Hairy Stickler Posted March 26, 2022 Share Posted March 26, 2022 Having been back in the modelling game for a while now, I am considering incorporating some photo-etched parts in some of my up and coming builds (I focus on 1/72 fighter aircraft). What are the basic tools that I'm going to need to do this (I don't want to spend a packet) and are there PE elements that I shouldn't bother with in 1/72?. Any advice, tips or warnings gratefully received. Many thanks in advance Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozothenutter Posted March 26, 2022 Share Posted March 26, 2022 A folding tool is nice, but can be expensive. High quality pliers with parallel beaks are good. If you have a grinding wheel or angle grinder get straight ones, and grind a taper on one side. Or just get a straight one and a tapered one. Be picky about the amount of play between the two elements. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drake122 Posted March 26, 2022 Share Posted March 26, 2022 Honestly, all you need is some sharp hobby knife, a hard enough surface to cut on, some tape to prevent cut piece from flying away, a file/sander to trim the pieces and quality tweezers to bend them, and superglue of course. No need to buy those expensive bending tools or PE scissors, etc... unless you are doing a 1:700 scale ship model that has more PE railing parts than plastic parts.🤣 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fightersweep Posted March 26, 2022 Share Posted March 26, 2022 I'd certainly echo the above. I picked up a mini folding tool myself quite cheaply. May not be as versatile as the expensive versions, but it does come in really, really handy sometimes. I'm no expert with PE though, and I'm still struggling myself to find a glue that actually sticks PE to where you want it to go. The PE part will stick to anything, fingers, workbench, the tools I'm using, anywhere except for where I want it to go on the kit. I've tried various super glues, and even the white glues, and still find the process frustrating. Might be just Eduard stuff as someone once said to me that Eduard PE will refuse to stick to anything. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Stickler Posted March 26, 2022 Author Share Posted March 26, 2022 (edited) Thanks very much everyone. Some great comments/advice (as I would have expected). I completely agree that there is no point in wrestling with microscopic parts that disappear from view as soon as the fuselage goes together. Perhaps I might be better splashing the cash on some resin parts (pucker wheels for that Hellcat or more detailed cannons for that Hurricane) or aftermarket decals (which will certainly be on show). Once again, thanks to everyone who's taken the time to respond. Edited March 26, 2022 by Hairy Stickler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Harmsworth Posted March 26, 2022 Share Posted March 26, 2022 You could post that question here: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/forum/85-modelling-tips/ But to give some further thoughts: - blu-tac stuck on the end of a cocktail stick is great for picking up and placing small bits (like p.e.) - reduces the risk of the small things flying across the room never to be seen again (except when you're not looking for them) - a kitchen/bathroom ceramic tile for cutting p.e. on - a set of small files for getting rid of the sharp edges on p.e. Mark 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Stickler Posted March 26, 2022 Author Share Posted March 26, 2022 I'm glad I'm not the only person who loses small parts! I'm currently building the Tamiya 1/72 A6m3/3a Zero and fought for ages to get two tiny parts in place on the top of the wings (I think they are aileron actuators). Half way through painting the black green upper surfaces, I realised one was gone and I never found it (despite a CSI-style search). Now, the poor old Zero doesn't have any! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishplanebeer Posted March 26, 2022 Share Posted March 26, 2022 This post is now under Tools & Tips / Other Tools as well so you may find some of the advice repeated but worth checking both. Regards Colin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pigpen Posted March 26, 2022 Share Posted March 26, 2022 All of the above plus for every PE part you use ask the question "does this actually improve the model or would I be better using the kit part or scratching something?". I'm convinced many PE parts exist simply to fill the parts count / fret and are not of actual benefit!5 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julien Posted March 27, 2022 Share Posted March 27, 2022 Good question and answers but not really a WWII topic, I have moved this to tools & tips You will probably find on the forum you get the best help posting in the correct area, take some time, look around and you will see we have an area for just about everything. Julien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhaselden Posted March 27, 2022 Share Posted March 27, 2022 Many moons ago, when PE first became a "thing", I recall modellers discussing the need to "anneal" the parts over a gas burner. Is that still needed/recommended? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stef N. Posted March 27, 2022 Share Posted March 27, 2022 3 hours ago, mhaselden said: Many moons ago, when PE first became a "thing", I recall modellers discussing the need to "anneal" the parts over a gas burner. Is that still needed/recommended? I received this advice recently and it works brilliantly if you want battered and bent fenders, mudguards, bins etc on AFVs. Not really necessary on most etched but it does help soften up some of the larger parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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