In response to some questions put by @Cerberus I said:

 

That's well put. The imperfections of wood make it accessible. That would also explain why some folk prefer an Airfix Vintage Classic to a brand new Tamiya. Actually, I was rather intimidated by the Tamiya Phantom and had to build it as a wreck because I knew I wouldn't be able to do it "perfick"

 

My boat has a laser etched wooden deck and though that has advantages for me as a beginner, it looks incongruous because it's so very obviously created perfectly by machine. The totally accurate geometry overwhelms the woodiness of the material, contrasts with it too much maybe. I'm going to have to do something about that bit, maybe sand off the engraving and re do it in  pencil?

 

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42 minutes ago, Bertie Psmith said:

The totally accurate geometry overwhelms the woodiness of the material, contrasts with...

 

It's going to contrast with my imprecise human building of the rest of the boat! That's going to be the problem with the deck.

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48 minutes ago, Bertie Psmith said:

My boat has a laser etched wooden deck and though that has advantages for me as a beginner, it looks awful because it's so very obviously created perfectly by machine. The totally accurate geometry overwhelms the woodiness of the material, contrasts with it too much maybe. I'm going to have to do something about that bit, maybe sand off the engraving and re do it in  pencil?

  That is a good example of what I was trying to say yes, I just went back to the build log to have a look at the decking, and to be honest, to my eye I wouldn't say it looks awful, but yes it does have that precise, maybe too precise 'done by machine' look to it, but having said that, again to my eye it just looks like the shadows around the nails in the planking is too big, too large in circumference, and too regular, which is making it look a little harsh, plus it maybe needs a few more plank joints?

 

 I'm willing to bet that if you just toned down the shadows around all those nails (I'm assuming that they are nails) then you would like the decking quite a lot more than you do now, and might even be happy with it as it is, how you would go about toning down all those nail shadows is another matter though, but if you are not happy with the decking then I say have a go at redoing it yes, maybe re-scribing with a pencil would work yes, it would be very much trial and error though.

 

 In my way of thinking, the trick is that when you yourself are unhappy with something, then have a go at changing it, because you can't make things any worse, however, problems can arise when you are only unsure about something, because buried deep within unsure is a certain amount of satisfaction, and therefore you can make things worse.

 

 Matt

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13 hours ago, Cerberus said:

  That is a good example of what I was trying to say yes, I just went back to the build log to have a look at the decking, and to be honest, to my eye I wouldn't say it looks awful, but yes it does have that precise, maybe too precise 'done by machine' look to it, but having said that, again to my eye it just looks like the shadows around the nails in the planking is too big, too large in circumference, and too regular, which is making it look a little harsh, plus it maybe needs a few more plank joints?

 

 I'm willing to bet that if you just toned down the shadows around all those nails (I'm assuming that they are nails) then you would like the decking quite a lot more than you do now, and might even be happy with it as it is, how you would go about toning down all those nail shadows is another matter though, but if you are not happy with the decking then I say have a go at redoing it yes, maybe re-scribing with a pencil would work yes, it would be very much trial and error though.

 

 In my way of thinking, the trick is that when you yourself are unhappy with something, then have a go at changing it, because you can't make things any worse, however, problems can arise when you are only unsure about something, because buried deep within unsure is a certain amount of satisfaction, and therefore you can make things worse.

 

 Matt

 

Thanks Matt.

 

YES! It's the nails that are causing me the heartache. I guess there's a problem with just having the laser make a dot so they make a 'shadow' circle instead. the result is that the nails are as prominent as the caulked joints between the plank edges and ends. (Also, if they are shadows, they won't go all the way round.)

 

So I sanded down the deck to reduce all of the etching.

 

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Sanded side on the left. As well as toning down the etching, this has also reduced the grain figure by removing the oxidised or light bleached surface and removed those laser scorch marks which flare out in a few places.

 

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Then I pencilled in the caulked lines and left the nails as they were. I certainly introduced some human error into the thing!

 

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I like this better and when the varnish goes on I think I'll like it even more. Note the odd wandering pencil marks. This is where the deck planks have split and then been sealed with caulking. 😉

 

 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~#

 

"Awful" was too strong a word to apply to the deck etching, sorry @chris1966, incongruous would be a better one.

 

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3 hours ago, Bertie Psmith said:

a discussion about the differences between wood and plastic modelling. It's surprisingly difficult to put my thoughts into words on the question. It's complicated.

 

An interesting discussion and it certainly is complicated.

 

An observation I have made is that anything "plastic model" is regarded by many are toy things something that young children build and then play with. A model ship made from wood is something an adult makes and then puts on their pride and joy on display in the study and it doesn't have to be a wooden ship - it could be a a civil war cannon or gatling gun machined from brass with a wood carriage or similar.

 

Plastic is for toys, wood and metal are for more serious work regardless of scale fidelity or the amount of work invested.

 

cheers, Graham 

 

 

 

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6 minutes ago, ColonelKrypton said:

 

An interesting discussion and it certainly is complicated.

 

An observation I have made is that anything "plastic model" is regarded by many are toy things something that young children build and then play with. A model ship made from wood is something an adult makes and then puts on their pride and joy on display in the study and it doesn't have to be a wooden ship - it could be a a civil war cannon or gatling gun machined from brass with a wood carriage or similar.

 

Plastic is for toys, wood and metal are for more serious work regardless of scale fidelity or the amount of work invested.

 

cheers, Graham 

 

 

 


Cheers Graham. Cheers for stating the obvious thing that I have been missing.
 

Of course, kids start on plastic and the general public don’t notice that 3% of the kids continue to make adult plastic models throughout their lives, maybe because we don’t tend to mention it in the pub for fear of ridicule. 
 

Wooden galleons are something that people start on much later in life, probably after a lot of plastic adventures that go unnoticed. 

 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 

I read today that the oldest known ship model is 4500 years old. Grave goods of some king or other. 
 

 

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I ordered a paper model of a ship today. I intend to use it as a template/plans to make a more substantial (and probably less accurate 😆) model from wood and possibly plasticard. 
 

Is that scratchbuilding or am I modifying a kit? A minor point but one that is nagging at me. 

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2 minutes ago, Bertie Psmith said:

Is that scratchbuilding or am I modifying a kit?

 

I would say scratch building - the paper model and it's templates are just your plans. You have just skipped the step from the drawn plans to plotting and making templates before you start cutting wood,  plastic or custard.

 

cheers, Graham

 

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4 hours ago, Bertie Psmith said:

I like this better and when the varnish goes on I think I'll like it even more.

 I like it much better as well, It's lost some of that harshness, and yes, when the varnish goes on I think it will look even better, hopefully the varnish will blend in the shadows slightly (experiment with different varnishes ;))

 

 

2 hours ago, Bertie Psmith said:

Is that scratch building or am I modifying a kit? A minor point but one that is nagging at me. 

 I would also say that it is scratch building, you are using the paper model as plans, not really any different to a scratcher using plans/drawings, or a ciggie packet with dimensions written on it.

 

 Matt  

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6 hours ago, Cerberus said:

 I like it much better as well, It's lost some of that harshness, and yes, when the varnish goes on I think it will look even better, hopefully the varnish will blend in the shadows slightly (experiment with different varnishes ;))

 

I have some scrap pieces from the holes in the deck which I will experiment with. First up is Tamiya clear with lacquer thinner and a drop of clear brown. Maybe if I match the hue of the nail shadows they will almost disappear. 

 

 

6 hours ago, Cerberus said:

 

 I would also say that it is scratch building, you are using the paper model as plans, not really any different to a scratcher using plans/drawings, or a ciggie packet with dimensions written on it.

 

 Matt  

 

I suppose so. It will be an interesting exercise. I bought it on such an impulse that I don’t even know the scale. 


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194549930418?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D237855%26meid%3D7f1f00be179741f6b12a0425b82f4197%26pid%3D101439%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D194972165319%26itm%3D194549930418%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DDefaultOrganicWeb&_trksid=p2332490.c101439.m3021

 

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I have carried out an experiment with the scrap piece of decking from the mast mounting - just to be safe. 🙂 I sanded it smooth and then pencilled in some caulk lines quickly using a ruler. They are approximately the same width as the deck but ironically, the ruled lined looked too straight to my eye!

 

Next step was to check compatibilities between Tamiya Clear Gloss, thinned with their lacquer thinner, and my Daler Rowney Acrylic Inks. I didn't anticipate problems but Tamiya is sometimes surprising.

 

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That went well so I thinned the varnish and painted a plank. It bled a little so I thickened the mixture again and painted another plank. This time no problems so I continued painting planks, varying the intensity of the burnt umber ink for each one. I wasn't subtle with it for this trial and on the deck I would be a lot more careful to keep the planks close enough to look like the same type of wood but different enough so that they don't look like the same piece of wood. Then for fun, I added a spot of red earth ink and changed the hue as well as the shade. The difference is pleasing to my eye but I think needs to be used very sparingly. I might use this on the framing around fittings or perhaps the deck edge?

 

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Some of my plank ends have collected more colour than the middles. This was partly down to my hurried painting and shouldn't be a problem if I take my time. I will add a drop of retarder to the mix when I paint the deck, which will eliminate the irregularities caused by the varnish drying so quickly.

 

I'll paint a few dozen planks in a shade, vary the intensity a little and paint a  second batch and a third and so on until about half of the planks are treated. Then with a broad brush, I'll paint the whole deck with a pale shade to unify the whole while still maintaining the differentiation of the 'individual pieces'. IF I get it right, I think it will be worth the effort and if not, I'll have learned something. (Then I'll paint the deck brown! 😄)

 

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Yes of course, I fear that he is right though, and even worse, in the dark recesses of my soul I might even believe it myself 😀

Cracking job there Bertie by the way, Im quietly building a wooden Xebec alongside my Aircraft Carrier at the moment, its very good for the head I find !!

 

Cheers

 

David

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I'm very pleased with progress today. I faired the starboard side of the bulkheads and patterns and in a surprisingly short time. This was, in part, due to having coarser sandpaper than yesterday. The new 120 grit paper cut twice as fast as the old 180 which was a good thing tonight but could have caused problems last time when I was feeling my way more cautiously. Today I knew all the places where material had to come off and I had an easily checkable gauge in the port side of the boat. I will keep this routine throughout the shaping parts of this and other boats. Do one side completely, slowly and carefully, and then bring the other side smartly into line.

 

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I checked for symmetry by sighting one-eyed down the keel and pitching the boat fore and aft. A dark background helped.

 

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The weather is bad here today so I had to work indoors in my small, mostly open plan apartment. I didn't relish the dusting that sanding MDF would entail so I used my airbrush spray booth, set low down at the height I would hold the boat, as a dust extractor. It worked perfectly. I barely caught a whiff of the distinctive smell of MDF dust and when I'd finished and blown the dust from both the the boat and the booth with my airbrush, my glasses and all surfaces around me were dust free. Well OK, they were only as dusty as they were when I started. I am a man. I don't dust daily, I dust weakly. 😄

 

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The keel and rudder post went on with no drama using those good old clamps - rubber bands.

 

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It's not exactly a dramatic issue but I am beginning to find small errors in the instructions. It's something to be aware of if you are a beginner like me. I've decided to place my trust in the images whenever they conflict with the captions and text. For example:

 

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That second sentence is a corker. Gun port patterns. I wonder if this was a cut and paste from a naval ship instruction book that slipped by the proofraeder.

 

I've not done the first rough planking so I'm not at that point yet but I thought I'd mention it now to give some helpful person a chance to either correct or confirm my reading of the photographs of the second planking. I think I'm advised to start planking from the gunwales downwards and from the keel upwards and meet somewhere in the middle (but preferably below the waterline in the red painted area). This question is really directed at the experienced builders on the other forum by the way.

 

The planking approaches! It's a part of the build that I'm really looking forward to. 😃

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Berti the sail material may be offcuts of sail cloth. However it may be good old calico. Calico is available from good material shops, you can get both bleached and unbleached. It takes dyes well  too

 

All the best steve

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Before I can get on with the proper planking, the bulwark patterns have to be attached to the hull. The instructions helpfully suggest soaking these 1mm thick 22mm wide strips in water for a while. I tried them dry first, just to learn what the difference felt like.

 

Before soaking, lining up the patterns was like juggling with melting jello! They sprang out of alignment instantly. After a half hour or so in warm water with a drop of dish soap to make it wetter, the patterns put up their hands and cooperated fully. The friction coefficient of the surface of the watered boards became much greater which meant that they tended to stay where they were put instead of sliding around while I was trying to clamp them in place. The job became easy. The patterns aren't glued down yet, so far they have only been clamped in place wet. They will be allowed to dry in position in order that they can take up the curve of the hull. Once dry (tonight?) gluing them in place should be fairly simple. We shall see.

 

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You can never have enough clamps?

 

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The patterns will be the inner face of the bulwarks and are etched with alignment markings for the timber heads (the tops of the many frames which made up the real boat). There's a double line which will be where the deck goes. I nearly lined up the topmost line on the under deck at first before I grasped the significance of the doubled line and raised it a mm or so. The fit around the deck is just about perfect.

 

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However, the laws of 'geometry on a curved surface' won't bow down to our wishes and the flat pattern will not fully take up the compound curve of the stern. It's sprung outwards by about the thickness of the pattern so I'm a little concerned that to avoid a bulge here by sanding alone would result in going right through the pattern right where I want it secured to that frame.

 

I've considered some options. My first thought was to saw a dart in the pattern, wet the area and bend the edges together with heat from a soldering iron. My second was to slip a shim from the pearwood scrap behind the pattern at that point so that I can sand through the top layer with impunity. The dart plan is elegant but difficult while the shim plan is crude but easy. Being a crude and easy kind of person, I believe I will be shimming and sanding.

 

I'm hoping that fixing that gap will enable me to avoid the 'clinker built' appearance at the stern which is mentioned in the manual and which I have seen on other builds. I'd rather fuss around a little at this stage than have a lot of sanding to do later. The planks will also have a tendency to spring away from the frames around this area but being narrower, I'm hoping to be able to bend and fettle and bully them into position.

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Hello Bertie,

 

Late as usual, but thoroughly enjoying your first attempt at maritime modelling.

 

Strangely enough I've been considering having a go at it myself, becoming a  bit bored with cockpits, wheel wells, camouflage and the like and keen to have a crack at something like this.

Something similar to the craft you are building might be suitable especially as I qualify as a beginner [of boats] and no more than an intermediate modeller of other subjects. Added to that, who could fail to be impressed with such a pretty craft !

 

So I 'll have a look at Chris' website and check out something suitable, at the same time cheering your progress and sympathising with your struggles.

Your thread is providing much inspiration ! Onward 'n' upward !

Roger the Cabin Boy

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